Deal or no Deal
Deal or no Deal
Fellas! Eclipse23 here, old time ACL mod from back in the day 
$34,405 2007 Acura TL w/ Navi
$3k Down, $500 a month.
Deal in writing, comments?
Good deal? Bad deal? On crack? I suck? Fuck you Ernie go back to the CL boards?

$34,405 2007 Acura TL w/ Navi
$3k Down, $500 a month.
Deal in writing, comments?
Good deal? Bad deal? On crack? I suck? Fuck you Ernie go back to the CL boards?
Originally Posted by eclipse23
Fellas! Eclipse23 here, old time ACL mod from back in the day 
$34,405 2007 Acura TL w/ Navi
$3k Down, $500 a month.
Deal in writing, comments?
Good deal? Bad deal? On crack? I suck? Fuck you Ernie go back to the CL boards?


$34,405 2007 Acura TL w/ Navi
$3k Down, $500 a month.
Deal in writing, comments?
Good deal? Bad deal? On crack? I suck? Fuck you Ernie go back to the CL boards?

Trending Topics
what's the residual value and what is the money factor used in calculating that payment?.....how long is the lease term? Invoice is, I believe, 33,623.29 so there maybe more room to go......Have you tried another dealer.... tell them what the offer is and see if they can beat it or just call that same dealer and tell them you got a capitalized cost of $200 dollars less from another dealer will they match! either way don't just go to one dealer. If that doesn't work you still got that first quote. Then again you might already have a great offer on that top price...I bought mine 2004 so I really don't know the demand on the market right now....Good luck!! I'm sure you'll love the car no matter what the cost!!
Originally Posted by Sabo
what's the residual value and what is the money factor used in calculating that payment?.....how long is the lease term? Invoice is, I believe, 33,623.29 so there maybe more room to go...
Originally Posted by Will Y.
My lease on a '05 TL w/Nav was $3K down(about $2K was for cap reduction of a 19K residual, I think), $410 month (w/o tax) for 42 months, so offer to OP eclipse23 seems high unless it's a TL-S rather than a TL. 

