How to replace the blinking SECURITY Light?
How to replace the blinking SECURITY Light?
Im thinking of replacing the blinking red security light (on the drivers door next to the pop up lock) with a blue LED.
Anyone ever done this or know how to get to that light?
Anyone ever done this or know how to get to that light?
Originally Posted by xtin
Im thinking of replacing the blinking red security light (on the drivers door next to the pop up lock) with a blue LED.
Anyone ever done this or know how to get to that light?
Anyone ever done this or know how to get to that light?
Steve
Originally Posted by streese
If you pop the door panel off, you can get to the light area. You can carefully pop the LED out and replace it.
Steve
Steve
Originally Posted by xtin
I figured I would have to pop off the door panel. It is a 1 led?
Steve
I did this on my Passat , I haven't looked close at the light on the TL yet but with the Passat the light and little collar around it popped right out and you just soldered in the LED .. it had some sort of resistor on the + side of it so it had to be wired right.
It basically lit up bright enough to see on the roof of my garage through the sun roof .. only problem was kids think its kool when they see it at night and were over looking at it .. fortunatly no damage .... they didn't seem attracted to the stock red one.
It basically lit up bright enough to see on the roof of my garage through the sun roof .. only problem was kids think its kool when they see it at night and were over looking at it .. fortunatly no damage .... they didn't seem attracted to the stock red one.
Originally Posted by xtin
Im thinking of replacing the blinking red security light (on the drivers door next to the pop up lock) with a blue LED.
Anyone ever done this or know how to get to that light?
Anyone ever done this or know how to get to that light?
It is only 1 LED but it is soldered on a very small printed circuit board inside a plastic module. The printed circuit board can be removed from the holder if you proceed with caution. You will need a 5mm LED, a small soldering iron and resin core solder.
It is quite easy to remove but you need to remove the door trim to get to it.
The door trim is secured by 4 screws ( 2 under the cover of the inside door handle, 1 on the outer edge, just below the catch, has a rubber stopper and the other one is under the armrest) and there is also 7 clips.
Once you remove the the screws (All 4) using a plastic trim pad remover or putty knife covered with tape, insert it at the bottom of the door between the trim and metal and pull back (the clips are located as such, 2 on the front side, 3 on the bottom and 2 in the back). Move the trim tool to each location were you wil feel resistance as you pull back the handle of the tool towards you. Be Careful, remove the panel with as little bending as possible to avoid creases or breaking it.
Once all the clips are free, start at the rear of the door and pull the trim panel upward to clear the lock knob.
Do not pull the door panel up too far or you will damage the inner handle cable.
While holding the door panel away from the door, you will need to disconnect the inner handle cable at the handle (be careful not to loose the little steel clip) then remove the driving position memory switch connector, power door lock switch connector, power window switch connectors (2 of them) then the harness connector for the trim pannel to the door, door courtysy light by turning it counterclockwise 1/4 turn.
You will then be able to remove the plastic holder with the LED by simply pinching it from under with your fingers and pushing it up.
Looking at the connector from the terminals side with the locking retainer facing up, the left terminal (1) is ground and the right one(2) is positive according to the manual.
On a LED, you will have to ask that they provide you the terminal designation. Some of the manufacturer will have the shortest lead as Cathode (Ground or Negative) and the other lead is positive. see the following link ;
http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/ledleft.htm
With LED you need to respect the polarity and there is only one way to wire it to work.
I did mine within the first few days of taking delivery of my car (April 18, 2005) and it took me about 40 minutes overall from start to finish.
There is no need to change the resitor is you use a any common 5mm Blue Led.
Best regards
frenchnew
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Originally Posted by frenchnew
It is only 1 LED but it is soldered on a very small printed circuit board inside a plastic module. The printed circuit board can be removed from the holder if you proceed with caution. You will need a 5mm LED, a small soldering iron and resin core solder.
It is quite easy to remove but you need to remove the door trim to get to it.
The door trim is secured by 4 screws ( 2 under the cover of the inside door handle, 1 on the outer edge, just below the catch, has a rubber stopper and the other one is under the armrest) and there is also 7 clips.
Once you remove the the screws (All 4) using a plastic trim pad remover or putty knife covered with tape, insert it at the bottom of the door between the trim and metal and pull back (the clips are located as such, 2 on the front side, 3 on the bottom and 2 in the back). Move the trim tool to each location were you wil feel resistance as you pull back the handle of the tool towards you. Be Careful, remove the panel with as little bending as possible to avoid creases or breaking it.
Once all the clips are free, start at the rear of the door and pull the trim panel upward to clear the lock knob.
Do not pull the door panel up too far or you will damage the inner handle cable.
While holding the door panel away from the door, you will need to disconnect the inner handle cable at the handle (be careful not to loose the little steel clip) then remove the driving position memory switch connector, power door lock switch connector, power window switch connectors (2 of them) then the harness connector for the trim pannel to the door, door courtysy light by turning it counterclockwise 1/4 turn.
You will then be able to remove the plastic holder with the LED by simply pinching it from under with your fingers and pushing it up.
Looking at the connector from the terminals side with the locking retainer facing up, the left terminal (1) is ground and the right one(2) is positive according to the manual.
On a LED, you will have to ask that they provide you the terminal designation. Some of the manufacturer will have the shortest lead as Cathode (Ground or Negative) and the other lead is positive. see the following link ;
http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/ledleft.htm
With LED you need to respect the polarity and there is only one way to wire it to work.
I did mine within the first few days of taking delivery of my car (April 18, 2005) and it took me about 40 minutes overall from start to finish.
There is no need to change the resitor is you use a any common 5mm Blue Led.
