First Oil Change Question..
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Suburb of Manassas, VA
First Oil Change Question..
I know that the owner's manual says to leave the original crankcase fill in until the system tells you that it's time to change, but I still have a question about this.
I'm accustomed to changing the oil in a new engine at 1000 miles, then at 3000, and then every 4000 thereafter. In under 2 months, I am going on a week-long road trip and am a little anxious about having the factory fill in the pan for the trip.
My question is, do you believe there is any problem changing the oil at whatever mileage I may have shortly before the trip (it may be in the area of 2000+ miles by then) instead of leaving the original fill in until I get back?
Thanks.
I'm accustomed to changing the oil in a new engine at 1000 miles, then at 3000, and then every 4000 thereafter. In under 2 months, I am going on a week-long road trip and am a little anxious about having the factory fill in the pan for the trip.
My question is, do you believe there is any problem changing the oil at whatever mileage I may have shortly before the trip (it may be in the area of 2000+ miles by then) instead of leaving the original fill in until I get back?
Thanks.
This is probably the 5th time I have posted this.
We did an analysis of the factory fill, and found the chemistry it is high in, principally moly disulphide. I have posted link to the analyses in this Forum in The RR Journals
So I found an aftermarket additive that puts back what Honda wants in itts engines, but allows you to do the best thing, which is drain at 1k miles, add regular mineral oil, and a bottle of my additive.
The additive is Valvoline MaxLife Engine Protector (MLEP). I got it at Pep Boys.
I did this on my S2000, and will do it on the TL. Many S2000 owners followed my rpcoedure and have posted outstanding wear rates in their used-oil analyses. So it works.
Why change the oil early? There can be dirt left from the sand casting, mfg dirt, and silicone from all the seals. All sorts of garbage. I change all the fluids early on, especially the high wear areas, like trannies, and where applicable, the differentials.
We did an analysis of the factory fill, and found the chemistry it is high in, principally moly disulphide. I have posted link to the analyses in this Forum in The RR Journals
So I found an aftermarket additive that puts back what Honda wants in itts engines, but allows you to do the best thing, which is drain at 1k miles, add regular mineral oil, and a bottle of my additive.
The additive is Valvoline MaxLife Engine Protector (MLEP). I got it at Pep Boys.
I did this on my S2000, and will do it on the TL. Many S2000 owners followed my rpcoedure and have posted outstanding wear rates in their used-oil analyses. So it works.
Why change the oil early? There can be dirt left from the sand casting, mfg dirt, and silicone from all the seals. All sorts of garbage. I change all the fluids early on, especially the high wear areas, like trannies, and where applicable, the differentials.
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Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
I'm new to this forum so this is my first read of this info.. thanks a bunch. I'll take you suggestions.
OK, back on topic - if you are keeping records of your own maintenance, follow what the MiD tells you, or as you recall what it told you, if you get my drift. While I would never recommend something I thought was bad for anyone's car, neither would I recommend that yopu do something that would give a corporate dimbulb an opportunity to save a buck by denying fair coverage for your brakes because you did not follow "the oil break-in procedure". Get my drift, son?
Thread Starter
Registered Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,342
Likes: 163
From: Suburb of Manassas, VA
To Road Rage;
Yep, I get your drift. Probably don't know anyone, save for maybe one of my cousins, who would have a pail of manual tranny gear oil in their garage.
Actually, I'm maybe 6 miles from Manassas.. I just use that location as a reference point because most people have probably heard of it.. history and such, you know.
I have always done oil changes soon than the manufacturer recommended, but I certainly realize that "the times, they are a-changing". But I just find it hard to break this habit, I suppose.. old habits do break hard. I keep a record book in my glove box of all of the things I have done to the vehicle, mostly for my own use.
What I generally like to do is use dyno juice for the first 4,000 to 8,000 miles and then switch to synthetic.
Oh, you asked me to cite an example of dyes in gasoline in another posting. This is years ago and may have changed completely, but I used to have a 1977 Toyota Celica GT Liftback in which I burned Shell gasoline. After perhaps 40,000 miles, I noticed a kind of tacky, dusty or powdery substance, orange/gold in color which had collected around the offices of the two venturi clusters in the carburetor. This is the dye to which I was referring. Now I suspect (hope), that this "material" would not show up in modern fuels dues to the almost exclusive use of fuel injection with gasoline engines. Comments are certainly welcome.
