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Was driving to job Friday morning and my old tire front right exploded. Replaced it with spare tire, went back home and then to junkyard with exploded tire and they put used one. Went to work 60 miles in both directions and when 100 yards away "new" tire exploded with loud bang and inside crack. Old tire was worn out and only days to go out. I do not understand why tire from junkyard banged? Junkyard claim something cut tire and didn't return money. I drive with spare tire around for 10 miles and nothing cut it. I'm suspicious "new" tire is old. See how brown is it. I do not know when is manufactured as I learn only a few hours ago how to find it at tire and that exploded tire is replaced by another junkyard.
For tires manufactured after the year 2000, you'll find each tire's 'birth date' stamped on its outer sidewall. This number follows a standard, straightforward format of the week and year represented as a 4-digit number (WWYY).
If you look at the sidewall of your tire, I think the date code is 21 or 31 followed by "01", "01" being the critical portion. That means the manufacture date of the tire was 2001, some 23 years ago. Most tire manufacturers recommend a maximum recommended tire life of 10 years. You are more than twice that maximum!
For tires manufactured after the year 2000, you'll find each tire's 'birth date' stamped on its outer sidewall. This number follows a standard, straightforward format of the week and year represented as a 4-digit number (WWYY).
If you look at the sidewall of your tire, I think the date code is 21 or 31 followed by "01", "01" being the critical portion. That means the manufacture date of the tire was 2001, some 23 years ago. Most tire manufacturers recommend a maximum recommended tire life of 10 years. You are more than twice that maximum!
I can't stop laughing at this.
But this guy needs to think about his own, and others, safety. Good tires are very important.
Unfortunately most of TL owner is now falling into EG/EK civic owner status.
double burn- I have both.
But I keep fresh tires on them because I expect them to put up with my driving style. even the beater, trailer-park pickup truck I take to the dump a few times a year has a matching set of new-when-installed tires.
A daily-driver needs new, name-brand rubber. avoid those off-shore brands whenever possible, but if budget dictates, they're better than used.
For tires manufactured after the year 2000, you'll find each tire's 'birth date' stamped on its outer sidewall. This number follows a standard, straightforward format of the week and year represented as a 4-digit number (WWYY).
If you look at the sidewall of your tire, I think the date code is 21 or 31 followed by "01", "01" being the critical portion. That means the manufacture date of the tire was 2001, some 23 years ago. Most tire manufacturers recommend a maximum recommended tire life of 10 years. You are more than twice that maximum!
I just notice that you actually figured out of my tire what age is it. Tank you and respect. If I read well f tire is from 2001??? That junkyard was good for years for tires. Than owner sell it to bunch of crooks like 5 years go. Last 3 times I had problems there. And yes I should look at it from angle of safety.
But I keep fresh tires on them because I expect them to put up with my driving style. even the beater, trailer-park pickup truck I take to the dump a few times a year has a matching set of new-when-installed tires.
A daily-driver needs new, name-brand rubber. avoid those off-shore brands whenever possible, but if budget dictates, they're better than used.
I don't mean to 100% TL/civic owners. Instead of spending on off brand, you could either buy used tires in good condition from Ebay or your local used tires place. I bought used tire before with no issue, just make sure check for the date code no more than 4 years old and no patch.
Yes even used tires I still get a matching set of Michelin Super Sport lol. For me either Michelin or Continental, pricey compared to other brands but well worth it.
I don't mean to 100% TL/civic owners. Instead of spending on off brand, you could either buy used tires in good condition from Ebay or your local used tires place. I bought used tire before with no issue, just make sure check for the date code no more than 4 years old and no patch.
Yes even used tires I still get a matching set of Michelin Super Sport lol. For me either Michelin or Continental, pricey compared to other brands but well worth it.
yeah I've purchased used tires from bestusedtires.com in a pinch... i would never consider going to a junkyard for tires... those cars have been sitting out in the sun for god knows how long...
Almost 3 month latter extension of it. When replaced tire second time I heard slight metallic noise right away and so for this almost 3 month. Past night was stronger noise. This morning checked and it is mark that I sow in photo. When lift car and did 12,6 and other angles it show up that tire is shaking, wheel bearing is bad. I spotted a few months go that brake caliper is to close to rotor, like 1/16 away on that passenger side. There is play in bearing and it touch rotor. How long I can drive like this. No still to much of noise. No grinding, just noise of caliper touching rotor. Tough to order NSK bearing, like OEM, and it is only 31$ at Rockauto. They say can be here at Friday for 13$. Another option is "Precise" from O'reilly for 45$. All other parts stores look for 85$. There is in same O'reilly store "Precise" for 45$ and 75$. Not clear what is it.
Well that content about wheel bearings is in the wrong place! But wondering why your prices vary may come down to the country where the bearing is made. I know when I get bearings (or belts) from a local bearing and belt vendor I'm presented with different sources. It might include Chine, Japan and the USA..
Tested again changed diagnosis. I think upper control arm is problem. No shaking at 12/6 and 9/3 but shaking and a lot at 7,5/1,5 and I can see it is shaking in upper control arm. I have an upper control arm from junkyard will put it when I get time. I think problem with caliper/rotor is that I installed that caliper little with angle past year, rust or so. And when pads get thinner it started scrapping. Edit I think rust is behind rotor, as rotor is replaced past year to. I did some cleaning there but not much. I have 2 pads at hand and will put there to and get clean of rust caliper and its housing. However can be rotor is not seating properly, probably will clean rotor housing too. Only I ordered wheel bearing from rockauto and is on way. It is ok keep one in stack if will need.
Replaced upper control arm passenger side and driving improved. But need do same at driver side. About rotor and caliper both are properly installed. Gap at both side between rotor and caliper is like strong sixteen. Obviously rotor is to thick. Just will live it to worn out itself natural way.
Btw look like working in car parts store is good as it is high profit business. They charge 100% or so overhead.
Well after driving around for a dose miles rotor touching caliper again. Upper control arm was bad but I still have some shaking in wheel. Plus top of wheel is like 1/2 out of level at one almost level surface. But I do not hear grinding noise from bearing still. I hear noise when rotor touch caliper, it is all. Most likely will replace bearing tomorrow. Get it from rockauto Yesterday.
Went for a few miles today and noise from rotor/caliper touching was to much. Lift wheel again and now is a lot shaking at 12/6 and upper arm is good now. Rotor move away and toward caliper with shaking. Again didn't hear noise from bearing when turned wheel and keep rotor away from caliper. Didn't look much difficult to turn when I did put tranny in neutral and spin the wheel keeping rotor away from caliper. Rotor and wheel move together obviously.
Bearing was bad. Ordered it from Rockauto but wasn't capable to kick out old bearing and put new one in. So went to you pull and brought a knuckle with good bearing and put it up.
06-15-2024, 04:30 PM
