Hit curb @ 25MPH! Car undrivable. What could be damaged?
#1
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Hit curb @ 25MPH! Car undrivable. What could be damaged?
So last night I was coming near an 90 degree turn and slowed down but obviosuly not enough because road was full of ICE.
In that split second I thought about it and instead of going over the curb and risking front bumper and airbag deployment, I manged to take hit on front right wheel at an near zeero AOA(angle of attack) to curb.
Car got undrivable as it started making metalic scraping noise and now I'm waiting for dealer to open on Tuesday.
What could be damaged and what should I expect? Is it going to be bent wheel, new tire, drive shaft or suspension? could roter be bent?
In that split second I thought about it and instead of going over the curb and risking front bumper and airbag deployment, I manged to take hit on front right wheel at an near zeero AOA(angle of attack) to curb.
Car got undrivable as it started making metalic scraping noise and now I'm waiting for dealer to open on Tuesday.
What could be damaged and what should I expect? Is it going to be bent wheel, new tire, drive shaft or suspension? could roter be bent?
#2
Have a feeling that if you hit the curb when your tire was parallel with it, there is something wrong with the axle or something. Give us an update whenever you find out what it is, because I am curious
#3
One on the right for me
Some guy in car talk hit a curb in his TSX and messed up a bunch of suspension stuff. His entire wheel moved back a few inches. Post some pics if you have the chance.
#4
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But luckily, he didn't have any frame damage. Post pics and we can help u out more.
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25mph is pretty fast and can cause alot of damage.
Bent wheel
bent upper/ lower control arms.
injured wheel bearing( This one will probably show up a few months after the initial repair, it will sound alot like an airplane propellor)
bent axle.
bent inner tie rod.
damaged outer tie rod.
and worst case would be a bent engine cradle.
I hope for your sake you were not going that fast and didn't hit the curb square on.
Bent wheel
bent upper/ lower control arms.
injured wheel bearing( This one will probably show up a few months after the initial repair, it will sound alot like an airplane propellor)
bent axle.
bent inner tie rod.
damaged outer tie rod.
and worst case would be a bent engine cradle.
I hope for your sake you were not going that fast and didn't hit the curb square on.
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#8
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Add to the list;
Damage CV joint.
Wheel bearings.
Possible transaxle damage.
This is one of the primary negatives with FWD cars. The amount of potential damage to expensive components with a FWD car is quite a bit more than that of a RWD car in a situation such as yours.
Hopefully, your damage will turn out to be less.
Damage CV joint.
Wheel bearings.
Possible transaxle damage.
This is one of the primary negatives with FWD cars. The amount of potential damage to expensive components with a FWD car is quite a bit more than that of a RWD car in a situation such as yours.
Hopefully, your damage will turn out to be less.
#10
WDP Director of R & D
Originally Posted by TheAcAvenger
that metallic scraping noise is a cracked strut
Actually,,, that noise could be a number of things. Given the hit and proximity of brake components etc., my immediate guess would be a definite bent rim hitting the caliper....
Any oil leaks associated with the right side hit?? Hopefully it didn't bend the lower control arm enough to interfere with the oil filter/adapter plate..
Bottom line, with an inevitable hit with a curb like you described you should have attempted to turn to the right to hit with the wheel perpendicular to the curb. IE - an attempt to drive over it. I would much rather have body/bumper etc. damage vs frame, suspension, and trans axle+..... A wheel hit usually wouldn't deploy the airbag unless it significantly decreased the forward momentum of the car, IE "high onset" of G-forces. I've had winter driving moments of the same nature. Best to release the brakes and drive over vs continuing to attempt the stop prior. You could definitely be looking at some significant damage.
Keep us posted
Good luck
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I actually had something similar happen to me. Instead of ice, i was trying to turn away from a pot hole while driving off of a highway ramp. While turning away from the pot hole, i ended up hittin the curve with the front right tire. The tire was blown and there was damage to the rim. I put on the spare and i noticed the alignment was totally off. Luckily, I didn't hear anything out of the ordinary with the spare on.
