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I got 4 quarts of this for free, unopened. I haven't changed the oil yet in my TL since I got it a few months ago but I am 99% sure that there is standard dead-dinosaur oil (or whatever you call non-synthetic oil) in the car.
I know most people here use mobil 1 full synth, but I was just wondering your guy's thoughts on this.
Yeah, 5w-30 is fine to run. If anything, you'll notice slightly worse fuel economy, but that's about it. Truth be told, the only reason Honda says to use 5w-20 is for fuel economy purposes.
I would counter a good quality 0W-20 or 5W-20 synthetic being drained from a 3G TL after say 7,500 miles would be better to put back into the engine than the crap in the bottle shown above.
I would counter a good quality 0W-20 or 5W-20 synthetic being drained from a 3G TL after say 7,500 miles would be better to put back into the engine than the crap in the bottle shown above.
Probably not.
Again...the TL didn't require synthetic. It certainly wont cause issues to use regular oil. Its just a mass produced Honda engine. If the oil meets the manual recommended specs...it will happily run.
I am sure this thread was started to make some sort of conflict. So I'll pacify any quarreling by agreeing that synthetic is generally better.
Doesn't mean this is crap or it won't work. Places like Sam's club (and Honda) usually just buy oil from some mainstream manufacturer (QS, valvoline, castrol, etc) and re-brand it.
Sorry, the oil is crap. The thing is, 5W-20, by definition, has a fair amount of synthetic oil in its base stock; 5W-30 is the industry's dumping ground for crap base stocks, the further from a top flight brand the crappier the base stock.
What are you basing your observation on? The bottle? Who refined that oil? Surely it wasn't the brand on the bottle, but one of the very few oil refineries that exist around North America. This oil is potentially going into a car that is now 10 years bottle states it is "API Service SN", which means it's likely a better quality oil than what was listed for our TLs, back in 2004.
If im not mistaken, every time a fairly substantial change occurs to oil, they Change the lettering... It goes SA, SB, SC..... S whatever we are at now. SN is likely past what was recommended by Acura for the 3G back in 04.
I wouldnt use use that oil if I was racing my car, but shit, for daily driving around town, who fucking cares? He won't be seeing crazy heat cycles. I am willing to put money on it that nothing wrong would happen to the engine on this oil. I've seen guys running anything and everything in their engines. Besides looking like an unknown brand, there is nothing indicating this stuff is shit.
So many guys get caught up in what's the best oil for their car, they fail to realize that many oil change shops use the cheapest shit possible and guess what, engines aren't failing all over the place.
Sorry, the oil is crap. The thing is, 5W-20, by definition, has a fair amount of synthetic oil in its base stock; 5W-30 is the industry's dumping ground for crap base stocks, the further from a top flight brand the crappier the base stock.
Proof? This is completely bogus. It depends on group of oil (group III, group IV, group V), not oil weight, in this case. 0w oils are normally synthetic based. Not 5w oils.
Proof? This is completely bogus. It depends on group of oil (group III, group IV, group V), not oil weight, in this case. 0w oils are normally synthetic based. Not 5w oils.
I didn't say all 5W-xx oils, I specifically said 5W-20; look it up, the spec requires a certain percentage of synthetic oil in the base stocks. If you cannot be bothered to read the spec, go over to BobIsTheOilGuy.com and read the numerous threads on the subject.
Last edited by horseshoez; May 30, 2017 at 07:45 PM.
Totally fine. I think you will need one more quart though. I usually use valvoline when I change but this car leaks a bit so I add whatever is in arms reach when it needs it. I used synthetic in my old accord and it did nothing but make me spend more.
I have used Walmart conventional oil before in my legend with no problem, just make sure you change the oil according to the manufacture recommendation. I switch over to full synthetic for extra insurance just in case I need to go couple thousand mile over the recommendation.
I wouldn't dare to use no name brand oil in my TL-S. If your wallet is so light that you need to skimp on oil, you probably shouldn't have bought a TL.
I wouldn't dare to use no name brand oil in my TL-S. If your wallet is so light that you need to skimp on oil, you probably shouldn't have bought a TL.
Everyone is totally entitled to their opinion.
But...why would you not use this oil? Just personal mind block against it? Or actual reasoning?
There is no reasoning. It meets minimum required specifications, judging by what's written on the bottle. That means your engine likely won't grenade itself any time soon.
Lol at the other guy thinking he gets semi synthetic when he goes to an Acura dealer for an oil change. Also, semi synthetic is a bit misleading. Generally what it means is a Dino based oil refined to the point where it shows synthetic qualities. But it's not actually synthetic. Ah, marketing.