Best regards
frenchnew
It is quite easy to remove but you need to remove the door trim to get to it.
The door trim is secured by 4 screws ( 2 under the cover of the inside door handle, 1 on the outer edge, just below the catch, has a rubber stopper and the other one is under the armrest) and there is also 7 clips.
Once you remove the the screws (All 4) using a plastic trim pad remover or putty knife covered with tape, insert it at the bottom of the door between the trim and metal and pull back (the clips are located as such, 2 on the front side, 3 on the bottom and 2 in the back). Move the trim tool to each location were you wil feel resistance as you pull back the handle of the tool towards you. Be Careful, remove the panel with as little bending as possible to avoid creases or breaking it.
Once all the clips are free, start at the rear of the door and pull the trim panel upward to clear the lock knob.
Do not pull the door panel up too far or you will damage the inner handle cable.
While holding the door panel away from the door, you will need to disconnect the inner handle cable at the handle (be careful not to loose the little steel clip) then remove the driving position memory switch connector, power door lock switch connector, power window switch connectors (2 of them) then the harness connector for the trim pannel to the door, door courtysy light by turning it counterclockwise 1/4 turn.
You will then be able to remove the plastic holder with the LED by simply pinching it from under with your fingers and pushing it up.
Looking at the connector from the terminals side with the locking retainer facing up, the left terminal (1) is ground and the right one(2) is positive according to the manual.
On a LED, you will have to ask that they provide you the terminal designation. Some of the manufacturer will have the shortest lead as Cathode (Ground or Negative) and the other lead is positive. see the following link ;
http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/ledleft.htm
With LED you need to respect the polarity and there is only one way to wire it to work.
I did mine within the first few days of taking delivery of my car (April 18, 2005) and it took me about 40 minutes overall from start to finish.
There is no need to change the resitor is you use a any common 5mm Blue Led.
Best regards
frenchnew
Thanks for that awesome step by step though. If I decide to do this, I have a good walkthrough bookmarked
The easiest and neatest way is with this = http://www.coldheat.com/products.cfm?section=pro
It really works well! And its cordless!!\
I have recomeded this to several of my friends. All (that bought it) liked it!!
Makes soldering a Breeze......
It really works well! And its cordless!!\
I have recomeded this to several of my friends. All (that bought it) liked it!!
Makes soldering a Breeze......
Originally Posted by Spiritman
The easiest and neatest way is with this = http://www.coldheat.com/products.cfm?section=pro
It really works well! And its cordless!!\
I have recomeded this to several of my friends. All (that bought it) liked it!!
Makes soldering a Breeze......
It really works well! And its cordless!!\
I have recomeded this to several of my friends. All (that bought it) liked it!!
Makes soldering a Breeze......
ANYWAYS, I am better with a scalpel than a soldering tool
Originally Posted by xtin
Awesome write up. Im not sure Im reading to wield a soldering iron
Thanks for that awesome step by step though. If I decide to do this, I have a good walkthrough bookmarked
Thanks for that awesome step by step though. If I decide to do this, I have a good walkthrough bookmarked
Anyone willing to take off the door panel can handle a soldering iron. That's the easy part.
gurney (Your Biggest Fan)
P.S. - Beat up any Service Managers lately?
Originally Posted by gurneyeagle
xtin - you disappoint me Jedi!
Anyone willing to take off the door panel can handle a soldering iron. That's the easy part.
gurney (Your Biggest Fan)
P.S. - Beat up any Service Managers lately?
Anyone willing to take off the door panel can handle a soldering iron. That's the easy part.
gurney (Your Biggest Fan)
P.S. - Beat up any Service Managers lately?
I made sure to drop in to give my fave service advisor a nice big cheesy smile
Boy, you have the mod-bug big-time! Dibs on a ride with the coilovers. I'll help you setup the car if you want. Are they adjustable for compression and rebound damping as well as ride hieght and spring preload?
I wouldnt have chosen this car if I didnt want to mod it =)
I know they are 16way adjustable for height/ride comfort
Sure, I'll take you for a spin. Are you good at installing suspension?
I know they are 16way adjustable for height/ride comfort
Sure, I'll take you for a spin. Are you good at installing suspension?
Originally Posted by subinf
Are you going to do this or your lambo doors first? 

What do you think?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/20-IN...spagenameZWDVW
(ironically, they DO fit the lug pattern)
Originally Posted by xtin
Waiting for my Rick James spinners was taking too long so I got these instead.
What do you think?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/20-IN...spagenameZWDVW
(ironically, they DO fit the lug pattern)
What do you think?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/20-IN...spagenameZWDVW
(ironically, they DO fit the lug pattern)
http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/gadgets/p...ims-162990.php
As far as soldering, an electronic technician could do this for a few dollars (It's less then 5 minutes to remove the board, un solder the RED Led and solder in the new Blue Led and put back the board in the plastic holder.
Best regards
frenchnew
Originally Posted by frenchnew
Why go half a**ed with regular spinners, you need ...
http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/gadgets/p...ims-162990.php
As far as soldering, an electronic technician could do this for a few dollars (It's less then 5 minutes to remove the board, un solder the RED Led and solder in the new Blue Led and put back the board in the plastic holder.
Best regards
frenchnew
http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/gadgets/p...ims-162990.php
As far as soldering, an electronic technician could do this for a few dollars (It's less then 5 minutes to remove the board, un solder the RED Led and solder in the new Blue Led and put back the board in the plastic holder.
Best regards
frenchnew
I dont know any electronic technicians. Damnitt
Originally Posted by KilroyR1
Yes I am
; but, it's too much effort until I finish my MBA class.
; but, it's too much effort until I finish my MBA class.Thread
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