Because it was a Sunday, the dearship was closed. I ended up driving to about 4 tire places (Sam's, Pepboys, and some local places...), but none of them carried the Michelins that I had (I forgot exactly what the model is, but it's the stock tire for a 06 with nav.). I went to the dealership the following Monday. They gave me a new tire, balance, and alignment. Luckily, that was all that was needed. The damage to the rim was minimal. You can see a small mark if you're looking for it. The service guy was telling me that the most common problems that arise from these incidents was a broken tie rod or a broken control arm.
With the new tire, balance, and alignment...the total came to about $420.00.
Because it was a Sunday, the dearship was closed. I ended up driving to about 4 tire places (Sam's, Pepboys, and some local places...), but none of them carried the Michelins that I had (I forgot exactly what the model is, but it's the stock tire for a 06 with nav.). I went to the dealership the following Monday. They gave me a new tire, balance, and alignment. Luckily, that was all that was needed. The damage to the rim was minimal. You can see a small mark if you're looking for it. The service guy was telling me that the most common problems that arise from these incidents was a broken tie rod or a broken control arm.
With the new tire, balance, and alignment...the total came to about $420.00.
#13
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Note: Steering is slightly turned to left so that's not the real issue
Taken with camera phone. Tell me your opniions. Also should I get this done at Acura or say some other place? How about tire? I'd love to able to save it somehow
Taken with camera phone. Tell me your opniions. Also should I get this done at Acura or say some other place? How about tire? I'd love to able to save it somehow
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Here are more information
1. metalic scrape occurs in a pattern (almost sound like once per revolution of wheel)
2. I checked steering and both tires steer fine.
3. I checked doors and hood for any gap changes. Only thing I noticed is bumper on right side has bigger gap. Other panels are fine
4. No oil leakage of any kind
5. No VSA or ABS check light on
Should I get this done at Acura or save some money by going to other shop?
1. metalic scrape occurs in a pattern (almost sound like once per revolution of wheel)
2. I checked steering and both tires steer fine.
3. I checked doors and hood for any gap changes. Only thing I noticed is bumper on right side has bigger gap. Other panels are fine
4. No oil leakage of any kind
5. No VSA or ABS check light on
Should I get this done at Acura or save some money by going to other shop?
#17
just curious but would your insurance cover that. I had the same thing happen to my tsx, I was making a right turn going way to fast, and before i knew it i had hit the front left hand tire. I was so pissed i got out of the car and my damamage to my rim was just like yours, and as when i got back to the car to drive it my alainment was all screwed. I took it to one of this places over here in Chula Vista and they said that they couldn't fix, but they recomended me go through the insurance company. I just got back from Belize so the week I'm going to see if my insurance will cover it, if not this will have to wait another month before i can get it fixed
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There was another thread here a while back from a similar deal that had a cracked wheel. I can't see that in your photos...but I would sure take a good close look before I drove it again.
If you're mechanically inclined and have a good understanding of the suspension in this car, you can take the wheel off and start inspecting things. But you are dealing with some very important safety features here...so if you're not, I would take it to the Acura dealer...or a shop that is familiar with these cars...and have it professionally diagnosed.
If you're mechanically inclined and have a good understanding of the suspension in this car, you can take the wheel off and start inspecting things. But you are dealing with some very important safety features here...so if you're not, I would take it to the Acura dealer...or a shop that is familiar with these cars...and have it professionally diagnosed.
#19
Racer
Do you have a way to lift the car?
If so, lift the front tire you hit off the ground and tell us if you can bump it front to back (does it move) and top to bottom.
If so, lift the front tire you hit off the ground and tell us if you can bump it front to back (does it move) and top to bottom.
#20
i had a buddy of mine make a turn.. it was too icy, the car sled sideways... and his passenger side hit the curb. like he basically was sliding sideways, and he hit the curb. that scrued up his suspension, drivetrain (cause it was an A4).
but if its icy for u... and it looks liek u just got some more snow n slush.... y dont u ahve snows?
but if its icy for u... and it looks liek u just got some more snow n slush.... y dont u ahve snows?
#21
Racer
Originally Posted by jdb8805
Do you have a way to lift the car?
If so, lift the front tire you hit off the ground and tell us if you can bump it front to back (does it move) and top to bottom.
