Cracked my Oil pan on the highway
07-31-2006, 06:07 AM
#1
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Cracked my Oil pan on the highway
I cant believe this $HIT!!!
I was riding behind a huge 18 wheeler truck and something very quickly fell off the truck and I couldnt avoid it as it quickly swept under my car, the noise was HORRIBLE, I knew something was wrong right away. I pulled over ASAP and got down to pull out the object, it was a huge metal beam type object, shaped like a dog bone, about a foot and a half long and 7 inches wide. Oil was spilling and spilling fast, I ran back inside my car and shut it off the car and called a tow truck.
Towed it to a gas station and once they lifted the car you can see a puncture about an inch long in the oil pan,cut right through. I was hoping and praying that i shut off the car in time before any damage could of been done to the engine.
mechanic said I might have damaged the engine. He couldnt get the new oil pan right away so he put a peice of aluminum on the cut and used apoxy I think its called ? around it. waited about 5 hours and than he poured in fresh oil and said okay lets see if you damaged the engine... He started the car and it sounded normal,very quiet. He said everything is fine but you will need a new pan.
They are charging me 475$ for the new pan with labor. I called up Acura and they told me 650$. What should I do ?? I know the mechanic at the local Amaco gas station and he's good. Is it dangerous to drive a few days with the temp seald pan ?
I was riding behind a huge 18 wheeler truck and something very quickly fell off the truck and I couldnt avoid it as it quickly swept under my car, the noise was HORRIBLE, I knew something was wrong right away. I pulled over ASAP and got down to pull out the object, it was a huge metal beam type object, shaped like a dog bone, about a foot and a half long and 7 inches wide. Oil was spilling and spilling fast, I ran back inside my car and shut it off the car and called a tow truck.
Towed it to a gas station and once they lifted the car you can see a puncture about an inch long in the oil pan,cut right through. I was hoping and praying that i shut off the car in time before any damage could of been done to the engine.
mechanic said I might have damaged the engine. He couldnt get the new oil pan right away so he put a peice of aluminum on the cut and used apoxy I think its called ? around it. waited about 5 hours and than he poured in fresh oil and said okay lets see if you damaged the engine... He started the car and it sounded normal,very quiet. He said everything is fine but you will need a new pan.
They are charging me 475$ for the new pan with labor. I called up Acura and they told me 650$. What should I do ?? I know the mechanic at the local Amaco gas station and he's good. Is it dangerous to drive a few days with the temp seald pan ?
07-31-2006, 07:35 AM
#2
I would not drive the car until it is repaired. What happens if the epoxy fails when the engine and oil get hot? The idiot light won't give you enough warning and then you would seriously damage your engine. Why take the chance?
07-31-2006, 08:23 AM
#3
Originally Posted by ACKTL04
I cant believe this $HIT!!!
I was riding behind a huge 18 wheeler truck and something very quickly fell off the truck and I couldnt avoid it as it quickly swept under my car, the noise was HORRIBLE, I knew something was wrong right away. I pulled over ASAP and got down to pull out the object, it was a huge metal beam type object, shaped like a dog bone, about a foot and a half long and 7 inches wide. Oil was spilling and spilling fast, I ran back inside my car and shut it off the car and called a tow truck.
Towed it to a gas station and once they lifted the car you can see a puncture about an inch long in the oil pan,cut right through. I was hoping and praying that i shut off the car in time before any damage could of been done to the engine.
mechanic said I might have damaged the engine. He couldnt get the new oil pan right away so he put a peice of aluminum on the cut and used apoxy I think its called ? around it. waited about 5 hours and than he poured in fresh oil and said okay lets see if you damaged the engine... He started the car and it sounded normal,very quiet. He said everything is fine but you will need a new pan.
They are charging me 475$ for the new pan with labor. I called up Acura and they told me 650$. What should I do ?? I know the mechanic at the local Amaco gas station and he's good. Is it dangerous to drive a few days with the temp seald pan ?
