Received a new motor today... what do you think.
11-02-2009, 07:08 PM
#1
Received a new motor today... what do you think.
I bought this motor off ebay.. I had about 5 phone calls with the seller asking for details about what was included and what was not. The picture posted on the ebay add looked good, and it was listed as a 4,000 mile motor ( I have the vin number im waiting on a carfax to confirm).
Listed on the ebay auction. FOR SALE ENGINE ONLY, NO COMPONETS OR WIRE HARNES. I asked the seller to define no componets, he told me to alternator, powersteering no ac compressor. I asked if the injectors were include, he said no. I asked if the intake manifold and tb were included he said yes. I asked if i was going to receive the complete motor oil pan to intake manifold, he said yes. I verified the condition of the motor, and the seller said, "it is a 4,000 mile motor, it is in oustanding condtion".
This is what i received today.. Im very dissapointed. The motor was shipped on a pallet laying on its side, not so bad but the top aluminum cover was broken, and the oil filter crushed. It looks very dirty. My motor has 50k on it and looks in way better condition. The whole timing side was missing, no timing belt, no timing gear, no covers, the idler pullys and tensionr pullys did not even spin. The throttle body was not present. There was sawdust type material inside the thermostat housing. I paid near $1000 for this motor.
Should i send the motor back and take the $300 loss for shipping and charge it back on a credit card and getmy money back. Or should i keep the motor and maybe part it out.
I pulled the vc off and it looks clean inside, but i dont know.
here are the pictures.
Listed on the ebay auction. FOR SALE ENGINE ONLY, NO COMPONETS OR WIRE HARNES. I asked the seller to define no componets, he told me to alternator, powersteering no ac compressor. I asked if the injectors were include, he said no. I asked if the intake manifold and tb were included he said yes. I asked if i was going to receive the complete motor oil pan to intake manifold, he said yes. I verified the condition of the motor, and the seller said, "it is a 4,000 mile motor, it is in oustanding condtion".
This is what i received today.. Im very dissapointed. The motor was shipped on a pallet laying on its side, not so bad but the top aluminum cover was broken, and the oil filter crushed. It looks very dirty. My motor has 50k on it and looks in way better condition. The whole timing side was missing, no timing belt, no timing gear, no covers, the idler pullys and tensionr pullys did not even spin. The throttle body was not present. There was sawdust type material inside the thermostat housing. I paid near $1000 for this motor.
Should i send the motor back and take the $300 loss for shipping and charge it back on a credit card and getmy money back. Or should i keep the motor and maybe part it out.
I pulled the vc off and it looks clean inside, but i dont know.
here are the pictures.
11-02-2009, 07:22 PM
#4
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Run it, I've bought motors for my old CRX that were WAY worse that ran great. The best one I got was one that came out of a car that had burnt to the ground. Chiseled off all the melted plastic and rubber, and it ran great!
Neal
Neal
11-02-2009, 07:24 PM
#5
Senior Moderator
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There was a thread a few weeks back by another AZ member who bought the transmission. Looks/sounds like the same seller.
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11-02-2009, 08:38 PM
#8
Yea thats exactly what i thought. I pulled the vc,and it looks great inside the head. I had a carfax done on the vin plate thats on the block, and last reported milage was like 3,800 in the middle of 09. Im kinda torn on what to do now. If i send it back i will be out the money in return shipping. I think i can buy and replace whats missing for < $300 an dthen use what i can off my factory motor.
11-02-2009, 09:12 PM
#9
x2
yeah that looks like it has way more mileage then said, some of the dirt might be from it sitting, but that's way too much filth for it be just sitting
and why would they strip such a new motor so much
when you could sell it as a basically new complete motor
the motor laying on it side is allright (not the best though, but ok), also the tranny being seperate is kinda normal, you dont replace the tranny when the motor or vice versa
but yeah the motor looks trashed, i would proably send it back
yeah that looks like it has way more mileage then said, some of the dirt might be from it sitting, but that's way too much filth for it be just sitting
and why would they strip such a new motor so much
when you could sell it as a basically new complete motorthe motor laying on it side is allright (not the best though, but ok), also the tranny being seperate is kinda normal, you dont replace the tranny when the motor or vice versa
but yeah the motor looks trashed, i would proably send it back
11-02-2009, 10:12 PM
#10
Nikon Neck Beard Krew
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Man i just read that EBAY was 100% legit the other day....
