Thinking about buying this one needs tips and opinions!!
#1
big bad bust
Thread Starter
Thinking about buying this one needs tips and opinions!!
ok so the day is finally here im thinking about this one..http://www.openroadacuraofeastbrunsw...036&vk=1420288
im thinking i wana offer 24,500-25,000 what do you guys thinks any tips etc?
im thinking i wana offer 24,500-25,000 what do you guys thinks any tips etc?
#2
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
As they have a bottom line, all you can do is make the offer and hope for the best.
Nice car, but check the tires and hopefully the electrical system is fine. They replaced 2 tires so make certain they all match (CPO requirement) and the electrical system has been checked over a few times and the battery has been replace twice. CPO so you'll be covered. I would also check on the anti-theft, keyless device, alarm,that was installed.
Good luck.
Nice car, but check the tires and hopefully the electrical system is fine. They replaced 2 tires so make certain they all match (CPO requirement) and the electrical system has been checked over a few times and the battery has been replace twice. CPO so you'll be covered. I would also check on the anti-theft, keyless device, alarm,that was installed.
Good luck.
#5
big bad bust
Thread Starter
yeah as soon as i posted that i checked it hmmm is it normal to have the the eletrical system checked that many times? damn i hope this car does not have any underlying problem
it took so long to finally fond a clean looking one too
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#6
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Just keep this in mind:
Dead Battery? Check for a Bad HFL Control Unit
Currently Applies To: ’07–09 MDX and ’07–08 TL
Got a vehicle in your shop with a dead battery? A
bad HandsFreeLinkâ (HFL) control unit could be the
culprit. A bad unit can cause a parasitic draw on the
battery of 225 to 275 mA, which is certain death if
the vehicle isn’t driven daily.
To check for a bad HFL control unit, follow these steps:
1. Start the engine, and wait for 30 seconds.
2. Press the HFL Talk button on the left side of the
steering wheel.
3. If you hear the beep, continue with normal HFL
troubleshooting.
4. If you don’t hear the beep, replace the HFL
control unit
You might want to try this during the test drive.
The car is a CPO so you'll be good to go, providing everything checks out ok.
Dead Battery? Check for a Bad HFL Control Unit
Currently Applies To: ’07–09 MDX and ’07–08 TL
Got a vehicle in your shop with a dead battery? A
bad HandsFreeLinkâ (HFL) control unit could be the
culprit. A bad unit can cause a parasitic draw on the
battery of 225 to 275 mA, which is certain death if
the vehicle isn’t driven daily.
To check for a bad HFL control unit, follow these steps:
1. Start the engine, and wait for 30 seconds.
2. Press the HFL Talk button on the left side of the
steering wheel.
3. If you hear the beep, continue with normal HFL
troubleshooting.
4. If you don’t hear the beep, replace the HFL
control unit
You might want to try this during the test drive.
The car is a CPO so you'll be good to go, providing everything checks out ok.
Last edited by Turbonut; 03-05-2011 at 07:48 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
Just keep this in mind:
Dead Battery? Check for a Bad HFL Control Unit
Currently Applies To: ’07–09 MDX and ’07–08 TL
Got a vehicle in your shop with a dead battery? A
bad HandsFreeLinkâ (HFL) control unit could be the
culprit. A bad unit can cause a parasitic draw on the
battery of 225 to 275 mA, which is certain death if
the vehicle isn’t driven daily.
To check for a bad HFL control unit, follow these steps:
1. Start the engine, and wait for 30 seconds.
2. Press the HFL Talk button on the left side of the
steering wheel.
3. If you hear the beep, continue with normal HFL
troubleshooting.
4. If you don’t hear the beep, replace the HFL
control unit
You might want to try this during the test drive.
The car is a CPO so you'll be good to go, providing everything checks out ok.
Dead Battery? Check for a Bad HFL Control Unit
Currently Applies To: ’07–09 MDX and ’07–08 TL
Got a vehicle in your shop with a dead battery? A
bad HandsFreeLinkâ (HFL) control unit could be the
culprit. A bad unit can cause a parasitic draw on the
battery of 225 to 275 mA, which is certain death if
the vehicle isn’t driven daily.
To check for a bad HFL control unit, follow these steps:
1. Start the engine, and wait for 30 seconds.
2. Press the HFL Talk button on the left side of the
steering wheel.
3. If you hear the beep, continue with normal HFL
troubleshooting.
4. If you don’t hear the beep, replace the HFL
control unit
You might want to try this during the test drive.
The car is a CPO so you'll be good to go, providing everything checks out ok.
And not a single "dude" or "bro"!
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Much appreciated........
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#9
big bad bust
Thread Starter
well bad news fellas car was clean and drove nice but the dealer diddnt wana budge on the price so we walked out mad but still walked out car was clean except for one little mark on the interior and a paint chipped front bumper that they were willing to fix but they did wana move on the price so we left
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#13
Safety Car
iTrader: (4)
Sorry that it didnt work out man. Hey also just to go along with what was said above. A good thing to do is check that every panel has its original vin label still there. If your not familiar they are easily and quickly visible except for the front bumper and front fenders
To find the front bumper VIN label you must pop the hood and in the area between the passenger side headlight and grill slightly pry up the black plastic cover panel its hidden under that.
