Type S new rotors and pads question?
05-05-2009, 07:39 PM
#41
Burning Brakes
place the order anyway they should backorder it for u and u can at least have em for the price. the gold wears off after the first time u hit the brakes so i wouldnt worry about the color. I only got the front...the rears were ok so i didnt really need to invest into those. when i called to get somethings confirmed about which is better they said if u like continual stopping power slotted or standard brembo rotors are best. crossdrilled slotted n crossdrilled give it an aggressive look but not the stopping power u want if u hit the brakes a lot....like in the city with stop n go traffic as a bad example.... im sure u understand lol
05-05-2009, 09:21 PM
#42
I Have A Meth Lab In
SS lines are mostly for show. The rotors, pads, and calipers only care that they are getting fluid, not what color coat the fluid delivery guy is wearing. I don't know squat about ceramic pads, but for matellic/semi-metallic etc, as a rule of thunb, the higher the price the more metal content and the longer they will last. The caveat to this is that, the higher metal content in the pads, the more they eat into the rotor, hence it's a stupid idea to buy the hardest (priciest) pads, which are still cheaper than replacing your rotors after your awesome pads have eaten them up. I've replaced a lot of pads/rotors on different performance cars, and the biggest mistake I've seen people do is buy "the best" pads, "the best" rotors, and wonder why they have to replace the rotors so soon.
In addition, the moderator is right when he talks about simply "drilled" rotors vice cast ones; I've seen a few drilled rotors that were garbage, and plenty of pads that as well. Some people have told me they were "OEM" distributers, but on the web, an "OEM" distributor can be someone who makes OEM windshield wipers for GM, and sells rotors on the side for other makes as well, so be carefull on the OEM claims. <blank>Rack, for instance, has so many "OEM" brake parts. Hmmm, isn't there only 1 true OEM part? My case.
05-06-2009, 08:45 AM
#44
Higher metal content also means it'll eat up the rotor though, iirc.
Stainless steel lines are supposed to not flex when pressure is applied to the brake, which makes for a stiffer feeling pedal and ultimately better/faster stop...it's not just for show.
Stainless steel lines are supposed to not flex when pressure is applied to the brake, which makes for a stiffer feeling pedal and ultimately better/faster stop...it's not just for show.
05-06-2009, 09:02 AM
#45
Safety Car
Ive heard a lot of older hot rod guys laugh at that.....stainless steel lines is really more for show because the lines we use are already braided stainless steel or just braided steel, its in the rubbber so they dont flex a lot to begin with..... stainless steel braided on the outside is more for show on our cars and for a much much much more higher performance automobile. On any normal car no one will ever sit there and hit the brake pedal on a fully functional brake system all the way down to the ground you cant if u can.... 1. theres an issue with your brakes and 2 your rotors would be destroyed after one time of doing that
Last edited by Tripnbeats; 05-06-2009 at 09:04 AM.
05-06-2009, 09:26 AM
#46
Thanks for clarifying sir...
Just passing on what my understanding was. After what I wrote, I must say though...I've never found the need to change the stock ones either!
I think modding is the art of balancing a need to change something with leaving well enough alone.
Just passing on what my understanding was. After what I wrote, I must say though...I've never found the need to change the stock ones either!
I think modding is the art of balancing a need to change something with leaving well enough alone.
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