OK, I have been PM'ed enough to make a journal entry.

Many people ask about the type of coolant to use, and the longevity of its use. Let me address the first issue first:

1) Coolant. Honda uses a non-silicate formula. I have Honda engineering studies of the erosive effects of silicate particles in high velocity/high volume, aluminum-based cooling system. You will see cylinder heads that look a shark took a bite, water pump impellers that look like napalm victims. This is caused by owners and or clueless technicians using "good ol' green" conventional coolants. The parts were literally eaten away by erosion.

Ther are other excellent non-abrasive coolants. Perhaps the best and most widely used is the G-5 glysantin based formulations pioneered in Europe by BASF. Most of the German mfr's use these. The best domestic version is the Ford Premium Gold.

The thng is this - unless you flush every last bit of the Honda coolant, you run the risk of having a chemical reacttion in the low points of the cooling system that may lead to gelling. It is impossible to know which will or will not be compatible. Once this gelling occurs, flow can be affected, and when coolant flow is reduced in modern hi-velocity, fairly low capacity cooling system, your ar is at risk.

I do not see enough practical advantage to switch from Honda's formulations, which are further already filled with de-mineralized water, reducing another thing you have to buy. If you like to use reduced coolant for improved heat transfer (in very hot regions), you can titrate the Honda coolant as you see fit.

2) Longevity. The factory fill in my S2000 is 10 years. Ten years! I have no idea what Acura recommends, and really do not care. I would not feel comfortable going more than five, and will likely swap at 4 years. Especially with the original fill, there is no telling what might be floating around in your coolant, left over from seals, metal parts, and maybe a jacked-off assembler with a hangover who decides to relieve himself in the radiator.

Hope this helps.

RR.

 

Is there any benefits/problems with additives such as Red Line's Water Wetter?

 

Road Rage- you are a credit to this forum.... thanks for the information!

 

we need a place where his journals are all listed together

 

Great points RR - cheers to you!

Quote:

Originally Posted by TLover

Is there any benefits/problems with additives such as Red Line's Water Wetter?

Redline water-wetter increases the heat transfer rate of water in the cooling system. When water is mixed with coolant, it diminishes in its ability to cool. Pure water cools better than coolant. The coolant is only present to prevent freezing and boiling over. Water-wetter in pure water will increase the heat transfer rate of the water (cool better) and provide water pump lubrication/anti-corrosion benefits. When added to a traditional 50/50 mix, it helps a little, although not as much.



Bottom line – if your car is going to overheat, water-wetter mixed with your coolant will not keep you from getting stranded. If you like the idea of your motor running a few degrees cooler in traffic or returning to “thermostat-temperature” quickly after idling, by all means – use and enjoy.

Don

 

Thank you all for the kind words of support - it makes the effort more than worth it.

For now, just search on "The RR Journals:"

Regarding Water Wetter, I used to sell it, but have dropped off sales, as I was unable to get a good revelation of the ingredients from Red Line (and after 20 years with them to boot). Specifically, i was looking at the amount of phosphorous, which can be problematic in some of the modern coolants I discussed.

One thing that frequently happens is that the plastic overflow reservoir can turn very dark from oxidation - when i see external oxidation, and think of the effects of hot water cavitation in the hot points of the cylinder head jackets, I get concerned. When RR is concerned, he does not make recommendations. Use Water Wetter by your own choice and experience.

I have heard from one of my chemist buddies that adding a few drops of Dawn liquid detergent has the same effect of making the water "wetter" - essentially lessoning the surface tension i would guess, or acting as a surfactant.

 

IRT water wetter, Rage is right on. In older cars (I used it in old british cars -- MGs, TRs, AHs, etc) there was some advantage but newer cars with newer antifreeze (if flushed and replaced periodically) should never need it. I believe water wetter is a surfectant that allows the bubbles formed on the walls of the cooling system to strip away faster and thus increase the heat transfer capability of the coolant. In older british cars with notoriously poor cooling it helped in the summer but was a negative in real cold winters as the cars would not heat up to normal as rapidly if at all. But I have not used it in a few years. However, as Rage states it was initially designed for older antifreeze mixed to those specifications it may not be appropriate for newer cars unless it has been reformulated.
ATB,
Tom

 

I noticed when doing my 2nd oil change that my coolant level was a little low. Not realizing there was a difference in the amount of slicate particles among brands. I added a little Prestone 50/50 mix to the resevoir to just above the MIN line (Yes, I realize the manual says "Honda Only" but manuals ALWAYS tend to say "<INSERT OWN BRAND HERE> Only"). So the question is - should I preform a complete coolant system flush now using Honda coolant or just figure it wasn't that much coolant?

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...light=Journals

 

Road Rage - you have been on these forums Wayyyyyyy longer than I, but I have read most of your threads.... You have to be one of (if not THE) best submitters. You post great info that helps us all and take the time to answer questions after.

Just yesterday, I changed my tranny fluid to the GM Synchromesh FM based on your suggestion and it has made a world of difference in my '05 6MT (got to drive to a family even about 45 miles away today to test it out).

THANK YOU for your information and good attitude! I can guarantee I'm not the only one who appreciates your help.

BTW - you don't have to answer, but what is your background and what do you do?

 

always helpful, even when i was being a stubborn bitch about motor oil RR was polite and to the point, with evidence to back it up

 

Yes, everyone seems to come out with their OWN coolant, and special auto
transmission fluids also.
My last car was a VW passat, with special coolant, that would and does
gell up if you mix some other stuff with it.
I heard Jaguar also used a special coolant, we now have so many colors,
green, yellow, pink, orange, just to mention the ones i have seen lately!

VW also used special ATF, mineral oil for power steering (like Jaguar),
and a goofy 5w40 engine oil.

I wonder if there is a real reason they have all these special goofy fluids, or do
they just want to make it hard for people to do anything to their car.

own a Passat and go to pep boys, and you can not get the correct engine oil,
the correct coolant, or any power steering fluid or ATF.

Brett

 

Speaking of Rage...I haven't seen him on this forum for a while, I ought to send him an e-mail.

Very knowledgeable guy.

Mike

 

yup, jag's got their own stuff, at least thats what service dept. told me. after the 90k on the '98 XJR the beast blew a line and limped home with a low coolant warning. I called Jag to tell them, told me not to put water in it because of the mixture ratio...some bullshit like that. Anyway, not that it has any relevance to this forum, but water worked fine for two weeks until it went in for warranty....seems like a hose wasnt clamped all the way.

 

Thanks for all the great info, "Road Rage" and everyone else. I decided to just flush my entire system after mixing coolants just to be safe rather than sorry. $90 bucks - live and learn.

 

I'm a little confused how Prestone could be so obviously harmful. I don't have the Honda study but the negative effects sited sound more like cavitation than errosion.

 

Don't know who came up with the Prestone "negative effects" theory.

Any corrosion or any other cooling system issues that may arise are caused by poor cooling system maintenance 99% of the time, rather than the coolant. After the corrosion inhibitors wear out, the corrosion can set in and cause issues especially on Aluminum Block engines.

Point: Make sure the coolant system is maintained properly.

Mike