JCL622

Today, against the howling and ferocious winds of the midwest, I still trekked 26 miles to get my UR pulley done. On the way, the roads were so icey, i thought i was doing a rally course.

(If you're here for the Fujita CAI comment just skip the story until you reach P2R part II)
If you're just here for the review scroll almost to the bottom
I have some questions I'd like people who HAVE the spacer on already, if you dont want to read this long post, please just scroll to the very bottom

[Anyway, for you STL members who are close to the St. Louis area, HTP racing is a great place to get your stuff done. A number of AZ members already go there, which is how I got the info:
2010 Key West Dr
Arnold, MO 63010
(636) 282-4007
Ask for Matt] - my pulley came off relatively easy, and he charges by the hour, about $82/hr ~ i was a bit less than an hour and ended up paying $55.65

on the way back, I'm not sure if it was the relief of getting the install done, or if this is an actual fact, but it felt like I had better control. - i'm thinking it's possibly due to the fact that the the wheels are getting more power and the tires are "gripping" faster/stronger?....

anyway as I'm going back the sleet from hell restarted. As much of a headache as it was to drive back, I figured the P2R TB spacer could be done relatively fast so at this point i was racing against the sunset + inc hail/sleet. lol needless to say, pulling the tubing off for the Fujita was easy, getting the bolts off was easy, but i COULDN'T remove the throttlebody. After 1.5 hours of trying I just gave up, plus I had already lost feeling in my right hand/(it was swollen) and I tried to put everything back together. let me just say this: IT IS A BAD IDEA TO TRY ANYTHING IN THE COLD. the tube basically became more stiff, and while I was relatively unharmed during the removal process, I gained quite a significant amount of cuts and bruises trying to stretch the damn tube back on.


P2R install PART 2:
..so after a few hours idling on AZ and a medium Domino's pizza, I couldn't take it anymore, and drove the car down to one of my school's underground garages and proceeded to AGAIN.

Tools I used:
11mm socket - is used to loosen the clams on the Fujita CAI
12mm socket - is use on the bolts and nuts that you unscrew from the car
1/2 inch socket - is used for the nails provided with the P2R stuff (on the screw it says 8.8 so i am going to assume 1/2 inch = 8.8mm?)

I also brought along a regular mini 6" wrench and of a sharp blade for the stock spacer.

I also bought medicated bandaids (BELIEVE ME, as bearcat said, YOU WILL NEED IT...i pulled more skin from nail doing this install than I did with the CAI)

SOOO
1) Get all the plastic removed (large engine cover, and the battery cover)
2) top 2 nuts, bottom two bolts - as bearcat says, HOLD ONTO YOUR NUTS
3) I just pulled out the rubber tube and pulled it towards me, you will have sufficient space
4) (this time around, I was able to remove the block with out any trouble at all) pull out the block gently and set it on the wires
5) in order to remove the last two screws/bolts? as bearcat and Sandiegodrive mentioned, you need to put the bolts on. (NOTE, you can screw em back on any way just make sure you screw it on very very very tightly) - after, use the wrench and it after a few twists <towards you> you'll start to see the threads.

now this is the trick i used. For those who have the Fujita CAI, it is DEFINITELY a lot easier if you take off the bumper and just remove the CAI. if you don't have the space (like me) this is how i worked around it

- now put the washers onto the new, longer screws provided,
- then, attach the detached TB block onto the CAI and stick three screws (be careful of the bottom one furthest from you so that it doesn't fall into the engine, you will never find it) - 3 screw = 2 top, 1 bottom farthest from you
- now piece by piece, Thermoblock spacer, P2R spacer, Thermoblock spacer, you slip it on - a LOT of patience and stretching is required.

now, try to align them all together and start screwing the top far one - if you did everything correctly and it's aligned to the hole, there will appear to be very little you need to tighten back in.

now do the bottom one closest to you - then top one closest to you - and if you can reach it, the bottom one furthest from you.

- and there you have it - sounds simple but it is definitely not simple, alot of squeezing and laying half into the engine bay.

