LTLZack

Do you guys know, if it is possible to put front end rotors and calipers on the back?
I know the stopping power is 30/70 back/front. Is there a way of tweaking that?

LTLZack

sorry, wrong generation, but the question still applies, as i am sure, the same would be on a 04-

01tl4tl

same answer as correct thread NO


Mods please LOCK this one down~

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

why tamper with the 70/30 on fwd... you wanna slide out?

Be-in my TL

Most of your braking power is in front. Increasing rear rotors is just as stupid as putting slotted / drilled rotors in the rear. Please dont do this.

Tripnbeats

wtf are you guys talking about.....thats like saying the evo n sti shouldnt have brembos in the rear.....it was stupid for honda NOT to put brembos in the rear if u ask me. and you're not gonna go sliding out if u put stronger brakes in the rear the master cylinder and abs pump controls the braking power in the front n rear.

01tl4tl

tripn- go back and read some shop manuals before giving more bad info
ABS does into come into play unless the wheel speed sensor spots a differance and thinks its locking up a wheel, has NOTHING to do with pad wear of brake bias on the TL
Put good rotors pads and Legend dual piston calipers in front, and that will be awesome enough for normal humans.
I have a competition race license and checkered flags to back my statements of knowledge.
What do you have beside some acura tech giving you bad info,,,, like- drain trans fluid and drive with it low to get more particles out-- that was a great laugh to start my day- thanks!!!

fsttyms1

Sure you can put brembos on the rear, BUT you arent going to be increasing the rear braking pressure. It would be stupid to. Especially on most street cars. You will mess up the ABS modulation, not to mention have a very hard to control car on your hands. There is a reason most rears arent as big as the front. TRACTION!!! You arent going to be stopping any faster.

Tripnbeats

hahahaha OOOOkkk..... what does "competition race license" have to do with this?? are u some super human god man that knows all about cars???? YEa i could be wrong and probably am who knows or cares.....oh yea i forgot... u do because your a great gear shifter with your competition race license.........meanwhile I stated that.... its what I do to the tranny (MY GEARBOX) to get a lil extra shit out of it.... not power....just shit junk flying around in there...and i dont recommend it to anyone i just do it for piece of mind.... now let me here ur infinite knowledge on that and anything else you'd like to share.

Tripnbeats

fstty isnt the pressure is already set by the braking system? I doubt it would be adding more... to the caliper...its not compensating for any lose is it?

AcuraVic

Also,
there are some threads reporting bad results in radically changing your brake set up. If you want to upgrade your brakes, get stock size rotor upgrade (like front and rear slotted/cross drilled) or get a big brake kit.
Big brake kits are tested and engineered to give you more stopping power.

I replaced my stock rotors (front and read) with slotted and cross drilled. They are stock size, and my braking inproved in high speed slow down. When I'm driving normal, they feel normal, and it improved the sporty look of my TL (which is all I wanted).
All the cars systems (ABS, Stability control) need to be factored in when you make changes to your braking system.

Good Luck

Tripnbeats

yea all Id want to do is change the rear rotors the rest is good with me too. but i still wish acura woulda dropped it with brembos just for looks if not for high performance...."makes the car look good and match on all 4 corners"

Tripnbeats

ooo fs I realized u wrote U wont be increasing pressure oops sorry lol

01tl4tl

it doesnt take the best gear shifter to win races- the guy who can use his brakes to the max- not overheat them- and still have enough left to finish the race and hold off the other cars on the last lap...that requires a KNOWLEDGE of brakes and SKILLS in their operation.
The skill translates to road driving- mountain fun- track days- survival on the freeway etc.
I stated a referance experience background point that I think members can relate to-
The guy who actually drives race cars probably knows more about cars in general than the lay person.
The guy with Legend calipers on his TL-- probably knows how they work on a TL

You go fast pushing the right side pedal- I go fast by using finesse, car control and physics.

In your post you do not say- DO NOT USE THIS METHOD-
you claim an acura tech told you----that puts in peoples mind that it is ok to do this on their car.
If you are going to state what is opinion -not fact based on experience- then put IMO `in my opinion` with your statement

IMO crossdrilled rotors on a `just street driven` TL are bling factor only
IMO money spent on serious good rotors and pads is a better investment than crossdrilled.
IMO painting all the calipers and brackets black looks great

End of rant:
my other ride contacts the ground at 150mph, weighs 3 times a TL, and has less than 3000 feet to stop,,,, or the really big trees are your next view-
wanna know about brakes and braking technique???