Unfortunately the front fenders are not visible as far as I know without removing a lot of stuff including the front bumper. The rest of the car you can see by looking under the hood, in the door jams, open the trunk to see the rear bumper and trunk lid.
Hopefully this helps you its just a quick and simple way to atleast make sure the panel is original. It doesnt ensure if panels have been repainted though.
James
To find the front bumper VIN label you must pop the hood and in the area between the passenger side headlight and grill slightly pry up the black plastic cover panel its hidden under that.
Unfortunately the front fenders are not visible as far as I know without removing a lot of stuff including the front bumper. The rest of the car you can see by looking under the hood, in the door jams, open the trunk to see the rear bumper and trunk lid.
Hopefully this helps you its just a quick and simple way to atleast make sure the panel is original. It doesnt ensure if panels have been repainted though.
James
#14
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Here's a few CPO cars:
CPO
2008 TL Type-S
$24,995
28,957 Nighthawk Black Pearl Automatic Piazza Acura of Ardmore
Ardmore PA, 19003-1305
(800) 797-8241
CPO
2008 TL Type-S
$25,985
33,959 MOROCCAN RED PEARL Automatic Acura of Ramsey
Ramsey NJ, 07446-2646
(201) 934-8200
CPO
2008 TL Type-S
$25,881
31,503 KINETIC BLUE PEARL Automatic Curry Acura
Scarsdale NY
CPO
2007 TL Type-S $24,985
23,984 SILVER MOON Automatic Acura of Ramsey
Ramsey NJ, 07446-2646
(201) 934-8200
CPO
2008 TL Type-S
$24,995
28,957 Nighthawk Black Pearl Automatic Piazza Acura of Ardmore
Ardmore PA, 19003-1305
(800) 797-8241
CPO
2008 TL Type-S
$25,985
33,959 MOROCCAN RED PEARL Automatic Acura of Ramsey
Ramsey NJ, 07446-2646
(201) 934-8200
CPO
2008 TL Type-S
$25,881
31,503 KINETIC BLUE PEARL Automatic Curry Acura
Scarsdale NY
CPO
2007 TL Type-S $24,985
23,984 SILVER MOON Automatic Acura of Ramsey
Ramsey NJ, 07446-2646
(201) 934-8200
#16
Racer
well bad news fellas car was clean and drove nice but the dealer diddnt wana budge on the price so we walked out mad but still walked out car was clean except for one little mark on the interior and a paint chipped front bumper that they were willing to fix but they did wana move on the price so we left ![Frown](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
![Frown](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#17
big bad bust
Thread Starter
well seeing as you say white is right lol but yeah im serious on getting it in white and around 30k or under on the clock but when i seen a couple that have been sold for under 24k with like 24,000 miles i refuse to pay mor than that for a car with 30,000 miles you know? and plus this dealer told me that they got the car for 25,000 and selling for 27,900 and all they could do was take off 200 bucks off the sticker price i literally laughed in that guys face and left and he had the "balls" to say hope i diddnt waist your time when we drove two hours from CT to NJ and throwing more than half the cars price as a down payment...
#19
dealer told me that they got the car for 25,000 and selling for 27,900 and all they could do was take off 200 bucks off the sticker price i literally laughed in that guys face and left and he had the "balls" to say hope i diddnt waist your time when we drove two hours from CT to NJ and throwing more than half the cars price as a down payment...
White Automatic TL-S's...there are a ton of them out there. You have plenty of options.
I guarantee you the dealer probably paid like 21 to 22k for that car on trade in or at auction hes just trying to make his months commission off of you. Throw a lowball offer out to them near the end of the month via email when their car is still sitting on the lot if you dont find something else. As a matter of fact---pick 5 cars you want off autotrader and throw them ALL a lowball offer. See who bites. Tel them you are working with many dealers and will buy whoever has the lowest price.
#20
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
2008 $28,999 24,129, Bridgewater Acura (NJ)
2008 $26,000 21,500, private, Tampa, FL.
2008 $28,298 24,334, Hoehn Acura (CA)
2008 $27,999 13,000, private, Silverthorne, CO
2008 $27,999 24,103, Santa Monica Acura (CA)
2008 $25,988 22,765, All State Motors (Amboy, NJ)
Front End Accident
2007 $25,400 29,824, private, Racine, WI
2007 $24,995 28,629, All American Ford (Hackensack, NJ)
Body mods and base wheels
2007 $24,988 27,190, Scott Select (West Chester, PA)
Good luck
#21
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
well seeing as you say white is right lol but yeah im serious on getting it in white and around 30k or under on the clock but when i seen a couple that have been sold for under 24k with like 24,000 miles i refuse to pay mor than that for a car with 30,000 miles you know? and plus this dealer told me that they got the car for 25,000 and selling for 27,900 and all they could do was take off 200 bucks off the sticker price i literally laughed in that guys face and left and he had the "balls" to say hope i diddnt waist your time when we drove two hours from CT to NJ and throwing more than half the cars price as a down payment...