I was riding behind a huge 18 wheeler truck and something very quickly fell off the truck and I couldnt avoid it as it quickly swept under my car, the noise was HORRIBLE, I knew something was wrong right away. I pulled over ASAP and got down to pull out the object, it was a huge metal beam type object, shaped like a dog bone, about a foot and a half long and 7 inches wide. Oil was spilling and spilling fast, I ran back inside my car and shut it off the car and called a tow truck.
Towed it to a gas station and once they lifted the car you can see a puncture about an inch long in the oil pan,cut right through. I was hoping and praying that i shut off the car in time before any damage could of been done to the engine.
mechanic said I might have damaged the engine. He couldnt get the new oil pan right away so he put a peice of aluminum on the cut and used apoxy I think its called ? around it. waited about 5 hours and than he poured in fresh oil and said okay lets see if you damaged the engine... He started the car and it sounded normal,very quiet. He said everything is fine but you will need a new pan.
They are charging me 475$ for the new pan with labor. I called up Acura and they told me 650$. What should I do ?? I know the mechanic at the local Amaco gas station and he's good. Is it dangerous to drive a few days with the temp seald pan ?
07-31-2006, 08:55 AM
#5
TLove
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can't you still claim it with your insurance? that is if ur deductable is less then $600.
and if i were you i would definilty have acura take a look at the undercarriage of the car, b/c if that "metal dog bone" ripped thru your oil pan, i wouldnt be surprised if it damaged anything else. ie. exhaust
a normal mechanic may overlook damage to other parts of the car, however "ideally" an acura mech should know how the bottom of a TL looks w/his eyes closed.
and if i were you i would definilty have acura take a look at the undercarriage of the car, b/c if that "metal dog bone" ripped thru your oil pan, i wouldnt be surprised if it damaged anything else. ie. exhaust
a normal mechanic may overlook damage to other parts of the car, however "ideally" an acura mech should know how the bottom of a TL looks w/his eyes closed.
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07-31-2006, 11:37 AM
#9
acura-cl.com OG
whats cheaper, saving a couple hunderd now and being uneasy about the repair, and/or possibly creating worse engine problems. OR spending the money, having it done right and not having to worry about it.
just my opinion and way of thinking.
just my opinion and way of thinking.
07-31-2006, 11:39 AM
#10
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Does not help you now, but the trucking company would have paid for all of that. Happens all the time. The trucking company is responsible for securing the load, etc. Bites the big one if you have to pony up your own insurance money for this one 
07-31-2006, 11:51 AM
#11
WDP Director of R & D
I'd be hesitant to drive the vehicle as well. Epoxy is great stuff if applied to perfectly clean and prepped surfaces. It could hold forever or decide to just fall off after getting hot etc.. Be careful there.
As for the choice of mechanic... If you like your local guy and you do trust his work/abilities, use him and save the money. I haven't looked at the difficulty of changing a 3G TL oil pan but most are straight forward procedures. Definitely ensure he also has a warranty/customer policy per se if the thing decides to leak in the first year.
Many people just asume that they get the best mechanic for the job when they take their car to the applicable dealership. No matter what your always gambling 50/50.. Sure they may have worked on that car before but they still could be a lousy mechanic. I would much rather have a mechanic that was methodical and particular about his work than someone who's uniform has an Acura badge and does the job quickly to ensure commission.
Bottom line, be sceptical of the epoxy/temp fix and drive your car accordingly. Use the mechanic that you trust or have knowledge of his work.
Good luck.
Smitty
As for the choice of mechanic... If you like your local guy and you do trust his work/abilities, use him and save the money. I haven't looked at the difficulty of changing a 3G TL oil pan but most are straight forward procedures. Definitely ensure he also has a warranty/customer policy per se if the thing decides to leak in the first year.
Many people just asume that they get the best mechanic for the job when they take their car to the applicable dealership. No matter what your always gambling 50/50.. Sure they may have worked on that car before but they still could be a lousy mechanic. I would much rather have a mechanic that was methodical and particular about his work than someone who's uniform has an Acura badge and does the job quickly to ensure commission.
Bottom line, be sceptical of the epoxy/temp fix and drive your car accordingly. Use the mechanic that you trust or have knowledge of his work.
