I was just wondering if anyone uses a fluid extractor for their oil changes and transmission fluid changes. Has anyone tried this? If so, which fluid extractor did you use and recommend?

Thanks in advance!

 

I use gravity. Seems OK; it's always on and available, never gets lost and doesn't cost anything.

 

the trans has a plate to prevent entry by hose thru filler hole

You can put a quick drain on the engine oil plug if its difficult for you to work under the car

 

What about the transmission dipstick hole?

 

^,.you do know theres an oil and transmission bolt for this purpose?

 

yah gravity works for me!!

 

I do a gravity drain on this car, but for my old C230, I used a MityVac for the oil change. It's a great tool to have around... you can even get an attachment for vac-bleeding brakes. I think they're around $50 on Amazon.

 

Yeah I work with gravity. My buddy owns a shop so he lets me use his lift when he's slow.

 

Gravity
And I've been tipping the car over all these years.

Seriously OP I can't imagine those devices are worth it for simple oil and tranny fluid. I guess I can see for times there's no drain, or limited access, but not for the simple stuff.

 

Yeah, I can see how gravity is free and all, but I don't have access to a lift like Hapa and everyone keeps telling me how dangerous it is to get underneath a car (I'm more noob than anyone on this site). So I figured that this item would resolve the danger factor and the noob factor. Also, I want to ensure that good fluids are going in my car (espec the tranny fluid).

 

Car ramps are a way to eliminate a lift or jacks, and are quite safe. You may want new fluid going in, but you want to be certain that all of the old fluid, or at least as much as can be drained, out of the pan(s) before pouring in the new. A suction device cannot do this, at least with the engine oil as there will be sediment left in the pan, and with the trans fluid you'd want to remove the debris that has attached itself to the drain plug magnet before doing the fluid exchange.

 

Since this is someone not familiar with working on cars I figured I'd add that when you put it on ramps you need to put the car in park (or in 1st for a manual), set the ebrake, and it's best to use wheel chalks too just in case. I've known of a couple folks on the local Mustang forum that died underneath their cars due to unsafe practices. Some of them were not even new to working on cars, just careless or in a hurry.

 

Yeah, I forgot about the magnet aspect of the tranny fluid change... Good point.

Gah, I don't want to die like that. That's why I thought the fluid extractor was a good tool to have to decrease risk.

If I were to work underneath the car, I would use ramps, jack stands, wheel chocks, as well as the hydraulic jack... Is that a little overboard?

If I were to do the tranny fluid change, I would need to use four jack stands (read it from the DIY) in which case someone suggested to use the hydraulic jack as a backup as well as the wheels (take it off and place them around the jack points of the car).

All in all, I'm starting to think perhaps I'm just not made to be a DIYer since I'm so cautious. Stumbling upon this site though really motivated me (and extremely informative) to attempt.

 

getting 4 wheels in the air and on jacks is a risky proposition for just a fluid change
espcially if doing a multi change on trans fluid

ramps are easy and safe- have a buddy spot for you as you drive on

the jack is the last thing to trust- seal fails, thats it!
leaving pressure on the jack puts wear on it so let the car rest on the stands

 

the trans drain plug does have a magnet tip,
the engine oil does not, but you can get one at parts store, or there are mini magnets that fit in or on the filter to help catch any shavings
In reality- if there are metal shavings to be picked up in the engine oil- there is a major problem somewhere
In trans there will always be a small amount of captured shiny stuff, thats why they come with a magnet!

 

As you're concerned about the safety factor when working under the car, here's a thought that might decrease your anxiety. There are about 17,500 car accidents each day and about 115 people per day are killed in these accidents, so every time you get in your car you may become a statistic, but you don't drive because of that possibility.

Ramps and jack stands under the side rails and you'll be good to go.

 

Thank you for the advice and information! Ok, I won't lift the entire car up using four jack stands. If I have to do more tranny fluid changes, then I will. For brake fluid changes, is it still ok to use two jack stands? (Actually, I'm going to have to read/reread the DIY on that since I'm so noob...)Yes, ramps and jack stands. I'm back to being psyched to do this!

 

If you have the car up on ramps, the oil change is fine a the drain plug is at the rear, but for the trans fluid you'll probably only drain @ 2-2/12qts with only the front raised.
As far as bleeding the brakes:

Scroll down
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/brakes-caliper-o-h-pad-repl-hoses-bleed-disc-specs-park-brake-adj-3g-garage-d-041-a-578017/

 

im actually changing my oil and trans fluid this weekend. I'll take some pictures of the ramps i use and procedure. hopefully it'll help you in your quest.

 

Oh, that's all? Looks like I'll have to drain and fill like 5 times. :P Perhaps the brake bleeding procedure is beyond my noobness. Maybe I can ask to observe when I have my brakes serviced? That's awesome. Please do take some pictures. I truly appreciate all of the help!!!