Review:
I drove down to the VERY bottom of my school underground lot, so basically no cars - my reaction? WHOA, the UR pulley + TB spacer is a must and SHOULD be done together. I think you would feel the difference of the pulley, but I think adding the TB spacer made it more noticeable - aka the power increase i felt is comparable to the feeling I felt after getting my CAI in.

When I just had the CAI, everything got louder, but as you're pulling up to 4k RPM it still feels slow, the real differences are when you're at WOT. with the P2R spacer and UR pulley, wow...I could feel the pull as right after I hit the gas

only down side? I got the really annoying whistling sound (actually it sounds more like a loud BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP...and at first i thought it was some sound the electronics were making, because my Check engine light was on) I popped the hood again, and if you put your ear towards the Spacer, you can tell that's the culprit. - gonna have to see if i can tighten it even more, or replace it with a metal one - then again i could be a vacuum leak, but i wouldn't know from what because all the tubing is exactly the way it should be.

oh yea the sensor up top? I cracked the housing a little because my wrench was a little bit too wide, but I removed the broken plastic and thee sensor still clips in and is in snug


Questions:

The stock spacer (which is basically a piece of cardboard, it wouldnt come off, i think it's probably from the fact that I've been driving heavy for 20k miles now, but i tried to stick a knife and scrape it off and it's not coming off. - is this okay? i basically just installed over it, there was no way it was coming off, i scraped to the point where my blade made marks on the TB metal itself

so if you read the way i did the install, i kind of cheated and slipped everything on. then tried to tighten the new bolts. Problem is the way i did it, I can't get the wrench or sockets into the bottom far one. three of them are REALLY tight, the bottom one is hand tighten, and I know it won't fall out, but it's not TIGHT TIGHT..is this a problem or am i safe?

how do i get rid of the check engine light? i know it's supposed to go away soon, but if it doesnt is there another way? or could there actually be a problem and i should have it looked at?


sorry for the bad spelling and extra keys, the bandaids around my fingers are getting in the way!

Bearcat94

Smart work around on the CAI.

The whistle has been reported, but I don't have it. I did tighten the Plastic Screw plug pretty tight. Some have installed a brass/metal plug.

Only a little bit of my original gaskets stuck. Got it off with a razor. A little water or Goo Gone might do the trick.

I'd tighten that last bolt. Not sure how to reach it with the Intake on. Maybe a "knuckle" and extension on the socket ratchet?

Check engine light WILL go out if everything is right (sensor, etc). If the CEL light goes out on it's own, the CEL Code/Message will stay in the system. You can clear it, but you have to go into the Diagnostic/Setup mode on the Navi.

If the light doesn't go out, you should try to reset it. I think you can disconnect the NEG battery cable for few minutes and it will reset (pretty sure on that, but not positive). If the code comes back, there may be a problem - like that broken sensor housing.


(thanks for the props. :tipshat: )

JCL622

haha thanks for the extra info -

man you weren't kidding about cuts and bruises on this one

- yea i had an extension on that last nut but i couldnt turn it because the base of the ratchet was too thick, i'll probably try to look for a thinner one.

i'm surprised you didn't get a whistling sound, cuz i had mine more than 4-7 threads deep and it's still a whistle.

unless..

our car doesnt make loud beeps for CEL Does it? LOL (i think it'd be awesome if it did) -

when i heard the whistling i went into the Diagnostic/Setup mode, and couldnt find anything, so i'm just gonna assume (crossfingers) that the check light will go out on it's own.

thanks for all that extra info on your thread btw

Ni$h21

tell me more about the pulley upgrade

JCL622

the UR pulley has about 3 main threads on the forums here Ni$h21,

but basically two types:
1) stock sized for those who plan on getting a supercharger or have a sound system that's 600W+
2) smaller one, you will need a new serpentine belt.

main difference between the two is like 1hp, and then about 1hp between A/T and M/T.

however the main purpose of the pulley is that it's A LOT lighter than the stock one. You will not know what i'm saying until you order the part....it is UNBELIEVABLE how much heavier the stock pulley is.

