A-spec install done (2 hours)
03-01-2007, 08:12 PM
#1
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
A-spec install done (2 hours)
Took me and my friend with our jobs shop lift to do the entire kit. By far the confusing part was the rear bumper. The directions were off and wrong about drilling holes for those brackets. The easiest was the front lip then the sides and last the rear. I will post pics up this weekend. For those DIY's this is a great way to save lots of money and its important to have a friend help.
BTW I used some 3M double sided tape for the front and rear part of the kit. Any questions?
BTW I used some 3M double sided tape for the front and rear part of the kit. Any questions?
03-01-2007, 09:18 PM
#3
Safety Car
please write DIY for us... sometimes one DIY has more detail than another DIY... so noobs like me can have multiple DIY to save myself from making any severe mistakes
03-01-2007, 09:19 PM
#4
Instructor
Originally Posted by 04WDPSeDaN
Took me and my friend with our jobs shop lift to do the entire kit. By far the confusing part was the rear bumper. The directions were off and wrong about drilling holes for those brackets. The easiest was the front lip then the sides and last the rear. I will post pics up this weekend. For those DIY's this is a great way to save lots of money and its important to have a friend help.
BTW I used some 3M double sided tape for the front and rear part of the kit. Any questions?
BTW I used some 3M double sided tape for the front and rear part of the kit. Any questions?
boxstock
03-01-2007, 09:52 PM
#5
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Starters:
I didnt have any templates.
Solution:
The front lip stays on by itself and by doing so you can use a marker to mark up the 5 drill holes needed to complete the front
Gap problems:
None because I used more 3M double sided molding tape.
---------
Front install was simple, I put on the front lip without removing any protective film for the tape, marked my holes (Which are described which ones you need to drill in the DIY instructions) and then took off the lip and started drilling away. Once done I used some Prepsol on the front bumper where only the adhesive was going to stick to, taped the protective film strip (When you pull them once the lip is on) I taped them to the lip itself so that they don't get caught in between the lip and bumper while installing. Installed the lip, put on all the clips and screws needed and then at the end pulled the strips so that the double sided tape holds firm.
Sides weren't bad. Turn the wheel either side all the way. Remove all 4 screws on EACH of the inner lining of the wheel well (where the side pieces are) then get under the car and remove the 3 clips holding onto the side pieces and save them. Then pull from the edge of the kit and hold the bottem pieces firm and they will pop out but you need to slide the front half forward and the rear half towards the back bumper. You turn those plastic clips about 30 deg. counterclock wise and just pull them out. Transfer all clips except the 2 small ones that are already on the new kit, just make sure you take them out from the car before installing. After thats done and you transfered the clips over to the new kit you need to put both pieces together and assemble the side as one whole piece. They clip into each other. Just line it up and clip on the new entire piece. Then put back all 8 screws and 3 clips on each side.
Rear... Ugh hated this part.
Removing the rear bumper is exactly as said in the DIY instructions. Once rear bumer is off I would lightly clean the inside of it so you can see where the hell the marks are. Once you have done that use a marker and make a dot in the center of each cross type mark on the bumper. Proceed to drill the 4 holes. Do a test fit with the rear kit make sure the holes you made line up with everything else. Fast forward. Double sided tape on the rear kit, tape the protective film on the outside of the kit so it doesnt get caught between the bumper and kit while installing the new piece. Place the kit on and tighten up the 4 small screws used for the holes you made (Also in the kit with the brackets and stuff) IMPORTANT do not stick on the sides to the bumper yet! Throw the bumper on the car and start getting it back on really good. Then screw the top bolt in 1st on each cornor because once your bracket is on its pretty hard to get that that top bolt. Tighten the top bolt, then install the bracket, tighten that up, then proceed to do all the other clips under the car. Do not reinstall the old exhaust plastic shields. Pull the rest of the tape and hold the sides for a min or 2. Then walk away and your done.