 

a shop uses a power bleeder- wont help your education

If you ck the Meets section here on azine there may be a ziner near you to help with diy projects
2 people for brake bleeding OR a small vac bleeder $25 will work

ramps and stands? no- ramps and place a large wheel block device of some type so car cannot roll back off the ramps, even though when used properly there is a flat area for wheel and a ledge behind it on the ramp
Be extra careful cost nothing~

 

why would you do a drain and refill on the trans 5 times?
switching to some exotic trans fluid?

 

Absolutely, I will be using ramps, jack stands, and wheel chocks. Oh... Yeah... The power bleeder won't help me learn... I would be draining the tranny fluid 5 times because the car will be on a ramp so drainage won't be as thorough as if the entire car was lifted. Also Turbonut said that I might be able to drain a little over 2 qts with only the front of the car raised.

 

If he doesn't want to raise the rear to have the car level, he'll only get 2-2 1/2 qts on a drain, so..........

 

once again it must be a gen2 to 3 differance has me confused

My 01 has the trans drain at the rear, just like the oil, and drains 3.2 that way on ramps

When car is on ramps its often lower than using stands will allow
You really dont need stands with ramps, rolling is the concern so use a good wheel block- not loss of hydraulic pressure and crushing you

 

Is it safe to put the front (or rear) on ramps and then the opposite end on stands? Then atleast it's like having just one end of the car on the narrower footprint of the stands, and the other end on the wider footprint of the tires.

This is how I did my exhaust swap (ramps front, stands rear) and it seemed pretty safe at the time but in hind sight, i'm wondering if it was safe. I did jam rubber chocks on either side of the wheels when they were up on the ramps.

 

I did not know how hard you guys make changing the oil and transmission fluid so hard.

It isn't hard at all. Either a jack or ramps, then put jack stands or chalks, make sure e-brake is on. Almost 0% that it would faulter.

Just get a friend or family to help you out for the first time, or someone on AZ would be gladly to help you the first time for a couple of beers.

 

Drain plug side/front of trans on the 3G

 

ahhh the subtle differances- thanks for the info

what about using acura newer method they came up with for other models but should be able to use on TL
They left it on the lift and simulate the 5 minute drive by going thru the gears a few times and then do the next drain

In that case I would put all 4 in the air
The difficulty- at least on the gen3 I have worked on (lowered-aspec kit), is the potential unbalance as you lift and the car is not equal side to side weight, and getting the floor jack under the nose can be a real experience
I have lifted a gen3 on jackstands to do the brakes, iirc lift front first and place stands, then a few wood blocks on top of jack pad for extra lift, and use the rear lift point- there is a place in the car centerline

my safety caveat:
always have a friend with phone, who knows the address you are at! (cell phones dont tell 911 your location- home phones do)

Its really not that big a deal but the first few times are unnerving
Always work slowly and be sure locks are engaged, use wheel blocks on both sides of a wheel not being raised

 

ok so i did my fluid change this morning and it wasnt all that hard.
I borrowed my friends ramps but, instead went to my brothers shop to use his lift.

I placed the car on the lift and before raising I did the following:

1. opened and placed aside the oil cap.
2. Loosened the transmission fluid fill bolt. If you have a drop light, shine it right underneath, what looks like a fuse box right behind the intake hose. It was a17 or 18mm bolt with a blue line marked across it. To remove this bolt was the most difficult part. I used two 12in 3/8 extensions just to reach in there. I then took a copper pipe and slipped it onto the handle of the wrench and turned so hard I thought I broke the fill bolt. In fact, I didnt. This must of been the first time the bolt has been removed.
3. I then raised the car and proceeded to loosen the oil pan bolt. - The bolt faces the rear of the car. On the oil pan it says Engine Oil and points towards it. I used a 17mm open end wrench ( the end with the circle part)

4. To gain access to the transmission drain bolt you have to remove a panel first. Its close to the left front tire. There are 4 pushpin screws and one 10mm bolt which is at the front of the panel. Remove the bolt and push screws. The panel wont completely come off but enough to gain access to the bolt.

5. For the bolt, you can use the end of a 3/8 rachet. The bolt faces the left front rear of the tire and has a blue marking to it.

Let it drain for a few minutes and refill fluids. I used 3 entire quarts of ATF fluid ( I bought it at Honda this morning, its a bit cheaper but the same exact thing as Acura ATF ) and i believe 4 quarts of oil.

Ohh and the oil filter is located by the right front tire. Its right above the lower control arm. I used a mobil 1-110 filter and 5w-20 synthetic oil

 

Happy Independence day! Purchase the MityVac 7201 today from a local hardware shop and finished the oil change in 30mins. The Vac extracted 4quarts and the dispensing option made it a breeze to empty. As for the oil filter, I rotated the wheels to the right(on cardboard) and loosened the filter using a ziploc bag and a oil pan to catch drips as a safety net. Very little oil drained after removing the filter which was very surprising. Replaced oil filter with a Bosch Distance Plus and refilled with Mobil 1 Synthetic. My first oil change was painless and best of all no mess.

Mityvac:$110
Mobil 1 5qt Syn:$26
Bosch Distance Plus filter:$13
Drip pan, gloves and Oil Recycle tank:$10
Vs.
Cost for one oil change (full synthetic) @ the shop:$75