Thinking about buying this one needs tips and opinions!!

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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 12:51 AM
  #1  
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Thinking about buying this one needs tips and opinions!!

ok so the day is finally here im thinking about this one..http://www.openroadacuraofeastbrunsw...036&vk=1420288

im thinking i wana offer 24,500-25,000 what do you guys thinks any tips etc?
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 06:50 AM
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As they have a bottom line, all you can do is make the offer and hope for the best.
Nice car, but check the tires and hopefully the electrical system is fine. They replaced 2 tires so make certain they all match (CPO requirement) and the electrical system has been checked over a few times and the battery has been replace twice. CPO so you'll be covered. I would also check on the anti-theft, keyless device, alarm,that was installed.
Good luck.
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 06:54 AM
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ohh? howd you know this about the car,carfax?
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by teckademics gtr
ohh? howd you know this about the car,carfax?
Although the car indicates no accidents, check all the body VINs and as the windows are etched, double check them also.
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 07:22 AM
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yeah as soon as i posted that i checked it hmmm is it normal to have the the eletrical system checked that many times? damn i hope this car does not have any underlying problem it took so long to finally fond a clean looking one too
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 07:45 AM
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Just keep this in mind:
Dead Battery? Check for a Bad HFL Control Unit
Currently Applies To: ’07–09 MDX and ’07–08 TL
Got a vehicle in your shop with a dead battery? A
bad HandsFreeLinkâ (HFL) control unit could be the
culprit. A bad unit can cause a parasitic draw on the
battery of 225 to 275 mA, which is certain death if
the vehicle isn’t driven daily.
To check for a bad HFL control unit, follow these steps:
1. Start the engine, and wait for 30 seconds.
2. Press the HFL Talk button on the left side of the
steering wheel.
3. If you hear the beep, continue with normal HFL
troubleshooting.
4. If you don’t hear the beep, replace the HFL
control unit

You might want to try this during the test drive.
The car is a CPO so you'll be good to go, providing everything checks out ok.

Last edited by Turbonut; Mar 5, 2011 at 07:48 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 07:53 AM
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will deff do this thanks alot for the info! ill report back later today...also more tips are welcome
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbonut
Just keep this in mind:
Dead Battery? Check for a Bad HFL Control Unit
Currently Applies To: ’07–09 MDX and ’07–08 TL
Got a vehicle in your shop with a dead battery? A
bad HandsFreeLinkâ (HFL) control unit could be the
culprit. A bad unit can cause a parasitic draw on the
battery of 225 to 275 mA, which is certain death if
the vehicle isn’t driven daily.
To check for a bad HFL control unit, follow these steps:
1. Start the engine, and wait for 30 seconds.
2. Press the HFL Talk button on the left side of the
steering wheel.
3. If you hear the beep, continue with normal HFL
troubleshooting.
4. If you don’t hear the beep, replace the HFL
control unit

You might want to try this during the test drive.
The car is a CPO so you'll be good to go, providing everything checks out ok.
Ah, a helpful guy, my age, who obviously has loads of knowledge. Very nice to see!!
And not a single "dude" or "bro"!
Much appreciated........
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 06:34 PM
  #9  
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well bad news fellas car was clean and drove nice but the dealer diddnt wana budge on the price so we walked out mad but still walked out car was clean except for one little mark on the interior and a paint chipped front bumper that they were willing to fix but they did wana move on the price so we left
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 06:46 PM
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Bah. 28000 for a automatic TL-S is too much. I bought a 2008 TL-S MANUAL for 2K less. With lower miles. Keep looking...
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 07:01 PM
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Check this out bro...plenty of automatic while TL type S's. Tell open road to shove it.
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/search...=1299373166939
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 07:10 PM
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^blunt...
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 07:49 PM
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Sorry that it didnt work out man. Hey also just to go along with what was said above. A good thing to do is check that every panel has its original vin label still there. If your not familiar they are easily and quickly visible except for the front bumper and front fenders
To find the front bumper VIN label you must pop the hood and in the area between the passenger side headlight and grill slightly pry up the black plastic cover panel its hidden under that.
Unfortunately the front fenders are not visible as far as I know without removing a lot of stuff including the front bumper. The rest of the car you can see by looking under the hood, in the door jams, open the trunk to see the rear bumper and trunk lid.
Hopefully this helps you its just a quick and simple way to atleast make sure the panel is original. It doesnt ensure if panels have been repainted though.

