Need opinions on what to get!
Need opinions on what to get!
Hi guys, this is my first post here. Desperately need your advice. I currently drive a 96 Integra GS-R with 186xxx miles. It runs like a champ and has never given me any problems.
I will however, be starting a new longer commute and I am looking into getting something newer. I test drove a 07 CBP TL Type-S, (17,000 w/ 70k miles) which was amazing but sold the next damn day
Drove an 09 TSX 6spd a couple hours later and hated it. Nothing wrong with the car, it just had no power compared to the Type-S, and I just got done driving an 06 TL 6spd (06 w/ 85,700 miles) which I was really surprised by. I was under the impression that you needed a Type-S if you wanted a fast TL but the base 6spd felt like it had more than enough power for me.
With all that being said, what is my best course of action? Wait for a good deal on a Type-S (I highly prefer 6 speed) or go for either 1 of these (link included)
2006 Acura TL 6psd, Navi 68k miles, $16,000 1 owner
or
2006 Acura TL 6spd, Navi, 85k miles, $12,500 1 owner, new clutch This was the one I test drove today.
I'm not in the biggest rush to get something cause the Integra's runnin just fine but the 2nd TL I posted for $13k seems like an alright deal.
Financially, I very well could spend 20k for a nice low mileage type s, but I'd be making payments for the next 4-5 years. I'm a full-time student and that's probably not the smartest thing to do, no matter how much I love the Type S. I'd really like to spend under 17k. (the lower the better, just like it is for everybody lol)
Is there anything else I should know? Any reason I shouldn't consider a TL?
Lemme know if I can provide any more info on myself, look forward to being on these boards for the next few years!
I will however, be starting a new longer commute and I am looking into getting something newer. I test drove a 07 CBP TL Type-S, (17,000 w/ 70k miles) which was amazing but sold the next damn day
Drove an 09 TSX 6spd a couple hours later and hated it. Nothing wrong with the car, it just had no power compared to the Type-S, and I just got done driving an 06 TL 6spd (06 w/ 85,700 miles) which I was really surprised by. I was under the impression that you needed a Type-S if you wanted a fast TL but the base 6spd felt like it had more than enough power for me.
With all that being said, what is my best course of action? Wait for a good deal on a Type-S (I highly prefer 6 speed) or go for either 1 of these (link included)
2006 Acura TL 6psd, Navi 68k miles, $16,000 1 owner
or
2006 Acura TL 6spd, Navi, 85k miles, $12,500 1 owner, new clutch This was the one I test drove today.
I'm not in the biggest rush to get something cause the Integra's runnin just fine but the 2nd TL I posted for $13k seems like an alright deal.
Financially, I very well could spend 20k for a nice low mileage type s, but I'd be making payments for the next 4-5 years. I'm a full-time student and that's probably not the smartest thing to do, no matter how much I love the Type S. I'd really like to spend under 17k. (the lower the better, just like it is for everybody lol)
Is there anything else I should know? Any reason I shouldn't consider a TL?
Lemme know if I can provide any more info on myself, look forward to being on these boards for the next few years!
I personally say wait for the right Type S. If you decide you don't necessarily need the Type S though and a base model is good enough still get an 07 or 08 (only automatic available for base those years). The car was updated for those years and if your going to get a technically old car now might as well make it the latest and greatest of the generation.
I was in the same situation as you. F/T student, 6MT was a must, wanted Type S but didn't want car payments. The Type S, while nice isn't nice enough IMO to justify spending another 8-10k for one (which is what a clean 6MT Type S goes for). Grab the cheaper 06 Base w/Navi, you'll be happy. Either way going to be a huge step up from an Integra.
I'd go with one of the 06's- the mileage should not be the determining factor, but get the one that appears in the best condition. You indicated you're a student, so low payments should be a priority. I really like the look of a Type-S, but you can do some nice mods on the 06 on a budget (like appearance mods) if you're so inclined.
Most guys will say get a Type S, I would probably agree with that except for your limiting finances...get one of the 06s, the one in the best shape. These cars will run forever if you take care of it so mileage to a point isn't a factor.
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I was in the same situation as you. F/T student, 6MT was a must, wanted Type S but didn't want car payments. The Type S, while nice isn't nice enough IMO to justify spending another 8-10k for one (which is what a clean 6MT Type S goes for). Grab the cheaper 06 Base w/Navi, you'll be happy. Either way going to be a huge step up from an Integra.
I'd go with one of the 06's- the mileage should not be the determining factor, but get the one that appears in the best condition. You indicated you're a student, so low payments should be a priority. I really like the look of a Type-S, but you can do some nice mods on the 06 on a budget (like appearance mods) if you're so inclined.
Here's another question, if I'm going to go with a base TL (6spd, navi) out of the two posted above, is there any reason I should pay $3-4k more for the gray one with 69,xxx miles or will I be okay spending $11-12K on the RBP one with 85xxx miles ?
I've seen both in person (only drove the RBP 1 though) both bodies are in good shape interior and exterior and both are 1-owner dealer maintained cars.
My opinion:
-lower miles is always a plus, but is it worth the extra few grand for it? Doubtful.
