got the seafoam "soaking in". Just added it to the gas and did the sip sip method. The car never died while doing the sip sip intake.

Going to let it sit, take it for a spin, then come back and change the plugs.


next on the list, maybe today or next week, engine and cabin filter change, and ATF change.

 

So i just got this seafoam and is it required to change plugs after the sip method? id really rather not have to do this damnit...

 

if your plugs have 100,000 miles on them its due for plugs, seafoam first then plug

If they have 50-75kmiles, they are fine to seafoam and go
the key is the blow out drive afterwards- getting heat into the system so crud goes out

If still afraid, do the gas tank method twice at 1 can to 8 gallons- just under half tank
That will do a good job- just not an instant job

 

i got a decent cloud of smoke when I took it for a drive on the first get up and go. after that, not much.

got front 3 plugs changed now moving onto the back 3.

 

Nice!

 

got all the plugs changed!

I cant thank this forum enough, with the DIY on seafoam and plug change this was a breeze to do today. I would say total time to seafoam and do the plug change (not counting the hours i let the car cool down after seafoam drive was done) was maybe 2 hours.

Great DIY's around here folks, THANKS!!!!

now time to wash up and take the ole TL for a spin!!!!

 

man, she is driving with a little extra jump now! worth the time and money big time.

 

No need for seafoam below 100,000 miles and even then it's questionable. If you've run on brand name top tier gas it's whole life, there should be no need for a fuel system cleaner....ever. Same with the sump. Reasonable intervals on a good oil, no need for a cleaner and if you do use a cleaner, don't use a solvent based one like Seafoam. An ester based cleaner is much, much safer.

 

I seafoamed my car at 90k miles, 9k of those miles which I had put on. And I must say, quite a bit of gunk came out. Then at 98k miles I seafoamed again, then changed my plugs I run only Shell gasoline, or Chevron. Not sure about the first owner though

 

I did not get much smoke out of seafoaming. just one cloud right at first take off, that was it.

changed the plugs, engine filter, cabing filter and oil change coming up.

I am the second owner. Have owned the car since the 48k mark, and no record of any maintenance on the car from previous owner.

 

smoke and seafoam are heat in the cat related
If you went inside for too long to write azine...that will lessen smoke

If you want to see smoke about halfway thru the process hold the rpm to 2000- its perfectly safe- now add seafoam at a larger flow rate than it will take at idle
after 30-60 seconds it will smoke the neighborhood
Does a nice blaster effect on crud too
ck www.seafoamsales.com tech section for many ways to do the job

noobs repeat in a month then good for a year
Make sure to run 1 can in just under half tank of gas to get the injector system cleaned

seafoam is low base grade oils iirc including ester --I found online article of `origins of seafoam` where oil company engineer made as carb deglazer for his own boats used in saltwater,, and has exact amounts of which 3 oils-
Originally tried to sell it as all purpose lube but no takers- market as cleaner and make millions for 50 years!
Its flammable -can be used as a starting fluid!
so it does burn with fuel, no more than 50 -50 mix though or engine stalls

with todays Ethanol 10 percent added gas, everything gets crudded up bad
it doesnt burn fully, leaves behind far more combustion byproduct and unburnt fuel residue.
Generally bad compared to the old MTBE added gas cars ran decent on and were made to run on!
Too bad it was contaminating the groundwater~

 

Would love to see a debate on the pro's/con's of seafoaming btwen IHC and 01tl4tl regarding Seafoam.

Seems that they take opposite sides of the fence on this one.

 

I think that has been done. Do a search and you may find it.......

 

It's been done, I've said my peace. I normally agree with him but this is one subject we're on completely opposite sides. It is important that people know the dangers of Seafoam especially in the crankcase and how unnecessary it is in 90% of the cars it's used in. I've pulled 100,000+ mile engines apart on newer gasoline and there's just not much carbon buildup at all. Nowhere close to enough to warrant a decarbonization. Ethanol burns cleaner and every car made is fuel injected. Combustion chamber carbon issues mostly went away with carburetors. Ethanol sucks for mpg but it does burn just the same as gasoline, no unburned fuel to worry about.

I won't get into the technical side, I've done it already and it's somewhere on here.

 

Thx. Didn't realize there was already a thread. Will go take a look at it.

 

Sorry i'm new here i want to seafoam my car too but not sure what u mean by plugs. can someone tell me how can i get the seafoam?

 

Plugs= spark plugs.
Seafoam can/should be found at your local automotive retailer. Autozone, Checkers/O'Riellys, NAPA, etc.

They reason why it is recommended to change your spark plugs after seafoaming is because doing Seafoam will pretty much kill the Spark plugs because of all of the carbon that will end up coating them. This is why its recommended to change out the spark plugs after doing Seafoam, so the best time to Seafoam would be when its time for new spark plugs.

 

Plugs= spark plugs.
Seafoam can/should be found at your local automotive retailer. Autozone, Checkers/O'Riellys, NAPA, etc.

They reason why it is recommended to change your spark plugs after seafoaming is because doing Seafoam will pretty much kill the Spark plugs because of all of the carbon that will end up coating them. This is why its recommended to change out the spark plugs after doing Seafoam, so the best time to Seafoam would be when its time for new spark plugs.

 

I am gen2 where most of us have more than 70kmiles on the plugs- so its worth changing them out anyway
Seafoam will NOT ruin plugs with good life in them- as long as they spark good, your afterdrive will burn off the stuff
if plugs are due...you are going to replace them

You have to really ignore all the instructions to have a problem

I am in favor of any product you choose- many brands used by many ziners with good results-- BG is popular, Redline in fuel tank is good stuff

Its not a real thread~ ihc and I have our opinions in many threads, he does actual motor teardowns while I am out of the biz formally
seeing a list of foam ingrediants may change his opine~
But its all in good fun between us-- as techs--

you people do your own research, pay 100 bucks for a shop to do it, or dont do it at all

 

If it is an ester based product I will change my opinion completely. I remember a thread on bitog where it was said to be solvent based. However, that was before I learned that the vast majority of the people on there don't know a whole lot so it could've been wrong. The thing is, most solvents are made to be used at idle for a few minutes while most ester based cleaners are designed to be run for a whole interval. But as you said it's all in good fun. I agree with just about everything else you say.