I really hope that my check from my Nigerian Banker friend clears soon.
I really hope that my check from my Nigerian Banker friend clears soon.
Last edited by sT04Louis; 11-02-2009 at 10:14 PM.
11-03-2009, 12:00 AM
#11
^^^damn.
Oil filter is not a big deal since I'm sure you were going to replace it anyways. There are a couple of clues that I see from the pictures. First, that is not a TL intake manifold. It looks like an accord engine. Is that what you bought? That would mean you have a 3.0L instead of a 3.2L.
Second, the timing belt is missing. The only reason for this is if it jumped teeth, broke the belt, or was over-reved. In anycase the valves would be bent.
Before sending it back, make sure...
1)You got a TL motor and not an Accord motor.
2)Take off the valve covers and inspect the valves. You would see if they're bent. And maybe use a ratchet and socket to rotate the cam at the cam gear to see how everything is moving down there.
3)Do a compression test. The valve covers would have to be off so you can make sure the valves are closed. This is difficult without the timing belt but it is possible. You can tell they are closed if you blow compressed air into the spark plug hole and can no longer hear the air coming out. This is also a chance to do a poor man's leakdown test too. Get a piece of tissue and hold it over each valve with the air going. The tissue will move cause it's being hit by the air coming from the valve. Once the tissue stops moving and no air can be felt then you know that valve seals. In the compression stroke all the valves for that cylinder should seal. If it doesn't seem that you can quite get all 4 to seal at the same time then you have a bent valve. And if you have a bent valve then there is no point to continue with the compression test cause it won't have any due to leaky valves. Then move onto the next cylinder and repeat. (You'll need a crank bolt so you can turn the engine over again and again with a socket and breaker bar. It would need to be turned over 2 or 3 times to show compression.)
4)If all that turns out ok then flip the motor over and take off the oil pan. Check to see if there is anything strange in there. Anything other than super fine metal shavings is bad. And this should be non existant on a 4k mile motor.
If even one of those tests turns out hinky then I would send the motor back.
Oil filter is not a big deal since I'm sure you were going to replace it anyways. There are a couple of clues that I see from the pictures. First, that is not a TL intake manifold. It looks like an accord engine. Is that what you bought? That would mean you have a 3.0L instead of a 3.2L.
Second, the timing belt is missing. The only reason for this is if it jumped teeth, broke the belt, or was over-reved. In anycase the valves would be bent.
Before sending it back, make sure...
1)You got a TL motor and not an Accord motor.
2)Take off the valve covers and inspect the valves. You would see if they're bent. And maybe use a ratchet and socket to rotate the cam at the cam gear to see how everything is moving down there.
3)Do a compression test. The valve covers would have to be off so you can make sure the valves are closed. This is difficult without the timing belt but it is possible. You can tell they are closed if you blow compressed air into the spark plug hole and can no longer hear the air coming out. This is also a chance to do a poor man's leakdown test too. Get a piece of tissue and hold it over each valve with the air going. The tissue will move cause it's being hit by the air coming from the valve. Once the tissue stops moving and no air can be felt then you know that valve seals. In the compression stroke all the valves for that cylinder should seal. If it doesn't seem that you can quite get all 4 to seal at the same time then you have a bent valve. And if you have a bent valve then there is no point to continue with the compression test cause it won't have any due to leaky valves. Then move onto the next cylinder and repeat. (You'll need a crank bolt so you can turn the engine over again and again with a socket and breaker bar. It would need to be turned over 2 or 3 times to show compression.)
4)If all that turns out ok then flip the motor over and take off the oil pan. Check to see if there is anything strange in there. Anything other than super fine metal shavings is bad. And this should be non existant on a 4k mile motor.
If even one of those tests turns out hinky then I would send the motor back.