I had this on a lift so I did remove all 4 wheels to get at the screws and drilling reasons. If you do not have a lift, then use some jack stands and work safe. I forgot to add to the front lip the brackets are simple, you use the same clip thats there, clip on the bracket and drill the bottem hole. All holes made are 6MM. I would buy some prepsol and 3M double sided molding tape.
Tools needed:
screw driver
flat head
drill with 6mm bit
10MM 1/4 rach. setup for those 4 bolts all together.
clip removal tool.
I didnt have any templates.
Solution:
The front lip stays on by itself and by doing so you can use a marker to mark up the 5 drill holes needed to complete the front
Gap problems:
None because I used more 3M double sided molding tape.
---------
Front install was simple, I put on the front lip without removing any protective film for the tape, marked my holes (Which are described which ones you need to drill in the DIY instructions) and then took off the lip and started drilling away. Once done I used some Prepsol on the front bumper where only the adhesive was going to stick to, taped the protective film strip (When you pull them once the lip is on) I taped them to the lip itself so that they don't get caught in between the lip and bumper while installing. Installed the lip, put on all the clips and screws needed and then at the end pulled the strips so that the double sided tape holds firm.
Sides weren't bad. Turn the wheel either side all the way. Remove all 4 screws on EACH of the inner lining of the wheel well (where the side pieces are) then get under the car and remove the 3 clips holding onto the side pieces and save them. Then pull from the edge of the kit and hold the bottem pieces firm and they will pop out but you need to slide the front half forward and the rear half towards the back bumper. You turn those plastic clips about 30 deg. counterclock wise and just pull them out. Transfer all clips except the 2 small ones that are already on the new kit, just make sure you take them out from the car before installing. After thats done and you transfered the clips over to the new kit you need to put both pieces together and assemble the side as one whole piece. They clip into each other. Just line it up and clip on the new entire piece. Then put back all 8 screws and 3 clips on each side.
Rear... Ugh hated this part.
Removing the rear bumper is exactly as said in the DIY instructions. Once rear bumer is off I would lightly clean the inside of it so you can see where the hell the marks are. Once you have done that use a marker and make a dot in the center of each cross type mark on the bumper. Proceed to drill the 4 holes. Do a test fit with the rear kit make sure the holes you made line up with everything else. Fast forward. Double sided tape on the rear kit, tape the protective film on the outside of the kit so it doesnt get caught between the bumper and kit while installing the new piece. Place the kit on and tighten up the 4 small screws used for the holes you made (Also in the kit with the brackets and stuff) IMPORTANT do not stick on the sides to the bumper yet! Throw the bumper on the car and start getting it back on really good. Then screw the top bolt in 1st on each cornor because once your bracket is on its pretty hard to get that that top bolt. Tighten the top bolt, then install the bracket, tighten that up, then proceed to do all the other clips under the car. Do not reinstall the old exhaust plastic shields. Pull the rest of the tape and hold the sides for a min or 2. Then walk away and your done.
I had this on a lift so I did remove all 4 wheels to get at the screws and drilling reasons. If you do not have a lift, then use some jack stands and work safe. I forgot to add to the front lip the brackets are simple, you use the same clip thats there, clip on the bracket and drill the bottem hole. All holes made are 6MM. I would buy some prepsol and 3M double sided molding tape.
Tools needed:
screw driver
flat head
drill with 6mm bit
10MM 1/4 rach. setup for those 4 bolts all together.
clip removal tool.
03-01-2007, 09:58 PM
#6
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
I forgot to mention for the rear bumper just use all the new clips and you may need to use 2 old ones. You do not need any of the bolts. I didnt need to install the 2 front plastic pieces for the font lip either. Don't waist you time on a lot of the things. If I knew about this I would have finished in an hour 1/2
03-01-2007, 10:20 PM
#7
Team SSM
Originally Posted by 04WDPSeDaN
Took me and my friend with our jobs shop lift to do the entire kit. By far the confusing part was the rear bumper. The directions were off and wrong about drilling holes for those brackets. The easiest was the front lip then the sides and last the rear. I will post pics up this weekend. For those DIY's this is a great way to save lots of money and its important to have a friend help.
