TLVR

Did a search on it but had no luck. What is the best way to prolong the life of the CV boots? On my previous cars the CV axle boots cracked after 2 years and were expensive to replace-$300 per axle! And what a greasy mess to clean up afterwards. Is the Acura CV boot material a good compound rubber and fairly durable? What can we expect in terms of repair/replacement cost?? Is the steering rack also covered with a rubber boot/bellow? Thanks for your input. Regards.

leeherman

Two years??

Are you off-roading with your cars?



My eleven year old, 103K mile '93 Camry had the original joints and boots.

Either you abused your car or it really was a poorly designed boot. What kind of vehicles had this problem?

TLover

I've never had a problem with a CV in any of my cars, including a 1990 CRX that had 120,000 miles on it.

fla-tls

I tried using protectant - like Finish 2001 on the boots of my last car. It never had a cracked boot (the car's at 130k now), but there's no way to tell if the protectant actually helped.

It couldn't hurt.

Stewie

I had to replace the boots on a 93 Integra GR-S after about 130k miles but it cost less than $200.

I have 147k on my 98 CL and still have the original boots and joint.

I wouldn't sweat it but I have heard they'll last longer if you put Armor-All on them regularly.

Road Rage

Voila!
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php...pic=179385&hl=

fla-tls

RR - can you use a protectant like Finish 2001 (don't like Armor All - experience shows it shrinks plastic/rubber) on the boots instead of 3M?

MR1

My link to the site RR is directing us to dosen't work.

I have a theory that is non-scientific. It seems that the more 'full lock' turns one makes, the shorter the life of the CV boots. I have to make lots of u-turns so mine don't seem to last any more than about 100K. Does that make sense?

Road Rage

You are confused, and mis-read what i wrote, bud. I am talking about silicone spray - not ArmorAll, 2001 (same thing), or any other silicone oil material. They are much too greasy for this use. They cause premature damage of tire sidewalls, as they leech out the protective waxes the tire mfrs use. They also can seal in dirt and contaminates. They can accelrate dry rot.

You can use 303 Protectant, but it is harder to work into the nooks and crannies.

The important takeaway is the same as leather:
before you can condition the CV boots, the rubber bushings in the anti-roll bar, the tie-rod end boots, etc, they must first be CLEANED! Likewise, leather must be cleaned before it is conditioned, or you are locking in the body salts that can damage the leather when sealed in by the oily conditioners.

MR1 - something is wrong with your browser if you cannot access the s2ki site. Many others here can.

I will copy it for you, as a gesture of human kindness.

Road Rage

Remember when "lube jobs" always included a grease gun for the ball joints (upper and lower). control arms, tie rod ends, etc?

Some of the junior members may not remember, as they have never owned a car that required a chassis lube. But is that really true?

Of course, it is a trick question. But I do a regular once a year chassis lube which consists of cleaning and lubing all the rubber boots in the front and rear suspension. These things are in hostile environments, and while the rubber used is high quality, once it is damaged, dirt and water can enter, and allow the pieces to grind themselves beyond salvage. I have seen Honda dealers charge $50 for this, but they of course do not clean the parts first - which is not good.

Some guys just shoot silicone spray all over - but this is actually worse than doing nothing. Dirt will be trapped under the silicone, which also then makes a gooey mess that picks up more garbage.

************************************************** ************
Here is what I do.

Parts needed: Floor jack, jack stands, water hose, pail, car wash concentrate, a good brush, towels, silicone spray, degreaser (non-solvent brake cleaner is good)

I jack up the rear first and use the jack stands- this allows you to do the requisite cleaning, but if you did the front first and your work area slopes down front to back, you will then be working on the rear in a lot of water.

Using a quality car wash with perhaps double the amount of detergent in warm water, I carefully wash the rubber boots with the same brush I use to clean the wheels and tires - one of those "split end" poly brushes. I clean the boots and any area that has a rubber protective cover, such as on the rear half-shafts, steering, etc.

Rinse completely.

Let the rubber completely dry - completely. It should not look greasy, but have a smooth, matte color with no major bumps from tar or chewing gum etc.

When they are completely dry, the "chassis lube" begins.

You want to use a quality silicone spray. But isn't silicone, silicone, you ask? Good question. The answer is no. Silicone sprays vary quite a bit in the amount of true silicone in them, although they all use another liquid as the "carrier" for the aerosol. Cheap ones are cheap because the carriers are cheap and the silicone is less cheap, and the average buyer will not know he is getting less true material for the price.

