Anyone know what fuse #7 does?

Its marked as "backup" from the driver side kick panel.
Its currently drawing 3 miliamps. Which cause my fully charged battery to die in 2-3 days.

I don't drive it much so it just sits.

 

I'd be curious to know, too. I haven't done any mods except for the VLED Triton's and by Optoma battery dies in 36-72 hours, too. The VLED's are only on, however, when the car is on, IE, parking lights/turn lights.

 

You would have to do a battery amp draw test like I did and start pulling fuses.

Im sure someone has an answer. I cant be the only one with this issue.

 

Cool. How do perform an amp test? I'm assuming I need a multi-meter?

What aftermarket electrical stuff have you done to your car, if any? I've just got LED's. I don't know how THEY would draw current if they're not actually on.

 

i'd assume its for the reverse lights but i could be wrong

 

I have interior led in the map and dome light. I doubt they draw anything. If you unplug fuse #6. It takes out interior lighting. But #7 still draws for me. So if u want hook up a multimeter and test. Unplug #6 to make sure its not your interior. I have the same led bulbs in my 4runner. I replaced the battery on it also. Did a draw test and it read 0. So my led's are good.

 

 

What year is your TL? Is it NAVI?

If you are drawing 3 mA on fuse #7, it's most likely the NAVI unit. There is a TSB (05-029) to fix it. If you don't have NAVI, then I dunno...

 

I can't find the TSB info in the garage anywhere.

My battery just died after a day of not driving it, and had not had any hiccups prior.

HOWEVER, I'm sure that my battery was old and needed replaced anyway. I'm pretty sure that my HFL is dead or dying. Voice commands are still working, but the phone will not link up any longer.

 

Make sure the head light switch is not on AUTO. Turn it to OFF.

 

3mA over 3 full days is just over 2AH. That should not kill a fully charged battery thats anywhere remotely near healthy. Just as a reference, I barely use the TL lately, it is happy sitting for a week or more and still starts. This is with a 4-5 year old OEM battery. The longest I had it sit was a full 3 weeks and it just barely didn't start. It probably would have started if I wasn't messing with the radio for 10 minutes with the DRL's on. I just leave it on a trickle charger now.

You checked the consumption on every fuse and #7 was dramatically higher? How do you know the battery was fully charged? Did you ever measure OCV after sitting a few hours with a reliable meter?

 

^^^^Yeah, good point that I totally missed. 3A is too much. 3 mA is nothing.

 

 

I have the same problem. I dont drive my car on the weekends, and on Monday mornings it would be dead. Thought it might be the radio amp but I disconnected the amp and the test light was still on at that fuse location. So on Friday Evenings I park the car in the garage and take the fuse out and re-insert in on Monday Morning and it starts right up. I searched for the "TSB (05-029)" fix but I can not find it. Can you please post a link to it? This is driving me crazy having to do this every weekend lol.

 

Try: /tsb/3gTL/b05-029.pdf.

If that doesn't work, search "Acura TL TSB 05-029" on a good browser.

NVM-- do the search, as IB is not letting us link to a competing Acura forum.

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-technical-service-bulletins-tsbs-3g-garage-j-016-a-613659/

 

I found the HFL disconnect one, so I will try that tonight and test the fuse location again and hopefully that will work. I am hoping that is the issue because actually my HFL does not work currently, so maybe it has gone bad and draining the battery(Thats what I am praying for since I dont use it anyway).

 

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and you cannot right-click and save as, either *shrug*

this is why! (acurazine spam)
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you can find it on acura-world.
www <aw>com/tsb/3gTL/b05-029.pdf

 

Chad, read the friggin instructions....you know, the ones at the top of that page that are in LARGE BOLD RED print

 

Fuse #7 under dash feeds a LOT of stuff. door multiplex control unit, security light, clock, combination switch, display panel control unit, immobilizer circuit, gauge control, navigation unit, xm receiver...

Fuse#7 under dash gets its power from Fuse15 underhood. And so does Fuse 5,6,8 and 9 underdash.. they all get power from fuse 15 underhood

 

another way to tell if you have a parasitic draw, turn everything off, close doors and remove any given fuse and put an ammeter (amp meter) in series in the circuit where the fuse is mounted. If you see a small current, then you have found the bad circuit. I would start underhood, then drill down to underdash for futher isolation. But you need a schematic.

 

Sorry guys I been away for a bit.. I beleive its actually 3a draw..

My Tl is a 2007 tls with navi.. Ill read the tsb and check back.

 

well, the tsb is for a 2005, mines a 2007, im not sure If I wan tot replace the module. its about 200 dollars. There is no real troubleshooting procedure.

"outside air temp should display ---" is one of the likely reason, but my outside temp works fine.

 

If you have 3A when the car is off, you have a problem for sure. The car wouldn't start in a few hours in cold weather.