Also, bob is the oil guy is a bunch of people who may or may not know stuff, posting about oil. Sorry, but unless all data is coming strictly from a manufacturer and it's not being skewed in any fashion by the manufacturer, there's just a lot of non scientific, trying to be scientific, opinion on there. Also, isn't bob is the oil guy sponsored by Amsoil? Yeah, I'm sure there's no bias there.
take it for what you will, but the engine will be just fine for daily driving purposes on that oil. Unless, of course, you have scientific proof stating otherwise.
I wouldn't dare to use no name brand oil in my TL-S. If your wallet is so light that you need to skimp on oil, you probably shouldn't have bought a TL.
Please, majority of people buy 3G TLs now because it is cheap and a great combo of looks, comfort, and reliability. Let's be real here, these are 9-13year old cars and by no means exclusive or expensive to attain.
As long as the oil meets standard specs it will be fine to use. As others have stated, the J series engines don't call for anything special in terms of oil. Use the right viscosity, change at the right interval, and it'll keep on chugging along.
Please, majority of people buy 3G TLs now because it is cheap and a great combo of looks, comfort, and reliability. Let's be real here, these are 9-13year old cars and by no means exclusive or expensive to attain.
As long as the oil meets standard specs it will be fine to use. As others have stated, the J series engines don't call for anything special in terms of oil. Use the right viscosity, change at the right interval, and it'll keep on chugging along.
By this logic, go ahead and run the cheapest 87 gas and use low quality aftermarket replacement parts. This isn't a 90's Civic with a 1.6L, even though they're cheaper to buy nowadays. Let's see how long the car lasts.
By this logic, go ahead and run the cheapest 87 gas and use low quality aftermarket replacement parts. Let's see how long the car lasts.
My mistake, I forgot in the manual where it calls for synthetic oil, or any oil beyond the spec of the referenced photo. Please do share. It does, however, call for premium gas, which one should follow, but don't have to. Your logic is invalid. Try again big baller, shot caller.
I wouldn't dare to use no name brand oil in my TL-S. If your wallet is so light that you need to skimp on oil, you probably shouldn't have bought a TL.
I got this oil for free. I have plenty of money lol I just figured I wouldn't let it go to waste....if it meets spec then I don't see why not.
Last edited by Steven Bell; May 31, 2017 at 02:43 PM.
Reason: Insulting name removed. PM sent to the OP.
There is no reasoning. It meets minimum required specifications, judging by what's written on the bottle. That means your engine likely won't grenade itself any time soon.
Lol at the other guy thinking he gets semi synthetic when he goes to an Acura dealer for an oil change. Also, semi synthetic is a bit misleading. Generally what it means is a Dino based oil refined to the point where it shows synthetic qualities. But it's not actually synthetic. Ah, marketing.
Also, bob is the oil guy is a bunch of people who may or may not know stuff, posting about oil. Sorry, but unless all data is coming strictly from a manufacturer and it's not being skewed in any fashion by the manufacturer, there's just a lot of non scientific, trying to be scientific, opinion on there. Also, isn't bob is the oil guy sponsored by Amsoil? Yeah, I'm sure there's no bias there.
take it for what you will, but the engine will be just fine for daily driving purposes on that oil. Unless, of course, you have scientific proof stating otherwise.
It's totally okay with me if you remain ignorant; if you read the actual 5W-20 specifications from the late 1990s you will see plenty of confirmation of what I wrote earlier; heck you might even learn something (perish the thought).
I got this oil for free ya clown I have plenty of money lol I just figured I wouldn't let it go to waste....if it meets spec then I don't see why not.
I don't know if Sam's Club is the same as Supertech at Walmart (Most likely), but Supertech is refined by Shell with a similar additive package. At least accordingly to Bob is the oil guy. Take it for what it's worth! Really up to you!
I used to be a whore and solely use Amsoil in my cars... Because it's the bestest. $15 a quart here, and my civic for example would need 4 bottles for an oil change, and likely 2 additional bottles due to oil consumption and hitting VTEC all day, everyday. What a waste of money.
I ended up switching to castrol edge which I could get at Costco for like $6 a quart and I've never had issues... I was burning $9 per quart extra with that Amsoil stuff, for what, so the 10th owner of that car can push the engine to 600,000km instead of 550,000km before it dies? Who cares? If anything, I'm willing to bet the car will end up in the junk yard for any other reason, before the engine even dies.
do regular oil changes and the J series engine will roll on forever. Would I normally use that discount oil posted in here? No. But that's because spending $40 bucks on oil isn't breaking the bank for me. However, if I was in a pinch and I had nothing else available, yeah, I'd use it. Instead of waiting for the maintenance minder to get to 15%, I might change with like 30% remaining, and that's about it.
Honda specifically built the J series engine to be an appliance. It needs very little. It may not produce the craziest power, but it will run forever. Guys here treat it like its a hand built AMG engine, or something. Cmon...
