Originally Posted by pohljm

Why?

Originally Posted by GKinColo08TL

My question exactly...why?

Originally Posted by GRY04_TL

So would you guys really not recommend going to single exit

Originally Posted by JTS97Z28

If we haven't already made that clear then I don't know what else to say. It would not look good, and I'm pretty sure an HKS muffler would make your TL sound pretty shitty. I just figure if your not willing to spend the money on a good exhaust system, then maybe just leave it alone because that's when people start skimping out and doing cheesy mods to their otherwise nice car.

Originally Posted by GRY04_TL

Okay I know what you mean, what exhaust would you recommend?

Originally Posted by JTS97Z28

Well I noticed you already have the stage exhaust mods which actually can get you some good sound if done right. Maybe try one of the aftermarket resonators like the dynomax or magnaflo as with just straight pipes in place of both the mid muffler and resonator might sound pretty bad I'm not sure. If your still not interested in the stage mods anyone of the aftermarket setups would be nice. I personally like RV6 true dual, or the xlr8, but obviously they will be pricey and I'm not sure what will fit on base TL.

Originally Posted by Noober

what is your current set up?

Originally Posted by JTS97Z28

Well I noticed you already have the stage exhaust mods which actually can get you some good sound if done right. Maybe try one of the aftermarket resonators like the dynomax or magnaflo as with just straight pipes in place of both the mid muffler and resonator might sound pretty bad I'm not sure. If your still not interested in the stage mods anyone of the aftermarket setups would be nice. I personally like RV6 true dual, or the xlr8, but obviously they will be pricey and I'm not sure what will fit on base TL.

Originally Posted by justnspace

a custom single exit would be the best performer but certainly the worst sounding.


and when i say custom, 3inch all the way back and skip the hks fart cannon

Originally Posted by GRY04_TL

So 3 inch from the cats and no muffler?

Originally Posted by Inaccurate

UPDATE

I GOT ANOTHER 98 POUNDS OFF OF THE CAR !!!!!
..........(this includes dynamic loss)

:gheywave::gheywave:




Weight Reduction Since Last Update
-----------------------------------------------
23.7 Lbs - Single 3" Exhaust System
12.0 Lbs - Shaved tires (2/32" thread depth)
10.3 Lbs - BC Racing Coilovers
1.9 Lbs - Rear diffuser plastic panel
1.8 Lbs - EGR Delete
0.6 Lbs - Plastic trim around tail pipes
--------------------------------------------
50.3 Lbs NET TOTAL REMOVED













CUSTOM 3" SINGLE EXHAUST






























The oem exhaust system (minus oem third cat and mid muffler) weighs 43.60 Lbs.

My custom 3" single exhaust system weighs 19.90 Lbs.

The weight reduction from the custom 3" single exhaust is 23.7 Lbs. Before attempting this mod, I had estimated that I could shed 25 pounds. So, I reached my goal for the most part.

The reason that I picked the exhaust as my next diet mod was because it hopefully offered a slight power increase along with the weight reduction. Plus with my previous exhaust, I was getting tired of the intense rasp at 3500-4500 rpm.

My new exhaust sounds identical to Sonnick's Open-Y videos (click here). Although, I don't have the cool popping and the mini backfires..... wish mine did. So if you wish to hear mine, please watch Sonnick's videos (except I have no cool popping). The reason that mine sounds identical is because it is the same engine and the same exhaust.... 3" tube with just one Magnaflow muffler. The difference is that his is the 30" version and mine is the 18" version of the same identical muffler. But this difference is probably balanced out by him having no tail pipe and I do.

I designed and built this system myself. I did not drive to a muffler shop, have them throw my car on a lift, and have them crush some bends and weld-up some spaghetti using their cheap and heavy pipes. No muffler shops for me.... I did all the work myself except for the actual welding (MIG/TIG). I cut the tubing myself and measured the angles (or created a makeshift jig) to position the pieces together for the welder. When I arrived at the welder shop, I assembled the pieces (and held them myself) while he welded it. It took three trips (one per day) to finish the system.

I had spent many, many days googling the 3" single exhaust. I was looking for people that had done 3" single exhaust in general and for the J engine in particular. I wish to thank Sonnick for sharing his experiences with his 3" single exhaust. Sonnick's post about his "open Y" experiment was very helpful to me because it was, in essence, what I had in mind for my new exhaust. Sonnick's videos were very helpful because the vids allowed me to hear how my new system would sound before I committed to it. And, obviously, I liked the sound of his open-y exhaust.