Good luck.
Smitty
07-31-2006, 12:05 PM
#12
Unless you drove it for more then 5 minutes will the low oil warning light ON, I would not worry.
Guess what happens when you start you car that have been standing in Minus 40 deg. F ambiant temperature? It will take several minutes before the regular dino oil gets thin enough to circulate in the engine and lube the critical clearance parts (Crakshaft bearings, Connecting Rod Bearings, Camshaft Bearings).
As far as the temporary fix, if its is good epoxy and was properly applied, it should be OK for a few days but keep a eye on the oil light indicator!
As far as what the other have suggested, be sure you have the whole underbody inspected for other damages.
The same thing happened to me on my first car 30 years ago. I shaved off the transmission pan after a rock fell of a Dump truck. No damages to the transmission but the pan was less then half the lenght it was supposed to be.
This has teached me to follow other cars/trucks from a safe distance should anything happen.
Best of luck to you
frenchnew
Guess what happens when you start you car that have been standing in Minus 40 deg. F ambiant temperature? It will take several minutes before the regular dino oil gets thin enough to circulate in the engine and lube the critical clearance parts (Crakshaft bearings, Connecting Rod Bearings, Camshaft Bearings).
As far as the temporary fix, if its is good epoxy and was properly applied, it should be OK for a few days but keep a eye on the oil light indicator!
As far as what the other have suggested, be sure you have the whole underbody inspected for other damages.
The same thing happened to me on my first car 30 years ago. I shaved off the transmission pan after a rock fell of a Dump truck. No damages to the transmission but the pan was less then half the lenght it was supposed to be.
This has teached me to follow other cars/trucks from a safe distance should anything happen.
Best of luck to you
frenchnew
Originally Posted by ACKTL04
I cant believe this $HIT!!!
I was riding behind a huge 18 wheeler truck and something very quickly fell off the truck and I couldnt avoid it as it quickly swept under my car, the noise was HORRIBLE, I knew something was wrong right away. I pulled over ASAP and got down to pull out the object, it was a huge metal beam type object, shaped like a dog bone, about a foot and a half long and 7 inches wide. Oil was spilling and spilling fast, I ran back inside my car and shut it off the car and called a tow truck.
Towed it to a gas station and once they lifted the car you can see a puncture about an inch long in the oil pan,cut right through. I was hoping and praying that i shut off the car in time before any damage could of been done to the engine.
mechanic said I might have damaged the engine. He couldnt get the new oil pan right away so he put a peice of aluminum on the cut and used apoxy I think its called ? around it. waited about 5 hours and than he poured in fresh oil and said okay lets see if you damaged the engine... He started the car and it sounded normal,very quiet. He said everything is fine but you will need a new pan.
They are charging me 475$ for the new pan with labor. I called up Acura and they told me 650$. What should I do ?? I know the mechanic at the local Amaco gas station and he's good. Is it dangerous to drive a few days with the temp seald pan ?
I was riding behind a huge 18 wheeler truck and something very quickly fell off the truck and I couldnt avoid it as it quickly swept under my car, the noise was HORRIBLE, I knew something was wrong right away. I pulled over ASAP and got down to pull out the object, it was a huge metal beam type object, shaped like a dog bone, about a foot and a half long and 7 inches wide. Oil was spilling and spilling fast, I ran back inside my car and shut it off the car and called a tow truck.
Towed it to a gas station and once they lifted the car you can see a puncture about an inch long in the oil pan,cut right through. I was hoping and praying that i shut off the car in time before any damage could of been done to the engine.
mechanic said I might have damaged the engine. He couldnt get the new oil pan right away so he put a peice of aluminum on the cut and used apoxy I think its called ? around it. waited about 5 hours and than he poured in fresh oil and said okay lets see if you damaged the engine... He started the car and it sounded normal,very quiet. He said everything is fine but you will need a new pan.
They are charging me 475$ for the new pan with labor. I called up Acura and they told me 650$. What should I do ?? I know the mechanic at the local Amaco gas station and he's good. Is it dangerous to drive a few days with the temp seald pan ?