James
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 08:00 PM
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Here's a few CPO cars:
CPO
2008 TL Type-S
$24,995
28,957 Nighthawk Black Pearl Automatic Piazza Acura of Ardmore
Ardmore PA, 19003-1305
(800) 797-8241

CPO
2008 TL Type-S
$25,985
33,959 MOROCCAN RED PEARL Automatic Acura of Ramsey
Ramsey NJ, 07446-2646
(201) 934-8200

CPO
2008 TL Type-S
$25,881
31,503 KINETIC BLUE PEARL Automatic Curry Acura
Scarsdale NY

CPO
2007 TL Type-S $24,985
23,984 SILVER MOON Automatic Acura of Ramsey
Ramsey NJ, 07446-2646
(201) 934-8200
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmyl
Ah, a helpful guy, my age, who obviously has loads of knowledge. Very nice to see!!
And not a single "dude" or "bro"!
Much appreciated........
Lol, it's a generational thing. Baby boomers will never embrace using the word "dude" like we Gen-X ers. The "bro" really annoys me though.
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by teckademics gtr
well bad news fellas car was clean and drove nice but the dealer diddnt wana budge on the price so we walked out mad but still walked out car was clean except for one little mark on the interior and a paint chipped front bumper that they were willing to fix but they did wana move on the price so we left
Are you open to other colors besides WDP? If so, look around and see if you can find other options that are "cleaner" but cheaper. If not, you'll know why. Most of the time, the cars are priced accordingly based on the shape they're in and WDPs and KBPs seem to command a premium over NBP and SSMs.
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 02:31 AM
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well seeing as you say white is right lol but yeah im serious on getting it in white and around 30k or under on the clock but when i seen a couple that have been sold for under 24k with like 24,000 miles i refuse to pay mor than that for a car with 30,000 miles you know? and plus this dealer told me that they got the car for 25,000 and selling for 27,900 and all they could do was take off 200 bucks off the sticker price i literally laughed in that guys face and left and he had the "balls" to say hope i diddnt waist your time when we drove two hours from CT to NJ and throwing more than half the cars price as a down payment...
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 04:02 AM
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Unless you really like the car, look elsewhere. Wouldn't spend a dime to buy a car from pricks like that.
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by teckademics gtr
dealer told me that they got the car for 25,000 and selling for 27,900 and all they could do was take off 200 bucks off the sticker price i literally laughed in that guys face and left and he had the "balls" to say hope i diddnt waist your time when we drove two hours from CT to NJ and throwing more than half the cars price as a down payment...
Some dealers suck. Fortunately my car had an aggressive price out of the gate so all of my haggling was getting my trade value up. I think I did ok but the reality for me was that this dealer had the car I wanted, in the color I wanted with a clean carfax and low miles--not to mention it was manual shift. I know just how rare they are so I jumped.
White Automatic TL-S's...there are a ton of them out there. You have plenty of options.
I guarantee you the dealer probably paid like 21 to 22k for that car on trade in or at auction hes just trying to make his months commission off of you. Throw a lowball offer out to them near the end of the month via email when their car is still sitting on the lot if you dont find something else. As a matter of fact---pick 5 cars you want off autotrader and throw them ALL a lowball offer. See who bites. Tel them you are working with many dealers and will buy whoever has the lowest price.
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by teckademics gtr
yeah im serious on getting it in white and around 30k or under on the clock
If you've been looking, that might be a tall order. Using the criteria listed, WDP, TL-S, A/T, <30,000 miles:
2008 $28,999 24,129, Bridgewater Acura (NJ)
2008 $26,000 21,500, private, Tampa, FL.
2008 $28,298 24,334, Hoehn Acura (CA)
2008 $27,999 13,000, private, Silverthorne, CO
2008 $27,999 24,103, Santa Monica Acura (CA)
2008 $25,988 22,765, All State Motors (Amboy, NJ)
Front End Accident

2007 $25,400 29,824, private, Racine, WI
2007 $24,995 28,629, All American Ford (Hackensack, NJ)
Body mods and base wheels
2007 $24,988 27,190, Scott Select (West Chester, PA)

Good luck
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by teckademics gtr
well seeing as you say white is right lol but yeah im serious on getting it in white and around 30k or under on the clock but when i seen a couple that have been sold for under 24k with like 24,000 miles i refuse to pay mor than that for a car with 30,000 miles you know? and plus this dealer told me that they got the car for 25,000 and selling for 27,900 and all they could do was take off 200 bucks off the sticker price i literally laughed in that guys face and left and he had the "balls" to say hope i diddnt waist your time when we drove two hours from CT to NJ and throwing more than half the cars price as a down payment...
Originally Posted by SDSilverM3
Unless you really like the car, look elsewhere. Wouldn't spend a dime to buy a car from pricks like that.
What am I missing? They were pricks because they wanted to sell their car for retail? And then said "I hope I didn't waste your time."? Last I checked, an '08 TL-S with ~ 25,000 miles had an NADA retail value of $27,450, and that doesn't account for any CPO expenses. Clean trade is $23,800.


I don't think it's a realistic goal to expect to find a certified, low mileage, perfectly mint '08 Type S for under 24k. It may happen, but don't expect to be tripping over deals like this.
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by anx1300c
What am I missing? They were pricks because they wanted to sell their car for retail? And then said "I hope I didn't waste your time."? Last I checked, an '08 TL-S with ~ 25,000 miles had an NADA retail value of $27,450, and that doesn't account for any CPO expenses. Clean trade is $23,800.


