So in my failed attempt to replace my front shocks due to the through bolt being rusted on and the other bolt on the fork (don't know the name) I was wondering how well does liquid wrench really work? I've sprayed the PB blaster on the bolts yesterday but I was thinking of getting the liquid wrench because I've read it works better.

To sum it up, if I spray the liquid wrench on now within two hours do you think it'll be ready to go? I've sprayed PB Blaster on the bolts yesterday so its been on there overnight. This is so frustratinggg....

 

probably wouldnt make a difference. could you get a torch in there to heat it up? Got a breaker bar or a cheater pipe handy? A regular length ratchet/wrench wont do the trick.

 

I haven't tried it yet after letting the PB blaster sit. I used a breaker bar with a ratchet but it wouldn't budge, the ratchet would just click and I don't want to strip another bolt. Also I don't have a torch which sucks... On, a positive note I got the pressure switches in haha the easiest part.

No one else used this stuff when they had a tough bolt?

 

PB Blaster seems to do the best job, I find.

Just don't snap your pinch bolt. It's the upper bolt that pinches your shock to the fork.
I snapped one, and lets just say it made the install hell.
I bought a whole bunch of expensive drill bits and removers to no avail. Ended up paying $60 (he gave me half price off since I helped him out) for a mechanic to take out the caliper, rotor, knuckle, and axle to remove the shock attached to the fork. He took the fork and strut to a workbench and knocked the pinch bolt out while heating it up.

Pain in the ass.

 

Thanks for the insight, I read this thread (link provided) and he put the PB blaster on 2 weeks before install and said that it made a big difference. I may just spray on another application today and then call it a day. Only two bolts on the fork stopping me from installing the shocks. Tried of the floating feeling while driving. I really want to attempt to take it off again but don't want to snap or strip the bolt.


https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/diy-ht-spec-coilver-install-dummies-any-other-suspension-3g-garage-d-091-a-816065/

 

I like PB blaster. On difficult bolts I would let it sit, wipe off excess, then heat slowly with a torch. That generally worked.

 

I may wait it out, or just take it to a mechanic. I really don't have the time to mess around with it right now. I mean it shouldn't take a mechanic that long since the shocks are assembled already so it shouldn't cost too much.

 

Snapped both of mine, had to tig weld a nut on several times and apply heat before getting them out, took about 18 hours to do the suspension, had to cut the bolts off the toe and camber arms too, what a hassle. On a side not the ISC coil overs are awesome.

 

Where did you go to get a replacement?

 

Yeah. Sometimes it is easiest to make it someone else's problem.

 

I've never had a problem with any of those bolts ..

Just give them a shot of PBlaster like a week before you do your work, wipe off any drips and then drive it like normal for a week.

When you start doing the work after the car is up on stands or a lift spray the bolts again before you start your disassembly, removing wheels etc.. by the time you get to the bolts they should come right out without any issues.

 

I'll try it once more, good point you make. It's only the pinch bolt on the driver side fork that won't budge but I did spray it a bunch on saturday and sunday and I won't have time to get to it until a week and a half from now, so the bumps in the road should help loosen it especially these milwaukee roads. Before I take it to the mechanic i'll try it again to see if it turns then i'll go from there.

Right, I just don't want to pay the money especially when I bought the shocks that are assembled already so it should be a basic unbolt, and re-bolt but noooooooo haha

 

Due Diligence, you're new here-welcome to the site.


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probably obvious but did you give the area around the bolt (what the bolt goes through) a few good wacks with a hammer??

 

Just my opinion here... I find it best to almost always use a six point socket when trying to remove nuts or bolts. It holds better, thus keeping you from rounding off the nut or bolt.

 

I assume that this is for bolts 16 and 21 -
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/auto-pa...peed-automatic

You are using 1/2" tools, right? It's unusual that your ratchet is clicking when torqued. As suggested by others, breaker bar, cheater bar, six-point sockets, PB Blaster, heating, etc. Try a punch with a nice wide end (1/4" or so) and whack the nut and the end of the bolt. If you have the clearance, try an impact driver with a dead blow hammer.

If all that fails, pay someone to loosen the bolts, as suggested, and do the rest of the job yourself.

p.s. how does it drive with the new pressure switches?

 

invest in impact! my life's been a whole lot easier since I invested in air tools

 

Kroil, best penetrating oil on the market (everybody has their own opinion). CRC and Loctite make a product called Freeze-off, spray on bolt area only..... Kroil, allow time for penetration, Freeze-off, 6 point socket, DONE.

 

PB Blaster, time, patience, Breaker bar, and/or an impact wrench if you've got it. Just be patient with it though or you'll strip bolts and make life a living hell. I see you're in WI so that probably explains why it's so much harder (salt/ice/rust etc.). Good luck!

 

Use air if you can. An air ratchet will do the trick.

 

Thanks for that!

Yep def tried that. I'm hoping driving around all these bumps in the road will help.

The only thing I haven't tried was heating it up but I sprayed it last week with PB and liquid wrench so when I have time I'll try it again. As for the switches I honestly can't tell a difference, it may shift a bit quicker? I have redline D4 ATF to put in once I have the time. Idk that'll prolly make more of a difference.

I may see if I can get ahold of an impact I'm just afraid of splitting the bolt. Thanks!