07-31-2006, 12:06 PM
#13
Note...do you think that Acura could void his warrantee theoretically if he brings it to them? They could say later if problems come up that the engine probs were due to lack of oil, ect at the time of that incident...and therefore effectively offset the liability to the insurance company at a later date if troubles were to occur? Just thinking aloud?
If he got a new oil pan put on somewhere else....and they did a clean job.....if troubles came up later....they would never be the wiser. And if they brought it up...I would say...I dont know what you are talking about....and then incinuate they sold you a fixed car, which may end the conversation.
If he got a new oil pan put on somewhere else....and they did a clean job.....if troubles came up later....they would never be the wiser. And if they brought it up...I would say...I dont know what you are talking about....and then incinuate they sold you a fixed car, which may end the conversation.
07-31-2006, 12:25 PM
#14
TLove
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Originally Posted by MichaelBenz
Note...do you think that Acura could void his warrantee theoretically if he brings it to them? They could say later if problems come up that the engine probs were due to lack of oil, ect at the time of that incident...and therefore effectively offset the liability to the insurance company at a later date if troubles were to occur? Just thinking aloud?
If he got a new oil pan put on somewhere else....and they did a clean job.....if troubles came up later....they would never be the wiser. And if they brought it up...I would say...I dont know what you are talking about....and then incinuate they sold you a fixed car, which may end the conversation.
If he got a new oil pan put on somewhere else....and they did a clean job.....if troubles came up later....they would never be the wiser. And if they brought it up...I would say...I dont know what you are talking about....and then incinuate they sold you a fixed car, which may end the conversation.
good point, this is a hard decision.
best of luck.
07-31-2006, 08:30 PM
#16
Drifting
Originally Posted by MichaelBenz
Note...do you think that Acura could void his warrantee theoretically if he brings it to them? They could say later if problems come up that the engine probs were due to lack of oil, ect at the time of that incident...and therefore effectively offset the liability to the insurance company at a later date if troubles were to occur? Just thinking aloud?
Besides, the car is equipped with an oil pressure switch and oil-level switch for a reason. If they both failed to notify you that you lost oil, then the real reason for the damage was not that you lost oil, but that the warning systems failed to notify you of said condition, because if it was working properly, you could've stopped the engine to avoid damage.
07-31-2006, 08:35 PM
#17
Team Owner
Originally Posted by frenchnew
Unless you drove it for more then 5 minutes will the low oil warning light ON, I would not worry.
Guess what happens when you start you car that have been standing in Minus 40 deg. F ambiant temperature? It will take several minutes before the regular dino oil gets thin enough to circulate in the engine and lube the critical clearance parts (Crakshaft bearings, Connecting Rod Bearings, Camshaft Bearings).
As far as the temporary fix, if its is good epoxy and was properly applied, it should be OK for a few days but keep a eye on the oil light indicator!
As far as what the other have suggested, be sure you have the whole underbody inspected for other damages.
The same thing happened to me on my first car 30 years ago. I shaved off the transmission pan after a rock fell of a Dump truck. No damages to the transmission but the pan was less then half the lenght it was supposed to be.
This has teached me to follow other cars/trucks from a safe distance should anything happen.
Best of luck to you
frenchnew
Guess what happens when you start you car that have been standing in Minus 40 deg. F ambiant temperature? It will take several minutes before the regular dino oil gets thin enough to circulate in the engine and lube the critical clearance parts (Crakshaft bearings, Connecting Rod Bearings, Camshaft Bearings).
As far as the temporary fix, if its is good epoxy and was properly applied, it should be OK for a few days but keep a eye on the oil light indicator!
As far as what the other have suggested, be sure you have the whole underbody inspected for other damages.
The same thing happened to me on my first car 30 years ago. I shaved off the transmission pan after a rock fell of a Dump truck. No damages to the transmission but the pan was less then half the lenght it was supposed to be.
This has teached me to follow other cars/trucks from a safe distance should anything happen.