anyway, because the pulley is lighter, there is less power lost from turning the pulley and generally that gets translated to more power at the wheels from engine. (Engine horsepower and Wheel horsepower are different FYI - just in case you didn't know)

the feeling from the pulley, i got a better chance to test it today, yesterday was a very very rough and icey day, today the roads cleared up quite a bit for me to bite down a lil harder on the rubber

the initial feeling, is you can almost "feel" the power gain. okay there's no GOOD way to explain it, so i'll try my best:

imagine you feel the VTEC around ...3.6k-4k and that's when you generally get that "thrown into your seat" feeling. - and usually on a A/T that's like 1/2 way on the acccelerator.

now with the pulley, I FEEL the pressure pushing into my seat even from 0-40, i can literally feel the extra pressure...since it's still been like basically only a few hours since my install (a lil over 24 hours i guess) - one of the first things i noticed is that i barely realize that i've already hit 60 because usually for me to hit 60, i'll have to have it at 1/2 way and VTEC will kick in and i'll feel it all. But now? it's like, i feel the pressure at the beginning, and i'm jumping to 40mph-60mph and my foot is barely at 1/2 way on the accelerator.

the pros and cons that i've felt:
pros
1) your acceleration is definitely alot stronger
2) the weight loss from the pulley is definitely noticable and you definitely have more power to the wheels

cons:
i don't know if it's a combination of CAI, pulley, p2r TB spacer - but I tried a hard accel basically flooring it, and my car was spinning for grip in the beginning like 500ft, but I want to attribute that mostly to the roads still having some ice, and of course whatever snow is still stuck under my wheel well and underbody chassis - so this might not be a con yet -

and then another con that is also more or less a pro is that with CAI, p2r spacer and the pulley? i definitely feel it on the turns more, which means i'll be investing in a Progress Rear sway bar soon

hope the extra info helps Ni$h21! if there's anything else just PM us or reply on this thread, there are many others here who are probably even more knowledgeable than me

01tl4tl

All mounting bolts must be equal tightness- and at a specific torque
Aluminum is very easy to warp and air leaks will make noise.
All gasket material must be removed till its nothing but bare metal- or there will be an air leak.

You can clear the CEL by disconnecting the battery NEG or pulling fuse #8 on the passenger side footwell- marked Clock Backup Fuse
thats gen 2 but probably same fuse for gen3

JCL622

CEL cleared last night for me, only like 5-10 miles of driving and it went off.

mounting bolts for me were tightened and hand torqued to the point where it definitely wasn't going anywhere, except for the lowest one.

i know you want to try and get the stock gasket off, but there was no way it was coming off, and i know my whistling is from the plastic plug, popped the hood tightened the plug, and he whisting went away....for a little bit, it's back again, but i'm thinking I should probably get a metal plug.

JCL622

so i bought a new extension that would fit and lo and behold? i guess aluminum is funny because either the nail melted a bit or the blocks melted a bit and molded into the untightened bolt - it's not moving...at all.. i'll give it another go when i have a bit more time.

and for those who have had the whistling sound -
yes a 1/8" NPT plug DOES work, but i went to Home depot and they couldn't find such a plug.

Alternative solution has always been teflon or locktite. - i went ahead and just got both, teflon is good for so many reasons, reason # 1 is your mouse lol, anyway i got Locktite red and did like 3 loops of teflon - (well in actuality, the teflon stretches so by the time i was done, it had static clung to the entire plug. then i just added some locktite (red) and bam, the whistling is completely gone.

PowerRev

Hey, The reason your hearing a whistling noise is probably because of a vacuum leak. The plug thats included with the spacer is pipe thread, meaning, you should use teflon tape on the threads. This will make sure that there is no vacuum leak at the plug. Also make sure you tighten the plug as much as you possibly can, as the threads get fatter the deeper it goes in

P.S. If you ever suspect that you have a vacuum leak. You can spray any area that you suspect with brake cleaner, and if there is a leak, the idle on the car would change for the second that you sprayed the brake cleaner. That will be because the engine sucked in brake cleaner, and if it did, you obviously know there is a leak at that spot, becuase air should only enter the engine from the filter.

ib18c1

iTrader: (6)

nice review! i just got my stuff installed last night as well, and the wheel spinning from first gear is there just like u said! i am amazed!