I do not claim to know all things car-I know more than the average person from decades of experience in the industry.
If I knew it all- there would be no reason to hang out on azine and read things like EGR cleaning and various codes mean such repair,- sensors that fail--things to watch for on my TL
Others come here for their own reasons

bibledriver

If you want bling, by the Stoptech BBK for all four. You will look pimpin and have wicked brakes. Stopping is good. Factory brake bias is good. Increasing rear braking ability unproportionally, NOT good. ( IMO )

Legend2TL

Hey this is an amusing thread for a Friday afternoon but I agree with almost everyone on this thread.

- multi-piston calipers look cool on all four corners, especially the C6 Z06 and MB AMG S/SL models with front 8 piston and 4 piston.

- Does a FWD car with 60/40 weight distribution need it? No

- One thing to bear in mind in any braking application is to match the braking force (piston area for the caliper, pads, disc area, brake bias valve,...) with the physics of the car. Also big brakes increase rotational inertia (making it more difficult to accelerate) and more unsprung weight (which makes the suspension's job more difficult). So you want the brakes to get the job done with the least weight. Often a very hard compromise!

- However the best braking car I ever drove was a friends Porsche 944 turbo with 4 piston calipers with cross-drilled and ventilated discs on all four wheels. I was driving it on a closed parkway and he urged me to stomp on the brakes from a 120+ (this was 2 decades ago). I repeated it less than a minute later with absolutely no fade I could feel. Great Bosch ABS system also, it also had some nice summer tires. Great modulation, feel, and control. Porsche there is no substitute.

bluenose

Does anyone here understand the principle of Electronic Brake Force Distribution. Might put paid on some of these arguments.

Legend2TL

It adjusts the front/rear brake bias depending upon some conditions. I have to look into the TL shop manual (they have very informative diagrams and words to describe on a variety of the tech works on the TL) but I believe it uses the car pitch angle to determine how much force to put on front or rear. The purpose is to find the optimum front/rear balance such that you can achieve the greatest braking force without locking up.

Alot of folks think that ABS will achieve that but often in the dry it does not because as soon as a tire stops rotating (or significant reduction in rotational speed) the ABS modulator releases brake pressure from that wheel. However if a tires locks up, the friction coefficient of the tire changes from statisc to dynamic (for rubber the static cofficient is higher than the dynamic) and there is a reduction of braking force on that tire (that's why it feels like you're speeding up when you lock up the tires since there has been a reduction in braking force). This disruption and the time it takes to reduce the brake pressure until the tire rotates again causes longer stopping distance. That's why great race drivers such as Senna or Schumacher know exactly how much braking force is needed before locking up the tires. Even when F1 cars had ABS (early 90's on some Williams), the drivers would still modulate brake pressure since a tire in static friction cofficient will provide the shortest topping distances.

So the electronic braking distribution works with varing the brake balance depending on some factors (I thought the only one was car pitch angle). Similar mechanical systems have been around for decades esspecially on trucks where you have varing loads in the rear depending on towing things or hauling stuff.

subinf

3000 feet? Is that a typo? Or am I just missing the context?

01tl4tl

context:
some runways are shorter than others, you can get 12,000 pounds down on the ground at 150 mph, but will it stop is always the question~
And small planes have even smaller brakes!!!
knowing about braking has certainly helped me in flying as well as racing and street survival

bibledriver

lol
your're talking rotors and stators stacked3,-5 or 6 deep (think of 10 disc brake systems on an axle) and 3000 psi hydraulic pressure to apply brakes. Yeah, brake pressure distribution is important. 3000 feet is pretty good IMO!

bibledriver

What are you in a merlin, or what?

01tl4tl

King Air, and the little planes have basic mechanical disc brakes smaller than the TL rear brakes.
Thats the fun ones to get stopped from 60~

bibledriver

ever noticed the sparks flying when braking hard in a cessna! Freaky

subinf

Oh. I had no idea you were talking about airplanes. That changes everything.