Best of luck to you
frenchnew
I had sort of the same thing happen. A diesel kicked up 3 big rocks on the freeway. I watched their arch in slow motion. I was in bumper to bumper traffic and instead hitting the brakes and causing a wreck I took a rock to the hood. I have so much random stuff happening to my car I wait until every three incidents before I file a claim.
07-31-2006, 08:40 PM
#18
TLove
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
I have so much random stuff happening to my car I wait until every three incidents before I file a claim.
now i see the reasoning behind your username
07-31-2006, 09:37 PM
#19
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Drunkenmunky23
now i see the reasoning behind your username
07-31-2006, 10:02 PM
#20
Excuse the term but BULLSH*T!
I am talking about oil circulation when the stuff is as thick as cold molasse from a fridge.
Unitl the oil has a chance to thin out, there is no way that the critical clearance parts inside the engine will see any lubrication.
The oil pressure from the pump outlet will be maxed and so will the oil regulator valve fully open and the bypass valve in the oil filter.
I guess you are too young to remember cars from the early 70's when the oil pressureswitch used to be mounted on top of the engines as opposed to today, the oil pressure switch is located at the oil pump outlet.
It was common occurance on a very cold morning to have the oil warning light ON for up to five minutes before it would turn off because it would take that long for the oil to get thin enough to reach the top of the engine oil gallery.
The manufacurers back in the 1970 figured that it would save them from customers calls on cold morning if they relocated the oil pressure switch/sender at the out of the oil pump as opposed to the top oil gallery on the engine.
FYI, here are the specifications for the TL Engine;
Rocker Arm to Shaft Clearance; 0.0010" to 0.0026" Intake
0.0010" to 0.0030" Exhaust
Camshaft to Holder Oil Clearance : New 0.0020 to 0.0035"
Service Limit 0.006"
Crankshaft Main Bearing to Journal Oil Clearance: New 0.0008 to 0.0017"
Service Limit 0.0020"
Connecting Rod Bearing to Journal Oil Clearance: New 0.0008 to 0.0017"
Service Limit 0.0020"
We are talking about 0.8 thousanth of an inch here.
Ever tried to push thick molasse through a 0.0008" opening?
Hence the reason that until you engine oil reaches proper operating temperature, you should drive your car really easy as the engine critical components have only the oil film from the last time it was used to rely on.
If Engine would be easily damaged as you stated, there would not be enough days in a year to fix all the engines that would fail here on a cold Quebec winter morning.
I am talking about oil circulation when the stuff is as thick as cold molasse from a fridge.
Unitl the oil has a chance to thin out, there is no way that the critical clearance parts inside the engine will see any lubrication.
The oil pressure from the pump outlet will be maxed and so will the oil regulator valve fully open and the bypass valve in the oil filter.
I guess you are too young to remember cars from the early 70's when the oil pressureswitch used to be mounted on top of the engines as opposed to today, the oil pressure switch is located at the oil pump outlet.
It was common occurance on a very cold morning to have the oil warning light ON for up to five minutes before it would turn off because it would take that long for the oil to get thin enough to reach the top of the engine oil gallery.
The manufacurers back in the 1970 figured that it would save them from customers calls on cold morning if they relocated the oil pressure switch/sender at the out of the oil pump as opposed to the top oil gallery on the engine.
FYI, here are the specifications for the TL Engine;
Rocker Arm to Shaft Clearance; 0.0010" to 0.0026" Intake
0.0010" to 0.0030" Exhaust
Camshaft to Holder Oil Clearance : New 0.0020 to 0.0035"
Service Limit 0.006"
Crankshaft Main Bearing to Journal Oil Clearance: New 0.0008 to 0.0017"
Service Limit 0.0020"
Connecting Rod Bearing to Journal Oil Clearance: New 0.0008 to 0.0017"
Service Limit 0.0020"
We are talking about 0.8 thousanth of an inch here.
Ever tried to push thick molasse through a 0.0008" opening?
Hence the reason that until you engine oil reaches proper operating temperature, you should drive your car really easy as the engine critical components have only the oil film from the last time it was used to rely on.
If Engine would be easily damaged as you stated, there would not be enough days in a year to fix all the engines that would fail here on a cold Quebec winter morning.
