Liquid Wrench?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Liquid Wrench?
So in my failed attempt to replace my front shocks due to the through bolt being rusted on and the other bolt on the fork (don't know the name) I was wondering how well does liquid wrench really work? I've sprayed the PB blaster on the bolts yesterday but I was thinking of getting the liquid wrench because I've read it works better.
To sum it up, if I spray the liquid wrench on now within two hours do you think it'll be ready to go? I've sprayed PB Blaster on the bolts yesterday so its been on there overnight. This is so frustratinggg....
To sum it up, if I spray the liquid wrench on now within two hours do you think it'll be ready to go? I've sprayed PB Blaster on the bolts yesterday so its been on there overnight. This is so frustratinggg....
#2
the overexplainer
probably wouldnt make a difference. could you get a torch in there to heat it up? Got a breaker bar or a cheater pipe handy? A regular length ratchet/wrench wont do the trick.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
No one else used this stuff when they had a tough bolt?
Last edited by Steven Bell; 03-24-2014 at 07:40 PM. Reason: Merged Posts
#4
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
PB Blaster seems to do the best job, I find.
Just don't snap your pinch bolt. It's the upper bolt that pinches your shock to the fork.
I snapped one, and lets just say it made the install hell.
I bought a whole bunch of expensive drill bits and removers to no avail. Ended up paying $60 (he gave me half price off since I helped him out) for a mechanic to take out the caliper, rotor, knuckle, and axle to remove the shock attached to the fork. He took the fork and strut to a workbench and knocked the pinch bolt out while heating it up.
Pain in the ass.
Just don't snap your pinch bolt. It's the upper bolt that pinches your shock to the fork.
I snapped one, and lets just say it made the install hell.
I bought a whole bunch of expensive drill bits and removers to no avail. Ended up paying $60 (he gave me half price off since I helped him out) for a mechanic to take out the caliper, rotor, knuckle, and axle to remove the shock attached to the fork. He took the fork and strut to a workbench and knocked the pinch bolt out while heating it up.
Pain in the ass.
Last edited by guitarplayer16; 03-23-2014 at 10:21 AM.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
PB Blaster seems to do the best job, I find.
Just don't snap your pinch bolt. It's the upper bolt that pinches your shock to the fork.
I snapped one, and lets just say it made the install hell.
I bought a whole bunch of expensive drill bits and removers to no avail. Ended up paying $60 (he gave me half price off since I helped him out) for a mechanic to take out the caliper, rotor, knuckle, and axle to remove the shock attached to the fork. He took the fork and strut to a workbench and knocked the pinch bolt out while heating it up.
Pain in the ass.
Just don't snap your pinch bolt. It's the upper bolt that pinches your shock to the fork.
I snapped one, and lets just say it made the install hell.
I bought a whole bunch of expensive drill bits and removers to no avail. Ended up paying $60 (he gave me half price off since I helped him out) for a mechanic to take out the caliper, rotor, knuckle, and axle to remove the shock attached to the fork. He took the fork and strut to a workbench and knocked the pinch bolt out while heating it up.
Pain in the ass.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/diy-ht-spec-coilver-install-dummies-any-other-suspension-3g-garage-d-091-a-816065/
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
I may wait it out, or just take it to a mechanic. I really don't have the time to mess around with it right now. I mean it shouldn't take a mechanic that long since the shocks are assembled already so it shouldn't cost too much.
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#8
Instructor
Snapped both of mine, had to tig weld a nut on several times and apply heat before getting them out, took about 18 hours to do the suspension, had to cut the bolts off the toe and camber arms too, what a hassle. On a side not the ISC coil overs are awesome.
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Where did you go to get a replacement?
#10
One on the right for me
Yeah. Sometimes it is easiest to make it someone else's problem.
#11
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (3)
I've never had a problem with any of those bolts ..
Just give them a shot of PBlaster like a week before you do your work, wipe off any drips and then drive it like normal for a week.
When you start doing the work after the car is up on stands or a lift spray the bolts again before you start your disassembly, removing wheels etc.. by the time you get to the bolts they should come right out without any issues.
Just give them a shot of PBlaster like a week before you do your work, wipe off any drips and then drive it like normal for a week.
When you start doing the work after the car is up on stands or a lift spray the bolts again before you start your disassembly, removing wheels etc.. by the time you get to the bolts they should come right out without any issues.
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Due_Diligence (03-24-2014)
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
I've never had a problem with any of those bolts ..