BTW I used some 3M double sided tape for the front and rear part of the kit. Any questions?
BTW I used some 3M double sided tape for the front and rear part of the kit. Any questions?
I was wondering teh same exact thing about that hole that you drill into the side of the underbody spoiler (step # 7 & 8), right??? So we should ignore step 7 & 8 correct? I jsut ordered the rear and sides of the kit since i already have the front on. Hopefully installing it next week with a friend
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03-02-2007, 06:04 AM
#10
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Its raining like hell outside. I am in NJ, I will take pics tomorrow after I wash her. Today I am going to install my comptech springs and rear sway bar. Its been a tough week with install things on my car. Ive been staying after work 2 hours everyday getting things done. Bare with me another day.
As for the hole drilling its only in the front which are 5 holes to make, 3 on the front center and the 1 on each side for those brackets. As for the rear the only drilling Ive done was the 4 holes in the rear bumper and thats it! The instructions say to drill holes for the rear brackets but you dont need to. They fit without any drilling. I think it was either a different design in the old brackets and they must have redesigned them so you dont drill into anything.. I will take pics tomorrow! stay tuned.
As for the hole drilling its only in the front which are 5 holes to make, 3 on the front center and the 1 on each side for those brackets. As for the rear the only drilling Ive done was the 4 holes in the rear bumper and thats it! The instructions say to drill holes for the rear brackets but you dont need to. They fit without any drilling. I think it was either a different design in the old brackets and they must have redesigned them so you dont drill into anything.. I will take pics tomorrow! stay tuned.
03-02-2007, 12:14 PM
#11
Safety Car
I still think you need to drill those holes for the rear. This is what I wrote in a PM with SSMTL04:
Yes, you will need to drill that hole for both sides. BTW, Its a 10mm hole, not a 6mm hole. The hole is there so you can access one of the screws connecting the bracket later on. If you don't drill the hole, it will be difficult to remove the bumper later on. You'll see what I mean when you do it.
Originally Posted by datmrman
Originally Posted by SSMTL04
Another question for you....if you look at the instructions for the rear......steps 7 and 8 says to drill a 6mm hole...do we do this for both the left and right sides?
Also, if you could explain to me what this hole is for....i don't get why there should be a hole.
Also, if you could explain to me what this hole is for....i don't get why there should be a hole.
03-02-2007, 06:24 PM
#13
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
I don't own a shop I just work for a shop.
I didn't need to drill any holes for the rear bumper sides. Just the 4 in the center of the bumper. I will post up pics tomorrow.
I didn't need to drill any holes for the rear bumper sides. Just the 4 in the center of the bumper. I will post up pics tomorrow.
03-02-2007, 08:45 PM
#15
Originally Posted by 04WDPSeDaN
BTW I used some 3M double sided tape for the front and rear part of the kit. Any questions?
Hi. The 3M tape that you used, was it the exterior tape (weather proof) other members were talking about. According to other members, you need to put 2 layers of the tape to make up the thickness of the original tape. If you didn't use the 3M exterior tape, what tape did you used? Thanks!!
03-02-2007, 09:16 PM
#16
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Yes I did use 2 layers but due to the massive amount of rain we got here in NJ one side started to create a gap. I need to pull that side apart tomorrow and restick it. Again I will post pics Once I am done doing what I need to do.
03-02-2007, 11:18 PM
#17
Team SSM
Originally Posted by datmrman
I still think you need to drill those holes for the rear. This is what I wrote in a PM with SSMTL04:
Yep and I still agree with you that the hole needs to be drilled...makes sense because the bracket gets in the way of the top screw that connects the bumper on the side, so in order to get to that screw...you'll need to remove the bracket, which is why it says to drill the hole. I was just seeing if it was really necessary
03-03-2007, 07:11 AM
#18
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Ill take pics of the rear section so you can see what I mean.
03-03-2007, 01:52 PM
#20
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
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iTrader: (1)
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