Originally Posted by I hate cars
No. It takes a second or two to get full pressure even in extreme cold. Low oil is one thing. Loss of pressure is another. Being that he was sitting at idle and it sounds like oil was still draining out I would bet the motor is ok. If the car is driving and especially under heavy load it only takes seconds to cause damage. Don't drive it with a temp fix. Not worth the potential problems. It will fail eventually.
I had sort of the same thing happen. A diesel kicked up 3 big rocks on the freeway. I watched their arch in slow motion. I was in bumper to bumper traffic and instead hitting the brakes and causing a wreck I took a rock to the hood. I have so much random stuff happening to my car I wait until every three incidents before I file a claim.
I had sort of the same thing happen. A diesel kicked up 3 big rocks on the freeway. I watched their arch in slow motion. I was in bumper to bumper traffic and instead hitting the brakes and causing a wreck I took a rock to the hood. I have so much random stuff happening to my car I wait until every three incidents before I file a claim.
07-31-2006, 10:21 PM
#21
Team Owner
That's crazy to even think that it could take anywhere near 5min for a motor to get pressure. The oil might be thick but it still flows. It's not like you have to "fill up" the oil galleys. Hell, I primed my oil pump on the new motor with a drill in the middle of winter and had oil coming out of the pushrods in seconds. This was on a completely dry system. If you truly had no pressure, you'll get all kinds of noise from the motor. Drain your TL and let it idle for 5 minutes with no oil and videotape it.
07-31-2006, 10:37 PM
#22
Originally Posted by I hate cars
That's crazy to even think that it could take anywhere near 5min for a motor to get pressure. The oil might be thick but it still flows. It's not like you have to "fill up" the oil galleys. Hell, I primed my oil pump on the new motor with a drill in the middle of winter and had oil coming out of the pushrods in seconds. This was on a completely dry system. If you truly had no pressure, you'll get all kinds of noise from the motor. Drain your TL and let it idle for 5 minutes with no oil and videotape it.
Ambiant temperature of Minus 40 Degrees F.
Ever tried to pour Dino oil after it had soaked in that kind of weather?
07-31-2006, 11:29 PM
#23
Drifting
Originally Posted by I hate cars
Drain your TL and let it idle for 5 minutes with no oil and videotape it.
08-01-2006, 10:25 AM
#24
WDP Director of R & D
Originally Posted by frenchnew
Did I mention ambiant temperature and Dino oil?
Ambiant temperature of Minus 40 Degrees F.
Ever tried to pour Dino oil after it had soaked in that kind of weather?
Ambiant temperature of Minus 40 Degrees F.
Ever tried to pour Dino oil after it had soaked in that kind of weather?
This entire discussion has gone north...
The -40 F ambient temperature and oil viscosity issue reminds me of the 26 years I spent in MT but really, its an irrelevant comparison for ACKTL's concerns.Bottom line ACKTL, as long as you had approx 1-2 quarts of oil left in the pan when you shut the car off your engine never lost oil pressure (especially due to sounding like you were just idling on the side of the road). Did the oil continue to leak out after the engine was shut off?? By your initial post it sounds like you were pretty quick in your decision to pull over, stop, check damage and shut down the engine. So, if you remember seeing oil continue to poor out after you shut down, your engine is 100% OK.
Just glad the "beam" went for the oil pan and not the windshield....
Let us know how the repair turns out.
Smitty
08-01-2006, 02:17 PM
#25
Team Owner
Originally Posted by avs007
Actually, I saw a lab video on that once a while ago. Your engine will run perfectly fine for that amount of time with no oil in it (granted there's no load such as when idling), if it was just drained. They even showed that if you used crap like slick-50, that's when it actually caused problems, because the slick 50 clogged the pathways such that parts really did starve.
08-01-2006, 02:57 PM
#26
Drifting
Originally Posted by I hate cars
The engine could idle that long, yes. Don't think for a second it didn't do serious damage. As it applies in this case, I don't think he lost pressure so no damage done.
