Ok, I'm still in the process of planning for my overseas assignment (non military) in Dubai. Now besides all the stuff I have to store in a storage (clothes, paperwork, certain furniture) or maybe a friends place, is it wise to store your vehicle? I just bought a my TL 6 months ago no loan or payments on it. I like it, yet I am uncertain if I should sell it before my trip which will probably take one year or store it in storage. If I store it I'm not sure if there are problems that can come up when I'm back. I also think I'll be in pretty bad shape if someone breaks into the storage and steals my car.
If I sell it I will definitely loose money on it now and either buy a used one when I get back again or re-purchase another new one. If I keep it and store it I wont obviously be driving it for an entire year so the milage stays low if I sell it 5 years or so down the road might be better resale value.
Anybody been in this position before and what decision did you make and why.
Thanks.

 

since u bought it and like it keep it....whats better than comin back to a sweeeet car?

 

If you sell it now you would loose more money then you were to sell it after a few yrs of use.

That's how I personally see it.

 

IMHO, don't sell it. Why take the loss? Peopls store cars all the time. You just need to find some one who knows about such things.

Similar situation here:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160221


In Storage:

https://acurazine.com/forums/technology-16/anybody-have-v620-yet-164112/


More info:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=Storing
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=Storing

http://www.buyclassiccars.com/storagetips.asp


GL.

Dubai could be a pretty cool assignment. Maybe a little pricey for the non-jet setters though.

 

I was in the same predicament in 04. Had my TL for exactly 12 months and was looking at storage for another 12 or so. I ended up storing it with no ill effects other than a dead battery and some square tires upon my return. The battery took a charge and is still in the car today, the crap Bridgstone (square to begin with) tires were replaced with PS2's..

Now, I however actually placed an add in the paper and was willing to sell if the right price was achieved. I had very little time thus selling did not transpire.

With low miles you should be able to get a good price selling private party. Sure you will loose a few $K, but depreciation now is depreciation later. Cost for me to store mine was $1200+ for the year in a good/safe location. Subtract the storage fees from your depreciation and the numbers aren't really concerning unless you give the car away. Selling early/low mileage will always get you more money-thats a no brainer. Depreciation now will be less than later, the difference is the overall "cost of ownership" ratio might be better if sold at the 3+ year point (but rarely now days).

Bottom line, much can change in a year , and depending, keeping the car can be either a benefit or burden. I myself (if doing it again) would once again set a firm "sale" price and attempt to sell the car. If it sells in time and within price, great. If it doesn't, store it.

In my case it all worked out and I still happily drive the same 04TL..


Best of luck overseas!!

 

Ship it to me, I will drive it for you dailey. j/k

 

lol good one sc

 

Looks like Bearcast set you up with a good amount of resources. But, check your owners manual, it has some tips for storage...Ah, what the heck, I looked it up on Owner Link for you

Here ya go....I think one of the more important steps is the "Preparing your vehicle" section about half way down - this addresses some of your maintenance / probem possibilities questions.

Choosing a storage location

You'll need a place that is dry, out of the weather and out of the way.

Remember that once you've prepped the , you don't want to move it any more than you have to. Also keep in mind that you may need to check it periodically, so don't "bury" it in the back of the garage under a pile of storage cartons and lawn furniture.

If at all possible, choose a location away from windows. The ultraviolet rays from sunlight can fade paint and plastic parts. Open sunlight can raise the ambient temperature of the storage area, so it's a good idea to cover plain glass windows with some sort of opaque material.

Protective covers
Wherever you store your Honda for the winter, it's a good idea to cover it with a specially designed cover. There are several reasons for using a special cover as opposed to an old sheet or tarp:
A tarp is designed to prevent moisture from getting from one place to another; this means although moisture can't get in, it can't get out either. Moisture trapped under the tarp will condense on your as the temperature drops, which can lead to rust.
Plain cotton sheeting doesn't trap moisture like the tarp does, but it can absorb moisture and hold it against metal surfaces, causing rust. Also, damp fabric is a great breeding place for mildew, which can damage materials like seat covers.
Your Honda dealer offers a complete line of Hondaline® covers and is sure to have one to fit your machine. These special covers are made from a mildew-resistant material, and are vented to allow moisture to escape before it can cause rust.

