When braking above 50–60mph & above I get a massive sway and pulls to the right and almost feels like I will lose control.

My gut says it’s a brake issue with it only happening when I brake at higher speeds. Maybe a caster issue???
Alignment is within spec except front right camber out about -2 degrees
I’ve had it aligned 4-5 times each time I put on new parts.

I have checked front control arms and bushings, spindle for damage etc. even replaced the front struts because I thought maybe there was a bent strut

This is what I’ve done so far to try and make it go away.

New struts front and rear
New inner & outer tie rods both sides
All 4 new calipers brakes & rotors
New front rubber hose brake lines driver & Pass
New upper & lower ball joints driver & pass front.
New front speed sensors-got some bad codes so I replaced them,,
All new sway bar links front and rear
New Ingram control arms & lower control arms rear.
All torqued to spec with load as the service manual says to do.
Ive bled the brakes literally about 5 times now
starting with pass rear then driver rear, then pass front and last driver front. All while making sure MC topped off between each caliper bled.
Replaced driver side half shaft.

No steering issues, no noises or clunking, it rides nice and smooth. Steering does not jerk or bump steer. Nice and tight.

I am at a loss, not safe to drive it this way, has anyone else ever had this issue. I seen a couple threads and it ended up being stuck calipers. Mine are new and I checked them for any signs of sticking.

HELP!

 

very interesting...
Right off the bat, I was going to say; alignment, front and rear sway bar, and perhaps a sticking caliper....
but alas, it looks like you changed all of that.

Another thing that popped into my head was the compliance bushings or the A-arm bushings. but it looks like you changed the a-arms out.

Very interested in what others may suggest or what you may find by digging deeper.

 

If it is a braking issue then either one caliper is pulling too hard, or one isn't pulling hard enough. Either way, if you go out for a drive, do some hard braking, and then test the temperatures of the brakes, you should see a significant difference in heat.

 

Do you have a lot of weight in the trunk?

 

no. Just a small 10” sub and amp

 

Do you feel the direct pull in the steering wheel? Or does it feel like a secondary pull with the initial pull being from the rear?

 

Try swapping wheels/tyres around? side to side, front to back?

 

Check those rear control arms. I once suffered from that same malady.
.
.

 

[I replace rear control arms with ingrams. Had it aligned. Only swaying and pulling when I brake at I’ve 50mph.


QUOTE=DMZ;16720758]Check those rear control arms. I once suffered from that same malady.
.
.[/QUOTE]

 

No direct pull on the steering wheel.

it drives and steers great. When I brake at 50mph and over. The really big sway starts in the back and the the pulls ends in the front slowing the pull to the right side.

I have directional tires so I will have to swap them front to back on the same side which was already done but I will try it again.

 

Like @horseshoez stated, could be on rear caliper
braking harder than the other. Fortunately they are a dime a dozen online/junkyards.

 

it has all 4 brand new calipers, rotors and pads. So if one is braking harder in the rear, I will take it back and exchange it.

i was able to correct the bad sway as I had not followed the “Honda” brake bleed sequence. Never heard of bleeding brakes this way but Honda calls for Driver front, pass front, pass rear then driver rear. Just doesn’t make sense to me but it worked. Probably has something to do with the VSA & ABS control modules.

Sway is gone now so hopefully this helps someone else. It’s always simple stuff….also got rid of the pull to right when braking. Re bled the driver front caliper.

• I think I’m still going to get the thermal laser thermometer to check all the rotors and make sure they are all about the same temp.thanks for all the replies and suggestions!
  

 

Yes, The bleed sequence on this car is 180 degrees opposite from what I ever learned. Always start at the farthest caliper..............not on the TL. I always have to remember that.