To me, my exhaust has no drone and no rasp. But, I am not sensitive to rasp. While maintaining a constant MPH (below 80 mph), it is not really any louder than my oem catback. But obviously the volume increases a lot as the throttle is opened. But at no time does my exhaust have drone or rasp (at least to me).

My exhaust was not cheap. It was actually very expensive.... so much so that I don't want to say. The thin walled 3" tubing was very, very expensive. It was my insisting on using 20 GA tubing that caused the new exhaust system to be so expensive. If I was willing to compromise and use 18 GA tubing, the cost would had been one half of the 20 GA system. But, if I had used the 18 GA tubing, the new exhaust system would had weighed 5 pounds more. The thin walled mandrel bends were super expensive too. The thin tubing is difficult to weld, requiring the welder to go slow. Thus, the welder got $300 for his services too. But, I am extremely happy with how it turned out. The final weight and exhaust sound was on target with my hopes. I would do it again if I had too.













As a side note, I originally had intended to use the larger (and it is LARGE...see pics above) 30" Magnaflow muffler #12641 (click here). I had purchased the 30" already. But, at the last minute, I decided to use the 18" size. The 30" is just too massive and heavy. I decided that I would rather risk being too loud than risk being too heavy.








PART NUMBERS (items pictured above)
Magnaflow Muffler PN #12649 (quantity = 1) (click here)
Burns Stainless Steel Mandrel Bend 90 Degrees (quantity = 2) (click here)
Burns Stainless Steel 3" Tubing (quantity = 10 ft.) (click here)
Burns Stainless Steel Transition (quantity = 1) (click here)




Below are some related links -

1) single exhaust (click here)
2) Diary of an EXHAUST Addict (click here)
3) DUAL Exhaust VS SINGLE Exhaust (click here)
4) Picked up 15 hp...find out how (click here)
5) thinking about single exhaust (click here)
6) 70mm (2.75") piping on J series? (click here)
7) 3 inch piping (click here)
8) 3 INCHES!?!?! (That's what she said) (click here)
9) custom 3" magnaflow exhaust installed (click here)
10) single vs. dual exhaust (click here)
11) Single-Exit HKS Exhaust Writeup (click here)
12) Video Clips! 6MT NA (click here)


For the links below, copy and paste these links into your browser. Remove the red X before submitting. Acurazine blocks these links. So, this is why I must disguise them with a red X.

1) www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7g-performance-discussion/210172-3-inch-2-5-inch.html

2) www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7th-generation-honda-accord-2003-2007/210729-magnaflow-exhaust-gurus-opinions-needed.html

3) www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7g-performance-discussion/209692-best-single-exhaust-setup.html

4) www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7g-performance-discussion/196600-my-dyno-vid-7th-gen-v6-6-speed-manual-245whp-211wtq-exhaust-no-cats.html

5) www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7g-performance-discussion/201030-opinions-custom-exhaust-idea.html

6) www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/6g-performance-discussion/209376-straight-pipes.html

7) www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7g-performance-discussion/209232-v6-accord-tsudo-76mm-single-exhaust.html
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SHAVED TIRES








Full thread tire weighs 21 Lbs.
Shaved tire weighs 18 Lbs.
Weight reduction (static) from shaved tires is 12 Lbs (3 Lbs x 4 tires).
Weight reduction (dynamic) from shaved tires is 60 Lbs (estimated).


Because I had been using Michelin PS2 tires already, my weight reduction calculations for this update are comparing the full thread tires (as my weight baseline) to the shaved tires.

The difficulty of a heavy wheel to get into motion (rotation) and to slow it's rotation speed is more commonly known as the Flywheel Effect. Then, there is the moment-of-inertia aspects to rotational mass. The further out from the axis that the mass is centered, the more flywheel effect the mass will have. With the shaved tires reducing the weight along the very outer diameter of the wheel, this produces big dynamic weight savings (reduced flywheel effect).

Based on the premise that each pound of rotational weight saved at wheel RPM (i.e. wheel weight) is worth 3 pounds of static body weight, weight reduction along the most outer diameter of the tire would yield much more of an improvement than the rims (pound per pound). I would estimate the factor to be maybe a 5 versus the factor of 3 for the rims.