11-03-2009, 05:26 AM
#13
Sorry to say, from appearance, it looks terrible and I would certainly be dissapointed, but in the same token I'd certainly would have investigated before having it shipped. I guess that's what to be expected for $1000. When the VC was pulled, the engine should look brand, head surface, springs, etc. I'd certainly contact the seller and send it back. I'd try and stick him for the shipping also, but better to be out $300, then exchange the needed parts, install, and then find that the engine is kaput. Is there a warranty that came with the motor? Could have been sitting around for years and over time, stripped parts that were needed off the engine.
11-03-2009, 05:46 AM
#14
Thanks for all the replies. This engine is a j35a8 08 TL type s engine. I thought the intake manifold cover looked a little strange, but my old motor is a 3.2 so i wasnt sure what its supposed to look like. Im going to contact the shipping company i received the motor to and see if i can refues delivery on the motor, and have it sent back to him with out paying for shipping, or have them collect payment in order for him to get it back.
I have a compression and leakdown tester. I could probably go by a timing belt, lower crank gear, and tensioner (if thye need replaced) slap it on and do a leak down test. when i pulled the valve cover it looked immaculate inside, I just dont kno wwhy they outside would look so horible.
I have a compression and leakdown tester. I could probably go by a timing belt, lower crank gear, and tensioner (if thye need replaced) slap it on and do a leak down test. when i pulled the valve cover it looked immaculate inside, I just dont kno wwhy they outside would look so horible.
11-03-2009, 06:38 AM
#15
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Sure, but I thought you would remember this since you posted in the thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/just-bought-3-5-type-engine-ebay-what-now-747258/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/just-bought-3-5-type-engine-ebay-what-now-747258/
11-03-2009, 06:44 AM
#16
Thanks for all the replies. This engine is a j35a8 08 TL type s engine. I thought the intake manifold cover looked a little strange, but my old motor is a 3.2 so i wasnt sure what its supposed to look like. Im going to contact the shipping company i received the motor to and see if i can refues delivery on the motor, and have it sent back to him with out paying for shipping, or have them collect payment in order for him to get it back.
Didn't realize it was an '08, but why would the injectors, covers etc. be removed when the picture shows the complete engine still in the car?
11-03-2009, 06:47 AM
#17
Burning Brakes
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Almost looks like soot from a fire or wreck.
Regardless, ebay/Paypal has a return policy that protects the buyer against receiving misrepresented goods. If you discover that the engine isn't what the seller had stated in the auction, then they have to refund you.
Regardless, ebay/Paypal has a return policy that protects the buyer against receiving misrepresented goods. If you discover that the engine isn't what the seller had stated in the auction, then they have to refund you.
11-03-2009, 09:00 AM
#18
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
^^^damn.
Oil filter is not a big deal since I'm sure you were going to replace it anyways. There are a couple of clues that I see from the pictures. First, that is not a TL intake manifold. It looks like an accord engine. Is that what you bought? That would mean you have a 3.0L instead of a 3.2L.
Second, the timing belt is missing. The only reason for this is if it jumped teeth, broke the belt, or was over-reved. In anycase the valves would be bent.
Before sending it back, make sure...
1)You got a TL motor and not an Accord motor.
2)Take off the valve covers and inspect the valves. You would see if they're bent. And maybe use a ratchet and socket to rotate the cam at the cam gear to see how everything is moving down there.
3)Do a compression test. The valve covers would have to be off so you can make sure the valves are closed. This is difficult without the timing belt but it is possible. You can tell they are closed if you blow compressed air into the spark plug hole and can no longer hear the air coming out. This is also a chance to do a poor man's leakdown test too. Get a piece of tissue and hold it over each valve with the air going. The tissue will move cause it's being hit by the air coming from the valve. Once the tissue stops moving and no air can be felt then you know that valve seals. In the compression stroke all the valves for that cylinder should seal. If it doesn't seem that you can quite get all 4 to seal at the same time then you have a bent valve. And if you have a bent valve then there is no point to continue with the compression test cause it won't have any due to leaky valves. Then move onto the next cylinder and repeat. (You'll need a crank bolt so you can turn the engine over again and again with a socket and breaker bar. It would need to be turned over 2 or 3 times to show compression.)
4)If all that turns out ok then flip the motor over and take off the oil pan. Check to see if there is anything strange in there. Anything other than super fine metal shavings is bad. And this should be non existant on a 4k mile motor.
If even one of those tests turns out hinky then I would send the motor back.