If so, lift the front tire you hit off the ground and tell us if you can bump it front to back (does it move) and top to bottom.
My guess is it will move top to bottom and that plus the scraping sound would lead me to busted wheel bearing.
#22
Racer
A buddy of mine did that with his Legacy GT...
It broke the rim in half and the wheel came off the car. But by the wheel breaking and coming off it saved some suspension damage. The rear tire didn't break and bent the cross-member.
It broke the rim in half and the wheel came off the car. But by the wheel breaking and coming off it saved some suspension damage. The rear tire didn't break and bent the cross-member.
#23
Drifting
sounds like a broken shaft or rod to me. similar thing happened to a friend's civic before. it pushed the whole left-side shaft inside towards the engine and broke a lot of expensive things.
#24
Originally Posted by speedytsx
just curious but would your insurance cover that. I had the same thing happen to my tsx, I was making a right turn going way to fast, and before i knew it i had hit the front left hand tire. I was so pissed i got out of the car and my damamage to my rim was just like yours, and as when i got back to the car to drive it my alainment was all screwed. I took it to one of this places over here in Chula Vista and they said that they couldn't fix, but they recomended me go through the insurance company. I just got back from Belize so the week I'm going to see if my insurance will cover it, if not this will have to wait another month before i can get it fixed
#25
WDP Director of R & D
Originally Posted by jdb8805
Do you have a way to lift the car?
If so, lift the front tire you hit off the ground and tell us if you can bump it front to back (does it move) and top to bottom.
If so, lift the front tire you hit off the ground and tell us if you can bump it front to back (does it move) and top to bottom.
Lift the entire front so both wheels are off the ground rotate tires and look for noticeable wobble etc.. I would do the same with right wheel off and on. The rim is most likely bent, the axle and hub assemble could have been compromised as well..
I would definitely have "a" shop look it over. Doesn't necessarily have to be Acura but a dependable and reliable one.
I wouldn't drive it much, never know what could be tearing itself up over an out of round/true item etc..
Good luck
-Nice camera phone
#27
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front tires are at 4/32" but I'd like to get this winter out of them. I signed in at the acura this morning. The car has been sitting there for few days but I had to wait until they are open. I told them to please look at it today so they can order parts in and get it fixed sooner. The sooner they look at it, the sooner parts will be here.
Upon close look at this morning, I noticed bottom of wheel is definintely pushed inward. I suspect lower control arm damage for sure. I hope nothing much. There is zero body damage which is good. Labor rate is outragious though, they said $105 an hour. That's like 85-90 bucks US still.
Upon close look at this morning, I noticed bottom of wheel is definintely pushed inward. I suspect lower control arm damage for sure. I hope nothing much. There is zero body damage which is good. Labor rate is outragious though, they said $105 an hour. That's like 85-90 bucks US still.
#28
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Estimate came in.
1. Wheel disk (rotor?)
2. low arm control (I knew)
3. hub assmebly (can't they replace parts individually?)
4. wheel bearing
5. drive shaft (F*ck)
6. Disc
4 hours of labor
= $2073 + tire and rim = $2800 bucks
sh1t, f*ck crap all I can say.
Considering insurance premium increase for next 5 years, 46 dollars a month. Service advisor told me to go with cash. I need to go look for a student loan at bank now.
1. Wheel disk (rotor?)
2. low arm control (I knew)
3. hub assmebly (can't they replace parts individually?)
4. wheel bearing
5. drive shaft (F*ck)
6. Disc
4 hours of labor
= $2073 + tire and rim = $2800 bucks
sh1t, f*ck crap all I can say.
Considering insurance premium increase for next 5 years, 46 dollars a month. Service advisor told me to go with cash. I need to go look for a student loan at bank now.
