NickD

04 TL approx 104K miles!

As a maintenance issue, I decided to change my timing belt to prevent future problems down the road. Here is the issue: Before I dropped the car off it was running flawless, very quiet during idling and while driving it. I take the utmost care on the car and it has been great to me so far.

Problem is now the car after the timing belt change, has a grinding noise while idling after the car warms up. The noise doesnt appear when the car is cold. Noise does not go away!!!!! The noise appears to come from the same area ---drive belts. I have brought it back to the dealer 3 times already, 1st timing issue recalucate the ECM---timing was off. They cant get it correct!!! I just want the car to run the way prior the repair. Any Help?

Thanks,
NickD

mishar

Driving belt usually makes a grinding noise when it is over tighten. Timing off issue, that can’t be corrected, is not quite clear. First I am not sure if ECM has any sensor to detect timing off, but if the timing is really off than it can be and must be corrected.

weedeater

'Timing off' makes no sense, really. It is determined by the computer and is not settable...

I have to go look at the manual about this.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

When doing a timing belt it is best to replace, water pump, drive belts and timing belt tensoner if its in rough shape. At 100k its smart to do all of those including a coolant flush since the water pump is coming off. At this point we all don't know what kind of half ass'd work they did. Could be a very possible thing they are off by 1 tooth..

I never thought highly of the dealer and their line of techs that work there. Best techs ive seen so far are private shops.


car will still run if your off by a tooth. Depending on the engine design you might not have an interference issuse. If these are not an interference engine and your off a tooth your timing will sure as hell be off as well and no sensor in the world will correct that type of mistake.

Xx06SickspdTlxX

Its probably because the timing belt is overtightened, i would take the car back and have them adjust it!

Inaccurate

My vote is one of the belt tensioners (either the timing belt tensioner or accessory belt tensioner). If you didn't pay extra for a NEW belt tensioner, they sure as hell used your old one.

Kostyan

If they cant make it right the 2nd time, demand full refund, take the money and have it redone elsewhere.

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

did u go to an acura dealership???

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

And what would happen if he walked into the dealer and said you guys overtightened my timing belt....

Do you have any idea on how a timing belt setup looks like?
Or works?

Its not a drive belt system where you tighten it and keep adjusting it after certain miles are put on...

Its a self adjusting tensioner. Other wise how many times do you really want to pull off timing belt covers and keep adjusting the belt intill its due at 100k...

BTW I am an ase tech. Providing those statements should never be said again. False..

Xx06SickspdTlxX

Sorry for the false info. But on some Honda and Acura engines, there is a balancing belt located next to the timing belt that if tensioned wrong, will cause a humming/grinding sound especially when warmed up! Now i am aware that the J series motor does not have this.

TL-Rocket

For what this is worth the "J" series engines (Odyssey, Pilot and MDX and Accord) can be tricky engines to replace a timing belt on - yes - even by technicians with plenty of experience. It would behoove us TLs owners who need this done to choose wisely. BTW, when the time comes I'm doing this myself.

TL-Rocket
'04 SSM 6MT

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Nothing is hard, just take your time make sure you have all the tools needed for the job all the parts and you will get it done. Granted theres a lot of things that need to be taken out to get to the covers but once there its all of a matter of lining up your marks and putting things back together.

SodaLuvr

I think your "grinding" noise may be caused by a damaged bearing in a belt tensioner, either the timing belt tensioner or one of the accessory belt tensioners.

Usually, if the tensioner looks OK, it could probably be re-used, same with the water pump, especially if you rack up 100k miles within four or five years.

But usually, I recommend replacing the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump, all drive belts, spark plugs, and coolant every 100k.

mishar

You are not quite right. It is self adjusting tensioner, but I’ve seen so many times that people “help” a little bit that spring before tightening tensioner. So it is very easy to over tight timing belt.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Its a self adjusting tensioner...

Theres nothing more I can tell you about those words.

mishar

What about rest of them?

Syer

its not just replacing a belt per say. its a full timing belt kit comes with a few parts. Belts, Seals, Bearings, water pump. i just had it done cost $750.00+ asi understand it. it takes a few hours to get done. my TL has 110k so it was way over do.

good luck.

Modulus

Haha, I feel bad for the guy that's never done more than an oil change and spark plugs and reads one of your posts. You're such an inspiration, next thing he knows he's got the all the accessory belts on the floor next to the timing covers and the crankshaft pulley won't sit still while he tries to loosen up the bolt. For most people "all the tools needed for the job" includes an expensive, or frequently unavailable, crankshaft pulley wrench that they either won't be able to find, or won't want to buy. But I guess that you're not comparing it to an oil change, so..
The truth is almost that after you're done digging down to the meat of the engine, all that's there is a crankshaft, some rods and pistons, and a valvetrain. It's cake.

weedeater

Having owned a car with a self-adjusting timing belt tensioner, I can say that if it was not installed correctly it could easily over OR under tension the belt.

I don't know about this one, but I am a firm believer in Murphy's Law.

fsttyms1

The timing belt tensioner on the TL is a hydraulic tensioner. It cant be installed wrong or over or under tightened. There are 2 bolts that hold it in place. Obviously if its installed wrong the bolts arent going to line up and tighten.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

This isnt a DIY at home with some simple tools.

You do not need a special crank pully remover for the job. We do many 3.0/3.2/3.5 honda timing belts. If you think a TL is hard by all means do one on a newer PT cruiser and let me know how your doing when you have to lift then engine also to the point where all the mounts on the drivers side break. I don't know if you were kidding around in your post or you were serious but all jokes aside this goes for every timing belt, once you are there facing the belt its all of a matter of taking your time, marking your marks, lining up everything and checking everything a million times before you slap back the covers ect.. best thing we do is once belt is on and we are 100% all timing marks are dead on we hand crank over the engine. thats probably one of your safest bet.

NickD

Hello all,
I found your info informative! Yes, I am bring the car back to the dealer. I believe that their tech's are very inexperienced. This will be the 3rd time and I have confirmed both to the service manager and the tech the grinding noise. All they can tell me they check the car over and cant find a problem. I know there is something wrong with the job they did. They car was running great before I brought it in. The problem is after timing belt change, the car when it warms up makes a grinding noise when the car is idle and in park --exact location @ drive belt area. I also change the timing belt tenisoner and it hasnt gone away!!!

In my own personal opinion, I believed either they tightened it too tight or lined up the wrong way.

Any help, what the hell do I tell these guys to check?

Thanks a lot,
Nick

Kostyan

NickD, no one on this forum can tell you exactly what to check for because they were not the ones that were doing the job. Stop guessing and take your car to the dealer and just tell them the car does not run right. Let them figure out on their own- you paid money to do the job right.

Better than that, I would not take any other chances with that shop, and just would come in and ask for a full refund.

wilsel

Just out of curiousity. How much did the job cost?

NickD

Brought the car back to the dealer 4 times and they cant seem to find out what the problem is. Dealer answer we check the car over and redone the timing belt job with new parts and still makes this grinding noise when the car is in idle after it has warmed up. Noise occured after timing belt job. I never had a noise related issue with the car. Next option is to call an Acura Rep from HQ or get the car fix elswhere and seek legal action for my $$$ (assuming if the noise upon repair is from their bad timing belt job). Actually, I will speak to the manager and owner of the dealership and hopefully they can call Acura and see what the heck is wrong with the car?

Thanks,
Nick