I don't think it's a realistic goal to expect to find a certified, low mileage, perfectly mint '08 Type S for under 24k. It may happen, but don't expect to be tripping over deals like this.
#22
Racer
What am I missing? They were pricks because they wanted to sell their car for retail? And then said "I hope I didn't waste your time."? Last I checked, an '08 TL-S with ~ 25,000 miles had an NADA retail value of $27,450, and that doesn't account for any CPO expenses. Clean trade is $23,800.
I don't think it's a realistic goal to expect to find a certified, low mileage, perfectly mint '08 Type S for under 24k. It may happen, but don't expect to be tripping over deals like this.
I don't think it's a realistic goal to expect to find a certified, low mileage, perfectly mint '08 Type S for under 24k. It may happen, but don't expect to be tripping over deals like this.
#23
big bad bust
Thread Starter
ok honestly id like to see someone drive a clean good condition to a dealer and get offered 23,-24k for it every time ive seen a car traded in or traded one in my self it was a crazy low offer,one dealer tryed to say 5,000 for my cl type s when they were selling for 11 or 12k at the time. every car ive bought i got at least 3 or 4 grand off of the sticker price i may be young but ive had quite a few cars and dealt with a few dealers never have i been offered oh the best we can do is 200 bucks....really wipe my ass with that sir hope i diddnt waist your time \rant
#24
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
You need to beat them into submission on any trade. It doesn't happen in five minutes. When I traded my Accord for my TL, their initial offer was 7k. NADA clean trade was $10,100. You could literally eat off the floor mats of that car. After two hours of laughing at them while they unsuccessfully tried to devalue my car, I got them up to $9900 and accepted it. The agreed upon price for the TL didn't change. They put new rear rotors and pads on it and put it on their lot for a few hundred over retail.
There's a very good chance these dealers paid 23k+ for these '08's. Then factor in a detail job, certification process, maybe brakes, tires, etc, and there you go.
There's a very good chance these dealers paid 23k+ for these '08's. Then factor in a detail job, certification process, maybe brakes, tires, etc, and there you go.
Last edited by anx1300c; 03-06-2011 at 02:14 PM.
#25
In many of the posts above, remember: If you are "trading a car in", you are losing $$$$$. You will NEVER disrupt the "retail/wholesale/trade-in" dynamics that is the basis for car dealership economics. Sometimes you will do better than other times, but you are still ALWAYS leaving $$$ on the table. Dealers make the bulk of their $$$$ on trade ins, not on new car sales. And they know what they are doing....
#32
big bad bust
Thread Starter
#33
big bad bust
Thread Starter
well im not having luck finding one i dont think im being that picky white with black interior auto....dealers get them in and they are sold before they can take them off the website ughhh i guess i gotta be paitent but mee wantt
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#34
Cruisin'
I know the feeling! I just recently traded in my 04 Accord for a 05 TL. I somehow fell into a pretty dang good deal on the trade in and TL price. Not the color that was my first choice (WDP) but ABP w/ camel interior has a nice luxurious feel too it with out feeling "old" haha!
I bought the accord 2 years ago, and have looking at TL's ever since, so the impatient feeling is all too familiar!
I bought the accord 2 years ago, and have looking at TL's ever since, so the impatient feeling is all too familiar!
#35
Racer
If you've been looking, that might be a tall order. Using the criteria listed, WDP, TL-S, A/T, <30,000 miles:
2008 $28,999 24,129, Bridgewater Acura (NJ)
2008 $26,000 21,500, private, Tampa, FL.
2008 $28,298 24,334, Hoehn Acura (CA)
2008 $27,999 13,000, private, Silverthorne, CO
2008 $27,999 24,103, Santa Monica Acura (CA)
2008 $25,988 22,765, All State Motors (Amboy, NJ)
Front End Accident
2007 $25,400 29,824, private, Racine, WI
2007 $24,995 28,629, All American Ford (Hackensack, NJ)
Body mods and base wheels
2007 $24,988 27,190, Scott Select (West Chester, PA)
Good luck
2008 $28,999 24,129, Bridgewater Acura (NJ)
2008 $26,000 21,500, private, Tampa, FL.
2008 $28,298 24,334, Hoehn Acura (CA)
2008 $27,999 13,000, private, Silverthorne, CO
2008 $27,999 24,103, Santa Monica Acura (CA)
2008 $25,988 22,765, All State Motors (Amboy, NJ)
Front End Accident
2007 $25,400 29,824, private, Racine, WI
2007 $24,995 28,629, All American Ford (Hackensack, NJ)
Body mods and base wheels
2007 $24,988 27,190, Scott Select (West Chester, PA)
Good luck
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