Replacing rear brakes?
#1
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Replacing rear brakes?
Hey guy's i tried searching and couldint find a DIY to replace the rear brake pads on my 04TL.Can anyone provide me with a link,Thanks in advance.
#2
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No link, but if it's anything like the 2G TL, then it's easy.
Pistons don't need to be turned while they are compressed. Just a regular c-clamp will do the trick.
Measure the rotor thickness and check for disc thickness variation. I recommend resurfacing or replacing the rotors to minimize noise, but it isn't 100% necessary. Be sure to lube the sliding areas with a synthetic brake caliper grease. Also apply a thin layer to the pad's back.
Always bed-in the pads for maximum brake torque, pad bite and noise reduction. A good guide is available on zeckhausen's site.
Pistons don't need to be turned while they are compressed. Just a regular c-clamp will do the trick.
Measure the rotor thickness and check for disc thickness variation. I recommend resurfacing or replacing the rotors to minimize noise, but it isn't 100% necessary. Be sure to lube the sliding areas with a synthetic brake caliper grease. Also apply a thin layer to the pad's back.
Always bed-in the pads for maximum brake torque, pad bite and noise reduction. A good guide is available on zeckhausen's site.
#3
Exact same as gen2 been there done it, - there should be something in the DIY sections.
There is a bolt holding the brake line- you need to remove that so the caliper has room to move free of the rotor.
You do want to remove the caliper from its bracket to grease the movement points, they are easy to see when you take it apart.
Flush your brake fluid- will give you better function and feel of the pedal
The rear rotors last longer than the fronts normally- since they only do 30 percent of the work- and they are relativly cheap to replace since they are solid basic rotors
Other thing to know- the parking brake is a mini set of drum brakes INSIDE the center hub of the rear rotors-
There is a bolt holding the brake line- you need to remove that so the caliper has room to move free of the rotor.
You do want to remove the caliper from its bracket to grease the movement points, they are easy to see when you take it apart.
Flush your brake fluid- will give you better function and feel of the pedal
The rear rotors last longer than the fronts normally- since they only do 30 percent of the work- and they are relativly cheap to replace since they are solid basic rotors
Other thing to know- the parking brake is a mini set of drum brakes INSIDE the center hub of the rear rotors-
#4
here is another good brake rotor and pad bedding instructions- and I helped write it
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
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Now, i bought Hawk HPS for the front Brembo's and OEM for the rear.Hawk recommends sanding the rotor with 130 grit sandpaper and cleaning it . Should i do that or you don't need too? i just want the best performance out of them so they wont squeak. Thanks in advance
#6
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Originally Posted by Alex22
Now, i bought Hawk HPS for the front Brembo's and OEM for the rear.Hawk recommends sanding the rotor with 130 grit sandpaper and cleaning it . Should i do that or you don't need too? i just want the best performance out of them so they wont squeak. Thanks in advance
Be sure to purchase some synthetic brake caliper grease (not disc brake quiet) and apply a thin layer to the back side of the HPS pads. Do NOT reuse the OE shims.
Clean all of the pad abutment clips (both sides), and also apply grease to both sides of the clip.
Bed-in the pads afterwards with these instructions: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
#7
sanding the rotors is to clean off old pad material residue on rotors that are still running true.
If you dont do that- the hawk pad material is incompatable with old stuff, and will let you know all the time about its discontent.
Clean rotor surfaces are needed to allow and establish a transfer layer of new pad material to the rotor- that makes them work way better and stay quiet.
For the Acura- I would 2nd the idea of a trip to quality work place- example NAPA- and have the rotors resurfaced. They may even be able to put a double crosshatch cut finish on them for you- that speeds pad bedding and grip.
Many shops can do the job- but a place that is a real machine shop with skilled techs and does hi quality work as normal practice... is worth a few dollars more than kragen
If you dont do that- the hawk pad material is incompatable with old stuff, and will let you know all the time about its discontent.
Clean rotor surfaces are needed to allow and establish a transfer layer of new pad material to the rotor- that makes them work way better and stay quiet.
For the Acura- I would 2nd the idea of a trip to quality work place- example NAPA- and have the rotors resurfaced. They may even be able to put a double crosshatch cut finish on them for you- that speeds pad bedding and grip.
Many shops can do the job- but a place that is a real machine shop with skilled techs and does hi quality work as normal practice... is worth a few dollars more than kragen
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In addition to the above, I also wash my rotors down with acetone right before installing the pads. Helps to clean off any grease/dirt residue. Basically the same as spraying it with break cleaner.
#9
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Originally Posted by Crysophylos
In addition to the above, I also wash my rotors down with acetone right before installing the pads. Helps to clean off any grease/dirt residue. Basically the same as spraying it with break cleaner.
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