I'll admit it. I have never changed my own oil before and I know being 17 is probably not an excuse. But can the veterans here guide me on how to change the oil as to the tools, materials, and steps to change oil. I have Mobil 1 sitting in my garage and its waiting to be used. Thanks a lot.

 

Go to the dealer and have them do it .

 

R U for real? A Google Search would yield thousands of DIY instructions, but I feel charitable.

The engine should be at operating temperature, then shut off.

1) Obtain a drain pan capable of holding at least 6 quarts of oil
2) Obtain a 17mm box end wrench (I am pretty sure that is the size, but you can measure the drain plug yourself).
3) Raise the front of the car and lower on jack stands
4) Remove the oil fill cap on top of the engine and put somewhere safe
5) With the wrench, loosen the drain plug (lefty loosey). When it is easily turned with your fingers, quickly remove it and stay out of the oil stream. The drain plus is rearward of the oil pan, which is aluminum - it is gold dichromate color (brassy). Discard the old washer unless you have not obtained a new one. Let the oil drain until drops come out, not a steady stream. Use a new crush washer from Honda - tighten to spec or by feel. Move the oil pan under the oil filter.
6) Locate the oil filter - it is blue. Use an oil filter removal "cap", a band-type remover from Sears, or a channel lock to remove the filter. I use the Facom which is the ultimate, available from Griot's Garage. Loosen the oil filter - watch where the oil is going and move the pan to ensure you catch it.
7) Clean the oil filter mating surface with a paper towel. Apply some silicone grease or oil to the o-ring on the filter. Tighten it clockwise until it just touches the filter mounting flange, make note of the relative position, and tighten 7/8's of a revolution. Do not over-tighten or you may damage the oring.
8) Add the spec amount of oil.
9) Re-apply the oil fill cap.
10) Start the engine, and ensure the oil pressure light goes out.
11) Let it run until the fan cycles once.
12) Check for leaks.

 

I saw recommendations for Mobil 1 so I bought that. My dealership gave me only ONE free oil change and they also used Mobil 1. They said that more would cost me. I forgot the exact price, but sounded too expensive. Anyways, even if i never change my own oil...its nice to know.

Thanks Road Rage

 

A visit to rets' excellent sticky, the 3G garage, would have revealed this thread http://www.acura-tl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80273

 

Just to add to this - after removing from jacks or ramps and engine has run - recheck level as the oil filter etc have now taken some of the oil in - may need to top off.

 

I always like to fill the oil filter with oil before putting it on, although this is not necessary.

 

Works only on cars whose filter is vertical I guess tho.

 

Not necessarily. I used to change the oil in my Talon and the filter was horizontal. You have to be quick, but it was never a problem.

 

why do you do it - prevent any lack of oil on startup?

 

I do that also. Primes the filter so it doesn't have to wait to fill up before it sends the oil upstairs where it is needed.

 

I'll give it a shot - never did that before - good idea tho.

cool. Learn somethin' new every day.

 

Exactly. The majority of the wear & tear on your engine is at startup.

 

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True, but generally not from a lack of oil. There are residual anti-wear compounds that remain for quite a while on the high stress areas like the cam lobes - these are sacrificial colloids. In ester-based oils, the ester actual has a polar affinity for the charged metal, and will stay on forever. That is why a can of red Line is a good idea for cars laid up over the winter.

Much of the wear at startup is actually from two other events, one chemical and one mechanical:

1) Chemical: The combustion produces water, especially high when it condenses against the cold steel of an engine. The high sulfurs in fuel form weak sulfuric acids, which over time can cause chemical erosion and/or pitting of the cylinder walls and ring lands

2) Mechanical. Remember your engineering homeostasis? An engine is designed to have its lowest drag and wear at standard operating temperatures. The different metals and even alloys of the same metals (aluminum, chromium, copper, etc) expand at different rates, and it takes a while for them to get all chummy and cozy.

I once read that starting your car, backing it up 10 feet, washing it, and then putting it back where it was is the equivalent of 500 miles wear at operating temp on the highway. Might be true, although my guess is that number has been reduced by modern machining and alloy quality control.

 

wow road rage...you went pretty far back to revive my thread haha

but its alwyas nice to hear your insights