So i ignored a small issue where my airbag light would flicker and my headlights and radio would cut out for a second. it then became like 5seconds. Finally, it just stayed that way permanently and had some battery issues. it was from my alternator voltage reg failing. I replaced it but still have issues.

-My temp gauge goes up right away (but obvs engine is ice cold).
-My fans blow as soon as they get power and always stay on.
-My engine struggling to start and idle properly. Never had an engine issue before, always runs smooth.
-After like 2mins of driving, my D light blinks. before this time, it shifts as normal. After it sort of becomes limp.

Battery voltage reading 11.8v at rest, and 13.5v running. have a new battery just in case, but dont think its battery related now.

Any general idea of how to diagnose too high voltage?

Engine codes are
p0118 (engine coolant temp has high input) i removed this guy and its in clean condition, and pwoer cable reads about 4.75v when car is on.
p0406 (exhaust gas sensor A high) the sensor itself works as i tested this.
po113 intake air temp snesor 1 circuit high input
p2628 and 2631 (o2 sensor pumping current trim high bank 1 and 2)

 

Try replacing the battery...

 

I have CELs and all the codes are because of high voltage from a sensor. Since its 5 of them, its impossible all 5 sensors became faulty the same time. So it leads me to think its a problem either from the wiring to the PCM, or the PCM itself. THis all happened because my alternator's voltage regulator failed and voltage spiked in my car. But no blown fuses, i think. Wouldnt there be some sort of fuse to prevent this? But the car starts up rough and D light blinks after a little while. Car ran perfect before this.

Here are the codes:

p0113 high V from IAT sensor
po118 high V from ECT sensor
p0406 high V from EGR sensor
p2628 high V from bank 1 o2 sensor
p2631 high V from bank 2 o2 sensor

 

Not clear if you swapped the battery yet or not....you say you have a new battery, but not clear if those voltage readings are of the new battery. 11.8V at rest means the battery isn't charged. It should be over 12V with no load on it.

 

Year, Make, and Model of car?

 

Post history is mostly 3G TL

 

Yep 2006 TL. But probably would happen to all Hondas of the era

 

Can anyone help me find a general diagram of where the temp sensors for coolant, air intake, EGR all connect back into? I have a short in it, but want to know how to proceed.
All are located around the throttle body and all connect to the same main "harness".

Do the bank 1 and 2 o2 sensors also connect here? have codes for them too.

 

MODERATOR NOTE: Thread moved to model specific forum.

 

@PgLgGrg You have a couple of threads open right now. The other thread says you found a short somewhere. This thread says you replaced the alternator, but unclear about whether you replaced the battery.

 

Sorry I’m updating as I get new info but don’t know if I can delete the idler threads. Don’t like to spam.

but yes alternator and battery replaced. All codes have their sensors sharing a harness, so think it’s a short somewhere on the harness

 

your constant new threads say otherwise, lets keep them in a single place

merged

 

@PgLgGrg Based on the low charging & battery voltage and all those codes, I suspect something is wrong with your charging system. Measure the output voltage at the alternator and measure the voltage drop on the battery cables to the alternator.

 

Ive taken a look and i think its actually a short circuit. The PCM is receiving high voltage signals from all these sensors, and all these sensors are located near the throttle body. So I'm hoping its a short in that area. Intake air temp sensor, Engine coolant temp sensor, Exhaust gas recirculation sensor, bank 1 and 2 o2 sensors. Had a Input shaft speed sensor code that disappeared, but my tranny goes to safe mode after a few mins of driving. P0717.

Any idea how to proceed?

 

🙄

ANYWAY, here's the wiring diagrams for the stuff you asked for in the other thread:

 

Check G101 & G102 grounds.

 

So it turned out to be a severed wire. It was the first wire int hat big harness connector under the intake. Will post a pic if anyone is interested.
Mix of luck and knowing what to look for. If this wire was one of the ones hidden under, id never have guessed or found it.

Tested it by lining them up together and starting the car. Lights went away. ended up just soldering and wrapping tape over it. phew

 

Any know what U0073 is?
i can’t get rid of this code
it’s related to the can bus
how can I find out if the can bus is connected correctly

 

I would say no luck & a very solid diag.
Electrical testing and using your Scan tool correctly resulted in a fix.
Skill & knowledge from others is the only factors here. Lol
Well done and have a great day!
Cheers! 🍻

 

Could you share the picture im having this exact same issue and i see a rip wire around were you say you found yours and i want to make sure im right, would really appreciate it thank you

 

Deleted most pics but here’s what I have. This is after I soldered them. Otherwise it was literally like someone took a sharp razor and just severed it. I’m really lucky It was the one way out in the right and somewhere I could see.

it’s between the fuse box, intake and right side of the engine.

 

Mine looked like it was chowed off 😂 thanks for the help

 

Hope that’s exactly it! Try and dry fit it and let them make contact, and the lights should disappear. If they do, bingo