Thus,

12.0 Lbs static weight reduction x 5 Factor = 60 Lbs Dynamic Weight Reduction.







In the pic above, you can see the shaved thread depth is level with the wear bar (2/32").

For several years now, I have purchased fuel each and every morning of my daily commute. I buy just enough fuel for that day's commute (3.0 gallons). Like I do with fuel, I will start doing this with my tires too. Running just enough rubber (thread depth) to last 12 months or less.

I purchased 2 tires shaved down to a 4/32" thread depth and 2 tires shaved down to a 2/32" thread depth (see pic above). The 4/32" tires go on the front and the 2/32" tires go on the rear. The front tires will have an operating range from 4/32" (when new) to 2/32" (when needing replacement). Whereas, the rear tires will always be 2/32" from new until replacement because my rear tires do not experience any wear. However, I will replace the rear tires once every two or three years due to hardening of the rubber (aging).

With these shaved tires, each of my front tires will be between 18.5 lbs when fresh and 18.0 lbs when needing replacement. For this update, I am basing my calculations on the weight of the fully worn tires. I am doing this to emphasize the fullest potential of the shaved tires.

Purchasing the shaved tires was very straightforward. I called Chad at TireRack (800-461-5527 ext 742). He did *not* try to give me a hard time regarding why needed, purpose for the shaved tires, type of vehicle being used on, type of racing that I do, etc. Instead, he was very friendly and just took my order with zero questions and zero comments. It was literally me telling him the brand, model, size, desired depth, address, and credit card. Then he said, "they will be at your door in one week." COOL!!!

It was a strange feeling to spend $1000 for new tires and to see four bald tires arrive at my doorstep. And, I most compliment my wife (again) for her being so loving of me and tolerant of my eccentric (and expensive) hobby. When I purchased the tires, I just told my wife that I needed new tires for my car. But at that time, I didn't tell her about having all of the rubber shaved off of them.

As I was drooling over the tires when they got delivered, she asked me why I was staring at those tires so much. I asked her if she noticed anything unusual with them. She looked at the shaved tires and say "no". I laughed and decided to tell her. As usual, she was happy that I was happy with my new toy.

During the past year, I have noticed my car becoming more quick. Enough so that I am convinced within myself (but not trying to convince the reader, just sharing my feelings) that it was from my tires wearing down. I had made no changes to my car during the times that I noticed these "improvements". I share this with you to help you understand my passion and willingness to spend $1000 for bald tires.

There are many reason for using shaved tires. One reason is based on aging of tires. Tires will become hard over time. Having shaved tires and replacing them often will maximize tire grip.

Besides the weight reduction, another benefit of shaved tires is reduced instability from squirm. I have always hated having new tires and the squirm they have under heavy braking. There is nothing more embarrassing that hot footing thru traffic, applying heavy brakes, and have my car squirm to the edge of my lane. This tends to make others around me very nervous, including me.

Another benefit of shaved tires (compared to full thread) is great steering responsiveness. I had got new coilovers too at the same time that I was getting new tires. So, there is no way that I wanted to destroy the new responsive suspension with new, tall, squeezy rubber thread. This would had been equivalent to "one step forward and two steps backward."

A small side benefit of shaved tires is that the tires appear slightly more wide.

A disadvantage of shaved tires is an increased tendency to hydroplane in wet weather. I am willing (and have been already) to make the compromise to drive below 60 MPH when the roads are damp. And, to drive even slower as the rain becomes more heavy.



Below are some related links -

TireRack - Shaving Tires for Competition (click here)
TireRack - Understanding the Benefits of Tire Shaving (click here)
Tire Shaving 101 (click here)
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BC RACING COILOVERS



















Each oem front damper weighs 12.22 Lbs. Each BC Racing front coilover weighs 9.72 Lbs. Weight reduction for two front dampers is 5.0 Lbs.

Each oem rear damper weighs 11.64 Lbs. Each BC Racing rear coilover weighs 9.00 Lbs. Weight reduction for two rear dampers is 5.3 Lbs.

Weight reduction from the four coilovers is 10.3 Lbs.