Oil filter is not a big deal since I'm sure you were going to replace it anyways. There are a couple of clues that I see from the pictures. First, that is not a TL intake manifold. It looks like an accord engine. Is that what you bought? That would mean you have a 3.0L instead of a 3.2L.
Second, the timing belt is missing. The only reason for this is if it jumped teeth, broke the belt, or was over-reved. In anycase the valves would be bent.
Before sending it back, make sure...
1)You got a TL motor and not an Accord motor.
2)Take off the valve covers and inspect the valves. You would see if they're bent. And maybe use a ratchet and socket to rotate the cam at the cam gear to see how everything is moving down there.
3)Do a compression test. The valve covers would have to be off so you can make sure the valves are closed. This is difficult without the timing belt but it is possible. You can tell they are closed if you blow compressed air into the spark plug hole and can no longer hear the air coming out. This is also a chance to do a poor man's leakdown test too. Get a piece of tissue and hold it over each valve with the air going. The tissue will move cause it's being hit by the air coming from the valve. Once the tissue stops moving and no air can be felt then you know that valve seals. In the compression stroke all the valves for that cylinder should seal. If it doesn't seem that you can quite get all 4 to seal at the same time then you have a bent valve. And if you have a bent valve then there is no point to continue with the compression test cause it won't have any due to leaky valves. Then move onto the next cylinder and repeat. (You'll need a crank bolt so you can turn the engine over again and again with a socket and breaker bar. It would need to be turned over 2 or 3 times to show compression.)
4)If all that turns out ok then flip the motor over and take off the oil pan. Check to see if there is anything strange in there. Anything other than super fine metal shavings is bad. And this should be non existant on a 4k mile motor.
If even one of those tests turns out hinky then I would send the motor back.
11-03-2009, 10:00 AM
#20
That looks like 4000 miles to me..................being draged down a river that is!
You can tell there was some sort of catastrophic failure because of all the black soot inside what would have been the timing cover. This means the belt snaped and shredded into dust inside there.
BTW: You cannot do a proper leak-down test without the engine being up to operating temp. Also, you won't be able to spin the cams or crank wihtout hooking up the timing belt cause the pistons will hit the valves. Skip all that and just send it back...
You can tell there was some sort of catastrophic failure because of all the black soot inside what would have been the timing cover. This means the belt snaped and shredded into dust inside there.
BTW: You cannot do a proper leak-down test without the engine being up to operating temp. Also, you won't be able to spin the cams or crank wihtout hooking up the timing belt cause the pistons will hit the valves. Skip all that and just send it back...
11-03-2009, 10:22 AM
#21
^^^damn.
Oil filter is not a big deal since I'm sure you were going to replace it anyways. There are a couple of clues that I see from the pictures. First, that is not a TL intake manifold. It looks like an accord engine. Is that what you bought? That would mean you have a 3.0L instead of a 3.2L.
Second, the timing belt is missing. The only reason for this is if it jumped teeth, broke the belt, or was over-reved. In anycase the valves would be bent.
Before sending it back, make sure...
1)You got a TL motor and not an Accord motor.
2)Take off the valve covers and inspect the valves. You would see if they're bent. And maybe use a ratchet and socket to rotate the cam at the cam gear to see how everything is moving down there.
3)Do a compression test. The valve covers would have to be off so you can make sure the valves are closed. This is difficult without the timing belt but it is possible. You can tell they are closed if you blow compressed air into the spark plug hole and can no longer hear the air coming out. This is also a chance to do a poor man's leakdown test too. Get a piece of tissue and hold it over each valve with the air going. The tissue will move cause it's being hit by the air coming from the valve. Once the tissue stops moving and no air can be felt then you know that valve seals. In the compression stroke all the valves for that cylinder should seal. If it doesn't seem that you can quite get all 4 to seal at the same time then you have a bent valve. And if you have a bent valve then there is no point to continue with the compression test cause it won't have any due to leaky valves. Then move onto the next cylinder and repeat. (You'll need a crank bolt so you can turn the engine over again and again with a socket and breaker bar. It would need to be turned over 2 or 3 times to show compression.)
