I need to the zine community to help me out here choosing between three type s.

All NBP(must have)
All 07

1) $23,000 w/ 42k miles AT
2) $23,900 w/ 54k miles MT!!!
3) $25,000 w/ 44k miles AT CPO

From what i've heard CPO's aren't anything special. But it sounds nice lol

Already test drove #2, and going to see #1 tomorrow

All comments welcome, Thanks

 

The CPO warranty is a nice thing to have. Just don't count on a CPO car being a better bet than a non-CPO car.

Can't say if the prices are good or not; I don't shop them or follow them.

If you're up for a manual, get the MT. By all accounts is the sportiest TL ever (errr, well, at least up to the 4G MT and maybe even more fun than that).

As far as the AT's, the question is, "Is the CPO warranty worth $2,000?" Keep in mind that depending when they went in service there may be a little of the 4yr/50k mile warranty left and for sure the 6yr/70k mile drivetrain warranty is still in place. The mileage difference is negligible.




ymmv

 

54k is a little high IMO but I think since it's a MT it's worth it!!

23k for a type S is a good price, the ones in my area are going for 26-28k..

 

I say the MT

 

Lots of fun will be had in the MT. The monotonous automatic transmission will make the TL comparable to the likes of a Camry.

 

6 speed FTMW! More rare as well!

 

Manual if you want it otherwise CPO as those automatically come with a 7/100K warranty extension (from in in service date)

 

Just got mine tonight WDP TL-S manual and I'm in love with it so far . If you get a AT you will be kicking yourself in the ass.

 

Here are a couple of other options -

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/2730719130.html Private sale, 08 similar mileage, a little more $$ to start.

http://www.acuraofpeabody.com/certif...49d5877e54.htm Dealer sale, 08, less mileage, more $$.

 

I saw both of those but there a little to much $$ for me.

I'm trying to stay closer to the $20k side. Something with 10k less millage for almost $4-5k more isn't worth it for me

 

When I was looking to buy a 07' TLS back then I passed on a blue MT car, Why? Because my craphole state of NJ has endless traffic! Morning, noon & night! Didn't think it would be too much fun.

 

lots of traffic every day=AT
occasional bouts of heavy traffic and increased fun factor=MT

what do YOU want?

CPO-that's up to you...peace of mind, worth to you, etc. you need to find out how much of the warranty from the CPO is left and see if its worth it to you.

depends on condition of each vehicle and its service records and carfax (though carfax is not the end all to the car's life). how particular are you about the vehicles condition and what are your expectations? if you have a candidate, get a pre-purchase inspection to insure the health of the vehicle. with a CPO, you don't necessarily have to worry as much, but its never a guarantee.

everyone is going to give you a biased opinion. ultimately you're the one driving the car, so you need to choose one that will best suit your needs and wants. good luck!

 

Its mostly occasional bouts of heavy traffic "occasional" might even be an over statement

I've never owed a MT but know how to drive it somewhat thanks to my dad never owning a AT lol.

This might sound weird but I wouldnt regret getting the AT, if anything I might regret getting the MT because I dont know what its like to have as a DD.

No doubt the MT would be more fun at times but getting used to the clutch and seeing all my passengers doing the "head bob" wont be as fun lol

 

the majority of first time owner's of the MT and the TL...take some time to get used to it. the upside is it won't buck like a bronco if as you're learning. (my civic did this when i was first learning if you didn't get the engagement point right).

i had no problems transitioning to the TL. so most of driving career has been with a MT.

if you're willing to learn...then the TL as a first time car might be challenging depending on how well you "feel" out the car and your shifting. so...up to you.

 

go with the 6MT...thats what i did

 

manual hands down..

 

Let's not get carried away.

 

I have had both auto type S and manual Type S. The manual is for sure quicker and more fun to drive, but there are those times that I do wish I could just kick back and go. I dont ever have to deal with traffic either so its nothing to do with that. Overall though, if I had the option right now I would go with manual without a doubt. Shifts great, feels much stronger than the auto car, and is pretty rare as far as TL's go.

James

 

If you're going to get a sportier version (Type S) there's no point in not getting a manual. Otherwise you might as well just get the base model if you want an automatic.

 

6MT. I wish I had gotten a manual instead of 5AT. Type S is still fun though.

 

joneill, you're young-you should own your own manual transmission. At the end of the day, you've got to choose the one that feels best to you.

 

Is anyone proud of having the AT lol?

 

nope lol

 

lmao

/end of discussion! haha!

 

MT ALL DAY! Im tired of driving my auto its just not the same lol...unless you just like to cruise -___-

 

Agree

 

there's way too many buttons in the dash/steering wheel/center console for me to to push. don't have enough hands and fingers to fuss with all of that AND have to deal with shifting.

seriously though, i couldn't find a MT with low mileage/in good condition... so i went AT. I don't regret it at all, it's still fun to drive... plus, it's definitely a pro when sitting in daily traffic jams on work commute.

I'd go with option #2 if the choice was available... i'd try to talk them down to $23k though.

 

Youre profile says youre 20 yo... fact is, you get the auto.. youre going to end up selling it soon after.. You will, and i mean WILL, be bored... Get the 6 speed!. Im 25 and Ive owned 10 different cars and the only automatic car I would buy is a GTR or a bugatti

 

MT, most fun, decent price and miles, you can't go wrong and won't regret it

 

Do you want a manual or automatic? That one is up to you.

1 and 2 sound like better deals. I would see if you can get something off the CPO one. The best part of a CPO car is the warranty.

 

You shouldn't be trying to shift and adjust the radio. That goes for any car and it's common sense.

 

6MT all the way! Having said that, I found this one of the trickiest MT's to "finesse"....it took some getting used to, and I have driven manuals since learning to drive (a loooong time ago).

