shamu

Kaixen H11/8500k
I have a set of H11 HID converter kit with a harness relay kit. The HID is a plug & play, but i don't want to use the plug & use, because i don't want to mess up the original wiring. So i bought a set of the harness relay kit. Now I don't know what cable to cut & which wires goes with which. I would really appreciate it if someone would be able to help me out. Thanks.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

Wow.. thats a mess. Seems like there is more wires then neccessary? Thats how the kit came? The relay harness shouldn't have that many connections if it was suppose to be "plug and play". Seems like there is splicing to do with those naked wires they have, hopefully someone can chime in.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

This is how I interpret the wiring:

#7 Goes to the Positive on the Battery
#1 and #3 should go to the ballast giving it power, preferably at connector #15 of the ballast and the other corresponding connector that you forgot to number for the other ballast.
#13 & #14 should connect to #11 and #12 of the bulb and #16 &#17 should connect to #18 &#19 of the other bulb.
#4 &#2 need to be grounded
#10 & #20 I don't get the purpose
#5, #6, #8, #9, #21 & #22... don't know WTF that's all about.

Cisko TLS

that relay is not for the KIT! As you can see in the picture that #1&#3 do not match with #15 so you have the wrong RELAY buddy

Cisko TLS

#8 & 9 ,#20 AND 21 GO TO THE POWER of the cable where the H8 foglight bulb goes connected to

Cisko TLS

5&6 i have no clue what the F are they

shamu

If i follow yours direction, i guess i would have to cut #1, 3, 15 and the other wire i have forgotten to label, so that i can connect them together.
One question..which wire do i connect for the on/off switch for the fog lights?

shamu

You right the connector #1 & #3 or different from connector #15. I have a second set of harness kit from diff. vendor, and they come with the same connector. Both vendors are compatible for H11 fog light, as specified. I bought both relays from ebay.
What is your recommendation? Should i cut #1,3, 15 and the other wire i have forgotten to label to connect them together?

First set of relay
Second set of relay

chuanger

The two relays seem to be the same. I'd use the 2nd relay simply because there is a snap-on adapter already fit onto the +/- leads, whereas the first relay just has the two leads (+/-) without the snap-on.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

why do you have an h11, the 07-08 are h8

Cisko TLS

Hid's bulbs H8 and H11 it doesn't matter is the same base

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

Starting off with Bulbs- 14 with 11, 13 with 12, 16 with 19, 17 with 18.
Ballast power- 20 with 15, and 10 with incoming power of ballast on the left
Now depending on how you gonna wire the incoming power to the ballast( either cutting the H11 plugs and splicing or buying H11 male plugs to connect to female H11 plugs 3 and 1 ) 8 and 21 are negative and 9 and 22 are positive.
It looks like each plug has its own negative for the H11 plugs 3 and 1, so 2 and 4 are grounded
7 is battery power
5 and 6 are negative and positive incoming to relay.
Where is the switch in all of this? I need to see the switch to see how many connections or if its just a toggle switch. PM me if you need more help

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

i have bought HID kits with adapters so that i can change the incoming power from ie D2S to 9006





the pins from the cables attach the to adapter and then to the bulbs oem incoming power

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

the only thing different for the second relay kit is the incoming power to the relay. it looks like it comes with another harness for the incoming power switch.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

if you say so... I've seen people install the h11 on the h8 housing and a tab broke off

ze2o

I wouldn't rewire anything and make sure you have a H11 kit with H11 harness

Base on your first large picture:
1 (driver side since shorter) & 3 (pass) connect to 15
2 = negative battery (driver side of course)
4 = ignore since 2 is already doing the grounding
5 & 6 = original factory connection (you have to know the = and - here. this will be the "on/off" connection)
7 = positive battery
8, 9 , 10, 20, 21, 22 are useless since you are using a relay. They are for plug and play set up and you can remove them by cutting through the black rubber piece.
11 & 12 = 13 & 14 (they are shape specific)
16 & 17 = 18 & 19 (they are shape specific)

I would buy some spare foglight fuses just in case

Cisko TLS

take an H11 BULB and a H8 bulb same base go to an HID spot and tell them you want H8 and gonna come with the box that got h11...

Cisko TLS

non will adapted to the connection on your ballast you HID KIT is one of the older kits so i highly doubt they even make those relay. They could be some cutting on those wire to adapted so i can't help you know im just letting you know because i could and know how to put them on

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

4 needs to be grounded too because 2 isn't connected with 4. each plug has its own ground( retarded wiring harness)
8,9,10,20,21,22 are all needed to connect incoming power to the ballast unless he is going to cut the connector off of 15 which would be stupid and not covered under warrenty if something should fail.

All he needs is an h11 adapter to fit in 8,9,22,21 or splice in a male h11 harness with 8,9, and 22,21

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

Maybe the ghetto ass spot you go to in the bx...(Let me guess webster or fordham rofl)

I got my hid kit from "richie v6", official azine vendor... H8, 3000k (bellow the price ur ghetto spot pays for it, ie. Cost, not retail)

Like I said, if its h8, get h8, not h11, there is a tiny difference, unless you want a rice sized piece of plastic inside the foglight housing

I know what am talkin about and will bet on it, I got a pair of h8 bulbs in my crib right now, care to compare?

Cisko TLS

ahhh to baddd non of the above Stillhere damn you must really HATE lol... which i like that i got anything on it that H8 AND H11 are the same BASE! so if care to COMPARE listen im always heavy in both side of my pockets you let me know. Ask nasty188 his stock bulb said h8 he bought a kit and it was h11 when in like nothing he had 4500 to match his stock than he changed it to 8000k top and bottom when bulb they put h11... damn and to bad it wasnt GHETTO....

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

Rather just hit up Hidny.con

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

Rather just hit up Hidny.con

Cisko TLS

listen i understand where you coming from but its the SAME BASE h11 fits in the h8 with no mod.... is the same bulb just the h8 is a smaller bulb SAME base just like 9004 and the 9007

rockyfeller

iTrader: (6)

It's better sticking with the same type bulb like Al said. It's not just the base. I know the tabs will fit in. You can make a lot of bulbs fit in a lot of places, just trim some tabs and add some rubber washers. I have done it all over the years but there are some lessons you learn when you don't do things right. Ask me how I know.

It is the way the housing/reflectors, glass etc. is all designed. If one bulb is shorter/longer than designed and stuck in the wrong housing the way the light beam is focused it TOTALLY out of wack. I don't want to go into extreme detail here but there is a lot of engineering that goes into it and there are tight tolerances. If something is off by even .25" it makes a BIG difference. You can get a narrow beam that you can't see with and blinds people like a laser or you can have a beam that is scattered all over the freakin place and in the trees and out in the woods. Good quality HID bulbs take into account the specs of the original halogen bulb. The place where the light arc is created is the same specification and measurement of where the filament of the halogen bulb would be. Crappy HID bulbs are universal and only the bases are different.

All these types of bulbs are readily available, why interchange anyways? You got H8? Get H8. You got H11? Get H11, even if the tabs fit.