L-139: DIY Replace Battery in Switchblade Key
#1
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
L-139: DIY Replace Battery in Switchblade Key
If you have an Acura with a switchblade key, your battery is going to run out at some point so here is a DIY to help you take it apart and get it working again!
The one tool that will be vital is a precision 0 point Philips Screwdriver (available at any hardware store, it's a small 4 pointed screwdriver)
Here is a picture of the one I have and the Switchblade I'll be using:
Now on the bottom of the key under the chrome loop is the one screw you will need to remove to get access to the battery. Use the screwdriver and remove, use firm pressure and if it's really tight, first tighten then loosen to help break apart the loctite that is used to help hold the screw in tightly.
Removed:
Now you need to separate the remote from the key. Turn the key over so the Memory+ all the lettering is facing up. Press down on the chrome part and you will see the key split in 2 pieces along the center seam:
And here are your two pieces:
Now to separate the trim from the remote, press down on the trunk button or unlock button or lock button and it'll easily fall out from it's holder:
And this is what you have left:
Now this is the case that holds all the electronics for the remote and as well the battery:
This screw driver is pointing to the gap that you'll have to put your fingers in and pry apart to take the case apart. It's a pretty tight seal since the case is water-proof. (you'll see the gasket in the next few steps)
Use your thumbs!!! (don't mind the smudges, I did that to get rid of some ID info.
And now your remote is in 2 halves. In this photo the Negative side is facing up towards the camera (dotted side)
Pull up on the battery and put in a new one, this one reads Panasonic 1616 3V Japan:
The one tool that will be vital is a precision 0 point Philips Screwdriver (available at any hardware store, it's a small 4 pointed screwdriver)
Here is a picture of the one I have and the Switchblade I'll be using:
Now on the bottom of the key under the chrome loop is the one screw you will need to remove to get access to the battery. Use the screwdriver and remove, use firm pressure and if it's really tight, first tighten then loosen to help break apart the loctite that is used to help hold the screw in tightly.
Removed:
Now you need to separate the remote from the key. Turn the key over so the Memory+ all the lettering is facing up. Press down on the chrome part and you will see the key split in 2 pieces along the center seam:
And here are your two pieces:
Now to separate the trim from the remote, press down on the trunk button or unlock button or lock button and it'll easily fall out from it's holder:
And this is what you have left:
Now this is the case that holds all the electronics for the remote and as well the battery:
This screw driver is pointing to the gap that you'll have to put your fingers in and pry apart to take the case apart. It's a pretty tight seal since the case is water-proof. (you'll see the gasket in the next few steps)
Use your thumbs!!! (don't mind the smudges, I did that to get rid of some ID info.
And now your remote is in 2 halves. In this photo the Negative side is facing up towards the camera (dotted side)
Pull up on the battery and put in a new one, this one reads Panasonic 1616 3V Japan:
The following 11 users liked this post by csmeance:
abrieluno (12-21-2012),
bla8291 (01-29-2014),
cyberbro (10-11-2014),
eaglegreen48 (01-08-2013),
Munk (11-18-2021),
and 6 others liked this post.
The following users liked this post:
RoloTL (10-21-2013)
#6
Switchblade key for 2004-2008 TL
Check out this site, does that mean I can get a swtichblade key for my '05 TL? Anyone tried this?
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/Fastline-...-pr-64771.html
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/Fastline-...-pr-64771.html
#7
Can we get an OEM DIY Battery Replacement?
I'm looking at the bottom of it and there seems to be an indent where it might be possible to apply pressure for the part to split in halves.
Not taking the risk/chance. It's not something vital where I need to change it now, but just for future reference so that I may avoid going to the dealership. But, if that is the only way, thanks for the help
I'm looking at the bottom of it and there seems to be an indent where it might be possible to apply pressure for the part to split in halves.
Not taking the risk/chance. It's not something vital where I need to change it now, but just for future reference so that I may avoid going to the dealership. But, if that is the only way, thanks for the help
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#10
Check out this site, does that mean I can get a swtichblade key for my '05 TL? Anyone tried this?