 

How would this drain the battery when the car is off? It would not do that according to the wiring diagram.

 

yeah.. Mines is always off.. I never leave it on auto..

im going to charge my battery tonight and just pull #7 fuse and drive it..

Id like to see if it affects anything. I pulled it prior to this drain, and the car started up.

 

I noticed after I changed the front parking/turn signal bulb to an LED switch back that there is a very very slight glow to the LEDs with the key off. Turning the switch from auto to off stopped that. I never did measure the current draw. Keep in mind LEDs will give off light with lower voltage than the OEM bulb.

 

^^^ mines have no glow.. I have interior dome only..

Anyone else have any ideas..

Id really like to know what #7 does and if there is a diagram. Im sure I can figure it out. Im sure other have a draw also.. Its just that not everyone lets the car sit for a few days..

 

These are from the 04-05 helms book. I think they recently modified that book to be 04-06. Notice there are 2 fuse 7's on one of the schematics.. Those are 2 different fuses

 

oh, here is 07/08

 

3amp drain is a lot. I am surprised your battery would crank that after all night of that kind of a draw.. especially in cold weather..

Anyway, your troubleshooting procedure could be one that starts at the "top of the circuit" and checks each branch or circuit path, individually, to isolate the direction the current is flowing. This will lead you to the short or the defective device.

Or you can start at the bottom, such as 1 of the many devices that #7 supports and disconnect only the XM receiver as seen on page 10-10. Then check for a drain. If drain still exists, then move over to another device..

Or you can start in the middle and disconnect K5 or X35, as seen on page 10-10. Disconnect one or the other to find which branch the drain is located.

As you read page 10-10. Notice X35 is connected to many devices. The dot on the lines means each wire is connected to logically the same location. So in other words, all those individual sub-circuits are in parallel with each other.

 

Here is the 07 Underdash MICU reference from page 50 as seen on page 10-10

btw, each of those sub-circuits have another detailed drawing of their own.. So it get's pretty nested or "layered". Best thing to do is try to eliminate sections one at a time by disconnecting it and rechecking for current drain as you go.

 

Thanks Man.. Ill keep you updated.. Its a bit cold out. So it maybe a while until I check it out. In the mean time I'll read through the diagram.

 

I got your message bpowa. your message box is full.. I just watched the video above and he uses almost the same procedure as I mentioned above for finding a parasitic draw.

Ericthecarguy mentioned that some luxury cars have to "go to sleep" before the power shuts off completely. And these TL's are the same way on the interior. But it only takes about a few minutes for it to go to sleep after the key is removed and the door is shut.

Also, ericthecarguy said anything under 50ma is normal at the battery. And he put an amp meter directly on the battery to measure any current draw. And I think that is a good place to start to determine overall if you have a circuit problem or not. So, do that then tell what the amp meter says. Make sure doors are closed and everything is off and key removed..

If you saw a spike on your ammeter of 11amps and you cannot reproduce it, then you likely bumped something as you said in your Message.

If your battery has 50ma or less draw when everything is off, then you may have a problem with your batter or the starter or the alternator. Some places will check your battery for free, like O'rielly's.


Do you have a custom alarm or stereo or anything? If so, try to remove power from those devices too.

 

A 3mA draw is nothing. If you got 50mA and under is considered standard on our cars. I recommend checking the condition of the battery first. It might not be holding a charge. Common problems are 250mA draw from hfl. And 3amp draw on mdx for a/c relay stuck on

 

Had a 3 a draw on my '05 RL. Also bluetooth radio was not working. Long story short, the blue tooth / HFL module had shorted out and was constantly drawing power. Even with fuse out, when went to replace it, the top side of the module was warm. This should be impossible, but....

Replaced with a module from junk yard for $50. Recharged battery and no more issues.

 

Can someone please post a part # for the MICU and the Relay Control Module?

I want to order these parts so badly...My battery has to be disconnected DAILY or else it dies after a few days. We have troubleshot the draw down to the #7 fuse. I dont know if the actual problem is the MICU or in the relay control module. If i go to acura delray website, I cannot locate the part. If i call the parts dept, they cant find it either. Its a good hour and ahalf to my closest Acura dealer so I would prefer to not have to drive in just to get this diagnosed there. As it stands now, I have to manually lock my doors before my lock function will work on my fob. All 4 locks have to be locked manually and I can finally activate my alarm. The unlock works with no issues and my windows all roll down if i hold unlock.

 

Did you check this service bulletin?

 

I am fairly confident I had the acura dealer in OKC check to see if my car had not received any bulletins and they said I had them all...however, I will call up there and check specifically. Thanks for the tip. I sure hope it is the culprit. Free would be sooo nice.

 

Yep, looks like my car hasn't had this done yet. Gonna schedule a time to take her in next week hopefully and get this done. I havent noticed my nav display unit remaining on after I turn it off so I highly doubt this fixes my issue. fingers crossed!