Looking to get the 3G TL, researching for problems
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Looking to get the 3G TL, researching for problems
What's up 3Ger's. I currently have a 2G and my tranny just died yesterday. Just wanted to check in to see if there are any problems with the 3G that I should know about before getting it. Thanks in advance!
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I was thinking just a regular TL 6MT. Can't afford a TL-S though. Other than the 04, no other year has tranny problems? My budget may be 20g's
#6
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (1)
if your budget is around 20k, i would say get an 06 MT.
#7
Senior Moderator
3G garage is your friend. Here are a few TSB's:
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B04-020.PDF
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B05-013.PDF
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B05-043.PDF
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B07-017.PDF
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/b08-013.pdf
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/b08-016.pdf
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/b08-018.pdf
These are some of the main one's. You can view all the TSB's/Recalls here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-technical-service-bulletins-tsbs-3g-garage-j-016-a-613659/
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B04-020.PDF
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B05-013.PDF
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B05-043.PDF
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B07-017.PDF
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/b08-013.pdf
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/b08-016.pdf
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/b08-018.pdf
These are some of the main one's. You can view all the TSB's/Recalls here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-technical-service-bulletins-tsbs-3g-garage-j-016-a-613659/
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#11
Standard warranty for Acura is 50k miles or 5yrs.
As for the 6MT, the 3rd gear synchro could be an issue on any year. My 05 had the problem and they replaced the synchro under warranty with very little hassle. I did have it checked out twice. The second time they experineced the problem during a test drive and all was well after that...
There is also an easy fix to try first if your out of warranty. Simply drain the trans fluid and replace it with "General Motors Synchromesh Friction Modified". The friction modifiers make the sychros work smoother. From what I've read, pretty much everyone who's tried it has had the issue resolved...
As for the 6MT, the 3rd gear synchro could be an issue on any year. My 05 had the problem and they replaced the synchro under warranty with very little hassle. I did have it checked out twice. The second time they experineced the problem during a test drive and all was well after that...
There is also an easy fix to try first if your out of warranty. Simply drain the trans fluid and replace it with "General Motors Synchromesh Friction Modified". The friction modifiers make the sychros work smoother. From what I've read, pretty much everyone who's tried it has had the issue resolved...
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
So I checked out an 05 TL today.Everything looked great, but when the hood was popped, the entire engine was allll corroded and rusted. Sales man said the car came from the east coast, so this is caused by snow?? Is this normal? This is the first i've heard of it.
#13
I Have A Meth Lab In
All, I'm not a total newb, but clicking on garage leads my to just posts of peoples rides. Specifically, I was looking for DIY's on how to wire my halo's. That said, searching for it in garage got nothing. Any tips?
myTaLiza, it depends on where on the east coast the car came from. East could be Georgia, or New York, and they use a lot of salt in NY. Still, if you could see corrosion under the hood, run like hell. A 4 year old car won't be perfect; in fact dusty might be a better word for looking under the hood, but not corroded. Corrosion is caused by salt, not snow.
myTaLiza, it depends on where on the east coast the car came from. East could be Georgia, or New York, and they use a lot of salt in NY. Still, if you could see corrosion under the hood, run like hell. A 4 year old car won't be perfect; in fact dusty might be a better word for looking under the hood, but not corroded. Corrosion is caused by salt, not snow.
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
No thanks man. Only looking for a manual. Plus, needs to be a trade in because of my 03
#21
Senior Moderator
#22
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#23
TL only has VTEC on the intake valves so the sound won't be as noticable as say an Integra. If you have all the windows up and radio off in a TL, you can hear the engine roar change note, but it's pretty subtle due to the built in resonators on the intake plumbing...
If the VTEC transition point is placed properly in the ECU (and it is on this car), you shouldn't notice any sudden jump in torque when it hits (only a change in engine sound). The sudden bump in torque on some VTEC cars means the engagement is set too high. This has been done on purpose by the factory to simulate a "boost" effect that can impress younger drivers into buying the car. The fact is your simply loosing torque by running too long on the low cam.
If the VTEC transition point is placed properly in the ECU (and it is on this car), you shouldn't notice any sudden jump in torque when it hits (only a change in engine sound). The sudden bump in torque on some VTEC cars means the engagement is set too high. This has been done on purpose by the factory to simulate a "boost" effect that can impress younger drivers into buying the car. The fact is your simply loosing torque by running too long on the low cam.
Last edited by 94eg!; 07-29-2009 at 11:31 AM.
#24
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
TL only has VTEC on the intake valves so the sound won't be as noticable as say an Integra. If you have all the windows up and radio off in a TL, you can hear the engine roar change note, but it's pretty subtle due to the built in resonators on the intake plumbing...
If the VTEC transition point is placed properly in the ECU (and it is on this car), you shouldn't notice any sudden jump in torque when it hits (only a change in engine sound). The sudden bump in torque on some VTEC cars means the engagement is set too high. This has been done on purpose by the factory to simulate a "boost" effect that can impress younger drivers into buying the car. The fact is your simply loosing torque by running too long on the low cam.
If the VTEC transition point is placed properly in the ECU (and it is on this car), you shouldn't notice any sudden jump in torque when it hits (only a change in engine sound). The sudden bump in torque on some VTEC cars means the engagement is set too high. This has been done on purpose by the factory to simulate a "boost" effect that can impress younger drivers into buying the car. The fact is your simply loosing torque by running too long on the low cam.
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