#30
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i think if you source out the parts on your own you will be able to bring that price down substantially, from delray acura i managed to find your parts list
1. 42700-SEP-A11 DISK, ALUMINUM WHEEL (17X8JJ) (ENKEI) 2005 TL $221.94
2. 51350-SEP-A00 ARM, R. FR. (LOWER) 2005 TL $113.40
3. 44600-SEP-A01 HUB ASSY., FR. 2005 TL $41.74
4. 44300-SDA-A52 BEARING ASSY., FR. HUB (NSK) 2005 TL $54.20
5. 44305-SEP-A01 DRIVESHAFT ASSY., R. 2005 TL $154.62
6. Disk is a little vague so im assuming the brake disk the price is for 2 45251-SEP-A51 DISK, FR. BRAKE (17") 2 2005 TL $124.48
Grand total: 710.72 USD +shipping approximately 80bucks call it an even 800+ exchange rate @1.12=896 plus labour 4 hours @ 105CAD= 420+896=1316 A DAMN LOT OF SAVINGS!!! I would go this route if i were in your situation, the only downside is it will take a few days longer to get all your parts. Goodluck!
1. 42700-SEP-A11 DISK, ALUMINUM WHEEL (17X8JJ) (ENKEI) 2005 TL $221.94
2. 51350-SEP-A00 ARM, R. FR. (LOWER) 2005 TL $113.40
3. 44600-SEP-A01 HUB ASSY., FR. 2005 TL $41.74
4. 44300-SDA-A52 BEARING ASSY., FR. HUB (NSK) 2005 TL $54.20
5. 44305-SEP-A01 DRIVESHAFT ASSY., R. 2005 TL $154.62
6. Disk is a little vague so im assuming the brake disk the price is for 2 45251-SEP-A51 DISK, FR. BRAKE (17") 2 2005 TL $124.48
Grand total: 710.72 USD +shipping approximately 80bucks call it an even 800+ exchange rate @1.12=896 plus labour 4 hours @ 105CAD= 420+896=1316 A DAMN LOT OF SAVINGS!!! I would go this route if i were in your situation, the only downside is it will take a few days longer to get all your parts. Goodluck!
#31
Senior Moderator
Dang, my worst fear in winter driving is exactly this situation. With aluminum control arms, this sort of damage is inevitable in a curb accident.
Good luck to you, Actuary!
Good luck to you, Actuary!
#32
One on the right for me
Originally Posted by The Dougler
i think if you source out the parts on your own you will be able to bring that price down substantially, from delray acura i managed to find your parts list
1. 42700-SEP-A11 DISK, ALUMINUM WHEEL (17X8JJ) (ENKEI) 2005 TL $221.94
2. 51350-SEP-A00 ARM, R. FR. (LOWER) 2005 TL $113.40
3. 44600-SEP-A01 HUB ASSY., FR. 2005 TL $41.74
4. 44300-SDA-A52 BEARING ASSY., FR. HUB (NSK) 2005 TL $54.20
5. 44305-SEP-A01 DRIVESHAFT ASSY., R. 2005 TL $154.62
6. Disk is a little vague so im assuming the brake disk the price is for 2 45251-SEP-A51 DISK, FR. BRAKE (17") 2 2005 TL $124.48
Grand total: 710.72 USD +shipping approximately 80bucks call it an even 800+ exchange rate @1.12=896 plus labour 4 hours @ 105CAD= 420+896=1316 A DAMN LOT OF SAVINGS!!! I would go this route if i were in your situation, the only downside is it will take a few days longer to get all your parts. Goodluck!
1. 42700-SEP-A11 DISK, ALUMINUM WHEEL (17X8JJ) (ENKEI) 2005 TL $221.94
2. 51350-SEP-A00 ARM, R. FR. (LOWER) 2005 TL $113.40
3. 44600-SEP-A01 HUB ASSY., FR. 2005 TL $41.74
4. 44300-SDA-A52 BEARING ASSY., FR. HUB (NSK) 2005 TL $54.20
5. 44305-SEP-A01 DRIVESHAFT ASSY., R. 2005 TL $154.62
6. Disk is a little vague so im assuming the brake disk the price is for 2 45251-SEP-A51 DISK, FR. BRAKE (17") 2 2005 TL $124.48
Grand total: 710.72 USD +shipping approximately 80bucks call it an even 800+ exchange rate @1.12=896 plus labour 4 hours @ 105CAD= 420+896=1316 A DAMN LOT OF SAVINGS!!! I would go this route if i were in your situation, the only downside is it will take a few days longer to get all your parts. Goodluck!
x2.