Preparing your vehicle
Following are the basic steps you'll need to take to prep your Honda for storage. Refer to your Owner's Manual or ask your dealer for detailed step-by-step instructions.
Drain the oil and add fresh oil.
Prepare the fuel tank and drain the carburetor(s).
Lubricate the cylinders
Remove the battery and store it where it can be charged at least every two weeks.
Service the hydraulic brake and clutch systems.
Service the cooling system.
Clean, dry, and polish all surfaces.

Now you're ready to cover it up and wait for spring thaw!

Bringing it back
When the weather turns back from lion to lamb, it can mean only one thing - it's spring, and time for a ride on your Honda! If you've faithfully followed our guidelines, you're practically there already.

After you pull off the cover, there are a few things that you should check before you go for your first ride of the season:
Check the tires for cracks or splits on the sidewalls. Normal "weather checking" shouldn't be a concern, but if you see large cracks or splits, see your Honda dealer about replacement tires. If the tires look OK, make sure the air pressure is at the recommended level (see your Owner's Manual).
Check metal parts for possible rust, and remove it with Pro Honda Spray Cleaner and Polish.
Check the drive chain and lube it (if applicable) with Pro Honda Chain Lube
Check final drive oil level (if applicable) and add Pro Honda Shaft Drive Oil if needed. See your Owner's Manual for instructions.
Check and fill coolant (if applicable).
Install and secure the battery. Coat the terminals with a little clean grease to protect the terminals from corrosion.
Give the a good cleaning from head to toe.
Then just perform your standard pre-ride check (see your Owner's Manual), and you're ready to ride!

Alternatives to doing it yourself
You've read through the storage tips, but maybe you're not the do-it-yourself type. Maybe you're thinking it looks like an awful lot of work, or you just don't have the time. Don't despair - there's always an easier way.

Ask your local Honda dealer if he offers a winter storage service. This is an ideal setup if you want to save time and avoid the hassle of doing it yourself. If your dealer doesn't offer this service, he probably knows someone who does.

Subscribing to a winter storage service usually means taking your to the dealer (some dealers will even pick it up). They will prep and store it. All you have to do is give them a call next spring and they'll have it ready for pickup (or deliver it to your door, as the case may be).

 

Talk to your insurance agent- you can keep COMP and theft on the car at good rate when its stored
Buy a couple cans of seafoam- some in the tank will keep the gas from gelling
and run it thru the intake vac line until smoke comes out the tailpipes.
You have just protected the internals from corrosion and moisture

Stop engine- write down radio and nav codes and store in 3 places -
disconnect battery NEG cable
Put on jackstands and remove wheels or lower tire pressure and expect to replace tires on return. YOu dont want the weigth of wheels hanging on the suspension all that time

Put her somewhere safe and inside a locked building, that way if it disappears- you tried, but it was stolen-- pay me now please mr insurance company

 

If you have the time right now, sell it & get a new one when you get back ... 4G is right around the corner .. LOL ...

Too much trouble to store it at a safe place & keep the car in great condition ... unless your friend can park it in their garage & drive it once in a while for you ...

 

Thanks. I was just offered by a good friend of mine that she would take it and drive it. She would insure it too. I'm not sure if that's a good idea, she has no wrecks on her record, is married and they have a house, yet they would keep the car in the driveway, I always have a garage. Would you consider "loaning" it to a friend while gone rather then store it. Her husband says the car will be ruined if I store it for one year, all the seals will dry out and I have lots of problems afterward.
KJSmitty says his car was fine. So what is the real deal about seals drying up?

 

Oh btw I will be leaving by the end of February, so my planning is in full swing.

 

If you store it, be sure you put some rat poison in the room. Rodents like to chew on Acura wiring, something about the insulation being wheat-based.

