V-Sic

I just hit 24k and replaced front pads, I bought the pads from acura for $190 and I paid about $60 for them to be installed. Total was $250, so $270 is not bad but try and bargain to payless for labor. Rear pads are still in good condition. I may go aftermarket next time around.

BEAR-AvHistory

I replaced my fronts a few weeks ago at 22,000 miles @ down to about 15% left..

$140+8 shipping for factory Brembo pads from an Acura dealer. Seen them as cheap as $135+ shipping. Its about a 20 minutes job since they are designed for quick replacement.


Picture show the old pads removed, you don't even have to remove the caliper to do the job. Just pull two pins, pull the pads, depress the pucks & slide the new pads/shims in.

The Honda box contains 4 pads, 4 shims & 4 tubes on no-squeal compound.



I also for no real good reason replaced the rotor's with Brembo drilled which are a bit pricey & $230+shipping a set. wanted to match the pad & rotor vender. Swapping rotors might add another 10 minutes to each side if you are doing it yourself.

You can definitely get cheaper rotors, plain from Brembo, or drilled, slotted form a few other vendors.

BTW if you do track days etc go with plain or slotted. The drilled ones can possiably get stress cracks.

Acuraboy7

Brembo doesn't make pads.

Acuraboy7

I spent about the same and won't have to replace the brakes at 40,000.

BEAR-AvHistory

Really,



Then I guess the Brembo box, Brembo copyrighted instruction sheet, logo stampings in the pads/shims & the printing on the grease tubes was all a mistake.

Interesting how you were the guy asking questions what to put on your car & now you are the expert on who makes pads & who doesn't.

Then you greatly overspent. I have pads on my pickup truck with 57,000 miles on them that cost $27 an axel at AutoZone. Even for theAcura Brembo caliper you should be able to get pads for about $95 an axel like the Italia Titanium Kevlar pad. There is a big difference in pads that stop well & those that last long. Hard surface long lasting pads are always cheaper.

Xbrakes makes a set for $55

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

can we get a good comparison between rotora & stoptech ? same things? any advantage over the other? Josh ??

Evader

I'm using Hawk HPS Street. IMO it's a very quiet pad. I posted an install back around Thanksgiving with some useful information. Do a search for Hawk Brake Pads and you'll find it

handy911

I am not good with cars in general...but this difference that some people replaced at 20K miles and some still have 50% left at 50K miles,....just sounds pretty strange...

1. I am at 23K miles, and I notice that the break starts squeaking very lightly when the engine is cold or just started...then it's gone after about 5 minute of driving..is this a sign that the squeaking will get worse and will need replacement soon?

2. I know this is wear and tear, so warranty is not gonna cover it...but if something needs replacement before its time or something breaks, are they gonna cover it? So, back to the question, under normal driving habits, we need to replace Acura TL's brakes at what mileage?

handy911

I tried to find the parts from the acura dealer website (stock for 06 tl) and found:

PAD SET, FR.

$53.43 MSRP
$42.74 Dealer Price
20% Your Savings



PartNumber 45022-SEP-A00
Part Ref Comment
VIN Low
VIN High
Color Description
Origin USA
Emission KA

What do you guys think for this price?

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

Ok, the main thing you're probably not realizing is, is that these cars come with either Small, regular brakes/calipers and some models 6MT transmission or TL Type S... have brembo 4 piston performance calipers.

the 5AT brakes, suck ass... but they can last people 50k+ miles if treated right.. brembos, even when cared for (no heavy braking/aggressive driving) still wont last you over 25k miles...

BEAR-AvHistory

Its the standard discounted price for a set non-Brembo front pads.

I paid $50 including shipping for my rear non-Brembo Honda factory pads which are similar to the non-Brembo fronts.

Brembo Fronts will run in general $135 & up + shipping. They are NOT interchangeable with the base pads.

Bearcat94

S'Alright though man, I, learned something new too.

Bearcat94

1. Like Blackura said, Brembo's vs. non-Brembo's. A little noise when cold isn't unusual. If you get a squeal consistently after they are warm, it's probably the metal squealer tab telling you to get your pads replaced.