I think you will regret the auto if you buy it.

 

i drove both the 6mt and auto before settling on the 6mt.. i dont regret buying it even if i get stuck in the occasional miami rush hour traffic.. the car is quick compared to the auto and way more fun to drive.. i got mine (an 07 nbp) for $21k w/60k on the dash and a 12m/12k miles powertrain warranty from the dealer

 

If money was a main factor then the lowest price one. If you really want a manual then get it. Your checking them out and seeing the condition. Some cars with 30k miles look worse then cars with 50k miles. It depends on the previous owner. Some people are the only ones in the car, they might weigh 130 pounds and the interior is mint and say the car has 60,000 miles, but looks new. Another car might have 35,000 miles, but was owned by a 400 pound man with 3 kids that weight 200 pounds and eat ice cream and cookies in it. Its all relaitive. Its your choice. Get what you want and GOOD LUCK with NBP. OUCH.

 

Being 20 and still in school money is a big part of this decision.

I looked up the MT car fax and it happened to be the same car I (my dad) test drove a couple weeks ago at the Acura of Peabody but they were asking for $26k. They sold it to an auction which got picked up by a smaller dealer. Is that something to be concerned about?

 

Not usually.

A dealer does not want used cars sitting on their lot very long. It's just money tied up doing nothing. A lot will have to do with how much they paid, how they are carrying costs, etc.

But it's probably just as simple as "sell it at auction and make a few bucks now" was more attractive than "let it sit on the lot for xx weeks and make a few bucks later."

 

I was able to test drive the automatic today (1) and it felt very smooth , no dents, no tire rash and so on.

Im not committing to anything yet but I would like to talk numbers with them to see how much they can come down. For you veteran car buyers have you found any useful negotiation tricks for getting the price down?

The MT isnt out of the equation, with money being tight its most likely coming down to the least expensive of the two.

 

in your case, since you've test driven several and they are all comparable, you can use the other cars to your advantage. here's what i think based on my past experiences..

1. i'd first make sure you have your finances in order whether going through private or dealer, so if you're financing, make sure you tell the seller your financing is in order and you're ready to go. this will let them know that you're serious and will open them up to negotiation since they're risking losing the sale from someone who's not wasting time for joyrides and is ready to buy now. also, shop around different banks for finance rates... i've found that i've always gotten better rates with outside banks/credit unions than the dealer's bank (obviously this wouldn't be applicable for a private seller). i know it's not directly related to the sales price, but it may save you money in the long run. if going through dealer, you can even use the outside bank as a bargaining chip. on my last purchase, i gave them a hard number that they would have to get to as the monthly payment, otherwise "i couldn't afford it". the dealer actually lowered the selling price because they couldn't match the rate through their bank in order to get the sale. if you can get them to do that, even if you don't get a good rate, you can look into a refi (check all fees and closing costs prior so that you're not screwed by these fees in the end) to get a lower rate.

2. use the other cars you've test driven as your bargaining chips. if you're wanting the the MT (#2), use the AT (#1) as your bargaining chip. for example, say that you tested driven another 07 NBP TL-S with LESS miles and they only want $23k for it. If there are imperfections with the car you're using as your bargaining chip, don't mention these imperfections. chances are, if you're dealing with a private seller, they've also done research on comps in the area, so they may even know which car you're talking about.

3. if you're buying from private party, note the CPO car which comes with whatever extended warranties from a dealer for only not much more than their asking price. yeah, CPO doesn't mean much for us, but alot of people who don't know any better are sold just because a car is CPO. if they can't come up with any reason why their car is worth close to a retail CPO price, then they've gotta consider lowering the price unless they aren't in a hurry to sell.

4. find every imperfection you can on the car you're interested in. for example, check the tire tread.. if they are low, say "hey, these tires need replacing and they will generally cost about $1k." use these to negotiate a lower price.

5. do you kbb research. have a print out of it with you with the date you printed. everybody wants a good deal, so do the kbb value of the car in your area with the appropriate mileage. don't pay the kbb price, always shoot for at least a few hundred lower so that you don't feel screwed and the seller doesn't feel ripped off.

6. look at the carfax if possible. note any accidents, etc as your bargaining chip. alot of the cars i've looked at have been in multiple states. scrutinize! if the car has been in a northern state, that means it's probably been through snow at some point. snow means salt leading to potential rust, which no buyer wants to deal with. another bargaining chip.

there's plenty of more ways to bargain, but that's what has worked for me. good luck!

 

It's called a joke, brah

 

i would not discuss how you are going to pay for the car or monthly payments or any of the financials until the price of the vehicle has been agreed upon. have your dad with you when doing negotiations (or do them over the phone) and have a price in mind that you are willing to pay prior to going into it. its all a game...you just have to know how to play it. if the dealer is sticking to their price, and it isn't meeting yours...walk away. see if they come back at you with a deal the following day. in your case you have other options.

yes you can scrutinize the vehicle for its flaws but the dealer may come back and say, its a used car. hopefully you have played with the car (checked all the switches for the windows, sunroof, open and close things, play with navi etc).

don't just look at kbb. check nada and edmund's for further price comparisons. you have an idea of what the market prices are currently since you are shopping. typically if you can get the car for under the "retail" price you're doing ok. if the price is really far below retail...begin wondering what is wrong with the car.

if you are really serious...get a pre-purchase inspection to make sure all the mechanicals are ok. this can be done at an acura dealer for $125ish. can also be done at an indy shop. however an acura dealer will know what to look for.

i bought my MDX CPO'd, well below the going retail CPO price and below non-CPO retail price. so dont' be shied away from the CPO car you have on your list. dealer's want to move inventory.

you have a few options, have fun and good luck!