Specs on stereo
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Specs on stereo
The search function is still not working properly so here goes:
Does anyone know the all the specs on the TL's stereo (speaker dimensions, especially depth)? I'm contemplating changing the speakers and amp. Crutchfield, which is pretty good, still doesn't have specs.
Does anyone know the all the specs on the TL's stereo (speaker dimensions, especially depth)? I'm contemplating changing the speakers and amp. Crutchfield, which is pretty good, still doesn't have specs.
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As anyone installed a DVD/CD changer in the trunk? And, if so, are there units that will play DVDs (not DVD-As) so that I can play DVD concert discs in 5.1?
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Originally Posted by TLover
The search function is still not working properly so here goes:
Does anyone know the all the specs on the TL's stereo (speaker dimensions, especially depth)? I'm contemplating changing the speakers and amp. Crutchfield, which is pretty good, still doesn't have specs.
Does anyone know the all the specs on the TL's stereo (speaker dimensions, especially depth)? I'm contemplating changing the speakers and amp. Crutchfield, which is pretty good, still doesn't have specs.
Many modern OEM systems play tricks with different impedances. (Most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms; some of the those in the TL may not be). The same holds true with what the factory amp can handle in terms of speaker impedance.
They also play games with the frequencies that are sent to various speakers. For example, the amp output for the OEM tweeters isn't sending the full audible frequency spectrum (20 Hz - 20KHz) to the tweeters. The same holds true for the sub and probably the same for the other ("full range"/single driver) speakers in the car as well.
I personally think that you'll be facing a nightmare if you attempt mixing and matching aftermarket car stereo components with OEM TL stereo components.
#6
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All you need to do is have a line out converter (LOC) installed and add a nice 4 channel amp. Let the center channel stay with the factory stuff. Make sure the L.O.C's voltage matches up to what the amp will accept. System will sound much better with aftermarket spkrs.
Peace!
Peace!
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Originally Posted by ComptechType-S
All you need to do is have a line out converter (LOC) installed and add a nice 4 channel amp. Let the center channel stay with the factory stuff. Make sure the L.O.C's voltage matches up to what the amp will accept. System will sound much better with aftermarket spkrs.
Peace!
Peace!
What do you connect the L.O.C to - the factory head unit?
What would power the sub and the tweeters?
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#8
Time to POWER UP!!
The factory stuff will still work as normal, the LOC will be installed by tapping into one of the front spkrs. It will give you a set of RCA's to run to you amp. You can do a combination of things with a good 4 channel amp. You can run your replacement front spkrs off the amp and bridge the rear channels for a sub or run new rear spkrs off the amp. You could always do 2 LOC's and arun 2 amps (one specifically for the subs).
There is a lot more detail to setting this up so make sure you have everything maped out before you get started.
Peace!
There is a lot more detail to setting this up so make sure you have everything maped out before you get started.
Peace!
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Originally Posted by zexi
Comptechtype-s if you are planning to due a Mod.. to the factory system please takes pictures and details so all can enjoy !
Thanks..
Thanks..
I'd butcher the whole system before I screwed with that.
Then again, maybe the climate control user interface works via the OEM stereo display as it does in my Accord, in which case I'd simply be thoroughly disgusted for dropping $35K on a car that needed a stereo (and shocks).
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