JCL622

yeap you got it dead on - locktite(red) if you plan on never removing the plug and 3 layers of teflon is all it took

i am seriously enjoying the P2R spacer and the pulley, definitely mods i would suggest to do together -

for any new members, definitely get a CAI first, wait it out a few months and if you get the itch again (which you will just staying around on the AZ forums) get these two together,

JCL622

any whistles? or did you preemptively add the teflon?

ib18c1

iTrader: (6)

no whistle here, just the intake hiss which seems to have gotten a bit louder. I did not use teflon, just screwed the plug in until it stoped

JCL622

yeah the intake hiss for me has gotten louder as well, which i guess makes sense.

the only "downside" at this point is really that fourth bolt that i'm about to go try and retighten...

and the fact that my CAI isn't FLUSH against the metal insert. there's too much tubing but the clamps pretty much make sure that nothing is moving.


man you're lucky, i tightened that bolt almost 80% in and was still getting the whistling sound.

JCL622

okay! so few hours later, i went back to the school's underground garage and loosening the CAI i bought a thinner extension and got that sucker tightened!

so! Day 3 of P2R + 2 gaskets + UR Pulley

- had a bit of extra weight today, my GF (thank god she doesn't read the forums >_<) so anyway 105 lbs added to the car, but the reaction i think is perfect.

same garage, less snow, tires with relatively good grip.

whereas my tires used to screech, they just spin hardcore now, for grip, and a launch is pretty instant.

pretty sure my CAI is definitely noticeably louder,

quoting my gf "I've never felt this much pressure in your car, I grabbed the seats as if i was in a rollercoaster!! and i could feel the car pressing me into the seat" - also, apparently she was trying to "hit the brakes" with her feet, on the passenger side...LOL

Ni$h21

I'm definitely going for a pulley and intake it (most likely SRI due to so much rain in North FL)

JCL622

never really been down to florida but are you really driving through floods as high as 1/4 the height of your car? cuz in general you probably shouldn't be driving then.

eitherway i guess short ram is the way to go for you, but still...man that sounds wacky. I'm so glad i'm from NY

Ni$h21

i thought you couldn't run a CAI if there were a few puddles, not 1/4 high water....

JCL622

you can't run a CAI if water is gonna get into the engine. For that to happen, the water level would have to be up to your CAI, and even then, the real danger is if you try to turn on your engine and the water gets sucked it.

technically the only REAL danger is if the water level is so high that it can reach the engine...in which case you're in a REAL FLOOD and your car is gone anyway.

of course it's okay to be a bit more careful, but I'm pretty certain there are plenty of AZ TL owners from florida that run the Fujita, AEM CAI's and dont have a problem.

though it's up to you

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

The possibility of hydrolocking your engine is pretty slim. You would have to submerge the front bumper in water to submerge the filter in water. You will not ingest water through the filter driving in the rain or through puddles. You would have to drive through a mini lake or a flooded area of 2-3 ft of water to ingest water.

Ni$h21

did you notice a change in your mileage after the pulley and tb upgrade?

chris80i

So Question if you have a system should you not get the UR pulley? oem size one or it will be ok? I am thinking to install my JL system 500/1 + 300/4 + cap 1fd

JCL622

i actually did, but i dont think it's related.

JCL622

there are two sizes UR pulleys.

1 is undersized UR pulley = smaller lightweight crank pulley (for ppl with no s/c or 600+W systems)

2nd one is stock sized UR pulley = lightweight crank pulley that is the same size so it the pulley is drawing the same amount of current - thus enabling the s/c to draw it's full benefit, and your 600+W system to not drain the car.

excelerate carries them all. also make sure you guys get in on CAI+TB spacer sale.

Soseductivesf

Someone told me If I get the light weight pulley, it will unbalance my engine unless it has some balancer.. Is this true? I have an 08 TL-s and I already ordered the pulley from Josh...