Just realize the MID '4' service with the timing belt will come up sooner (in roughly 20K miles vs the other car that will take a bit longer to get there)
-Since you have familiarity with the RBP car (which incidentally looks VERY good based on the link photos), if it drove well and you were satisfied with it, I'd select that one.
-like I had mentioned, buy the car that meets your expectations and is priced according to what you can afford (low payments as a student is always a plus).
-Once you get to the mileage when the TB service is done, get it done, and plan on driving, worry free, for the next 100K, assuming you keep it that long.
I have an Anthracite car and really love the color, but the RBP car looks very nice- that color really pops and it has the 07+ TL base wheels on it.
Based on all of the above, get the RBP car. See if they'll accept $1000-1500 down from the posted price- then you'd have a really nice car at a bargain.
Don't be concerned about modding it extensively at first- get it, drive it for a while, and save up some cash, then see if you want some initial mods (personally, I'd start with an iSimple or USA spec to get an AUX input in the car so you can use Pandora in the car if you're so inclined).
One more thing...whatever car you decide on, take it out again for a shakedown cruise- backroad, highway, etc. Listen for any unusual noises or rattles. I recommend this because you may not have paid attention to any minor noises not really detected on the initial drive. If it passes all your checks, get it. These cars can really go the distance with minimal care. A new clutch is always a plus.
-lower miles is always a plus, but is it worth the extra few grand for it? Doubtful.
Just realize the MID '4' service with the timing belt will come up sooner (in roughly 20K miles vs the other car that will take a bit longer to get there)
-Since you have familiarity with the RBP car (which incidentally looks VERY good based on the link photos), if it drove well and you were satisfied with it, I'd select that one.
-like I had mentioned, buy the car that meets your expectations and is priced according to what you can afford (low payments as a student is always a plus).
-Once you get to the mileage when the TB service is done, get it done, and plan on driving, worry free, for the next 100K, assuming you keep it that long.
I have an Anthracite car and really love the color, but the RBP car looks very nice- that color really pops and it has the 07+ TL base wheels on it.
Based on all of the above, get the RBP car. See if they'll accept $1000-1500 down from the posted price- then you'd have a really nice car at a bargain.
Don't be concerned about modding it extensively at first- get it, drive it for a while, and save up some cash, then see if you want some initial mods (personally, I'd start with an iSimple or USA spec to get an AUX input in the car so you can use Pandora in the car if you're so inclined).
One more thing...whatever car you decide on, take it out again for a shakedown cruise- backroad, highway, etc. Listen for any unusual noises or rattles. I recommend this because you may not have paid attention to any minor noises not really detected on the initial drive. If it passes all your checks, get it. These cars can really go the distance with minimal care. A new clutch is always a plus.
Last edited by erdoc48; Feb 18, 2014 at 07:31 AM.
Working on closing up the deal with Radley Acura. Probably be picking her up sometime tomorrow! A big thanks to everyone who helped me out with my decision. I'll have some better quality pics up as soon as I get a chance.
As for mods, erdoc48 mentioned iSimple and thats definitely high on my list, considering I get that for a FAT discount working at Best Buy.
I also plan on adding a Viper Remote Start & Alarm system to it as well as tinting the windows.
What else is popular?
As for mods, erdoc48 mentioned iSimple and thats definitely high on my list, considering I get that for a FAT discount working at Best Buy.
I also plan on adding a Viper Remote Start & Alarm system to it as well as tinting the windows.
What else is popular?
Modding is personal and dependent on your needs and wants.
what the heck do you want from the car? obviously, you havent received the car yet, so you dont know in what areas you want to improve yet.
so, my suggestion would be to slow down and actually receive the car first.
then use your best buy discount to buy the isimple and alarm.
then tint the windows.
by then, you'll be more comfortable with the car to start making changes on your own.
In addition, you can browse acurazine and its millions of pages. There's gotta be some cool shit that you're interested in.
Remember, this car is now 10 years old.
everything that you want to know is here on this forum
what the heck do you want from the car? obviously, you havent received the car yet, so you dont know in what areas you want to improve yet.
so, my suggestion would be to slow down and actually receive the car first.
then use your best buy discount to buy the isimple and alarm.
then tint the windows.
by then, you'll be more comfortable with the car to start making changes on your own.
In addition, you can browse acurazine and its millions of pages. There's gotta be some cool shit that you're interested in.
Remember, this car is now 10 years old.
everything that you want to know is here on this forum
Last edited by justnspace; Feb 20, 2014 at 02:40 PM.
its not fun for the driver behind you, but it works.
plus, why would some one EVEN consider a manual if they didnt want to row their own gears?
I would say for $12,500 you did very well. Mine has 96K miles on it- every time I check its value on KBB, it makes me sad (but then again, I'm not selling so it shouldn't matter).
Very nice- I like the blue- I think I'd get that color if anything happened to my TL.
Very nice- I like the blue- I think I'd get that color if anything happened to my TL.
quick question guys, didn't wanna start a new thread over this but -
I just filled up for the first time to my calculations, I got 17 MPG. Granted it was my first time filling up so maybe I should wait but I texted a mechanic who works for Acura asking how much he'd charge for spark plugs and wires, PCV Valve, and fuel filter and he says that I don't need to worry about plugs until the mid 4 service, PCV valves don't go bad on these cars and that the fuel filter is built in with the fuel pump and doesn't need to be changed either.