I don't think it's a realistic goal to expect to find a certified, low mileage, perfectly mint '08 Type S for under 24k. It may happen, but don't expect to be tripping over deals like this.
You're right in regards to the value of the car. I don't dispute the market value of the car based on the condition it is in and the mileage that it has based on my own recent search. Only the OP knows the true intention of the "I hope I didn't waste your time" comment since he was there and is the only one that can truly interpret the context in which it was used. It would be very condescending for the sales guy to say that knowing the OP drove 2 hours to look at the car. Obviously, it was a waste of time and there was no need to throw in that comment. It's called respect and if the sales people can't show their customers any, why spend your money there when there are plenty of other TL-Ss on the market?
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 12:44 PM
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ok honestly id like to see someone drive a clean good condition to a dealer and get offered 23,-24k for it every time ive seen a car traded in or traded one in my self it was a crazy low offer,one dealer tryed to say 5,000 for my cl type s when they were selling for 11 or 12k at the time. every car ive bought i got at least 3 or 4 grand off of the sticker price i may be young but ive had quite a few cars and dealt with a few dealers never have i been offered oh the best we can do is 200 bucks....really wipe my ass with that sir hope i diddnt waist your time \rant
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 02:11 PM
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You need to beat them into submission on any trade. It doesn't happen in five minutes. When I traded my Accord for my TL, their initial offer was 7k. NADA clean trade was $10,100. You could literally eat off the floor mats of that car. After two hours of laughing at them while they unsuccessfully tried to devalue my car, I got them up to $9900 and accepted it. The agreed upon price for the TL didn't change. They put new rear rotors and pads on it and put it on their lot for a few hundred over retail.

There's a very good chance these dealers paid 23k+ for these '08's. Then factor in a detail job, certification process, maybe brakes, tires, etc, and there you go.

Last edited by anx1300c; Mar 6, 2011 at 02:14 PM.
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Old Mar 6, 2011 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by anx1300c
Lol, it's a generational thing. Baby boomers will never embrace using the word "dude" like we Gen-X ers. The "bro" really annoys me though.
Yea, I will even throw out the occasional "dude", but "bro" is so douche-intensive......

In many of the posts above, remember: If you are "trading a car in", you are losing $$$$$. You will NEVER disrupt the "retail/wholesale/trade-in" dynamics that is the basis for car dealership economics. Sometimes you will do better than other times, but you are still ALWAYS leaving $$$ on the table. Dealers make the bulk of their $$$$ on trade ins, not on new car sales. And they know what they are doing....
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 12:44 PM
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i just gotta keep on looking i guess...
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 12:48 PM
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Remember, there are always better deals out there.
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 01:09 PM
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well i am hoping so it sure was nice during the test drive
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 09:41 PM
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About $3,000 to high and they need to throw in a 100,000 warranty.
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by chas22
About $3,000 to high and they need to throw in a 100,000 warranty.
THANKYOU,very true.
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 02:36 AM
  #31  
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just wanted to put this out there, i currently have 3 carfax reports left(bought 5), and will sell each for $6.
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 10:50 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by paperboy42190
just wanted to put this out there, i currently have 3 carfax reports left(bought 5), and will sell each for $6.
ok cool ill let you know if i need them,but most sites are giving free car fax reports from what ive been seeing.
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 11:57 AM
  #33  
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well im not having luck finding one i dont think im being that picky white with black interior auto....dealers get them in and they are sold before they can take them off the website ughhh i guess i gotta be paitent but mee wantt
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 07:13 PM
  #34  
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I know the feeling! I just recently traded in my 04 Accord for a 05 TL. I somehow fell into a pretty dang good deal on the trade in and TL price. Not the color that was my first choice (WDP) but ABP w/ camel interior has a nice luxurious feel too it with out feeling "old" haha!

I bought the accord 2 years ago, and have looking at TL's ever since, so the impatient feeling is all too familiar!
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 07:23 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Turbonut
If you've been looking, that might be a tall order. Using the criteria listed, WDP, TL-S, A/T, <30,000 miles:
2008 $28,999 24,129, Bridgewater Acura (NJ)
2008 $26,000 21,500, private, Tampa, FL.
2008 $28,298 24,334, Hoehn Acura (CA)
2008 $27,999 13,000, private, Silverthorne, CO
2008 $27,999 24,103, Santa Monica Acura (CA)
2008 $25,988 22,765, All State Motors (Amboy, NJ)
Front End Accident

2007 $25,400 29,824, private, Racine, WI
2007 $24,995 28,629, All American Ford (Hackensack, NJ)
Body mods and base wheels
2007 $24,988 27,190, Scott Select (West Chester, PA)

Good luck
ahem...that has already been sold...to me..last week
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 09:41 PM
  #36  
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Jealous!
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