I need to see what the cap cost is on the car this is why I hate leasing I always seem to fuck up the numbers somehow. :sigh:
I have 2 issues with this deal. First, you should be able to get the cap cost down to 34K. Wait until the end of the month, then make the deal.
Second, why put money down on a lease? If your car is stolen or totaled, you lose that down payment. Why part with 3K just to lower your payment. Make the higher payment and keep your cash. I have leased 3 cars over the last 4 years, and the only money I will put up front is the first months payment. Roll everything else into the payment. If the payment goes up significantly more than the 3K spread out over the term, than the money factor is too high and you should not do the deal in the first place.
The money factor is the biggest part of the puzzle. It will make or break a deal.
Let me give you an example: Last lease was a Lexus Rx330 2006. MSRP 44,500. Cap cost 42,000. Residual 24,000 (may have been 23K). Money factor: 0.00100. 36 months no money down (15K miles per year), they paid my first payment, I have 35 payments of $597 per month tax included. This deal worked because the money factor was great.
I am now looking at a 2007 IS350: MSRP 42K. Cap cost 39,900. residual 57% for 36 month lease. Money factor 0.00300. Payment is 680 plus tax with $1200 up front. This is a bad deal, so I am no longer looking at the IS350 (they also have no deals on purchase financing)
Lesson: Money factor is king!! Cap cost and residual are also important
Second, why put money down on a lease? If your car is stolen or totaled, you lose that down payment. Why part with 3K just to lower your payment. Make the higher payment and keep your cash. I have leased 3 cars over the last 4 years, and the only money I will put up front is the first months payment. Roll everything else into the payment. If the payment goes up significantly more than the 3K spread out over the term, than the money factor is too high and you should not do the deal in the first place.
The money factor is the biggest part of the puzzle. It will make or break a deal.
Let me give you an example: Last lease was a Lexus Rx330 2006. MSRP 44,500. Cap cost 42,000. Residual 24,000 (may have been 23K). Money factor: 0.00100. 36 months no money down (15K miles per year), they paid my first payment, I have 35 payments of $597 per month tax included. This deal worked because the money factor was great.
I am now looking at a 2007 IS350: MSRP 42K. Cap cost 39,900. residual 57% for 36 month lease. Money factor 0.00300. Payment is 680 plus tax with $1200 up front. This is a bad deal, so I am no longer looking at the IS350 (they also have no deals on purchase financing)
Lesson: Money factor is king!! Cap cost and residual are also important
Originally Posted by saw1
I have 2 issues with this deal. First, you should be able to get the cap cost down to 34K. Wait until the end of the month, then make the deal.
Second, why put money down on a lease? If your car is stolen or totaled, you lose that down payment. Why part with 3K just to lower your payment. Make the higher payment and keep your cash. I have leased 3 cars over the last 4 years, and the only money I will put up front is the first months payment. Roll everything else into the payment. If the payment goes up significantly more than the 3K spread out over the term, than the money factor is too high and you should not do the deal in the first place.
The money factor is the biggest part of the puzzle. It will make or break a deal.
Let me give you an example: Last lease was a Lexus Rx330 2006. MSRP 44,500. Cap cost 42,000. Residual 24,000 (may have been 23K). Money factor: 0.00100. 36 months no money down (15K miles per year), they paid my first payment, I have 35 payments of $597 per month tax included. This deal worked because the money factor was great.
I am now looking at a 2007 IS350: MSRP 42K. Cap cost 39,900. residual 57% for 36 month lease. Money factor 0.00300. Payment is 680 plus tax with $1200 up front. This is a bad deal, so I am no longer looking at the IS350 (they also have no deals on purchase financing)
Lesson: Money factor is king!! Cap cost and residual are also important
Second, why put money down on a lease? If your car is stolen or totaled, you lose that down payment. Why part with 3K just to lower your payment. Make the higher payment and keep your cash. I have leased 3 cars over the last 4 years, and the only money I will put up front is the first months payment. Roll everything else into the payment. If the payment goes up significantly more than the 3K spread out over the term, than the money factor is too high and you should not do the deal in the first place.
The money factor is the biggest part of the puzzle. It will make or break a deal.
Let me give you an example: Last lease was a Lexus Rx330 2006. MSRP 44,500. Cap cost 42,000. Residual 24,000 (may have been 23K). Money factor: 0.00100. 36 months no money down (15K miles per year), they paid my first payment, I have 35 payments of $597 per month tax included. This deal worked because the money factor was great.
I am now looking at a 2007 IS350: MSRP 42K. Cap cost 39,900. residual 57% for 36 month lease. Money factor 0.00300. Payment is 680 plus tax with $1200 up front. This is a bad deal, so I am no longer looking at the IS350 (they also have no deals on purchase financing)
Lesson: Money factor is king!! Cap cost and residual are also important
Why not buy it? Leasing is like renting except you have to take care of all the maint. and you usually end up losing on the deal. My TL was 37k with all aftermarket and extened warranty and I put zero down and had a payment for 6 years 600 a month. At least if you own it when you sell it you will usually get some of your money back or at least break even.
Originally Posted by eclipse23
Wow thanks.
I need to see what the cap cost is on the car this is why I hate leasing I always seem to fuck up the numbers somehow. :sigh:
I need to see what the cap cost is on the car this is why I hate leasing I always seem to fuck up the numbers somehow. :sigh:
Originally Posted by JDM5lugHatch
Why not buy it? Leasing is like renting except you have to take care of all the maint. and you usually end up losing on the deal. My TL was 37k with all aftermarket and extened warranty and I put zero down and had a payment for 6 years 600 a month. At least if you own it when you sell it you will usually get some of your money back or at least break even.
There are several reasons to lease.
1) You're doing it through a business and its advantageous for tax reasons.
2) You buy a new car every 2-3 years anyways and dont like to modify your cars. And tend to trade in at dealers rather than doing private sales.
3) You live in a state that only taxes the "used" portion of the car.
buying is usually better, and only gets to be a better option the longer you plan on holding onto the car. I think one of the big things that get people when leasing is all the fees, deposits, and different numbers the dealer can mess around with to make a deal sound attractive while being a horrible deal in reality.
Originally Posted by geekybiker
There are several reasons to lease.
1) You're doing it through a business and its advantageous for tax reasons.
2) You buy a new car every 2-3 years anyways and dont like to modify your cars. And tend to trade in at dealers rather than doing private sales.
3) You live in a state that only taxes the "used" portion of the car.
buying is usually better, and only gets to be a better option the longer you plan on holding onto the car. I think one of the big things that get people when leasing is all the fees, deposits, and different numbers the dealer can mess around with to make a deal sound attractive while being a horrible deal in reality.
1) You're doing it through a business and its advantageous for tax reasons.
2) You buy a new car every 2-3 years anyways and dont like to modify your cars. And tend to trade in at dealers rather than doing private sales.
3) You live in a state that only taxes the "used" portion of the car.
buying is usually better, and only gets to be a better option the longer you plan on holding onto the car. I think one of the big things that get people when leasing is all the fees, deposits, and different numbers the dealer can mess around with to make a deal sound attractive while being a horrible deal in reality.
I understand reasons to leasing. I have a few clients that lease their cars but they get a company car allowance and they rack up the miles on them since they do property management. It only make sense to do it for business as most large businesses do so. Yet for a personal vehicle I wouldn't ever consider it.
Especially not in VA because you have to pay personal property tax every year regardless.
Originally Posted by eclipse23
Fellas! Eclipse23 here, old time ACL mod from back in the day 
$34,405 2007 Acura TL w/ Navi
$3k Down, $500 a month.
Deal in writing, comments?
Good deal? Bad deal? On crack? I suck? Fuck you Ernie go back to the CL boards?


$34,405 2007 Acura TL w/ Navi
$3k Down, $500 a month.
Deal in writing, comments?
Good deal? Bad deal? On crack? I suck? Fuck you Ernie go back to the CL boards?

And, is that AHFC? Some banks offer much MUCH better deals than AHFC does.
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