Sticky clutch
Sticky clutch
Hello, everyone first post here just got 2008 TL Type s 6-speed 212000km the clutch was fine yesterday when I go it but now the clutch stays down unless I pull it back and it doesn't go into gear. Also, it makes a weird grinding noise when I turn and accelerate.
I found that by replacing the clutch it fixed my sticky clutch.
others have found by replacing the master cylinder it fixed their sticky clutch.
for the grinding noise; perhaps the cv joint is shot
others have found by replacing the master cylinder it fixed their sticky clutch.
for the grinding noise; perhaps the cv joint is shot
Thank you for the reply, I don't think its the clutch because it wasn't slipping at all I am going to try bleeding it if that doesn't work then I will replace the slave cylinder, as for the axles the boots they are not open at all so maybe he inside dried up if not could it be the LSD?
our clutches are hydraulic and will readjust itself so that it doesnt slip, until one day it does slip really bad.
I bought my car at 30k miles, test drove fine....at 35k miles, I had to change the clutch...
and yes, I had the same symptoms as you....on a high RPM run, the clutch would get stuck at the bottom and I would have to push it in couple times to get it to come back up.
When I replaced the clutch, ALL those symptoms went away.
and yes, I tried bleeding it...I also tried taking out the slave cylinder valve, which didnt have any effect on my slipping clutch
the LSD is inside the transmission. it's a gear set. you can jack up your car and spin one front wheel to see if the other one spins in the opposite direction. if they spin in opposite direction, LSD is good.
aftermarket CV joints will make noises, specifically a grinding noise.
I bought my car at 30k miles, test drove fine....at 35k miles, I had to change the clutch...
and yes, I had the same symptoms as you....on a high RPM run, the clutch would get stuck at the bottom and I would have to push it in couple times to get it to come back up.
When I replaced the clutch, ALL those symptoms went away.
and yes, I tried bleeding it...I also tried taking out the slave cylinder valve, which didnt have any effect on my slipping clutch
the LSD is inside the transmission. it's a gear set. you can jack up your car and spin one front wheel to see if the other one spins in the opposite direction. if they spin in opposite direction, LSD is good.
aftermarket CV joints will make noises, specifically a grinding noise.
Last edited by justnspace; Aug 23, 2020 at 03:01 PM.
Okay so my LSD is good, I guess I will replace the axles and see, the clutch pedal is not coming back up by itself unless I pull it back and it's not going into gear, I jacked up the car to replicate the grinding noise and that didn't work, I loaded the suspension and that didn't do anything either. I've attached a video of the bottom of the transmission. how hard is it to do a clutch.
like stated; some people had luck with just changing the master cylinder...I had a shop change my clutch and when i saw my pressure plate, it was scored pretty bad from heat...meaning it was slipping. and once I had gotten the car back, NO MORE STICKY CLUTCH PEDAL.
Trending Topics
Are you out of fluid? Is there a leak? Maybe there's air in the system. Is your slave or master cylinder good?
Your problem is that pushing your pedal doesn't DISengage the clutch. That's the job of the hydraulics. Everything else is mechanical.
A broken mechanical part can cause the hydraulics to not work. Key is to search along the hydraulic system.
Your problem is that pushing your pedal doesn't DISengage the clutch. That's the job of the hydraulics. Everything else is mechanical.
A broken mechanical part can cause the hydraulics to not work. Key is to search along the hydraulic system.
Last edited by BROlando; Aug 23, 2020 at 09:54 PM.
Are you out of fluid? Is there a leak? Maybe there's air in the system. Is your slave or master cylinder good?
Your problem is that pushing your pedal doesn't DISengage the clutch. That's the job of the hydraulics. Everything else is mechanical.
A broken mechanical part can cause the hydraulics to not work. Key is to search along the hydraulic system.
Your problem is that pushing your pedal doesn't DISengage the clutch. That's the job of the hydraulics. Everything else is mechanical.
A broken mechanical part can cause the hydraulics to not work. Key is to search along the hydraulic system.
eventually, the clutch started to slip really bad in 5th and 6th gear, and thats when I decided to replace the clutch at 35k miles
The hydraulics release the clutch. You push the pedal and fluid forces the mechanical parts to release the clutch.
mechanical springs clamp the clutch when you let go of the clutch pedal. They force the fluid backward thru the system and the pedal comes back up.
So a slipping clutch is not being clamped enough to hold.
If an adjustment is incorrect or if a mechanical part is preventing the fluid from returning...then the hydraulics can also cause the clutch to always be partially disengaged at all times (kinda like driving with the pedal partially pressed).
Your clutch started slipping at an early age. But...hey...stuff happens.
OP has the opposite issue. He can't get into gear and the clutch isn't slipping. The pedal is dead (similar to what happens to the pedal when you open the bleeder and push the pedal).
Last edited by BROlando; Aug 24, 2020 at 10:28 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
loud_whispers
3G TL Problems & Fixes
2
Jan 5, 2006 12:28 PM