2. Yes, if the excess wear is caused by an actual defect. For example if a caliper sticks closed due to a failure and that causes excess pad wear, they would replace the caliper and the pad.

Acuraboy7

The original brakes are not Brembo, the are Acura Brakes on Brembo calipers. I picked the brakes for longer brake life and less dust. I don't feel like having a Brake job every 20K, I drive 30K a year for 2 years then I turn in my car for another its silly for me to waste the time and effort 3 times. I never said I was an expert that why I put this post out there I wanted suggestions and ideas. when I made my choice I posted how pleased I was with what I picked.

BEAR-AvHistory

The box in the picture came out of another standard brown Honda parts box from Troy Acura marked HONDA part # 45022-SEP-A60 PAD SET, FR.

This is also the part # listed in the brake diagarms.

BTW: This pad that Brembo uses for the Acura TL can also be used on other car brands OE Brembo setups so why would they use a different non-Brembo pad on the TL assembly line?

BEAR-AvHistory

Here is a list of cars with Brembo packages from the factory and they all have the same Brembo part # for the pad.

Acura TL 04-07 M/T
Cadillac CTS-V 04-06
Ford Mustang GT 05
Mitsubishi Lancer EVO 2/98-06
Subaru WRX STi 03-06
Volvo S60 04-06, V70 R AWD 04-06

Legend2TL

The brake pads that come with the Brembo's are most probably Brembo pads as well. Brembo works pretty closely on their OEM applications and I seriously doubt they would sign up to a OEM arrangement where their pads were NOT used with their calipers. It also makes logistical sense since Brembo would ship a complete caliper assembly with the pads in place, then mount them to the wheel knuckle hanger at the factory. So they may have Acura marking on the Acura parts box but the pads are sourced from Brembo.

I wonder if the pads are different for the various car makers since I've seen a few CTV's with the Brembo setup but not as much dust.

don5504

ever thought about hawk pads? I've heard nothing but good stuff about them from the guys on www.vwvortex.com (I am a former vw owner traded in for my type-s).

the only hawk pads I have experience with are the HP ceramic pads. But I think those are the least performance orientated pads out of their street applications. With the HPS being second and HP Plus being the most performance orientated.

btw cross drilled serves no real purpose and could lead to stress cracks/fractures at the drilled points. Slotted aren't bad but honestly its probably a waste on our cars also as well as a waste of money because all it really does is help vent the gases a little better at the expense of heat dissipation. I know there will be those who disagree with me but you'll have to ask yourself why doesn't Formula1 race cars have them or pretty much any other motorsport have them except bike racing. I'm sure there maybe a few out there who do but for the majority they are just solid vented rotors.

In fact the removal of material to make them slotted or crossed drilled could make them less effective in braking due to how heat is dissipated. but most of us will never drive to the point where it will be noticed so it probably won't hurt to put on crossed drilled or slotted rotors. but it will increase the bling factor if thats what you want.

anyways if you want some real info on this here is a good link

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3423309

i know its from a VW forum but physics is physics and the same principles will apply here.

D

me1abPSU

For what it's worth...

According to my service record, I had 29,528 miles on my '04 TL MT before they replaced the pads. And the only reason they replaced them was because I complained that the car was pulling hard right when I braked heavily with 4 people in the car. They also resurfaced the rotors. That was back in December of '05.

I replaced the rotors and pads with OEM May of 2007 and it cost me $680 (parts and labor). My receipt says I was at 56,592 miles when I had that done.

So on average I'm getting 28,300 miles before needing new pads.

I have yet to replace the rear pads, and I currently have around 73,000 miles on it.

I don't baby the car at all(I have the 104 MPH speeding ticket to prove it). I don't slow myself by downshifting either. A wise man once told me "Brakes are cheap, clutches are not"

BEAR-AvHistory

Corvettes & Porsche 's are delivered with them from the factory so it can't hurt.

don5504

yea i guess. wonder why they would do that. hmmm makes your brakes wear out faster who could possibly benefit from that. and i'm sure they probably figure if you can afford a vette or porsche you probably aren't hurting for money either. and honestly how many vettes or porsches do you think will ever see as many miles as most of us tl owners?

anyways people should buy whatever makes them happy and makes the most sense to them.

