Oil change
I wrote this a little while ago. I've added a few things for your reading. Hope it helps.
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Mobil 1 oil (5W/20) is fine and the Mobil 1 filter to use is the M1-104... this is the combination I use. You can usually get both at Autozone.
Get some Rhino composite ramps or make your own out of stacked 2X10's (I have both). Warm the engine up some by driving the car a little (not hot, though). Drive up on the ramps, put your drain pan under the oil pan, remove the oil filler cap on the engine, then remove the drain plug and let it all drain out into your drain pan.
Once the oil has drained from the oil pan, put a new aluminum washer on the drain plug and put it back in, torquing it to 29 ft/lbs (or 360 inch/lbs). Loosen the old filter enough where you can then remove it by hand. Get a 1-gallon ZipLock bag and put it completely over the old filter and up over the pickup fitting, then continue to remove the filter. The ZipLock bag will catch the residual oil in the pickup and the galleries leading to it. Hold the ZipLock bag in this position for a minute or so to get as much of the oil as possible (helps to keep it from dripping all over the place.
Once the old filter is removed, wipe the mating facing of the oil pickup with a paper towel. Spread a light coat of new oil on the rubber gasket of the new filter and thread it on to the pickup nipple until the gasket contacts the pickup. Then turn it another 3/4's of a turn.
NOTE: Before installing the new filter, check the engine oil pickup fitting to be certain the rubber gasket from the old filter did not stick to it. Sometimes this can happen and if it does, you can loose oil and oil pressure and loose your engine.
Now using a funnel, pour 4 1/2 quarts of the new oil into the engine, put the filler cap back on and you're done. Start the engine, wait about 20-30 seconds (make sure that the low/no oil light goes out), and rev the engine up to 2000-2500 RPM for 10 seconds or so. Then turn the engine off, get back under the car, and check for any signs of leakage around the filter and the drain plug.
You're done. Really, this is a very simple and relatively clean job with this car. I take my time when I do it and it takes me about 40 minutes including setup time.
Doing it yourself means you know it was done right (assuming YOU did it right). Also, YOU control the mess and the greasey hands-on-steering-wheel-and-such, not some mechanic who doesn't have the same feelings about your car that you do.
==================================================
Mobil 1 oil (5W/20) is fine and the Mobil 1 filter to use is the M1-104... this is the combination I use. You can usually get both at Autozone.
Get some Rhino composite ramps or make your own out of stacked 2X10's (I have both). Warm the engine up some by driving the car a little (not hot, though). Drive up on the ramps, put your drain pan under the oil pan, remove the oil filler cap on the engine, then remove the drain plug and let it all drain out into your drain pan.
Once the oil has drained from the oil pan, put a new aluminum washer on the drain plug and put it back in, torquing it to 29 ft/lbs (or 360 inch/lbs). Loosen the old filter enough where you can then remove it by hand. Get a 1-gallon ZipLock bag and put it completely over the old filter and up over the pickup fitting, then continue to remove the filter. The ZipLock bag will catch the residual oil in the pickup and the galleries leading to it. Hold the ZipLock bag in this position for a minute or so to get as much of the oil as possible (helps to keep it from dripping all over the place.
Once the old filter is removed, wipe the mating facing of the oil pickup with a paper towel. Spread a light coat of new oil on the rubber gasket of the new filter and thread it on to the pickup nipple until the gasket contacts the pickup. Then turn it another 3/4's of a turn.
NOTE: Before installing the new filter, check the engine oil pickup fitting to be certain the rubber gasket from the old filter did not stick to it. Sometimes this can happen and if it does, you can loose oil and oil pressure and loose your engine.
Now using a funnel, pour 4 1/2 quarts of the new oil into the engine, put the filler cap back on and you're done. Start the engine, wait about 20-30 seconds (make sure that the low/no oil light goes out), and rev the engine up to 2000-2500 RPM for 10 seconds or so. Then turn the engine off, get back under the car, and check for any signs of leakage around the filter and the drain plug.
You're done. Really, this is a very simple and relatively clean job with this car. I take my time when I do it and it takes me about 40 minutes including setup time.
Doing it yourself means you know it was done right (assuming YOU did it right). Also, YOU control the mess and the greasey hands-on-steering-wheel-and-such, not some mechanic who doesn't have the same feelings about your car that you do.
i assume the 3G engine is very similar to the 2G engine, it helps if you take of the right front wheel if you just jacking the car up to get under it and not putting it on a real lift, easier to get to the oil filter especially. just my .02
https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/snl-134309/
I don't usually bring up the search thing, but you have been here for a while so it's not like I'm picking on a
I don't usually bring up the search thing, but you have been here for a while so it's not like I'm picking on a

Please don't bother taking off the right front wheel. The filter is easy to get to with the wheel in place, and if you take the wheel off and are sticking your hand, arm or head in the wheel well when the car falls of the jack it could ruin your whole day. my .02.
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