Fuse #7 battery drain?

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Old Oct 31, 2014 | 05:47 PM
  #41  
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That service bulletin only applies to a 2005 with the VIN numbers of 19UUA6...5A000001 through 19UUA6...5A030286. Its not for my car, which is a 2005 and it surely does not apply to a 2007. Sorry!

by the way, I popped the #7 fuse once and 1 other one while I was changing a bulb without the lights off.. And it popped something.. And I never have figured out what it popped. I disconnected everything and couldnt seem to isolate the issue. I assumed the MICU could be at fault.. but I never did pursue it because I made a work around for re-lighting the bulbs on my navi. But I never did figure out the issue. I never have checked to see if I have a parasitic draw but then again I have not had a problem starting my car. So, I would be curious if a MICU would fix yours. But at the moment I cant find a MICU on acura diagrams


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Last edited by Chad05TL; Oct 31, 2014 at 05:53 PM.
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Old May 3, 2017 | 10:14 AM
  #42  
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Was this ever resolved? I have a 2007 TL (no NAV) and am on my 4th battery. My mechanic claims that there is a short somewhere, but that the draw on the battery stops when fuse #7 is pulled out. Thanks.
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Old May 3, 2017 | 10:18 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by TL2007NJ
Was this ever resolved? I have a 2007 TL (no NAV) and am on my 4th battery. My mechanic claims that there is a short somewhere, but that the draw on the battery stops when fuse #7 is pulled out. Thanks.
Did you read through the thread

Originally Posted by Thomasv
Can someone please post a part # for the MICU and the Relay Control Module?

I want to order these parts so badly...My battery has to be disconnected DAILY or else it dies after a few days. We have troubleshot the draw down to the #7 fuse. I dont know if the actual problem is the MICU or in the relay control module. If i go to acura delray website, I cannot locate the part. If i call the parts dept, they cant find it either. Its a good hour and ahalf to my closest Acura dealer so I would prefer to not have to drive in just to get this diagnosed there. As it stands now, I have to manually lock my doors before my lock function will work on my fob. All 4 locks have to be locked manually and I can finally activate my alarm. The unlock works with no issues and my windows all roll down if i hold unlock.
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Old May 3, 2017 | 10:39 AM
  #44  
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I did read through the post. Is the MICU the solution? I've seen other posts that state that the Hands Free unit is the problem. Other posts noted that it could be the locking mechanism.
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Old May 3, 2017 | 10:42 AM
  #45  
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Do you have an HFL unit attached still? That's one of the biggest offenders. I'd start there, then the lock. then the MICU.
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Old May 3, 2017 | 10:43 AM
  #46  
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OK. Will do. Thanks.
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Old May 3, 2017 | 03:20 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Thomasv
Yep, looks like my car hasn't had this done yet. Gonna schedule a time to take her in next week hopefully and get this done. I havent noticed my nav display unit remaining on after I turn it off so I highly doubt this fixes my issue. fingers crossed!
Same symptoms here....if the car sits for a whole weekend, the battery will be dead, and I haven't noticed the nav display unit remaining on afterwards. If you end up getting yours done be sure to update whether or not it's fixed!
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Old May 3, 2017 | 03:25 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by TheSauceBoss
Same symptoms here....if the car sits for a whole weekend, the battery will be dead, and I haven't noticed the nav display unit remaining on afterwards. If you end up getting yours done be sure to update whether or not it's fixed!
Originally Posted by thoiboi
Do you have an HFL unit attached still? That's one of the biggest offenders. I'd start there, then the lock. then the MICU.
.
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Old May 8, 2017 | 07:20 AM
  #49  
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Yeah I disconnected the HFL and I was using a meter to test for phantom leaks, and I noticed a fuse was drawing a significant amount of current every 30 seconds or so. I can't remember exactly which fuse it was of the top of my head (I did it about a month ago)....but after finding this thread, I would bet on it being the same #7.

Ultimately my solution was to just not let the car sit for over 3 days and I would be fine....not exactly the optimal solution, but I'm going to have another look at it this week. I don't think it's my navi unit staying on but I'll update accordingly.
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Old May 9, 2017 | 09:46 AM
  #50  
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is the #7 fuse under dash or under hood? It could be a bad relay switch. Try to find the parasitic draw by pulling the relay out until you find the bad relay. I think the culprit relay is MG clutch relay (under hood), so check that one first.
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Old Jun 25, 2017 | 04:01 PM
  #51  
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I dont know if anyone has figured out their problem but I had about a 600 milliamp drain coming from interior fuses 6 and 7. Whatever it was was causing the HFL unit to stay on. I finally unplugged the master power window switch in the drivers door and it dropped to 20 milliamps and the HFL unit shut down. Oddly enough I plugged the master power window switch back in and after starting the car and shutting it off the drain is gone. Dont know how or why and dont really care as I've been dealing with dead batteries for almost 3 years. So to anyone having this problem you may want to try that and see if it helps. Just thought that I would share my experience hoping it would help others.
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