D

BEAR-AvHistory

My Vette has over 400,000 miles on it, but then it has soild rotors

kipwa007

My pads are dust at 13,700 -- i have an 07 TL-S. Afraid I'm going to get raped on Monday when I talk to the service manager. I'm not an expert brake installer, so should I order the pads and give it a shot? Will I need to resurface the rotors like the service rep recommended? I get a feeling they are gonna hit me for anywhere between 500-600 for the front brakes and I'm not cool with that...

SodaLuvr

Not required, but I highly recommend rotor resurfacing. It allows the pads to bed-in faster.

BEAR-AvHistory

If the discs are not scored or grooved you should be OK.

The good news is the Brembo pads are the easiest pads to change I have ever done.

SodaLuvr

FSM says that as long there isn't serious scoring (I think it gives a max depth), as long as runout does not exceed a certain spec, and as long as disc thickness variation does not exceed a certain amount, it is okay to install new pads (the same ones as previous) without resurfacing.

However, who really wants to bother taking all of those measurements? It's just easier to resurface.

BEAR-AvHistory

The issue is the actual resurfacing process. Honda wants it done on the car; hard to do when you are doing the change at home.

Not sure how good an 'off the car' resurface is according to Honda's specific requirements.

joerockt

I changed my oem pads Friday on my 08 TL-S, and they are clearly marked "Brembo" on the back of the pads.

don5504

interesting i didn't know that but i'm sure if done off the car correctly the end result would be good enough.

maybe thats another good reason to just go with some cheap rotors. even if you have to replace them every brake job it will probably be cheaper than buying brembo or other high dollar rotors once and having them turned once also. then you could take the time to have them turned somewhere because you have new rotors on the car. because i'm sure not everyone who has purchased a tl has always had the rotors turned while on the car.

btw if you have 400k miles on your vette you're the exception not the rule.

BEAR-AvHistory

True, but it is a low milage car only 10K per year.

That being said its not a numbers match car since its had its share of new parts over the years. Body shell & frame are all original, but just about everything else has been replaced.

don5504

wow maybe i'm using that funny type of math but that would make it about 40yrs old no? impressive.

D

BEAR-AvHistory

Your math is OK its a 1967

Acuraboy7

Well then the tech lied to me I guess. what can I say.

SodaLuvr

The reason for the on the vehicle resurfacing is that some people do a lousy job of resurfacing on a bench lathe. As a result it's possible for the rotor to have more runout after the resurfacing than before. In addition, it's possible for the hub to have some runout, so even with a perfect resurfacing job, you'd still have a runout problem. However, this is very unlikely, and usually a good bench lathe job is all that you'll need.

If there's still a runout problem after a good bench lathe resurfacing job, then you can use runout correction shims (also known as "brake align"). GM approves the use of runout correction shims in addition to using an OCL.

Bearcat94

Well, my OE Brembo pads are shot.

Tried to get a measurement when I did the tire rotation a week or so ago and thought I had ~3mm left. Service manual says the pads are 8.8mm to 10mm with a service limit of 1.6mm.

Figured I had a few thousand miles left. Guess not. The driver side front started squealing this evening.

~14,500 miles. '07 TL-S, 5AT. I have not gone easy on the brakes - I've driven 'em pretty hard - but I've only put ~1/3 (certainly less than 1/2) of the miles on the car. The wife did most of the driving and does not brake aggressively.

Going to stick with OE Pads; at least until I have to replace the rotors. Once the OE repair/replacement cost reaches break-even (~$550 I think), I'm going slotted with a DIY install.

I *think* the rotors are OK. No grooves or scores to catch when I run a finger nail over the rotor center-to-edge or back the other way. Is there a better way to check this?

SodaLuvr

The only correct way to evaluate rotor condition is to measure the rotor thickness using a brake rotor micrometer.

http://www.toolsource.com/brake-roto...r-p-98183.html

Bearcat94

Thanks SodaLuvr. I assume this has to be done with the rotor off the car?

SodaLuvr

No, you can measure the rotor thickness without any brake system disassembly whatsoever. Just remove the tire and measure the rotor.