4)If all that turns out ok then flip the motor over and take off the oil pan. Check to see if there is anything strange in there. Anything other than super fine metal shavings is bad. And this should be non existant on a 4k mile motor.
If even one of those tests turns out hinky then I would send the motor back.
Oil filter is not a big deal since I'm sure you were going to replace it anyways. There are a couple of clues that I see from the pictures. First, that is not a TL intake manifold. It looks like an accord engine. Is that what you bought? That would mean you have a 3.0L instead of a 3.2L.
Second, the timing belt is missing. The only reason for this is if it jumped teeth, broke the belt, or was over-reved. In anycase the valves would be bent.
Before sending it back, make sure...
1)You got a TL motor and not an Accord motor.
2)Take off the valve covers and inspect the valves. You would see if they're bent. And maybe use a ratchet and socket to rotate the cam at the cam gear to see how everything is moving down there.
3)Do a compression test. The valve covers would have to be off so you can make sure the valves are closed. This is difficult without the timing belt but it is possible. You can tell they are closed if you blow compressed air into the spark plug hole and can no longer hear the air coming out. This is also a chance to do a poor man's leakdown test too. Get a piece of tissue and hold it over each valve with the air going. The tissue will move cause it's being hit by the air coming from the valve. Once the tissue stops moving and no air can be felt then you know that valve seals. In the compression stroke all the valves for that cylinder should seal. If it doesn't seem that you can quite get all 4 to seal at the same time then you have a bent valve. And if you have a bent valve then there is no point to continue with the compression test cause it won't have any due to leaky valves. Then move onto the next cylinder and repeat. (You'll need a crank bolt so you can turn the engine over again and again with a socket and breaker bar. It would need to be turned over 2 or 3 times to show compression.)
4)If all that turns out ok then flip the motor over and take off the oil pan. Check to see if there is anything strange in there. Anything other than super fine metal shavings is bad. And this should be non existant on a 4k mile motor.
If even one of those tests turns out hinky then I would send the motor back.
11-03-2009, 10:27 AM
#23
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
11-03-2009, 10:31 AM
#24
It would make it 50x easier if you had the timing belt put on. You would only have to turn the crankshaft. And just like eg94! said you won't be hitting any valves with the pistons if you have the belt. Since it is an interference designed engine. I say to give it a good once over since it was so cheap. It might be worth it.
11-03-2009, 03:20 PM
#27
Sure, but I thought you would remember this since you posted in the thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=747258
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=747258
yes that is the motor i bought.
11-03-2009, 04:12 PM
#29
One on the right for me
Sure, but I thought you would remember this since you posted in the thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=747258
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=747258
11-03-2009, 04:28 PM
#30
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This story is why I never purchase big ticket items like this on eBay.
11-03-2009, 06:57 PM
#32
you can only refuse delievry when the truck is at your door and the unit still on the truck...why should the shipper eat anything?
The seller totally misrepresented and ebay will agree- you can get a refund or maybe pay half
I would pull the oil pan for more diagnosing
NO WAY can you turn the engine without timing belt - thats SURE to damage the open valves!!!!
The belts etc were either melted or sold off the thing while it layed in a pile of rusty water
Any reason known why the car was a total?- engine fire from not getting the ps hose recall fixed?
The seller totally misrepresented and ebay will agree- you can get a refund or maybe pay half
I would pull the oil pan for more diagnosing
NO WAY can you turn the engine without timing belt - thats SURE to damage the open valves!!!!
The belts etc were either melted or sold off the thing while it layed in a pile of rusty water
Any reason known why the car was a total?- engine fire from not getting the ps hose recall fixed?
11-03-2009, 08:44 PM
#35
^^ I dont need an engine. I was going to upgrade. I was going to break into the 12's all motor. My best time with my 3.2 was 13.60's @ 256 hp. I was thinking if i can put near 300hp down with the 3.5 i will break into the 12.80 to 12.90's.
11-03-2009, 09:03 PM
#36
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Ah i see now. i guess it was a good plan gone bad. Ran my baby at the track a couple weeks ago and pulled out a 14.1 at 102. Pretty happy with that but what have you done to get down to a 13.6
11-03-2009, 10:16 PM
#37
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
slicks & juice I'm guessing. I've never heard of a NA AT UA6 doing anything south of 14.
