Let me calmly write this as I am about to throw a wrench through my winshield (of my truck that is). I'm under the car changing over or trying to change over to M1 synthetic. However...My oil and the filter won't move. Any tips? please! All input is appreciated.

 

Ok the easist way would be to have an oil filter wrench or strap or maybe even some channel locks. Other wise grab a screwdriver jam it in the side of the filter and turn. It will make a mess but better than not getting it off.

D

 

your oil as in the drain bolt? If that doesnt move.. try a breaker bar or a little more force. It may have been over tightened.

The filter: try a filter wrench. If that doesnt work, this is what I would do.

hammer a screwdriver through the bottom of it for leverage. Use the leverage to twist it.
This is an old trick in the book, and it works perfectly. I sometimes dont know my own strength, so I sometimes tighten stuff a little too much.

What you should do before any of this is make sure you're twisting the right way. Remember, lefty loosey, righty tighty.



Edit: AHH, he beat me to it. Yes, exactly what we described. It works every time.

 

I thought about the screw driver....but I tell you this. This thing is SO tight that I think all that will do id tear the filter to shreds. You can't imagine how tight this is. And all the channel locks are doing is pitung dents in the filter.

 

I'm going to try this. What do you mean by the bottom? Do you mean the side bottom?

 

I wrote that fast...... I should clarify. Oil Filter. Thanks

 

Ok...just in case I'm going insane. From the bottom on my back I should be turning from right to left. Correct??

 

Okay this is what I meant sorry, not bottom

Hammer it in there so you won't hit the thread where the filter screws into.


....____
....| oil |
-->filter|
....|___|


When you hammer it in, you should twist left.

the filter is in a diagonal.

...../ oil /
..../filter/
.../__ /
<<<----- that direction.

 

Oh, don't go through the bottom. Turn your wheels all the way to the right. You will be able to get to the filter that way a lot easier.

Go from the side of the car, instead of going under. You will have more force when you're on your knees or squatted down than of laying down.

 

The screwdriver worked. THANKS!!!

 

Nice! Haha, another case of the screwdriver trick =)

 

An oil filter wrench is basically channel locks. But I see the screw driver trick worked.

D

 

You should find the person that put it on that tight and throw it at them.

 

another fine example of why to DIY
The drain plug torque is 29 foot pounds- not the 50++ it was probably at
And the oil filter is finger tight plus 1/4-1/3 of a turn- see its directions

put oil in the new filter before install- put fresh oil on its threads and rubber seal, will make it much easier to change next time

 

Except the oil on the seal is more to ensure a good seal. As the oil on that seal dries it would actually leave a slight varnish due to the oil drying out over time and actually make it harder to remove.

But I still recommend it like you do but just to ensure a good seal, not to help it come off easier.

D

 

I can relate to having a stuck filter.....I broke a strap wrench once on it. I was so pissed because I already drained all the oil out and I had no other real way to take it off and the hardware store was closed. I ended up using my bare hands and brute force.

I found I twist it the wrong way sometimes, LOL. Just remember that when you put the filter back on, don't overtighten it.

 

thats right don- you caught me on a detail- doh! when will I learn to give generic answers!!!the oil on the oring is to ensure a leak free seal

I think in terms of my K&N oil filter- it has a secret way that lubes the oring from inside- making it easier to remove. Not to mention the 1 inch nut welded on the end of the can! With that, a socket and ratchet- the filter spins right off- glazed oil residue or not~

Wipe the seal area clean with a rag and some carb clean before new filter install.
Prefilling the filter helps prevent engine damage while the filter fills then the oil resumes circulation in the engine. Its an extra precaution.
On the race car engines - we crank the engine over with no fuel or spark until oil pressure is reading on the guage- then its safe to start the engine.

 

How much filled is a filter filled before that filter is full???

 

3/4 is fine, some people fill it all the way... there is no right amount as long as you fill the center up

 

Really? You have to fill the filter before installing? Oops -_- I love this forum... now I know to fill it up when I change my oil!

