I know this has been discussed many times and yeah I did search. Yet, I still feel a bit confused.

Some say switch after 7k, dealer says I can switch anytime, some say I don't even need to and then there are some that say I should try to leave the oil that came in the car since its the break in oil or what not.

I'm feeling lost. This car is new and still has the oil that came from factory. I recently bought a bunch of greddy gr-3's that should last me for awhile. Car has 40% oil life left on MID and almost at 3k miles.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Run the factory fill to around 4 or 5k.

You can switch at anytime to synthetic.

In almost every case, if you run plain old dino oil with an OE filter, the car will be fine for the time you own it.

For some extra protection and to help insure longest possible life, the synthetic should help.

 

make sure you use a good synthetic oil filter. mobil 1 seems to be a very popular choice on here. i personally use amsoil filter and oil(0w-20,100% synthetic). i live in a climate that gets really cold, so i opted for the 0w-20.Switch at anytime you want.

 

I think people stress too much on the oil brand, oil filters, and oil change intervals. If only we stressed over our diets and fitness the way we worry about our cars

As you know, Honda has a breakin oil with a high moly compound in it. If you wish to change the oil now, it's no big deal. If you want to supplement your new oil with additional moly, use Havoline High-Mileage or some other oil with high-Moly. That's what I did two years ago when I was in your shoes. I got my info then from BobIsTheOilGuy.com if you want any more details. I too couldn't relax on my first change and did it around 5K now I have a different and positive perspective about the MID.

In general, most people are not going to realize any benefit from changing oil at 3K intervals .vs. what the MID says. You might be doing the 4th owner of your car a favor possibly at 250K by extending the engine's life an additional 10K. But most of us (first) owners will not keep the car that long and you won't get much if any $ for doing 3K intervals- you really are throwing your money and time away. I used to change at 5k intervals before this car, now it's the MID at usually 7K using a Synthetic oil and a Purolator filter.

 

I would leave the break-in oil in there until the MID read <10 or less. Let the oil do it's thing. Then at that point change to the oil of your choice, either dino or synthetic. I prefer synthetic for more peace of mind since I go by the MID and change every 7K.

 

some manufactures come right from the factory with synthetic, so that should tell you anytime is a good time....

 

thats not true
high performance cars coming with synthetic are dyno tested at the factory and given break in miles

For cars like the TL, which comes with a special non-detergent oil, that allows wearing of the metal parts more than a standard dino oil or synth ,,,
you want that wear to establish the parts mating.
After 5000 miles go ahead and switch to whatever you want and change it every 5000-7500 miles
Mobil1 and K&N filters come down the same production line with minor differances

Mobil1 high mileage is the old full synthetic Mobil1
Plain Mobil1 is now a blended base
Have to read the label carefully for FULLY synthetic

 

thanks for the info guys.

I just happened to get this oil for really cheap since I was at the greddy warehouse cleaning up the place and I was a former employee there

I guess I shall wait til my MID says 10% of less. It's at 40 now.

thanks again for the help guys

 

BTW .. this is fully synthetic.

 

score!!

 

I've never heard of Greddy oil before...

 

I am going to a big Race show in a couple hours, I was thinking about getting synthetic oil there. I was considering ROYAL PURPLE. What weight should I get. I live where the temperature is from 20 below 0 to over 100 degrees in the summer. I guess 5w-20 would be best. I mainly want synthetic for how thin it stays when its below 0 here.

 

from my experience, royal purple sucks. If I was at the show, I would probably get MOTUL, Eneos Nippon Oil etc... then again, most people here use amsoil, castrol and mobil1.

0W - (−31 °F)
5W - (−22 °F)
10W - (−13 °F).

I would stick to 5w-20 or 5w30.

edit : the reason why I said RP sucks is because they were messing up all the Mitsubishi Turbochargers.