Yep, I get your drift. Probably don't know anyone, save for maybe one of my cousins, who would have a pail of manual tranny gear oil in their garage.
Actually, I'm maybe 6 miles from Manassas.. I just use that location as a reference point because most people have probably heard of it.. history and such, you know.
I have always done oil changes soon than the manufacturer recommended, but I certainly realize that "the times, they are a-changing". But I just find it hard to break this habit, I suppose.. old habits do break hard. I keep a record book in my glove box of all of the things I have done to the vehicle, mostly for my own use.
What I generally like to do is use dyno juice for the first 4,000 to 8,000 miles and then switch to synthetic.
Oh, you asked me to cite an example of dyes in gasoline in another posting. This is years ago and may have changed completely, but I used to have a 1977 Toyota Celica GT Liftback in which I burned Shell gasoline. After perhaps 40,000 miles, I noticed a kind of tacky, dusty or powdery substance, orange/gold in color which had collected around the offices of the two venturi clusters in the carburetor. This is the dye to which I was referring. Now I suspect (hope), that this "material" would not show up in modern fuels dues to the almost exclusive use of fuel injection with gasoline engines. Comments are certainly welcome.
RR adn SB,
So are you guys saying if I want to change the oil sooner than the MID says, I need to do it myself, or find a neighborhood garage to do it, because Acura may say "hey, you changed the oil too soon. your engine is busted, and it's not our fault"?
All the Acura dealers are linked, right? I mean, if I go get an oil change at Los Gatos Acura, and go to Stevens Creek for another when the MID says so, they will know I did it already, right?
go blue!!
So are you guys saying if I want to change the oil sooner than the MID says, I need to do it myself, or find a neighborhood garage to do it, because Acura may say "hey, you changed the oil too soon. your engine is busted, and it's not our fault"?
All the Acura dealers are linked, right? I mean, if I go get an oil change at Los Gatos Acura, and go to Stevens Creek for another when the MID says so, they will know I did it already, right?
go blue!!
Originally Posted by Road Rage
This is probably the 5th time I have posted this.
We did an analysis of the factory fill, and found the chemistry it is high in, principally moly disulphide. I have posted link to the analyses in this Forum in The RR Journals
So I found an aftermarket additive that puts back what Honda wants in itts engines, but allows you to do the best thing, which is drain at 1k miles, add regular mineral oil, and a bottle of my additive.
The additive is Valvoline MaxLife Engine Protector (MLEP). I got it at Pep Boys.
I did this on my S2000, and will do it on the TL. Many S2000 owners followed my rpcoedure and have posted outstanding wear rates in their used-oil analyses. So it works.
Why change the oil early? There can be dirt left from the sand casting, mfg dirt, and silicone from all the seals. All sorts of garbage. I change all the fluids early on, especially the high wear areas, like trannies, and where applicable, the differentials.
We did an analysis of the factory fill, and found the chemistry it is high in, principally moly disulphide. I have posted link to the analyses in this Forum in The RR Journals
So I found an aftermarket additive that puts back what Honda wants in itts engines, but allows you to do the best thing, which is drain at 1k miles, add regular mineral oil, and a bottle of my additive.
The additive is Valvoline MaxLife Engine Protector (MLEP). I got it at Pep Boys.
I did this on my S2000, and will do it on the TL. Many S2000 owners followed my rpcoedure and have posted outstanding wear rates in their used-oil analyses. So it works.
Why change the oil early? There can be dirt left from the sand casting, mfg dirt, and silicone from all the seals. All sorts of garbage. I change all the fluids early on, especially the high wear areas, like trannies, and where applicable, the differentials.
"Engines with over 75,000 miles perform differently than newer ones. As a vehicle ages, piston ring and cylinder wear can lead to loss of compression resulting in lost horsepower. MaxLife Engine Protector contains added ingredients that help reclaim lost compression and horsepower while protecting vital engine components against wear."
early oil/filter changes are exactly for what you say, to remove the cut-in and left-behind crud from milling and casting processes.
i switched right to Mobil-1 at 600 miles.
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