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/Fastline-...-pr-64771.html
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/Fastline-...-pr-64771.html
#11
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Ontario, Canada
Age: 41
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Excellent post. I pulled out the controls part myself but didn't notice that it splits apart.
Pointer: Instead of your nails, try a coin. Very easy.
Pointer: Instead of your nails, try a coin. Very easy.
#13
Great post
Tried this and it works like a champ. Thanks!
Some post on other threads stated, mistakenly or "just joking," that the key battery charges when you use the key in the ignition. The fob for my BMW 330i works that way. It tells you in the manual to use your backup key from time to time to keep it charged. I assumed it was the same with my TL, because the key that was dead was my backup, which I almost never use.
It does seem strange that the one I use all the time is fine, but the battery in the other one went dead. Something going on there.
Some post on other threads stated, mistakenly or "just joking," that the key battery charges when you use the key in the ignition. The fob for my BMW 330i works that way. It tells you in the manual to use your backup key from time to time to keep it charged. I assumed it was the same with my TL, because the key that was dead was my backup, which I almost never use.
It does seem strange that the one I use all the time is fine, but the battery in the other one went dead. Something going on there.
#15
My key battery died 6 times before I went and bought a replacement key... new(used) key price was pretty much the equivalent of the 6 batteries that I replaced. I can now take this damn thing apart all the way down to just the immobilizer...
#17
Cruisin'
Thanks!!
Just wanted to thank you for the great DIY. Very helpful. My battery was finally going dead after 8 years of use and it was starting to get on my nerves having to hit the button so many times to get the doors to lock. Just replaced it tonight and it works great now. Funny how such little things can make you happy.
Also, I bought the battery on Amazon and got a pack of 5 for $6.99. I will keep one as a backup, but will never use the other 3. If anyone would like a battery, just hit me up with a PM with your address and I will send it out to you.
Also, I bought the battery on Amazon and got a pack of 5 for $6.99. I will keep one as a backup, but will never use the other 3. If anyone would like a battery, just hit me up with a PM with your address and I will send it out to you.
The following users liked this post:
jkirsh27 (01-29-2014)
#19
Instructor
any need to re-sync the fob with the car at all after replacing the battery? In the past when I asked the dealer about it they said they need both fobs so re sync to the car...were they BSing me?
#22
Racer
I was about to get a replacement fob and a spare... I thought it was the key going bad since it would only work completely randomly. This thread saved about $100 . Still gotta get that spare though.
#23
Replaced battery but still dead
I replaced keyfob with new battery and verified that battery is installed correctly. However, the light doesn't lite up and I've had no luck with it unlocking/locking my car.
Any ideas?? Can the keyfob just die completely? 2007 with 107K miles.
My second keyfob works fine, but my wife keeps that. I may just have to switch with hers.
I even tried "reprogramming" it via the turn on then off method to no avail either.
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
Any ideas?? Can the keyfob just die completely? 2007 with 107K miles.
My second keyfob works fine, but my wife keeps that. I may just have to switch with hers.
I even tried "reprogramming" it via the turn on then off method to no avail either.
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
#24
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
I replaced keyfob with new battery and verified that battery is installed correctly. However, the light doesn't lite up and I've had no luck with it unlocking/locking my car.
Any ideas?? Can the keyfob just die completely? 2007 with 107K miles.
My second keyfob works fine, but my wife keeps that. I may just have to switch with hers.
I even tried "reprogramming" it via the turn on then off method to no avail either.
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
Any ideas?? Can the keyfob just die completely? 2007 with 107K miles.
My second keyfob works fine, but my wife keeps that. I may just have to switch with hers.
I even tried "reprogramming" it via the turn on then off method to no avail either.
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
#25
sorry to revive a old thread, but wondering if the 07/08 key fobs could run a 2025 battery instead of a 1616?
ordering a new battery for the wife's truck, comes in a pack of 5 2025's, figured i'd replace all keyfobs while im at it
ordering a new battery for the wife's truck, comes in a pack of 5 2025's, figured i'd replace all keyfobs while im at it
#26
Senior Moderator
Try it, it's a few mils thicker so might not fit but won't hurt to try
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