hello.
2005 tl manual.
engine after fully rebuild (rod bushing, rings, seals).
​​​​​​after 4000 miles everything was good.
codes - p0420, p0430.
few days ago - running - 65mph - engine go off. i start it again (running) and next i hear knocking noise. stopped.

looks like 6 knocks in second. After that i removed all spark plugs. Clean.
Next i removed fuel pump relay and made few quick starts engine.
first start i hear noise. second start it was again. but next times noise went out. bo any noise.
i removed bath heads covers. looks good.
i made leaks test for cylinders - 80psi, everything ok.
i changed catalytic converters.
i still did not start engine for real test, because i don't understand what it could be ?

 

note - removed fuel pump relay on the next day, so car was cold.

 

80 PSI in all the cylinders?? And you think that's OK?

 

what you mean ? 80psi its air compressor pressure what i use to check cylinders leaks.

tomorrow i will remove back cover to see connecting rods bearings, maybe something happens here ...

 

do compression check and see if there is any difference between pistons. Did you use an ebay or amazon timing belt kit? Check the belt make sure everything is lined up.

Did you do a valve adjustment? Why the rebuild? If you lost a lower end bearing then chances are metal were in the oil system and may have damaged a cam.

 

metal were in the oil ...
i used king bearings ...
rebuild was because 200k miles engine, i though it will be better way.
parts from rockauto. bearings from online store.
did valve adjustment.
tomorrow will check connecting rod bearings. i think it's it. but why ... i did everything correctly, step by step.

 

did you flush and clean out the oil pump and all the other bits of the engine during rebuild? Solenoid screens? heads? Oil pickup screen?

Any metal in the oil that stayed behind can end up causing havoc. Make sure you check the cams for any scoring. Did you check all clearances once you put it all together and it was ok? Does crank rotate easily with all the plugs out? Check your timing side also, sometimes during reassembly we can make mistakes.

 

1) yes, engine was fully detailed2) crankshaft was in ideal condition3) i checked clearances, everything were ok4) crankshaft rotate easily5) if timing belt had some mistake - would be cylinders leaks. engine before this moment worked perfectly.
i think it could be 1 connecting rod ... when it detonate we have a knock. so 6 knock per second ...

 

it was connecting rod bearing ... turned around ... cylinder number 5.
so ... normal size of journal was 2.1647. now 2.1520. so it 0.0127 extra clearance now before grinding ... 0.25 repair size bearing not usable (it's only 0.01 extra). so 0.5 repair size bearing usable, but i can't find any king or acl. rockauto propose enginetech 0.5mm oversized, but it's noname for me... so maybe someone know good parts with 0.5mm oversized ?

 

Available from overseas from King:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/40201808813...Cclp%3A2047675

 

yes, i saw this set, is it good ?
asked because i used CR6837XP, trimetal, i though it's the best... SM version is aluminum.

and i still really don't understand why it happened.
oil Castrol edge 5-w30.
when i removed oil filter it was full, so oil pump worked
connecting rod bearing fully in oil, so oil channels are clear
4000 miles without any problem in hot florida, so clearance was ok.
i am afraid that it might happen again if i do not find the problem.

 

It could have been a piece of debris that got pumped through the engine, or there is more damage to the crank than previously thought that needs to be polished/worked out. Was the area polished/cleaned and inspected before you got the bearings put in?

some good reading on Bi vs Tri:
https://www.3si.org/threads/tri-meta...uminum.459668/

By the way did you use new bolts for the con rod? If you reused the bolts they could have let off on some clamping pressure due to stretch and caused the spun bearing.

 

1) it was absolutely clear engine with oil burn (rings). i detailed all parts. i measured all journals and bores. everything was looking good after 200k.
2) i polished crankshaft manually by fabric and compound, so it was a mirror3) i reused bolts. when i removed it now they was tight same as other. but i will use new set for this new rebuild...

i read your info link info, thank you, will be testing aluminum...
​​

 

you can also try malhe:
https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/me...s/eb-20-18.pdf

see page 93 & 94, BOX 14.

They also have a lot of great info in the start of the PDF that might be good info.

 

thank you !

 

Does not sound like rod knock that sound is much much faster and louder, it sounds like you did not do your valve adjustment right.

I have 2005 with 215k compression 230psi average for reference.

 

Unfortunately, this type of rebuild never lasts. Your factory assembled engine would likely have gone another 100K miles.

If you find bad bearings, I would recommend swapping in a factory built, used junkyard engine with decent miles.

These engines don't need a rebuild at 200K. If something is wrong, you'd want to fix that specific item with parts from an Acura dealer, ideally.


The metal in the oil is a dead giveaway that something really bad went wrong.

But you can also check to see if maybe you have a bad timing belt tensioner. If the seal went bad, it would leak out its oil and go loose. Then you'd hear a rattling noise from the tensioner pulley hitting it.

 

it sounds like a BMW...