Thanks

 

I totally agree. Do it yourself, prefill, lube the new o-ring, and put it on hand tight. You will be happy you did it the next time you change the oil. If it's installed right, an oil filter wrench should never be necessary.

 

So very true but we all know how often it gets done correctly when not doing it ourselves. Not often. Also filling the filter up with oil is the best method like stated before but not often done in the actual field. I really doubt even the Acura dealers fill up the filter with oil.

So basically no one will ever take better care of your car than yourself.

D

 

You don't "have to" fill it up, as it does not say so in the service manual. I just fill it up, cause I figure when I first start the car up, it would be nice to have some oil already in the filter, so it can circulate around the engine faster than if the filter was empty.

In reality, it probably doesn't make a difference, as I'm pretty sure as soon as you filled up the crankcase with oil, the filter will get filled in the process, but I'm just guessing.

 

Sorry dude---WRONG!!!
The filter is a pressure filled device that runs off the oil pump- which turns when the engine is running
Pouring oil in the crankcase is a seperate issue- if that filled the filter, would we even be having this discussion??
Sure its not in the book- do they tell you everything you need to know- like induction cleaning is good prevenative maitenance-
While it is not required to prefill- do this simple test:
Dont fill the filter- add engine oil to crankcase only
start the car and count how many seconds till the red light for low oil pressure goes out. Thats how long the engine is thrashing parts together with no flow of cushioning and lubricating oil to them.
Now try it with the filter filled- 3/4 is fine- add engine oil- start car- red light out immediatly!
Which do you think- in the long run and health of an engine that will go well past 200k miles, is the better method???????????

We are talking about being the DIYer having the time to do a BEST job- not just get it done.

Based on this story of overtight plug- which is bad in itself- soft pan material/stripped threads- crush washer crushed --
and overtight filter----- do you think whatever shop did it-- took time to check tire pressures, look under the car for torn cv boot or leaks anywhere?
Trust no-one- verify everything is my motto

 

Here's a recent experience with a quick lube place...

I was late leaving town one day in the girlfriend's Murano. It was overdue for a change so for the first time in many years I stopped by a quick lube place. I supplied the $8/quart Amsoil and $14 Amsoil filiter.

4 months later I go to change the oil again. I put it up on the rack and notice the Mobil one filter from the previous change was still on it. My expensive Amsoil filter had disappeard. Now I'm stuck wondering if I just went 7,500 miles on thier cheapest bulk oil too. I got a month's worth of free car washes and two employees fired but I was still pissed.

 

whatever brand it said on the dispensing machine- in dino oil- is what they put in.
chevron or penzoil or mobil are the provider to a lot of the quick places

And they may not have had a filter in stock for the murano--
the guy under the car in the pit-- has not seen the work order, and has NO idea there is a filter supplied for the car by the customer

If you must use one of those places- stand at the edge of the driveway- behind the yellow line please Sir!! and tell the pit guy- There is a special amsoil filter- is it in your hand yet?
and the guy about to grab the standard hose- !!!!HEY !!!! there are 5 bottles of my oil- thats what is going in this car!!!.
It helps if you speak a foreign language or 3 in order to communicate with the staff.
Theft of a hi dollar oil item- from someone making minimum wage, who may or may not be a legal resident and employee in the usa---you do the math~
BUT that is just MY opinion -for what its worth as someone from the biz

 

I changed my oil and filter today. I used channel locks before and used it again today. Make sure you turn the wheel to give yourself more room. I got a correct size filter wrench which i'll use next time so it'll come off easier.

 

Hmm fill the filter up....there's a new one. Why didn't I think of that? I do all my own oil changes and you'd think I know that. I feel like an ass. After oil changes I would customarily run my engine for 5 minutes to check for leaks and let the oil circulate everywhere and then recheck the oil level a few minutes after turning it off to make sure it was adequate. There's my acurazine lesson of the day.