 

Obviously, we don't know your friends etc. but I would never do this with a car (or anything that was worth something to me). This is how friends turn into "non-friends."
As for the "it will be ruined" comment, absolutely not the case at all. The military has huge warehouses in several key locations in the US full of vehicles being "stored" for folks - some for durations up to 3 years. Bottom line, it's done all the time. There's vehicles that will sit on dealership lots for near that amount of time. I also own a boat which can sit in storage for up to 8 months at a time without "seal" issues.

Big picture, your TL will still be under warranty when you pull it out of storage. If anything goes wrong in result of "storage", it will happen in a short period of time after removing it from storage. The only thing I would do different (than when/how I stored mine), is to slightly elevate (jack-up the car and place on blocks or jacks) in order to remove the overall weight off the springs/suspension and tires. I would also have disconnected the battery. The only reason I did not do either is I figured there might be a time when my wife would need to drive the TL etc. during my time away. She didn't but she did start it once in the first 6 months. Anyway, my battery was dead - though not ruined, and my tires had a flat spot yet they did from the factory as well... that's it. I have been driving it daily for the last 2 yrs (pulled out of storage Dec 2, 2005) and have put over 24K miles since. ABSOLUTELY "NO" issues with the car what-so-ever. Doesn't leak, burn "any" oil, or have issues with the suspension - and I'm still running the OEM battery...

Seriously, here is all that I did:

1. About a 3 days prior to storage I filled the gas tank and added the correct amount of fuel stabilizer. I also put about 4 times the needed amount of "Marvel Mystery Oil" (found at AutoZone etc) in the gas tank. The mystery oil helps lube the fuel system, upper engine parts like valves, cylinder walls, piston and rings. I perform this on my boat every season prior to storage as well. Just ensure you drive the car for a few days on that tank of gas to get everything flowing well etc.. Don't worry about the tank being "exactly" full when stored.

2. I had changed my oil in the month prior but if I hadn't I would have changed it just prior to storage. Bottom line however, cleaner oil is probably better. (Some mention acids can form in the oil and attack engine bearings/surfaces. I have torn down engines that were sitting in barns/fields for 5+ yrs with the nastiest of oil, and have not seen any "acid" effects).

3. Washed / waxed exterior "well", and cleaned the interior and applied leather conditioner. I also liberally put silicone spray on "all" of the weatherstrip (entire car). Something like 303 would work just as well but either way you want the weatherstrip to stay soft and not "stick" to the car.

4. As nfnsquared mentioned above, I ensured my storage area was clean and we (me and storage management) placed numerous bait, traps etc. to hopefully foil any "intruders" looking for tasty TL wiring or worse. My wife placed even more new bait at about the 6 month point.

5. Pulled TL into storage, turned her off, said good by, and then secured the storage area.

Literally 12 months later, had the wife bring the tools I requested to the airport when she picked me up. Drove straight to the storage facility and pulled the battery and took it home for an overnight trickle charge. Took it back over the next day to Autozone who then tested and said the battery was fine. Went across the street to where my TL was stored, installed the battery, TL started up on about the 3rd rotation of crank, let it idle as I said thanks to the storage management, and then drove her home nicely.


If I were you and I knew the car did not need to be driven,,, place on jacks securely while in storage (so it can't be driven). Then just have your good friend start and idle the TL every/every-other month etc. while your gone.

I could have very easily left my TL in our own garage/driveway. I just knew not only would I have been a little anal about its care, but it was just a burden/concern that my wife didn't have to deal with given my absence - she had enough on her plate. Plus it was completely out of the way so the kids could practice basketball or ride bikes/play in the garage at will etc..

Truly Hexkraut,
Best of luck/Godspeed and safety on your time away, and Happy Holidays!!

 

Don't listen to her husband because he obviously does not know squat about cars or he is trying to find a way to end up with a TL in the driveway. There is no problem storing the car for a year as long as you prepare the car for storage as others have suggested. If you were storing it for 15 years things might be different.

 

A 10X20 box should work right? Publicstorage in my area for that size box is $130. Does that sound about right?

 

10x20 is all that I had. Mine was $1260 if I remember right ($105/month). They gave me a month free however due to paying for the entire year upfront - $1155ish total.