I went to the dealer last week for a oil change and the service writer, who is a nice guy btw, told me it's time for a tranny fluid change and a cabin filter change. Is this possible at 17k miles, I mean I can understand the cabin filter change but a tranny fluid change. Do I really have to do it now? I looked in both the service manual and the owners manual and didn't see anything regarding it. My mid said it was time for a B1 service but the manual doesn't say anything about changing the tranny fluid.

 

If I were you, I'd change it, no matter what anybody else says. After the first 10k, the tranny parts will grind together and produce metal shavings and things since it is first being broken in.

For new cars, I'd always do 1 drain and fill at 10k. Then, I'd do 3 drain/fills at 30k.

 

If I could go back in time, I would have changed my tranny fluid at 15k miles. Some may say that it is a waste of $$ but for my own personal sanity it would have been worth it. My first change was at 30k.

 

i believe the manual says that you do not have to do nething for the tranny fluid until 60k

 

It wouldn't suprise me. Z1 fluid sucks, it isn't designed for extended drain intervals, and these trannys trash the fluid pretty quickly. Acura is insane with their service intervals on the transmission, the 60k recomendation is waaaaaaaaay to long.

I've got under 14k miles, in the spring I'm doing a 3x3 on mine and changing it to Redline D4.

 

I changed mine at 20,000. Had it analyzed and it was toast. I have no idea why Honda recommends the interval that they do other than a selling point.

 

Makes their cost of ownership look lower. Plus it's enough to try and get people through warranty, if the trans fails after the warranty, that is just more business for them.

 

i did the 3x3 change maybe like 2 years ago on my '05. i do a 3x1 every time i change the oil now. hopefully this will preserve my tranny.

 

he lied to you...your good till 60k miles. don't be a sucker.

 

If it’s driven hard at all I would change it. Its cheap and good insurance...

On a side note my 05 RL only got the 3x3 change at 60k but it started acting funny around 85k so I did another 3x3 and will just change it every 10-15k from now on to make sure it stays smooth. There is really no reason to extend the drain intervals on these transmissions since it’s not that expensive to change anyway.

 

Wrong.

 

anyone with a failed trans will tell you the dangers of waiting too long on fluid changes
The book LIES!

 

since we are on this topic, i am planning to change mine. should i go with the OEM or aftermarket.

 

Well I am gonna do it real soon, probably in the next few weeks cause I have my wife's b-day next week and then my son's b-day the following week so I'm kinda jammed. But I go to the dealer and have them do it.

 

changed mine around 30k but I would change the oil every 10k.

 

Many people will tell you OEM all the way and I used to be one of them, but my opinion has changed. ATF-Z1 has not kept Honda's transmissions from failing and I’ve had very good luck using Castrol "Import" ATF. It says it replaces Z1 on the back so I figured it was worth a shot. There is no difference in shift feel or anything for me. Doing a drain/fill at 10k miles the fluid still comes out cherry red where the Genuine Honda stuff was pretty bad every time.

 

Well let me ask you guys which fluid should I use cause if the oem fluid is not all that great then I'll go to my mechanic and do the fluid change there.

 

Go synthetic, Amsoil or Redline D4.

 

half will say only honda fluid -
others will say amzoil atf or this is the first Ive heard of castro import atf

 

it takes 12 quarts to get most/all the old honda or whatever fluid out of the system- which holds 7.3 total and hides half inside the torque convertor, thats why the 5 minute drive between drains

 

Ya im VERY happy with the castrol stuff. I’ve been using it in 3 different hondas and all have been good even my fiancé’s 95 v6 accord with 220k miles on it...

 

no votes for the gm friction modified synchromesh?

 

The topic is about auto trannys, not 6MT's.

 

I use and like the Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. Been using it for the past 40k miles. It will give firmer (some people say harsh) shifts although.

 

I used to work as a service advisor for Acura(now for nissan) and I would recomend every 15k. thats what I do on both my acura's. I worked for Acura for 2 years and by 15-20k the fluid is usually nasty. i use oem only

 

i guy i know at acura here in NYC told me its good to change it every 15k miles..

 

I changed out at 15K with Amsoil full synthetic. IMO it's the best. Had dealer do the 3X flush. I agree with the theory that any metal shavings during break-in will be within the system to flush out by that time.

'07 TL-S CBP 5A/T
Fujita F5
Progress RSB
P2R throttle body w/spacers
Braille battery
V1 on the lookout

 

If a person was wanting to follow the 15k interval, it would be wise to do a single ATF refill (3 qts x 1 drain) with every engine oil change. Provided that you do your own engine oil changes at home and do it every 6k miles.

 

It's shot in 15-20k miles because the Z1 fluid sucks. Z1 uses shitty quality basestock that oxidizes quickly. It isn't synthetic, which TL trannys should use, and they charge you a high price just because it's OEM fluid.

The fact Honda says 60 or 100k service interval is insane. The factory fluid isn't even close to being able to meet that requirement. No wonder they have so many trannys take a dump.

 

Great info! Time to change ATF.

 

So I guess I'll use the amsoil synthetic. But do I just drain it and refill it or drain it refill it then drive it for 5 minutes then drain it again and refill it and end it there

 

Drain and refill.
Drive it, make sure it gets though all the gears.

Do it a total of 3 times.

Get a couple extra quarts of fluid for top offs, or in case you need a little more.

 

Will using aftermarket a/t fluid void the mfr's warranty ?

 

Legally, only if the manufacturer supplies free oil changes as long as the fluid is spec'd for your car. However it doesn't mean they won't give you a hard time.

 

So with that being said I should just the oem fluid then. I mean I under warranty so if the tranny goes to crap their just gonna have to eat it. I might as well let them do the fluid change too. So it's on record they were the only one to touch the car. Also my personal mechanic has the machine the you hook up to the tranny where it pushes new fluid in and sucks the old fluid out at the same time should I go that route.

 

Honda says not to use a flush maching. Just do the drain and refill 3 times with a short drive between each and you will be good.

 

ur trans is proabably going to detonate, my rebuilt trans is at 20K and the fluid is needing to be changed and I am not gonna do it as the first service should not be until well past 30K miles. Trans has a noticable delay between 2-3 shift.

 

uhm I just love it when people who have no clue...

the trans has several design faults that cause the fluid to burn up due to it getting overheated during shifting because of the small oiling passages. Even though honda has redesigned the casings, the transmission is too small overal for what it needs to do. This is why you got a new ecm with the trans change out for the 2nd gen cars and the 3rd gen TL gets limited power during the first 2 gears......to try to alleviate stress on the trans.

The 4at transmissions do not show fluid problems like that dispite using the same fluid.

 

I think it's you that needs to get a clue. Go do some research on Z1, then get back to me.

Look at UOA's for it, in cars that ALREADY have the redesigned case and passages. Guess what? It still croaks in 15-20k miles. Z1 fluid is nothing but Dextron III with a little more friction modifier in it, that's it. It uses Group II and a little Group II+ basestock, yet Honda charges synthetic prices for it because it's OEM fluid. The low quality basestock doesn't allow it to be used for extended drains, and the add pack is typically used up by then anyway. The reality is, Z1 fluid is a poor match for the TL, period.

 

^ Both of you are correct.

That is the scary part. Take a trans that stresses the fluid and then but in marginal fluid.