SouthernBoy

I ordered a set of Rotex Gold Kevlar front brake pads for my '04 6MT TL. I was just looking through the shop manual and noticed their reference to the use of a "special tool" to remove the caliper pins. Upon examination, it looks like you just need to use a punch of the correct size. Is this right? Otherwise, the job looks like a cinch since you don't even need to remove or reposition the calipers for pad replacement.

Thoughts, tips, ideas, and comments are most welcome. I've done quite a few pad and shoe replacements in the past and this one looks like it may be the easiest.

subinf

A punch works just fine. I didnt have one when I did the work and used a small allen wrench. Easiest pad replacement I have done in my life...

Ron A

The "special tool" is a "3.5mm pin driver", or punch.

Page 19-2 if you have a service manual.

SouthernBoy

Thanks, subinf. So you just use the punch with some easy taps from a hammer and out it comes, eh?

Yeah, it's crazy. You don't have to remove the top section of the caliper (since there isn't one, anyway). My '96 Contour SE was really nice in this department since the "removal" part of the calipers was hinged, so you just removed a long through bolt, then swung the top up on its hinge to reveal the pads.

This one looks really simple.

SouthernBoy

Thanks, Ron. Yep, I have the Service Manual. Any particular brand of grease recommended for the backs of the pads?

SouthernBoy

Interestingly, based upon what I've seen (and heard from y'all), I'll probably spend more time washing the accumulated dust from the rear inner section of the wheels while they're off the car than putting in new pads.

Then soon thereafter, a new set of tires. I'm pretty sure I'm going with the Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S tires even though they're H rated. I had a set of Pilot Sport A/S tires on my 2002 Altima SE and really liked them. But they do make a strange noise under throttle that's similar to the sound you hear when driving down a wet asphault road.

subinf

The first few taps took a little muscle behind them but, obviously as you can see, its very straightforward after that. I wasnt using a full lift (snap on lift that, actually, is meant for brake jobs...but only lifts the car a few feet in the air) when doing the brakes so I didnt have a great position to hit the pin out of the caliper.

ITL

I used a thin screwdriver and a small mallet. Not sure why you'd need a special tool

SouthernBoy

Well, of course, you know that the Service Manual is going to recommend the use of a "special tools" and even gives part numbers for same. I suspect the reasoning may very well be liability issues. I would tend to use a punch and since punches are pretty common household toolbox items, that one's a no brainer. Except my punches are either too large or too small at this time. A nail with the sharp end filed down would be just the ticket, too.

trancemission

Hey Southern Boy, if you have time, can you snap me a few pics of this when you do it if you havent changed them already?

I didnt know you didnt have to remove the caliper. I just would like pics for future reference.

SouthernBoy

How about I send the Serivce Manual pages instead. Not much on taking pics when my hands are going to be nice and blackened from the brake dust.

trancemission

no problem man, I could just figure it out. Its not the space shuttle

but yeah if you want shoot me those pages..

jmbnova

SouthernBoy... Let me know how it goes. I have to do my brakes inthe next few weeks and I am curious how easy you found it to be. I was about to post a similar thread this week!!

Also, how did you decide on the Rotex Gold Kevlar pads? Also, where did you order them?

Thanks for the info!!

Legend2TL

I use Stabil synthetic brake grease (available at Advance Autoparts) on the backs and side guildes of brake pads. Use sparingly!

subinf

here is the thread i looked at before replacing my pads.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ke+replacement

SouthernBoy

I really did a lot of research on other sites as well as here on this site. Several of our members have installed the Rotex Gold Kevlars and have not posted any negative comments. And all have mentioned the low amount of dust compared with the stock units.. a BIG plus with me since I don't race or rag my TL.

I got them from brakewarehouse.com and the man with whom I spoke was very knowledgeable and straight. He pulled no punches. We had a great conversation about 60's American supercars. They were $119 plus shipping.

SouthernBoy

Thanks much for the info. I have to get some items before I do the swap.. as in some newer and better jack stands (good excuse to upgrade) and a few other things.

SouthernBoy

SUPER thread, subinf.. thanks so much. And I know that trancemission thanks you as well. I was having a heck of a time last night trying to scan some pages from my Service Manual for him.

You did well!

SouthernBoy

One other thing. I really agonized over the Rotex, the Hawks, and Green Stuff. The man at brakewarehouse.com sells a lot of Rotex Gold Kevlar brakes to high end cars, even through the dealers to be installed before pickup because of the dusting problems. I suspect Hawks may have been my runner-up choice because of their reputation and I doubt if I would have been sorry if I had gone that way. I imagine with this level of after-market product, you're splitting hairs in your decision.

jmbnova

Awesome... Thanks for the info.... this is exactly the thread I was going to start later this week after I got organized... Im going to order my pads tomorrow.... now if only I could find drilled/slotted rotors for the 6MT....

subinf

jaredgms (doesnt post in the 3rd gen) suggested i look into just getting the regular rotors for the 3rd gen and then taking them to a shop that would drill them for me. he did that on his volvo and is happy with how they turned out.

otherwise disc italia makes drilled/slotted rotors for our 6mt, pricey at about 500 bucks though

subinf

i got mine from there also...im happy with the pads and there is hardly any dust. when they get hot they make a weird noise sometimes but still top well. im going to try out the green stuff next time the pads are due (or sooner) and see how i like them compared to the rotex ones.

trancemission

I second that!! and thanks for keeping me in mind SouthernBoy..

SouthernBoy

Yeah, I was going to try to find a thread like that. Glad he found it for us.

SouthernBoy

The one thing that seemed to keep coming up with the Hawks on the site was noise. No one said anything about this with the Rotex under normal driving. And The Green Stuff seemed to be better than the Hawks in that department, too.

subinf

^-Noise isnt bad at all...I dont want to be quoted writing otherwise. I only really notice it when I go to the Acura meets and drive for long distances on twisty roads, really heating up the brakes. at times it will make an awkward whine, but even then its not every time i stop and is usually only slowing between 25-15mph...You are going to be happy with the pads

jmbnova

I hear there is some cryogenically frozen rotors that are supposed to be great and they have an aplication for 6mt TLs for about 250 or so each

jmbnova

found it.... http://www.frozenrotors.com/store/bm...alipers&type=1

$250 each for the 6MT fronts and $110 each for the rears....

subinf

thanks for the link, this is something to consider

chill_dog

Interesting. I knew there was research/evidence that freezing certain things to this degree slightly alters its composition, making them more sturdy. I remember seeing panty hose used as an example...once frozen and then thawed, it was almost indestructible! Their site seemed to be a little lacking in the info department (maybe I just didn't search it well enough), but I would love to see some more technical information on how the process specifically affects the rotors.

SouthernBoy

Frozen panty hose? Well, there goes the box lunch.