08-01-2006, 03:10 PM
#27
Iro Ridg .308
Originally Posted by KJSmitty
I'd be hesitant to drive the vehicle as well. Epoxy is great stuff if applied to perfectly clean and prepped surfaces. It could hold forever or decide to just fall off after getting hot etc.. Be careful there.
As for the choice of mechanic... If you like your local guy and you do trust his work/abilities, use him and save the money. I haven't looked at the difficulty of changing a 3G TL oil pan but most are straight forward procedures. Definitely ensure he also has a warranty/customer policy per se if the thing decides to leak in the first year.
Many people just asume that they get the best mechanic for the job when they take their car to the applicable dealership. No matter what your always gambling 50/50.. Sure they may have worked on that car before but they still could be a lousy mechanic. I would much rather have a mechanic that was methodical and particular about his work than someone who's uniform has an Acura badge and does the job quickly to ensure commission.
Bottom line, be sceptical of the epoxy/temp fix and drive your car accordingly. Use the mechanic that you trust or have knowledge of his work.
Good luck.
Smitty
As for the choice of mechanic... If you like your local guy and you do trust his work/abilities, use him and save the money. I haven't looked at the difficulty of changing a 3G TL oil pan but most are straight forward procedures. Definitely ensure he also has a warranty/customer policy per se if the thing decides to leak in the first year.
Many people just asume that they get the best mechanic for the job when they take their car to the applicable dealership. No matter what your always gambling 50/50.. Sure they may have worked on that car before but they still could be a lousy mechanic. I would much rather have a mechanic that was methodical and particular about his work than someone who's uniform has an Acura badge and does the job quickly to ensure commission.
Bottom line, be sceptical of the epoxy/temp fix and drive your car accordingly. Use the mechanic that you trust or have knowledge of his work.
Good luck.
Smitty
08-01-2006, 03:20 PM
#28
Team Owner
Originally Posted by avs007
Well they tore down the engine after the tests, and it didn' suffer any damage. Though the engine with Slick-50 in it on the other hand, did suffer major scoring. Granted that was a controlled environment....
08-01-2006, 04:50 PM
#29
Originally Posted by KJSmitty
I'd be hesitant to drive the vehicle as well. Epoxy is great stuff if applied to perfectly clean and prepped surfaces. It could hold forever or decide to just fall off after getting hot etc.. Be careful there.
As for the choice of mechanic... If you like your local guy and you do trust his work/abilities, use him and save the money. I haven't looked at the difficulty of changing a 3G TL oil pan but most are straight forward procedures. Definitely ensure he also has a warranty/customer policy per se if the thing decides to leak in the first year.
Many people just asume that they get the best mechanic for the job when they take their car to the applicable dealership. No matter what your always gambling 50/50.. Sure they may have worked on that car before but they still could be a lousy mechanic. I would much rather have a mechanic that was methodical and particular about his work than someone who's uniform has an Acura badge and does the job quickly to ensure commission.
Bottom line, be sceptical of the epoxy/temp fix and drive your car accordingly. Use the mechanic that you trust or have knowledge of his work.
Good luck.
Smitty
As for the choice of mechanic... If you like your local guy and you do trust his work/abilities, use him and save the money. I haven't looked at the difficulty of changing a 3G TL oil pan but most are straight forward procedures. Definitely ensure he also has a warranty/customer policy per se if the thing decides to leak in the first year.
Many people just asume that they get the best mechanic for the job when they take their car to the applicable dealership. No matter what your always gambling 50/50.. Sure they may have worked on that car before but they still could be a lousy mechanic. I would much rather have a mechanic that was methodical and particular about his work than someone who's uniform has an Acura badge and does the job quickly to ensure commission.
Bottom line, be sceptical of the epoxy/temp fix and drive your car accordingly. Use the mechanic that you trust or have knowledge of his work.
Good luck.
Smitty
I agree. I took my car tothe dealer to have the right rear strut replaced under warrenty. Then a couple months later when I was installing the A-SPEC suspension, I found a broken rear seat bolt, and the new strut was on there so tight that I could barely break it off. It was like he used an air wrench the whole time without even using torque specs. From now on I just either do the work myself or take it to the mechanic I've been going to for years.
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