I have had good results using 3M Silicone Spray - you may have to hunt for it, but I have found it in AutoZone, and a web search will surely reveal other sources. Like practically anything 3M makes, it is first-class in quality, and the amount of silicone in it is relatively high.

Spray the rubber boots with a decent amount of the silicone, to ensure wet, but try to avoid so much that it drips. That is just wasteful. Make sure you get the top of the boots - any excess can be wiped away with a paper towel.

Be careful when spraying around the brakes - you do not want to contaminate the pad/rotor with excessive overspray - so, use a paper towel or an old shop rag to "mask" off any areas you do not want to spray.

Let the parts completely dry - if you do not let the carrier oil and solvent completely dry, you will pick up dirt.

Then do the front suspension area.

Ta-daaah - you are done!

Now, I just do this at once a year , and that may be excessive - depends on where you drive and how many miles. But just doing it as part of the annual "winter layaway" is simple to remember - add do remember to add this "chassis lube" to your service records. When a prospective buyer asks about it, your explanation will no doubt impress.

************************************************** ***********

Now, there will be some that will question the necessity: "I have never done this and blah blah blah". To them I say, fine, do what you want. But I will say that since a former mechanic suggested this procedure to me 20 years ago, I have never lost a boot to wear - not one. I have had slit from race debris a few times, but caught it at my post race "inspection". But never have had one wear out.

Ozone, road salts, dirt and debris, weak acids from sulfur mixed with water, etc. present hazards to these rubber parts, and it is a testimony to modern rubber technology that they do as well as they do. But a 30 minute job once a year can extend their life indefinitely.

MR1

Thanks RR! Of course it was my browser, it burbed.
When I came back on it worked fine. Good information.
What about my theory especially in light of the 3G TL's wide turning circle?

Type S Lady

Hey, that's good to know! I've got 145k on my 94 GSR and I'm still on the originals boots.

Stewie

Then you'll be happy to hear that's about all the only thing that went wrong with the car. The muffler finally crapped out at 160k though.

Type S Lady

CooL!

ensley696

THe only time i had trouble with CV BOOTS was on my 84 S-10 4X4, and that was because I went off road with it, *L*. My 2k Chevy Malibu has 108K and the original boots.

cpurick

You will find your CV boots will last much longer if you don't turn the steering wheel.

Of course, your front bumper won't last as long, so there is a bit of a tradeoff...

Road Rage

The accordion is made of first-rate synthetic rubber, and is meant to take many cycles of full extension and retraction - I would be more worried about how much Vioxx I had taken or whether lightning would hit my gutters than fret over the boots - honestly.

I have never had a boot go on any of the cars I maintained, just as others have mentioned. Check them at every oil change, or if you run over something that could have cut the boot, check very shortly afterward.

ITL

Doesn't seem like many others are having CV boot issues...mine keep cracking and spilling grease everywhere. Tonight is the third time in 50k miles. I had the problem on stock springs, Comptech springs, and TEIN SS coilovers. The very last edge in the "accordion" of the boot is only a few millimeters away from the front leg of the damper fork and appears that it might be rubbing, because the crack in the boot is on the outside edge.

johnny--2k

mine are being replaced as we speak. 05 6MT 32K miles, been doing it for about 7K miles now.

The Dougler

iTrader: (1)

how did you wear out your CV boots in 32k miles? you driving down streets of knivevs or something? My 95 accord with 450,000km only had them replaced once around 300k. you must be doing something extreme with your vehicle or ran over something that split one. Acura better be covering that under warranty for you.

ITL

as it turns out...my damper forks were on backwards in the front. Guess it's not so much fun after all to drink beer and work on the car. Got it all straightened out, now.

johnny--2k

could not tell you. The problem did not start until the weather turned cold in october, left school one night and making a right turn, and the occasional left, I would hear this pop/click/metal stressing sound, sounded rotational, speed dependent. After about 10 minutes of driving, went away.

THis is the 5th time it's been in for the same symptom, checked all brake components, suspension components, and last time, they were going to replace the axles, and noticed the axle nuts were loose, so they tightened them and crossed their fingers, well, no dice. Went in again, drive with a tech again (3rd one) and he said, really sounds like a bad outer CV. Cant believe they never picked this up before. Replaced today, letting the car sit overnight at the dealership and going in the morning to drive with a tech to verify the problem is gone.