I am still doing an analysis of the long term cost of the TL.
One thing I was looking at was oil changes. At Wal-Mart, the cost of a generic brand change is 11.99. Now is it ok to use the generic brand old at Wal-Mart for a TL? The guy there says that different brands of non-synthetic oil is all the same except they come in different boxes. Will generic brand cause any harm or damage the engine?

 

Many may argue, but almost any oil is good as long as you don't abuse it or leave it in the engine past its prime. The question is how long is that. There have been several studies that showed do it 3k miles and you can put almost anything in there. And actually today I would say you can proabably go longer. I am anal and don't mind spending a few $$ to protect my investment. I use Mobil1 synthitic and chabge it every 3k miles. Read this link:
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
And you will think twice now and go longer. I am considering letting the Mobil 1 stay in 4k min and maybe 5k. I am also going to use Mobil1 0w-20 since I don't think they make a 5w-20 and 0w-20 is actually better at initial start up. The TL manual basically says do not change you oil engine the service inicator says so.

 

KiethL,
That's a great site. I have used about every synthetic out there and have finally settled on Amsoil after years of experience. IMHO I feel it's the best out there. Not that Mobil1 or Red Line are poor products, they are excellent also. Red Line would be my second choice.
I use Amsoil 0W-30 in the wife's '01 turbo beetle and in my '97 Yukon since new. The 0W-30 is a 1yr/35K oil. To last that long it has the absolute best additive's available anywhere (Germany).
My feeling is oil doesn't wear out, additives do, then the oil goes to hell in a handbasket after the additives wear out. I do oil analysis, have a bypass system on the Yukon. The engine is as quiet as the day I bought it new.
I plan on the same for the TL, get it next week hopefully. Don't think there is room in the engine area for a bypassy system but I will look.
Craig

 

If cost is your primary concern, buy the cheapest oil that is API certified as required by the owners manual. I had a lease and I used the Wal-Mart brand oil and it ran fine (although I turned it in with only 40K miles). A 5-quart bottle was $3.96.

I would use a name brand oil, but to each his (or her) own.

Don

 

The real question about Walmart oil is, who makes it for them. Obviously they don't make it themselves and buy it from someone. I wouldn't be surprised if it's simply "rebadged" Quaker State or Pennzoil.

 

Hey man, I don't really know the answer, but be sure about what you are putting in your car. Do you really want to nickel and dime on something as inexpensive as an oil change or other general maintenance on a 35K car? Seems ok to spend a few extra clams to be sure. my .02

 

Remember all oil specs are the minimal performance requirements
specified by SAE/API/OEM. Many premium oils, especially synthetics exceed those specs. Low cost, bargain basement stuff barely make them. The difference is usually in the additive package in the oil. The cheap additives don't last long and you had better change oil every 2-3K. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR.
No free lunch here.
Craig

 

Wal-Mart generic for $11.99 vs Mobil 1 qt jug also at Wal-Mart $20

Best $8 investment that you can make. I always go around 7500 miles between syn changes I would never do that on dino oil.

If you ever have the opportunity to see the inside of an engine that has lived on dino oil all it's life you will see so much sludge build up that it would shock you.

 

I agree wholeheartedly on using good oil.

BUT, I disagree on changing every 3k. Why would Honda set the interval further on the reminder? Because they know what's necessary to keep up your car properly.

I've changed the oil on the Honda intervals for the last three Hondas I've owned with excellent results. I love not keeping an eye on my mileage any more - I just wait to be reminded by the car!

One last anecdotal evidence. Consumer Reports did an exhaustive oil change interval a few years ago, working in conjunction with a NYC cab company. Even in high-stress cab driving, CR concluded that changing the oil at less than 5k intervals was a waste of money.

Your mileage may vary...

 

I just turned in a 00 Avalon. For the first time ever I missed an oil change (I know I was stupid and I won't bore you with my excuses), the engine sludged and I needed a complete rebuild (valves and rings) at 26,000 km. Toyota had problems with that year's engine and eventually I got a refund for the $3,500 I spent on the rebuild. I was meticulous regarding oil changes after that and the engine sludged again (burning 3 litres of oil in 1000 km-3 quarts in 600 miles) just before the lease was up.

I had a lot of discussions with the service advisor after both problems. Toyota, and I suspect most manufacturers, will not repair an engine under warranty if the oil has not been changed in accordance with the service schedule. However, I was advised that if you have the bills from anyone confirming the oil changes, they are pretty much stuck repairing the vehicle under warranty. I had a couple of oil changes from RapidLube after the first repair and Toyota agreed I had maintained the engine and didn't even attempt to blame the second sludging on me. They took the car at the end of the lease and returned my full security deposit.

The lessons I learned. First, get your oil changes and other service at the same dealer if at all possible. The service advisor gets to know you and will really go to bat for you if there is a problem. Second, if you don't have time to get to a dealer go to one of the quick lube places rather than exceed the service schedules. If you go to the dealer and the quick lube places, they can get computer printouts to confirm service even if you lose the invoices. Third, make copies of your service invoices just in case you lose the originals.

With the TL the oil changes are dictated by the service reminders. I intend to have whoever changes my oil note the amount of oil life showing on the MID on the invoice for the oil change. I think that is the only way I can confirm that the changes were done on schedule. For the first change I am going to let the oil life run down to about 5% but after that I am going to change oil at 15% or higher.