 

I am old as the earth itself, and brought up on race cars and airplanes and working in a sports car shop- things that need special pro-active type inspections and repairs.
Doing everything a bit better than the next tech is my personal thing.
So the oil filter is my thing- unless someone told you to- how would you know~
Thats why I come here- learn things specific to the TL from people who owned one longer than I have, and share general tech knowledge and secrets the tech wont tell you.
My wife says I need to write a book ~10 things the tech wont tell you~ instead of giving it up free to azine
I use digital tire pressure guage too- that 1/2 psi might make a differance~ lol

 

and you did already know to watch for leaks!! thats better than most people do.
The ~shop rule~ was start the engine- watch for oil light to go out- then look under car at filter for leaks- look at drain plug- give the plug a tug to make sure its NOT going to come out (torque spec- wtf is that??) then shut off engine- wipe dipstick and check- add if needed then recheck

Your way rocky- is far more careful scrutiny- thats always good, to be certain things are perfect.

 

I've seen people stupidly use the old oil instead of the new oil on the filter's o-ring at installation. That could make an oil filter damn near impossible to remove as well. Combine that with overtightening and you could easily find yourself in the shitter when it comes to getting that old filter off!

This makes the case for the K&N filter with that 1" nut on top.

 

The oil filter tightening spec from the TL shop manual is 3/4 turn clockwise once the oil seal touches down on the oil filter flange plate, or 8.7 ftlb of torque.

You can use those triangle marks on the OEM oil filter to determine how far is 3/4. There are 4 triangle groups so if you see "^", then tighten to "^^^^" and so on.

 

BE VERY CAREFUL with the screwdriver technique, 3 decades ago I was removing a stuck oil filter off a Toyota Corona (it was very hard to get to the filter). The screwdriver ripped through the sheetmetal can of the filter and the jagged metal cut my index finger up (need a few stitches to close it up).

Glad you got it off, for Honda/Acura's I use this KD filter wrench available at most autopart stores.

http://www.kd-tools.com/2029.htm

I also put traction grip tape (hardware stores sell it, also see it used on skateboards) on the inside of the wrench band to enhance the grip. The best part of this type of wrench is that you use a 3/8" socket drive which works really well on the "J" series motors since the filter is very acessable from the bottom but very little side access. I use a 6" 3/8" extension with the ratchet so with the car jacked up you have plenty of room to use the ratchet.

There is also a Honda/Acura cap filter wrench but it's kinda pricey and only works with the Honda OEM filters.

 

the OE filter may be 3/4 of a turn- BUT other brands DO vary, and the box should tell you the correct amount for that particular filter

I am guessing it has to do with different oring thickness on each brand- well in truth only K&N uses a actual round Oring that I have seen- all other brands use a flat rubber washer

 

In the past there have been new filters cut apart and compared- and is seems that honda went with a cheaper filter- at least what you can buy at the dealer

Remember- they are looking at the best price on a bunch of them, not the best quality.
Some here run fram with no problems - and others have loyalty to another brand or 2.
Its all personal choice- just like the brand of oil you run.

 

Rocky..I'm just going to be funny here...


I sure hope you had already drained the oil out before you were trying to change your filter...lol

Anyway lots of good info here for both the DIYer and for those who go to the quickie joints.

 

DMZ makes the good point I failed to be clear on
Always use the NEW oil to fill the filter, and on its rubber seal- new oil only!!
Wipe the sealing surface clean and make sure there are no bits of crud or cleaning rag left on it before filter install

 

It depends on which variant OEM filter, the Honda A01 Filtec is on of the best filters in terms of construction compared to anything else on the market. Someone had some pictues of the can cut off and it;s internal construction is excellent. Also had a nice pressed in steel threaded collar. The A02 Fram is not as good (the collar threads are cut from the base flange), although I still use the A02 I've tried to buy more of the A01's and noone cares them unfortunately.

 

too many numbers for me to keep track of! you guys are really making me go buy reading glasses -- to get the finer points of some post~

The good part of azine is the wide range of knowledge- one of us will know special details of certain parts- all the better to make an informed buying decision!

 

Pics here:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...LM-A01+PCX-004

Best Oil Filter thread on the forum, IMHO.