In the years past, I had resisted getting coilovers. I was happy with my lightweight car on the oem suspension. This happiness had been diminishing in the past year. After I installed RacingBrake ET500 brake pads and RacingBrake rotors, it is now so easy to brake hard that I do it on a regular basis now. But the side effect is the car has excessive nose pitch under hard braking. I hate nose pitching. When alternating between heavy braking and heavy throttle, the car will rock (pitch nose up, pitch nose down) to the point of being embarrassing, So, the day has come for the oem suspension to go. I am simply at the stage in my modding that I am asking too much from the oem suspension, even with my lightweight car.

And, of course, I was hoping to get a weight reduction from the coilovers. I was somewhat disappointed that the coilovers (all 4 combined) where just 10 pounds lighter. But, this is attributed to the oem pieces being fairly lightweight more so than the new coilovers being too heavy. I was aiming for a 20 pound reduction. But, I just remind myself of the coilover's primary purpose was for the handling improvement, which I am very satisfied with.

Please note that I am not interested in lowering my car per se. I have adjusted the coilovers to sit at oem height (distance from center cap to wheelwell arch). I based this decision on wanting the axle to be as level as possible to reduce mechanical inefficiency and to minimize CV joint wear. This distance is 14-1/2" from spindle to wheelwell arch. And not surprisingly, this 14-1/2" distance is also the oem ride height.

However, my car (wheelwell to ground distance) is dropped one inch from oem height in the front and 1/2 inch from oem height in the rear. I like a small amount of rake (having rear higher than front). This drop is due to the small diameter tires (and shaved threads). The typical TL sits at 26-1/2" Front & Rear. With my coilovers, I am sitting at 25-1/2" Front and 26" Rear.

Hopefully, my lightweight car will no longer look like a 4x4 truck. When I look at the car body (and not the wheel gap), I easily see that the car is lowered. That one inch drop from oem height does make a big difference. However, I still have a large wheel gap because of the small diameter tires. It would take more than a 2 inch drop from oem height to close my tire gap. And, I ain't about to do that. I am not interested in lowering my ride nor going slow to prevent scraping. I am interested in going fast. As such, my coilovers have been adjusted (including a custom, "unrecommended" setting) according to my handling goals.



Below are some related links -

BC Racing UK (click here)
BC Racing Superstore (Enjuku Racing) (click here)
BC Racing USA (click here)
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EGR DELETE










In the pic above, the scale is showing the weight in ounces. Converted to pounds, the EGR Valve weighs 1.8 Lbs.

Please see page 2 of this thread (click here) for details or to post comments regarding my EGR Delete.

Below is a related link. Copy and paste the link into your browser. Remove the red X before submitting. Acurazine blocks this link. So, this is why I must disguise it with a red X.

www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/showthread.php?t=195314
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BATTERY UPDATE







This is just an update on my small Braille (B14115) battery.

I have recently installed a new one (same model as before). This is the third small Braille (B14115) for me in the past 5 years. I replace it once every two years as preventative maintenance. My car is a daily driver and in these past 5 years the small Braille (B14115) battery has never failed me.













Thanks for allowing me to share my TL Diet with you !!!

Originally Posted by justnspace

ALl the information you ever wanted to know is here on the forums.

you just have to dig around for it.

Originally Posted by GRY04_TL

Thanks a lot man that is very helpful!! I am definitely going to look into that! Would it sound good if I did that with the 3 inch then put a HKS on it? Thanks!

Originally Posted by GRY04_TL

Thanks a lot man that is very helpful!! I am definitely going to look into that! Would it sound good if I did that with the 3 inch then put a HKS on it? Thanks!

Originally Posted by JTS97Z28

Duuuuuude, forget about the HKS muffler, this isn't a Civic lol. I would leave the rear mufflers alone. Either do the stage 1, 2, 3 mods, get an aftermarket cat back system, or leave the exhaust stock. IMO putting an HKS muffler on anything is just ruining it.

Originally Posted by justnspace

no.
it will sound horrible.

why are you dead set on a HKS fart cannon tube?


when you modify your car, you are going to have to trade off or compromise.
you cannot have your cake and eat it too.


either pick one......Single exhaust which provides the BEST power gains but sounds like PURE TRASH/GARBAGE


OR

build your exhaust for sound.
your gains will be reduced but your car will sound great.



there are better mufflers than HKS.
HKS is ricer stuff.
dont be a ricer.

Originally Posted by GRY04_TL

What about this though? Do you think this sounds good or no?https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=704394

Originally Posted by justnspace

we get it. you like it.
then buy it.

geez.

Originally Posted by justnspace

we get it. you like it.
then buy it.

geez.