hempdiddy

Last year I bought a 2004 TL with only 63k miles on it. I'm seeing some odd readings in my tach when cruising a steady speed on flat terrain. Described as follows:

Gentle acceleration to 50 mph. When the trans kicks down to its highest gear (5th), the rpms drop into the 1500 range. However, the trans will not "settle in". One second 1500rpms, then the next second 1600rpms, back to 1500, then 1600, 1500, 1600, and so on. It's like its "searching". My foot is locked into place and the terrain is flat. Should just be cruising. The symptoms persist under cruise control. At 50 mph, once the highest gears kicks in, the trans searches between rpms. HOWEVER, when not in cruise control and I slide the shift knob into SportShift mode and keep it in 5th, the rpms stay steady and the symptoms disappear. What is going on?

Other info: I'm driving in about 30 degrees temperature and I recently had the rubber timing belt replaced. All other functions are normal. What is going on?

PgLgGrg

Where the hell did you get the oldest model year of the UA6, with 66k miles. Thats practically still in a diaper! (I do hope its actually an 04 with 66k miles, and not a rebuilt that was sold to you).

Tried to cruise at lets say 70mph? see if a higher RPM keeps it stable? Either way, its a weird issue that should not be happening.

Pair of TLs

How old is the transmission fluid?

hempdiddy

Got lucky. Was in the right place at the right time. Doesn't happen often, but I'm glad it did.

hempdiddy

I'm not sure. Probably a good time to change it and see if there's improvement, eh? Is this a driveway type of job, or is it too complicated?

PgLgGrg

Quite easy. Ive never done an oil change, but I was able to do this myself as the first maintenance in my life a few months back.

-place something to cover the driveway when you spill some trans fluid first.
-Put the car on ramps. 2 will suffice, but 4 will make it even.
-Taking off the plastic cover at the bottom is probably the most annoying part. A few of those plastic pull tabs, as well as one bolt.
-removing the drain bolt with a ratchet is the hardest. If its been on there tight, you might need some good amount of force...or a longer wrench.
-id imagine its like an oil change when you unbolt the drain plug. Put some sort of container under (and slightly ahead) of the bolt. Wear gloves, and doesnt matter if you get it on you, Inspect the drain plug; likely you will find metal shavings stuck on.
*here is something I did, that others may not find advisable: After letting it drain, i turn on the engine, shift through the gears and you get more fluid out. 2-3 times and i rev the car 2-300rpm. I was able to get out about 5Qt out, instead of the standard 3qt. This way, you get the most amount of the old oil out, instead of having to mix some of the old oil and doing more changes than required. 2 changes this way yielded me 90% new oil. You would need 4 changes the regular way to reach around 90% new*
-put the bolt back, torque it (dont need to overtighten). Previous owner only put back half of the tabs for the cover, which I appreciated. Did the job for me.
-If you have some sort of way to measure how much fluid was drained, approx, you can use that figure and blindly pour close to that amount back into the trans. When you get close, you can check, instead of constantly refilling and checking.
-Use appropriate fluid. Most use Honda ATF DW-1, but its pricey and rare. I and several others had no issues using valvoline Maxlife Quite cheap and widely available. I also know people used some Redline ATF as well.
-There is a fill bolt, but i dont imagine many people have one thats long enough, so I just filled it through the dipstick hole. Straw for length taped to funnel did it for me. Doesnt take super long as some people claim.
I WOULD SUGGEST BEFORE DRAINING TO FIRST SEE IF YOU HAVE A FUNNEL AND A TUBE OR STRAW LONG ENOUGH SO YOU CAN REFILL. IT WILL SUCK WHEN THE CAR IS EMPTY, AND YOU REALIZE YOU DONT HAVE A WAY TO PUT TRANS FLUID BACK
-Let the engine run for a bit ( i also shifted through the gears to get adequate fluid back into everywhere when i used my method), take for a drive, and then check the levels again if it needs a top up.

Pair of TLs

Agree with PgLgGrg..but there's TWO 10mm bolts along with the 5 push pins holding the shield on---the long one goes in the front and the short one goes in the rear "indented" spot. I don't know why the front one is so long, but if you reinstall it in the rear, you'll bottom it out on the frame and mess up the threads and bend the bolt.

You may need a 3/8" breaker bar to bust loose the drain bolt.
Use a new crush washer on the bolt or it will drip.

And DEFINITELY decide how you're going to refill it before you drain it.

The '04s also have a trans filter that can be replaced.
I'm sure you can find a vid on the interwebs and there's threads here on AZ that go into mind-numbing detail.

The '04s are prone to trans failures, so I would recommend doing the full 3X3 and filter--it's time and money well spent.

hempdiddy

Thank you sirs; that's really good info.