I'm probably worrying and thinking too much lol
I just filled up for the first time to my calculations, I got 17 MPG. Granted it was my first time filling up so maybe I should wait but I texted a mechanic who works for Acura asking how much he'd charge for spark plugs and wires, PCV Valve, and fuel filter and he says that I don't need to worry about plugs until the mid 4 service, PCV valves don't go bad on these cars and that the fuel filter is built in with the fuel pump and doesn't need to be changed either.
I'm probably worrying and thinking too much lol
pohljm. I also Lol'd.
Congrats OP. Like pohljm said, average MPH is going to tell us if something is off.
Regarding the PCV valve, I'd recommend getting it replaced maybe every A/B3 or A/B4 service because the intake manifold system is kind of shit. A lot of oil finds its way into the intake through the PCV system (This will open a HUGE debate on what kind of oil to use, so I ask all of you experts to refrain from making this an oil debate lol), thus the PCV valve is at risk for getting oily and stuck. Definitely not a bad idea to replace it, especially since it's dirt cheap and even easier to replace than a spark plug or the air filter.
Using an oil with a low NOACK value will help keep things clean. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NOACK_Volatility_Test
Also, this car doesn't have plug wires because there isn't a distributor. Each plug has an individual coil pack. And yes, the plugs iridium so they last until the 105k service, assuming you still have the OEM ones in there.
You are definitely not worrying too much brah. You just got your baby and you are learning her mannerisms. Again, congrats!
Congrats OP. Like pohljm said, average MPH is going to tell us if something is off.
Regarding the PCV valve, I'd recommend getting it replaced maybe every A/B3 or A/B4 service because the intake manifold system is kind of shit. A lot of oil finds its way into the intake through the PCV system (This will open a HUGE debate on what kind of oil to use, so I ask all of you experts to refrain from making this an oil debate lol), thus the PCV valve is at risk for getting oily and stuck. Definitely not a bad idea to replace it, especially since it's dirt cheap and even easier to replace than a spark plug or the air filter.
Using an oil with a low NOACK value will help keep things clean. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NOACK_Volatility_Test
Also, this car doesn't have plug wires because there isn't a distributor. Each plug has an individual coil pack. And yes, the plugs iridium so they last until the 105k service, assuming you still have the OEM ones in there.
You are definitely not worrying too much brah. You just got your baby and you are learning her mannerisms. Again, congrats!
If you were expecting your MPG to be similar to your Integra....you bought the wrong car....especially in city driving. I doubt you need any of that maintenance done now. Change the fluids, learn the clutch, and enjoy the new ride.
There are lots of threads discussing MPG. Usually MPG is directly related to Avg MPH. 17MPG sounds about right if the bulk of your driving was stop & go and/or city under 35MPH. Or you are just having too much fun with a lead foot.
There are lots of threads discussing MPG. Usually MPG is directly related to Avg MPH. 17MPG sounds about right if the bulk of your driving was stop & go and/or city under 35MPH. Or you are just having too much fun with a lead foot.
Regarding the PCV valve, I'd recommend getting it replaced maybe every A/B3 or A/B4 service because the intake manifold system is kind of shit. A lot of oil finds its way into the intake through the PCV system (This will open a HUGE debate on what kind of oil to use, so I ask all of you experts to refrain from making this an oil debate lol), thus the PCV valve is at risk for getting oily and stuck. Definitely not a bad idea to replace it, especially since it's dirt cheap and even easier to replace than a spark plug or the air filter.
^ It's to get the blow-by past the piston rings from combustion back into the intake manifold. Definitely want to keep the motor oil in the crank case.
Edit: The EGR doesn't have anything to do with the PCV. EGR actually feeds exhaust gasses back into the intake.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ventilation_system
Edit: The EGR doesn't have anything to do with the PCV. EGR actually feeds exhaust gasses back into the intake.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ventilation_system
Last edited by Vlad_Type_S; Mar 5, 2014 at 10:48 AM.
quick question guys, didn't wanna start a new thread over this but -
I just filled up for the first time to my calculations, I got 17 MPG. Granted it was my first time filling up so maybe I should wait but I texted a mechanic who works for Acura asking how much he'd charge for spark plugs and wires, PCV Valve, and fuel filter and he says that I don't need to worry about plugs until the mid 4 service, PCV valves don't go bad on these cars and that the fuel filter is built in with the fuel pump and doesn't need to be changed either.
I'm probably worrying and thinking too much lol
I just filled up for the first time to my calculations, I got 17 MPG. Granted it was my first time filling up so maybe I should wait but I texted a mechanic who works for Acura asking how much he'd charge for spark plugs and wires, PCV Valve, and fuel filter and he says that I don't need to worry about plugs until the mid 4 service, PCV valves don't go bad on these cars and that the fuel filter is built in with the fuel pump and doesn't need to be changed either.
I'm probably worrying and thinking too much lol
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Congrats!