If you don't mind the wait, get your own parts. Also call around to see if there are any independent shops that have a lower labor rate. I'm guessing you had the dealer quote you the labor? They are usually the most expensive because they think they are all high and mighty and are second to none, which is pretty much bull shit. Find a shop, bring your parts, fix car for a lot less.
#33
Any local body shop should be able to do this repair..something like this is a piece of cake for them considering how mangled many of the cars they work on come in!! You might even get a better repair job to be honest...body shops are the BEST at doing alignments...
#34
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Are you kidding? All 4 of my wheels look like this if not worse and I have NO problems. I hit curbs I would say at LEAST 3 times a week going between 30-50 mph in the city. What the hell - I have yet to have any problems other than some now ugly rims.
P.S. I'm totally aware I can not drive For whatever reason I don't watch the road let alone the damn curb.
P.S. I'm totally aware I can not drive For whatever reason I don't watch the road let alone the damn curb.
#35
One on the right for me
Originally Posted by KatyTL
Are you kidding? All 4 of my wheels look like this if not worse and I have NO problems. I hit curbs I would say at LEAST 3 times a week going between 30-50 mph in the city. What the hell - I have yet to have any problems other than some now ugly rims.
P.S. I'm totally aware I can not drive For whatever reason I don't watch the road let alone the damn curb.
P.S. I'm totally aware I can not drive For whatever reason I don't watch the road let alone the damn curb.
holy crap
#37
Originally Posted by KatyTL
Are you kidding? All 4 of my wheels look like this if not worse and I have NO problems. I hit curbs I would say at LEAST 3 times a week going between 30-50 mph in the city. What the hell - I have yet to have any problems other than some now ugly rims.
P.S. I'm totally aware I can not drive For whatever reason I don't watch the road let alone the damn curb.
P.S. I'm totally aware I can not drive For whatever reason I don't watch the road let alone the damn curb.
#38
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Originally Posted by KatyTL
I hit curbs I would say at LEAST 3 times a week going between 30-50 mph in the city.
#39
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I have update on quote.
So I went to Acura and negotiated.
CDN$1294.61 = ($1050 US)
I will have to pay for "express" delivery which Acura promised to have parts in by tomorrow so I can get the car back before the weekend and my parents find out about it. Labor is still at 4 hours @ 105 which means grand total will be $1817 tax incl, + 4 set of tires (1000 bucks).
42700-SEP-A11 DISK, ALUMINUM WHEEL (17X8JJ) (ENKEI)
51210-SEP-A11 Knuckle, R. FR.
51350-SEP-A00 ARM, R. FR. (LOWER)
44600-SEP-A01 HUB ASSY., FR.
44300-SDA-A52 BEARING ASSY., FR. HUB (NSK)
44305-SDB-A00 DRIVESHAFT ASSY., R.
45251-SEP-A11 DISK, FR. BRAKE (17")
So I went to Acura and negotiated.
CDN$1294.61 = ($1050 US)
I will have to pay for "express" delivery which Acura promised to have parts in by tomorrow so I can get the car back before the weekend and my parents find out about it. Labor is still at 4 hours @ 105 which means grand total will be $1817 tax incl, + 4 set of tires (1000 bucks).
42700-SEP-A11 DISK, ALUMINUM WHEEL (17X8JJ) (ENKEI)
51210-SEP-A11 Knuckle, R. FR.
51350-SEP-A00 ARM, R. FR. (LOWER)
44600-SEP-A01 HUB ASSY., FR.
44300-SDA-A52 BEARING ASSY., FR. HUB (NSK)
44305-SDB-A00 DRIVESHAFT ASSY., R.
45251-SEP-A11 DISK, FR. BRAKE (17")
#40
Why 4 SETS of tires? I assume you mean a set of 4 tires.
Why do you need 4 tires? Did they ALL get damaged, or just the right front?
What does you parents have to do with it? Dont tell me your Mommy bought the TL for you.
Just kidding, I wish I had someone that bought me a TL.
Why do you need 4 tires? Did they ALL get damaged, or just the right front?
What does you parents have to do with it? Dont tell me your Mommy bought the TL for you.
Just kidding, I wish I had someone that bought me a TL.