Just give them a shot of PBlaster like a week before you do your work, wipe off any drips and then drive it like normal for a week.
When you start doing the work after the car is up on stands or a lift spray the bolts again before you start your disassembly, removing wheels etc.. by the time you get to the bolts they should come right out without any issues.
Just give them a shot of PBlaster like a week before you do your work, wipe off any drips and then drive it like normal for a week.
When you start doing the work after the car is up on stands or a lift spray the bolts again before you start your disassembly, removing wheels etc.. by the time you get to the bolts they should come right out without any issues.
Right, I just don't want to pay the money especially when I bought the shocks that are assembled already so it should be a basic unbolt, and re-bolt but noooooooo haha
Last edited by Steven Bell; 03-24-2014 at 07:40 PM. Reason: Merged Posts
#13
Team Owner
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Due Diligence, you're new here-welcome to the site.
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Be sure to give it a try.
We have a Multi-Quote button. It's the middle icon in the lower right hand corner of each post. It allows you to respond to more than one person in a single reply. It will look like the post above.
Be sure to give it a try.
#15
Just my opinion here... I find it best to almost always use a six point socket when trying to remove nuts or bolts. It holds better, thus keeping you from rounding off the nut or bolt.
#16
Instructor
I assume that this is for bolts 16 and 21 -
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/auto-pa...peed-automatic
You are using 1/2" tools, right? It's unusual that your ratchet is clicking when torqued. As suggested by others, breaker bar, cheater bar, six-point sockets, PB Blaster, heating, etc. Try a punch with a nice wide end (1/4" or so) and whack the nut and the end of the bolt. If you have the clearance, try an impact driver with a dead blow hammer.
If all that fails, pay someone to loosen the bolts, as suggested, and do the rest of the job yourself.
p.s. how does it drive with the new pressure switches?
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/auto-pa...peed-automatic
You are using 1/2" tools, right? It's unusual that your ratchet is clicking when torqued. As suggested by others, breaker bar, cheater bar, six-point sockets, PB Blaster, heating, etc. Try a punch with a nice wide end (1/4" or so) and whack the nut and the end of the bolt. If you have the clearance, try an impact driver with a dead blow hammer.
If all that fails, pay someone to loosen the bolts, as suggested, and do the rest of the job yourself.
p.s. how does it drive with the new pressure switches?
#18
Advanced
Kroil, best penetrating oil on the market (everybody has their own opinion). CRC and Loctite make a product called Freeze-off, spray on bolt area only..... Kroil, allow time for penetration, Freeze-off, 6 point socket, DONE.
#19
Senior Moderator
PB Blaster, time, patience, Breaker bar, and/or an impact wrench if you've got it. Just be patient with it though or you'll strip bolts and make life a living hell. I see you're in WI so that probably explains why it's so much harder (salt/ice/rust etc.). Good luck!
#21
Racer
Thread Starter
Due Diligence, you're new here-welcome to the site.
We have a Multi-Quote button. It's the middle icon in the lower right hand corner of each post. It allows you to respond to more than one person in a single reply. It will look like the post above.
Be sure to give it a try.
We have a Multi-Quote button. It's the middle icon in the lower right hand corner of each post. It allows you to respond to more than one person in a single reply. It will look like the post above.
Be sure to give it a try.
I assume that this is for bolts 16 and 21 -
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/auto-pa...peed-automatic
You are using 1/2" tools, right? It's unusual that your ratchet is clicking when torqued. As suggested by others, breaker bar, cheater bar, six-point sockets, PB Blaster, heating, etc. Try a punch with a nice wide end (1/4" or so) and whack the nut and the end of the bolt. If you have the clearance, try an impact driver with a dead blow hammer.
If all that fails, pay someone to loosen the bolts, as suggested, and do the rest of the job yourself.
p.s. how does it drive with the new pressure switches?
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/auto-pa...peed-automatic
You are using 1/2" tools, right? It's unusual that your ratchet is clicking when torqued. As suggested by others, breaker bar, cheater bar, six-point sockets, PB Blaster, heating, etc. Try a punch with a nice wide end (1/4" or so) and whack the nut and the end of the bolt. If you have the clearance, try an impact driver with a dead blow hammer.
If all that fails, pay someone to loosen the bolts, as suggested, and do the rest of the job yourself.
p.s. how does it drive with the new pressure switches?
I may see if I can get ahold of an impact I'm just afraid of splitting the bolt. Thanks!
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