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P0767 - Time for a Transmission?!

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Old 05-18-2023, 02:02 PM
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P0767 - Time for a Transmission?!

Hey all! Back again with another convoluted issue. My 2007 TL is at 289,000. Original motor and trans (to my knowledge).

Just the other day, the "D" light starting flashing at an even interval while I was driving. When it started flashing, the VSA light and check engine light come on. The code is P0767. The behavior of the power train doesn't change when the lights are on. It also throws 61-1 and something else with the power train. When I get back to the shop and have the sheet from the first time it happened. I will post the rest of the codes as I don't have the print out from AutoZone handy as I write this. It's currently at one of the best Honda Shops in DFW. So, they did what Honda says to do with that code and drained out the trans fluid to inspect it for metal. Found nothing. Normal build up on plug magnet.

When the D Light is flashing and the VSA light and check engine light is on if I turn the car off and it sits for a few moments then upon starting it, it's just a solid check engine light. Then, if I let the car sit over night, the check engine light will turn off. The "D" Light won't start flashing until I drive it, at least for a few hours, and then the whole, turn off, let it sit, then let it sit for longer process starts again.

The shop said it needs a new transmission. However, the transmission is driving and shifting totally normally. Being that the issue seems to be correlated to how hot the vehicle is, I'm thinking it's some electrical crap or the solenoids indicated by the codes. They say if it's the (or a) solenoid(s), as indicated by the code then I'd be looking at close to $1k in parts and labor, which I'm iffy about since the solenoids themselves aren't that expensive. Their reasoning is that with the car having nearly 300k miles I might as well put a new transmission in it rather than put expensive parts on an old unit like that. I've had issues with shops being lazy or not wanting to figure stuff out, obviously incentivized by the expensive work, so, I'm hoping ya'll might be able to shed some light on the situation. Thanks!
Old 05-18-2023, 04:04 PM
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^

IIRC'ly, aren't you the same guy, at the end of 2022, who was on here talking about your transmission slamming into drive & reverse, could not find a replacement within a suitable amount of time and ended up only changing the mounts or something?
With that said, maybe it's time to put a fork in it, make a command decision and replace the tired 289K transmission this go around?

Old 05-18-2023, 05:18 PM
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Update on Codes:

When it first happened via code read at AutoZone:

P0767 (listed three times on print out for some reason)
83-14
83-13
61-1

Mechanic also found P0796 today. Their report is as follows:

"Scanned for codes with the HDS and found multiple transmission codes. P0767 and P0796. Drained the transmission fluid through a strainer and did not see any metal debris. Refilled the transmission with new fluid. Completed clutch pressure control solenoid Valve C test and shows normal. Completed shift solenoid D test and can hear it click. recommend replacing the transmission. A/C fan was not working, replaced relay."

Based on the receipt it looks like they put in fresh ATF DW-1 after draining the old stuff out to check for debris.

Drove it 24 miles home with no issue, will drive around more today.
Old 05-18-2023, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta
^

IIRC'ly, aren't you the same guy, at the end of 2022, who was on here talking about your transmission slamming into drive & reverse, could not find a replacement within a suitable amount of time and ended up only changing the mounts or something?
With that said, maybe it's time to put a fork in it, make a command decision and replace the tired 289K transmission this go around?
Yes, that was me lol. I was told emphatically by the shop that I had it at that there was nothing they could find wrong with the transmission. Then, the yahoo's go and neglect to put the vacuum line in to the mount that sits on the rear of the motor between the firewall and twerked my exhaust manifold so that now, I can hear an ever so slight exhaust leak right from the dash on the left side. Love it. So, even though it vibrates 95% less than it did with the Chinese mounts and goes into gear smoother, I still get steering wheel vibration. And they have to redo the job just to hook up the friggin' vacuum line. I have noticed that most places I take my car to treat it like shit because it's old and high mileage. Not cool!

To answer you question, I'm hesitant to spend that much on the car when I'm going overseas for two months and then going into OTR trucking with no home time, i.e. live in the truck... What need for a car would I have when it'll be parked at the terminal for weeks on end while I'm in a semi? So, that's one factor. On top of that, I'm not entirely convinced that a new transmission is necessary at this point. The thing drives, up shifts, down shifts, goes into gear, ect. exactly as it has for the last 100k miles. I got the vibe from the mechanic I was dealing with that he just did not feel like really diving into whatever the issue is.

I've just been jerked around with trans issues that I did not post about here, or posted years ago when I got the car. For instance, when I got it 100k miles ago every single shop I took it to about the harsh down shifts (the reason why the prior owner sold it...) said to put in a new transmission. Then, I do some research and it turns out it needed a 3x3 and the clutch oil pressure sensors. Boom, another LITERAL 100k miles and 5 years. I understand at 289k it's not likely to go that far again, though at the same time I had people swear up and down when it was around 200k that "it's time for a new transmission, motor, sell it, ect.". I'd rather slap in a new transmission than sit and chase gremlins if I was a shop as well, I get it. It's not as straightforward as "put in a new transmission" by any means.

On top of that, after the car just recently sat for two months, I come back to a bad AC relay. Then, today, find out the AC fan isn't working. Why? Relay. I understand the AC relay is common on our cars but the fan relay, according to the mechanic, is not. So, what are the chances that two unrelated relays happen to fail within 15 days of one another right as some funky on again off again drive train issue is showing up? Could all these issues be related?
Old 05-18-2023, 09:29 PM
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This long message put me to sleep like reading a book before bed time. I am going to sleep now.
Old 05-18-2023, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by VictorTL
This long message put me to sleep like reading a book before bed time. I am going to sleep now.
sleep tight sweetie
Old 05-20-2023, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by zoopzop
To answer you question, I'm hesitant to spend that much on the car when I'm going overseas for two months and then going into OTR trucking with no home time, i.e. live in the truck... What need for a car would I have when it'll be parked at the terminal for weeks on end while I'm in a semi? So, that's one factor.
How much I read on the internet OTR is in worst crisis ever.
Old 05-21-2023, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by bbsitum
How much I read on the internet OTR is in worst crisis ever.

Yeah, well, it took me 4 months of research just to find accurate information because 95% of truckers are worth and entitled dumb asses, so, watch out what you read. As far as I can tell, it's an excellent opportunity if you're not lazy or stupid. I'll be sure to report back if you'd like.

Car ran 100 miles yesterday with no lights and no issues. I'm having another guy look at it tomorrow. I think sitting for two months is what kicked up this issue, but, we'll see. Taking it to North Dallas and back with another 4 or 5 hours of InstaCart to see if I can get it to do it again...
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