Nokya fog light bulbs
#1
Nokya fog light bulbs
Hey guys i just installed a new lightbulb for my 05 NBP fog. I put in a NOKYA 80 watts Arctic Purple 8500K Stage 2. u guys should change out ur stock for one of these. THEY LOOK GREAT. I'll put some pics up when i get the chance. I got them from EBAY for cheap. They give u a choice of color and temperature too. There's Arctic Purple, Cosmic White, and Arctic White. Make sure u get the Stage 2 80 Watts if u get the Stage 1 it's only 55 watts.. it's not bright enough
Here's the link
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories
Here's the link
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories
#5
I bought 5000k ones from ebay. total cost was 7.99 shipped they are no Nokya but hey its half the price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9006-...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9006-...Q5fAccessories
#7
My Garage not
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,121
Likes: 4
From: Westsiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiide
nokya are the best aftermarket fogs. i've tried a few different brands and either the fit is bad or the light output isn't as good as nokya. wish i'd known that before i wasted $100 on a few other crap brands.
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#8
WAIT!!! I advise you to really take those bulbs out! Stage I is what is recommended for our cars and for good reason. Stage II 80 watts is too much! They draw too much for the wiring to handle and burn hot. I know the risk is more with 100 watt bulbs but even with 80 the risks are there. I wouldn't recommend 10 watts more than OEM (65watts) to be on the safe side.
With 100 watts, I have seen people melt headlights, reflectors lose their reflective coating, harnesses melting, (that burnt plastic smell!) melted wiring and even underhood fires! Dangerous and costly mistakes to make.
If you really want to do 80 watts. (I did this safely on a car long ago) the least you should do is wire in a relay and separate in-line fuse. Just had to put a warning out there for you.
With 100 watts, I have seen people melt headlights, reflectors lose their reflective coating, harnesses melting, (that burnt plastic smell!) melted wiring and even underhood fires! Dangerous and costly mistakes to make.
If you really want to do 80 watts. (I did this safely on a car long ago) the least you should do is wire in a relay and separate in-line fuse. Just had to put a warning out there for you.
The following users liked this post:
BxTrini_TL (11-08-2013)
#9
+10^^^
WAIT!!! I advise you to really take those bulbs out! Stage I is what is recommended for our cars and for good reason. Stage II 80 watts is too much! They draw too much for the wiring to handle and burn hot. I know the risk is more with 100 watt bulbs but even with 80 the risks are there. I wouldn't recommend 10 watts more than OEM (65watts) to be on the safe side.
With 100 watts, I have seen people melt headlights, reflectors lose their reflective coating, harnesses melting, (that burnt plastic smell!) melted wiring and even underhood fires! Dangerous and costly mistakes to make.
If you really want to do 80 watts. (I did this safely on a car long ago) the least you should do is wire in a relay and separate in-line fuse. Just had to put a warning out there for you.
With 100 watts, I have seen people melt headlights, reflectors lose their reflective coating, harnesses melting, (that burnt plastic smell!) melted wiring and even underhood fires! Dangerous and costly mistakes to make.
If you really want to do 80 watts. (I did this safely on a car long ago) the least you should do is wire in a relay and separate in-line fuse. Just had to put a warning out there for you.
#13
WAIT!!! I advise you to really take those bulbs out! Stage I is what is recommended for our cars and for good reason. Stage II 80 watts is too much! They draw too much for the wiring to handle and burn hot. I know the risk is more with 100 watt bulbs but even with 80 the risks are there. I wouldn't recommend 10 watts more than OEM (65watts) to be on the safe side.
With 100 watts, I have seen people melt headlights, reflectors lose their reflective coating, harnesses melting, (that burnt plastic smell!) melted wiring and even underhood fires! Dangerous and costly mistakes to make.
If you really want to do 80 watts. (I did this safely on a car long ago) the least you should do is wire in a relay and separate in-line fuse. Just had to put a warning out there for you.
With 100 watts, I have seen people melt headlights, reflectors lose their reflective coating, harnesses melting, (that burnt plastic smell!) melted wiring and even underhood fires! Dangerous and costly mistakes to make.
If you really want to do 80 watts. (I did this safely on a car long ago) the least you should do is wire in a relay and separate in-line fuse. Just had to put a warning out there for you.
#16
Which is better (your personal opinion), purple or yellow?
More a performance question, than aesthetics... My WAG is that yellow cuts through mist/rain/fog better than purple, but wanted to hear from others' experiences.
More a performance question, than aesthetics... My WAG is that yellow cuts through mist/rain/fog better than purple, but wanted to hear from others' experiences.
Last edited by Chessie724; 12-10-2009 at 07:46 AM.
#22
hey i was wondering if someone could help me out.... i'm a little confused. I want to get these fog lights to match my stock xenons on my 07 TL-S..
NOKYA Arctic White Pro Halogen H8 (Stage II)
12V55W
High Wattage
7,000K
Manufactory Part #: H8
First off... will these be a good match to the stock xenons? and second, are these ok for my car? they're only rated at 55W which i'm almost postive should be ok.. thanks.
NOKYA Arctic White Pro Halogen H8 (Stage II)
12V55W
High Wattage
7,000K
Manufactory Part #: H8
First off... will these be a good match to the stock xenons? and second, are these ok for my car? they're only rated at 55W which i'm almost postive should be ok.. thanks.
#26
Stay Out Of the Left Lane
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,028
Likes: 1,251
From: SE Mass --- > Central VA --- > SE Mass
#27
#28
Stay Out Of the Left Lane
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,028
Likes: 1,251
From: SE Mass --- > Central VA --- > SE Mass
I will search eBay for the ones recommended above.
#35
Team Owner
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 36,545
Likes: 6,470
From: Kansas City, MO (Overland Park, KS)
Buddy, I'm sorry about that-I didn't proof my response before I posted. Didn't mean to make your heart stop for a second!!!! By the way, they're a bitch to get to (on the drivers side). The passenger side is easy, but we had to take out the battery to get to the DRL on the driver side. But the 2nd time we replaced the bulbs, we just took out the venting that is between the battery and the headlight assembly-that worked OK (without taking out the battery). It's just a cramped space.
#37
Team Owner
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 36,545
Likes: 6,470
From: Kansas City, MO (Overland Park, KS)
Buddy, you don't need to take out the battery for the foglights and the turn signals. You can get to both of those from the wheel wells. You only need to remove the battery for the DRL's.
#38