Hi all,
I just picked up my TL this week, and have been driving it everywhere! Needless to say, it's time for a wash. When the dealerships clean (or as they say, "detail") your car, I'm pretty sure they are not doing a "real" detailing, right? So, was wondering, how should I do the first cleaning of my car? I have read the Detailing forums, and know the different levels of cleaning (from the weekly maintenance cleaning/waxing, to the full on start with Dawn and clay bar cleaning), but, I don't know how I should start. Should I take off all the wax (i.e. Dawn it), or just do a "maintenance" cleaning, and then Dawn it in a month/few months?

What have you guys done as your first TL wash?

 

Since the car (and the paint) is brand new, you really don't need to do much. You can use Dawn if you want, then apply polish, wax, etc. In the fall, try using clay bar first to remove paint contaminants and then polish/wax. If you're using Zaino for the first time, definately use Dawn first.

 

Oh ok... So, since it's new, prob. just do the maintenance cleaning/waxing, and then do a "full detail" in the fall or so...

just a follow up... how often do you take care of/treat/clean your leather seats? I wipe down the interior as I see fit, but, not sure how often I should clean the seats.

Thanks!

 

When I got my car last month, I asked the dealer NOT to detail it. I gave him a lamb's wool mit and said he could hand wash it ONLY after I checked it with the plastic still on. For some reason, it is very hard for them to grasp this concept. I rejected my first car because they did not comply with my instructions. I waited two weeks more for a second car.

I then spent 10 hours the next day detailing my own car. I did a Dawn wash, a clay bar (because I could feel rail dust and overspray on the paint), a Zaino wash, 2 coats of Zaino Z2 with Z6 in between.

My car has NO swirl marks. It's black and has a mirror like finish (see pics below).

I wash it as needed with Zaino or Meguire's Car Wash and dry with a 100% white terrycloth towel made in USA or microfiber. I use Z6 whenever I want to tune up the high gloss and give it the WOW! factor.

I have a Swiffer disposable duster that I use in the mornings in the garage because it picks up dust just sitting there.

XP

 

Can you expand on the idea of using lambswool mit vs sponge? I'm curious to see what you mean with the difference between your method vs the dealerships and how to spot if they did not listen to you. tia.

 

never ever use a sponge! the dirt that comes off a sponge will get into the pores and most of the time the suface. when you glide that over the surface of you car you will get swirl marks or worse even a scratch. a wool mitt has a lot of hairs and dirt till go in between the hairs and get stuck inside deep in the hair where it will not likely cause any swirl marks or scratches. always rinse the mitt constantly to get the dirt off. i recommend using claybar if you are apply wax to the car. it will remove the contaminants that you cannot see. believe me the clay picks up alot of dirt even after you wash the car.

 

The previous poster said what I would about a sponge. I use a sponge on my Jeep Wrangler; not on my TL. In fact, I have two lamb's wool wash mits for the TL: a top and a 10 inch.

I start at the top, the roof and work around and down. There is more dirt on the bottom of the car than the top. If you started at the bottom, you would track that dirt (and tiny hard pointy things) all over the car.

I do the roof, then rinse it off. The hood and trunk, then rinse. The windows and doors but only as far as 10" up from the rocker panels. Rinse. Then, I get the other mit, the "ten inch" mit, and do the lower part and the bumpers. Rinse. I don't do this in the sun. And I dry it with an artificial chamois. If I'm not going to do anything else (wax or Quick Detail), I will use a terry cloth towel for final dry and buff to get all the water spots off. Sometimes I use a microfiber towel.

I do use the sponge on the wheels. I also have a couple of pointy brushes to get into the lug nut holes and small spaces on the wheels. I wax the wheels regularly so tar and brake dust don't stick as much.

How can I tell the dealer didn't listen? There was marring (a patch of fine scratches) on the hood. And, it was obviously prepped for delivery in a normal manner. That is: auto car wash with plastic protectors still on it to cool the plastic and adhesive- makes it easier to remove than when it has been sitting in the sun (they say). Wash with a bucket and long-handled brush in the sun. Acid bath to get the rail dust off. Clay bar if needed. Bulk polymer sealant from a gallon can "no name".

The "acid bath" can just be vinegar and water. It helps get some contaminates off. They use a commercial product that they said was expensive. A "solvent".

All cars have rail dust. It basically rust (iron oxide). It is rust colored and very fine. You can run your finger on the surface and feel it and it will come off on your finger as a reddish-brown muddy substance. It is metal particles (microscopic) and sticks into the paint surface. Clay bar does a good job of getting it. All cars have overspray also. You can't see it but you can feel it.

I just detailed my 1995 BMW which had been repainted by BMW. I clay barred the windows and was awe-struck at the crap that came off that I didn't even know was there for two years. I didn't notice the windows were particularly bad. They are tinted.

Well, I sure can tell now. They are really clean! I would rub the clay bar across the window and then look at it. It was loaded with paint/dirt.

If you want to check your paint surface even on a new car, put your hand in a baggy and then drag your finger tips lightly over the surface. If its clean, your finger will glide smoothly. If you feel bumps and, like sandpaper, it is poluted with contaminates and needs a cleaning. Cleaning is always the first step in getting you paint finish in a glossy, protected state. Even a new car.

You can also tell if the dealer detailed the car if it's a dark color like black or red, green, etc- when you look at it in the direct bright sun and there are circular fine scratches all over it (swirls/spider webs).

I also only wash and wax my car in one direction. On the hood, roof, and trunk, I use front to back strokes. On the doors, up and down. You will get scratches no matter what you do. If they are in one direction, you have to stand at a particular angle to see them. If they are circular, you see them no matter where you are because they are 360 degrees.

I'm probably telling you way more than you ever wanted to know. This will probably get moved to detailing because we're getting pretty technical.

XP

 

Wow, that was an amazing post. Thank you very much for the information!

 

nice post xpditor42 you just said everything that i normally do to keep the car clean. no matter what you do the reality is that you will get some scratches. but keeping them to a minimum is all that you can hope to do.