I know now you'll argue, oh but castrol edge is still better than whatever was posted here. I'm sure it is. But I just wanted to illustrate how marketing and our own minds trick us into believing something is way better, even though it isn't necessarily. Again, that oil meets all current standards. Sams club didn't make it. Someone else did and just put Sams club logo on the bottle.
No thanks, I'll stick to using Mobil 1 synthetic because I like the added peace of mind knowing I'm not running some min spec dino oil. Another friendly reminder that OP asked for opinions and I gave mine. Not sure why there's so much salt all of a sudden.
It's totally okay with me if you remain ignorant; if you read the actual 5W-20 specifications from the late 1990s you will see plenty of confirmation of what I wrote earlier; heck you might even learn something (perish the thought).
why are you getting so butthurt about this?
also, show me which oils from the 1990s are still on the shelves today, in 2017. Cmon, I'll wait.
still waiting for for all your evidence on how that oil is bad. Tick.. Tock...
No thanks, I'll stick to using Mobil 1 synthetic because I like the added peace of mind knowing I'm not running some min spec dino oil. Another friendly reminder that OP asked for opinions and I gave mine. Not sure why there's so much salt all of a sudden.
You do know that M1 isn't all that great, right? There are many higher quality oils out there
also, show me which oils from the 1990s are still on the shelves today, in 2017. Cmon, I'll wait.
still waiting for for all your evidence on how that oil is bad. Tick.. Tock...
I don't understand your logic.
I'll say it again for the cheap seats; the 5W-20 oil spec, going back to its inception requires the use of some synthetic oil in it's base stock. Twist my words any way you want, the fact remains, any certified 5W-20 bought at any time from when it first came out until today has some synthetic oil in the base stocks.
I'll say it again for the cheap seats; the 5W-20 oil spec, going back to its inception requires the use of some synthetic oil in it's base stock. Twist my words any way you want, the fact remains, any certified 5W-20 bought at any time from when it first came out until today has some synthetic oil in the base stocks.
according to what I just read on bob is the oil guy, that isn't true
but again, I don't trust much of that site. It's a bunch of guys with a bunch of opinions. Take it for what it's worth
I don't know if Sam's Club is the same as Supertech at Walmart (Most likely), but Supertech is refined by Shell with a similar additive package. At least accordingly to Bob is the oil guy. Take it for what it's worth! Really up to you!
The last time I checked, Super Tech semi-syn 5w20 was refined by Warren Distribution (and it's a fine oil, specs directly comparable to M1 and other name brand semi-syn 5w20 semi-syn oils).
Originally Posted by alexb92
By this logic, go ahead and run the cheapest 87 gas and use low quality aftermarket replacement parts. This isn't a 90's Civic with a 1.6L, even though they're cheaper to buy nowadays. Let's see how long the car lasts.
Been running 87 octane for the last 7 years/ 160K miles now (265K total mileage), still going strong
OP, I wouldn't put 5w30 in my J32A, but that's just my preference. It's got nothing to do with the brand. The truth be told, oil is now so good that any oil that meets OEM specs, be it DINO or semi-syn, will be fine.
Personally, I run whatever 5w20 semi-syn is on sale. My MID intervals are 7500 miles / 3 months. Here's the deal: In any period of 3 months, you can find a name brand name semi-syn on sale for ~$12 for a 5-qt jug. It's that simple. Just buy semi-syn on sale!!!
Last May, I bought 8 5qt jugs of Super Tech 5w20 on sale from WalMart for $8.61/jug... I just don't see a reason to run DINO oil when semi-syn can be had for $12 or less.
The last time I checked, Super Tech semi-syn 5w20 was refined by Warren Distribution (and it's a fine oil, specs directly comparable to M1 and other name brand semi-syn 5w20 semi-syn oils).
Been running 87 octane for the last 7 years/ 160K miles now (265K total mileage), still going strong
OP, I wouldn't put 5w30 in my J32A, but that's just my preference. It's got nothing to do with the brand. The truth be told, oil is now so good that any oil that meets OEM specs, be it DINO or semi-syn, will be fine.
Personally, I run whatever 5w20 semi-syn is on sale. My MID intervals are 7500 miles / 3 months. Here's the deal: In any period of 3 months, you can find a name brand name semi-syn on sale for ~$12 for a 5-qt jug. It's that simple. Just buy semi-syn on sale!!!
Last May, I bought 8 5qt jugs of Super Tech 5w20 on sale from WalMart for $8.61/jug... I just don't see a reason to run DINO oil when semi-syn can be had for $12 or less.
His oil was free. His question is whether he'll be fine to use it.
Yes, is the rational answer, IMO.
Speaking of rational...his oil being free is an infinite percentage cheaper than $12 semi syn. I divided by zero. ONCE.
