So i was at my dealer back in march and i was told that my brembo brake pads are almost gone. According to the tech, i only have 3mm left and needs a replacement asap. The tech told me that i should replace the pads once i hit 2mm. And when i asked how long can i drive with 1 mm, he said 500miles at max. I haven't changed my brake pads and i've driven close to 1000 miles (highway + local). My friend was telling me the other day that i shouldn't change the brake pads until i hear the squeaking noise when i step on the brake. Seems logical. Does this logic apply to brembo brakes as well? (BTW I own a 08-TL-S) Should i wait for the brake to squeak prior to replacing the brake pads? Also the tech told me that i had to resurface the rotor and a lot of people are telling me there is no need to resurface the rotor.

While i was at the dealer, i noticed my tire pressure psi was all over the place. Hence i had requested the dealer to fix the pressure on the tires. When they were done, i noticed they were even all around, 37 front and back. I clearly remember reading on the manual that the type S has to have 3-5 psi higher than the rear. The tech is telling me that a lot of customers are complaining how the car drives very stiff when the front tire pressures are higher than the rear hencing make the psi even all around. Am i supposed to have 3-5 psi higher for the front two tires?

 

In regards to your brake pads... how many miles you have driven on them?
Waiting for a squeak? I don't recommend that.... Do inspect your rotors for any unusual wear or dimples/grooves.

In regards to psi... the manual recommends 35psi front and 32psi back. This is mostly done to compensate for the torque at the front wheels..

I run 36 in the front and 34 in the back. It's all depends on your driving style. I like it firm.

 

If you mean listen for the squealer tab, yeah, that's OK advice. BUT if your pads are in fact 3mm TOTAL then it's just about time to change and that squealer tab should be making noise or is defective.

If he meant 3mm SERVICE LIFE (i.e. 5 - 6 mm) total, then you've got a little less than 50% of the pad life remaining. Keep going and listen for the squealer tab down the road.


Pressure: Owners Manual says 35F / 32 R; I run mine ass-backwards ~34 F and 37 R.

 

If they are low, have them changed. A few thousand miles isn't going to save you any money, just time, and if a rotor were to get grooved, it will cost you more money while waiting.

 

1... brake pads.. probably an upsell.. I wouldn't be suprised if they didn't even actually verify pad thickness. They probably used the visual ruler. Check them out yourself. They're real easy to do and a definite DIY.

2... PSI.. 37 is fine and having equal pressure all around is okay.

 

lol.. Bearcat.. no matter how much you try .. it'll never be RWD..

 

I have nitro all 4 wheels and 35 PSI....

 

I have my tires at 40 psi now.

 

More psi, less tread grip on the road. Cary..you have 40 psi on stocks?

 

do you guys know if autozone sells oem brembo brake pads or do i have to get them at a dealer? They quoted me $200 for front two.

 

^ ebay is your friend. I believe I've paid $160.

 

i just found one on ebay for $146 sold by acura dealer of larchmont. How much should i be looking at to get the front two brake pads installed at a local shop?

 

why are you paying for stock OE pads when there are better and less expensive pads in the market?

I would never pay $150 for pads unless they were going to last me long and for all 4 wheels.

 

Everyone is telling me the oem pads last longer than aftermarket pads. Can you recommend any?

 

YES oem is better because they suit your stock rotors.

If you are already going aftermarket, might as well change your rotors to slotted. OEM will last you the longest too, the only problem with OEM that I hate is the dusting.

 

Not to be argumentative but ceramics are a better less expensive option. Get AutoZone Durlast Gold CMax pads.. They have lifetime replacement warranty so when they wear out just bring them in with your receipt and you get new ones free. They don't squeak and dust much less than OE. Here's a related thread:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=710809

just read through it.. or for a synopsis: They're comparable to OE, little dusting, a lot of life, lifetime replacement, inexpensive.

 

the tech said 3mm and 500 miles
the minimum is 2mm pad thickness - so that would be what he was going on-
Pads start about 8mm
Once they are below 4 they dont shed heat as well= less effective braking
Waiting for a squeeler tab- assuming your car has one on the current pads- is deadly!
And can result in damage to the rotor.., then unequal pad wear tears into the rotor and you get to spend a bit more for all new parts--
when you could have replaced the pads today

If you want OE there are several dealers listed in the Sponsored Threads list of approved vendors
They have good deals- PM or call for fastest service
Make sure you tell them you are with Acurazine for extra discounts

 

higher psi than book is normal and 36 is commonly used for best mileage and maintains even tire wear across the tread- while saving gas for america!

its still within the max cold- which is based on the max weight listed on the tire
Some find that 80% of the tire max cold works well- as the car weighs about 80% of what the tires will carry
example 50psi cold max weight= 40 at normal weight

 

Thank you

 

But come to think of it.. I always ran even psi on all of my cars.. except my TL-S.. For some reason I'm compelled to obey the manual...

Why is there 2 psi more suggested for the front? Can I be right that's all about the torque? Heavier engine (3.5)?'

I always ran 5 psi below the max.. so on my low profile it would say 44 max psi...I'd run 39..mostly to prevent bubbles, but the traction suffered.

 

Not true... My wife wore the OEM pads almost down to the brackets within 30,000 miles. The Akebono ProACT Ceramics on there now have been on for 35,000 miles and still look to have another 5,000 miles left on em'.

 

Get EBC pads, either Red Stuff (full ceramic) or Green Stuff (semi-metallic)

On the PSI, check on the inside of your drivers door, there is a sticker on the edge on the B pillar. That's where they post the recommended tire pressure. Mine is 39 front, 36 rear.

 

would rotota pads with stock brembo rotors would be alright? would be a good pair?

 

I drive in reverse.

 

lol.. you truly are a ninja master.. excuse my insolence sensei.

 

bahahahah. That's as RWD as it gets

 

goodyear eagle GT. my stock worn out very quickly at 22k miles, mostly at outer edge, probably due to my aggressive cornering, so I decided to have higher PSI with the new tires. the tires have max 51 psi. the grip is way better than the stock bridgestone.

 

the door sticker lies!!

If you really want to do it right- get a non contact infrared thermometer (harbor freight tools 20$) and after a flat cruising run and a hard twisties run- check the tire temps at outer band- center and inner band of tire tread
It should be equal across
Then you check each tires hot pressure
You can read the temp numbers to see if pressure is too high or too low, if toe is good or not and more,,
at the race track the tires are temp checked as soon as the car comes off track

try the weight calculation method and 80 percent- see what that comes out to and try it a few days