1. Should I do it sooner than what the owner manual says which is at 100K? My car is at 60K but it's turning 4 yrs old already. Does the belt wear out due to combination of mileage and age?

2. If I'm going to have the timing belts changed, is this everything I need or is there more?

timing belt
water pump
timing belt tension adjuster
timing belt idler bearing
timing belt tensioner (roller with bracket)
drive belt
front cam and crankshaft seals

I found this whole set on Ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...179828051&rd=1

 

If you tow a trailer, live in temperature extremes or similar severe duty, then 60k is the suggested miles
Normal driving= 105k miles
If you barely drive and have 7 years- do it on age

 

Had mine replaced at dealer where I purchased the car. For about 3 weeks or so I complained about a grinding noise and etc. after the replacement. According to him the grinding was normal. LMAO!!! Very experienced rookie out of APEX techincally school. Complained and treathend with a law suit due to the fact I had it done by another dealer with well experienced and educated tech. He took a listen to the noise and on the stop told me what was wrong and etc. Replaced it and noise is gone. Yes, it did get the money back and never will give them another penny.

Make sure you go to a good place. 120K highway and still great!!!! Main reason why I decided on an Acura. Had Nissians and Toyto with more miles and problems at that mileage. Cant wait for 4 gen.

What type of rotors are those on your avaitar? Brembos? They look gr8!

thanks

 

Thanks for the advice. I have a great mechanic whom I've always worked with. I can't stand the dealers they charge an arm and a leg.

The rotors are Rotora. I got them as a set (front and back) + ceramic pads from Excellerate. He's a vendor here in Azine.

You should look him up.

 

Which dealer(s) in NY ?

 

1. No, there really is no reason to change a timing belt early. And Yes the two factors in timing belt wear are engine rotations and time. The more rotations the more flexing of the belt and the fibers and rubber that make it up. Over time the oils in the rubber will slowly evaporate and the rubber will become harder. I've replaced ~20 timing belts on Honda/Acura's and have always replaced them at the indicated life (used to be 60K miles and 5 years) and the current Honda/Acura belts are good for 105K miles and 7 years.

2. That is a complete list, typically I do not replace the tensioner or idler pulley unless there is a bearing wear problem. I usually replace the timing belt and the water pump. I've never felt any problems with the tensioner (even the new hydralic style).

 

2. Oh forgot, you also do not need to replace the cam or crank seals (unless they are leaking). I've replaced timing belts on Honda's with 200K+ miles and those seals have always looked great. The seals on Honda's that tend to go with age are the oil pan and valve cover seals.

There was a problem a few years ago with the new tensioners that leaked out the oil inside. When I replaced my timing belt the tensioner did weep some of the hydraulic oil but it was extremely little. I did not replace mine since I recompressed it and waited a hour for any more leakage and saw none so I reinstalled it.


Drive belts (sepentine and power steering pump) I always replace.

 

Legend gives good advice here...

I always replace the tensioner and idler pulley too, but my past experiences with VW's has taught me to do so. It's cheap piece of mind to to go ahead an replace them while you have everything apart, rather than have one fail.

The key thing... That ebay auction is JUNK. OEM parts ONLY! This is the one maintenence action wher eyou should NOT skimp (well actually, you shouldn't skimp on any maintenece action), but especially this one. Failure of any one of those components listed could result in total engine replacement.

Only use OEM parts for anything timing belt related.

 

Couldn't agree more, use OEM parts only for belts, pulleys, tensioners, timing belts and water pumps!

 

.........................................

Remember, you're dealing with internal intregal moving engine parts, so don't skimp on this. One inferior grade part or 1 installation mistake and you could be looking at a repair bill that'll make your hair stand on end.

I would never use cheap aftermarket crap for such work, except mayyyyybe if I was about to sell the car.

 

Thank you, thank you for all the inputs. Much appreciated.

The water pump I believe is actually OEM. I checked it against AcuraOEMParts.com and it does say the same thing (the brand was mentioned too). I'll double check. The rest I dunno really.

 

Gates is fine as well. Many of the OE Honda timing belts are made by Gates.

 

I looked at that eBay ad and the Aisian water pump does look the same as the OEM pump I just replaced on my wife's Pilot (it was a Asian pump). The Pilot's timing belt was also a Bando (the J35 and J32 probably share the same pump and belt).

FWIW, if you change your own Honda/Acura timing belts I HIGHLY recommend this tool. I used recently to hold the crankshaft pulley on my wife's Pilot while I broke loose the crankshaft pulley bolt (they are put on at the factory extremely tight, multiple times over the 185ftlb spec). Excellent tool and yes can also be used on the 2G and 3G TL's.

http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-64879...6886968&sr=8-1

 

Yes, the crank pulley holder is a MUST.

Anyway, when you replace the timing belt, you should also replace the water pump and all drive belts.

If funds permit, also replace the tensioner, all seals, and do a complete valve adjustment.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA...6940QQtcZphoto

BTW, www.hondapartsdeals.com offers great prices on honda parts as well.